IVO MILAN – Radical Fashion Blog

Tag "Issey Miyake"

At the acme of summer, the first winter arrivals distract us from the high temperatures and from the phlegmatic calm of the semi-deserted cities.

In the store we can taste the new season that day by day takes shape around the choices made six months ago, during the Milan and Paris orders.

There’s no need to be distracted though, because the news will be really exciting: authors like Marc Le BihanRenli Su and many other surprises, unprecedented poetics that will integrate the already available assortment, projecting us onto truly prolific, cultured and ingenious global modernity.

While waiting a quick look at the new arrivals, from Daniela Gregis to Boboutic, the 132. 5 by