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native-village-coat-particularAnd again Japan is the place from which a new entry comes with the symbolic name Gasa*, ‘gauze’ in Spanish, deliberately chosen by the designer Mie Igarashi, pointing to the close reference to one of the primary materials, with which he comes in contact since birth. A fabric that protects, cares and puts at ease, a strong indication of the operating intent of the brand: the use of natural and non-allergenic fibers, comfortable volumes, without the formal concessions of the ‘classics’ of the so-called Japanese school, colour sensitivity and full control of textile production, in an evolved balance between ethnic and high-tech demands.

gasa-knitwear-particulargasa-knitwear-particular-2gasa-cardigan-particulargasa-particularA reality that expands in collaboration with Native Village, a small brand designed by Masaaki Matsuya, where the allusions to the familiar dimension of the village and to the continuities offered by nature are by no means casual.

native-village-heavy-jacket-particularnative-village-skirt-particular-1Both brands reveal a very contemporary way of doing business where the most appropriate way to enter the market and create a whimsical dream can collaborate and be of mutual support. Also from this collaborative element emerges a particularly pronounced sensitivity, where the two different languages find important convergence points.

If Gasa* expresses with more intensity a discreet and playful approach, translated from details such as patches in the knitwear or integrations of knitwear and fabric, Native Village, in choosing a single fabric of great rarity, focuses on colour and on an overwhelming will to offer unique and almost unobtainable pieces.

In their small production, they add flavour to more mature and recognizable contexts, bringing the freshness of unique and passionate gestures.

As always, an opportunity to appreciate the discovery is to accompany you into their show-room in Paris…video-youtube-gasa-and-native-village

Find online the collection of Gasa and Native Village

 

 

 

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individual-sentiments-particularSometimes, discovering new realities, flair and intuition serve very little. In the intensity of the Paris Fashion Week, it is not really possible seeing all the showrooms that one promise to visit before departure. Finding addresses, organizing appointments, and defining a reasonable timetable, where places and times remain as near as possible, have little chances to succeed. However, in optimizing the time available, there is a golden rule: enhancing the network of trustworthy acquaintance and responding to the invitations of those who know our selective track.

This is the case of Individual Sentiments, novelties of the Japanese matrix, indicated by the beloved Bimbi, which you’ve met years ago in the Carpe Diem house. Little are the references to rely on, being the first winter collection for women, the brand, sketched by the designer Yoko Ito, was born in 2009 only with the line for men. Without any other connections, if not the trust in the author of the recommendation and the interesting work in the male expression of the brand, we went to a showroom that could not be identified otherwise: a basement, very suggestive, but, alas, not illuminated, in a somewhat secluded street within the Marais. Our footage, as usual, may be helpful in discovering the ‘feminine’ work of Individual Sentiments.

blog-individual-sentiments-youtubeA very contemporary concept of design, where the need for differentiation inherent in the need to ‘change cloths’ is entrusted to very subtle and unexpected stylistic elements. A meticulous selection of materials, strictly Japanese, of colors, being one with the fabric, a highly conceptual formal definition learned and cultivated during the important collaboration with Maurizio Altieri at the time of Carpe Diem, an extraordinary Italian avant-garde experience.

Within these guidelines, Individual Sentiments develops a language far from fashion trends, realistically timeless, where complex provocations and challenges are not lacking, where what may seem at first glance is not: knitting of certain fabrics, coats that, overturning them, become dresses or dresses that, on the contrary, look like coats. And again, textile exercises where chromatic movement is provided by the combination of straight and reversed fabrics or nuances used to accentuate luminous effects.

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A collection that, although at its beginnings, already reveals decisively a stateless and organic soul, in a loud tuning and tight dialogue with the most advanced cultural stresses of our time.

 

Find online the Individual Sentiments Collection

 

 

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Quai d’Austerlitz, at the Cité de la Mode et du Design, is the meeting of the Fall/Winter 2017-2018 presentation of the great master Yohji Yamamoto. A place unequivocally linked to the belonging sector and, maybe, an invite to dive with more care into the concepts of ‘fashion and design’. While the world is crazily running towards an irreversible loop of textile overproduction and creative inflation, the Japanese designer welcomes his public in an abstract and deserted temple, dilated by the quiet incipit of the show, articulated in the first moments only by the constant shots of the photographers.

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Space and time seem to loosen, returning to the manifestations of the human dimension, the expressive and artistic possibilities that have always distinguished the degree of civilization. Yohji is rooted in the contemporaneity, giving its grace back, is metropolitan and poetic, is a designer and a narrator of emotions embodied in dress. The rhythm and the gait are slow, the soundtrack is calm, reassuring and this mood favors a concentrated abandonment to the elaborated and evolved representation of his vision of femininity. Collected in asymmetrical folds, emphasized in the measurements and proportions of slim fit jackets along the sides and cleverly draped in a way that possible imperfections can be disguised. Fabric layers that extend in clever diagonal levels, textile accordions that take the place of the obvious and rigorous lapels. Each item denies the contemporary cultural trends, opposes ingenuity, portability, and decorative solutions of bold tailoring and compositional abilities.

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Tailor/poet of the black, Yohji does not surprise us by preferring once again the non-color, only the high formal complexity, the radiant gesture of pictorial brushes in accomplice balance with folds and cuts, to reveal a clear passion for the female universe, ideal palette of his most poetic achievements.

Following some of the moments from the show-room while making our choices

video-show-room-yohji-yamamoto-blogFind online the new Fall/Winter Collection of Yohji Yamamoto

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Autumnal fogs, suspended mists, muddy skies, burnished colors, the dried fruits of winter and the woody stumps, ardent in the domestic intimacy of the fireplace. And again the time, spent between the familiar sounds of youth, absorbed in first and instinctive drawings, and the loom, the knit, the crocheting. Collected atmospheres, cyclical and slow, placid dimensions, wondering in the feverish sound of the daily metropolitan life.

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Always attributive to the most striking seasonal atmospheres, Daniela Gregis‘s work accompanies the audience in a dive, both visual and sensible, into the prevailing tones of her Fall/Winter. It is not hard to imagine the winter territories of northern Italy in the crumpled gray of washed cotton, or in the charcoal marks of the ruffle brushstrokes of crêpe. Views of pale skies appear in the cashmere, melange or checked, and that recurring brown of local shrubs comes back in warm beige shades or more singed in the backgrounds of childish sketches.

The designer from Bergamo does not cultivate melancholic perceptions of this long season, it revives it instead, with important lengths of clothes and chromatic explosions of accessories,

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a playful and aristocratic vision of winter, of the city time, of work and of urban itineraries par excellence. Staggered textiles overwhelm the weather, the melancholy and apathy, invite to mix and recombine, to cultivate the well composed and cured hilarity of good living…

A closer look at Daniela Gregis Fall/Winter 2017-’18 fashion show directly from the Oratorio della Passione – Basilica di Sant’Ambrogio, Milano:video-youtube-daniela-gregis-blog

Find online the new Daniela Gregis Collection

 

 

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Photo by http://www.yohjiyamamoto.co.jp/ys/

The vast assortment that characterizes Y’s, the line with which Yohji Yamamoto began in 1977, is now presented in two different moments of the year and also subdivided, without any theoretical fracture, in pre-collection and collection.

We have the pleasure to show you, with our customary video, the Spring/Summer 2017 in its original setting, the Rue Saint Martin showroom in Paris, which assembles the two phases in an easily recognizable stylistic continuum for those familiar with the famous Japanese Maison.

Frequent asymmetries and overlays, hospitable volumes as complex as possible are some of the most recurring codes. The collection with which Yohji expresses his everyday life interpretation reserves, however, minor immediacy merits. The use of color, for example, even if it is a small polka dot, a melange note or apparently a print, is always accompanied by in-depth collaborations between textile exceptionalities and that reservoir of remote traditions represented by unique local dyers, the latest depository of ancient knowledge, involved not only to give the public rare aesthetic suggestions but also to keep that precious handicraft heritage alive.

In the extraordinary combination of modernity and tradition, can be admire indefinable shades of gray on flamed linen, irregular vertical shades created by the morphology of wooden boards on which tencel and cotton cloths are laid, or in the linen, for stretching the chromatic blends that will then be absorbed and altered by the wood base. Or again in the casual paths of the salt lying on the rayon, powered by manual punctures to favor its absorption, and then distributed not by methodical human action but by the whimsical wind direction in a natural and abstract design reflected by shadows and cosmic light spots.

It is impossible to narrate all the knowledge accumulated in a line, Y’s, which, with grace and obstinacy, in the formal balances of each chapter, in the wisdom of fit, insists on respecting the contexts, seasons and complexity of contemporary living.

Find online all collections of Y’s Yohji Yamamoto

 

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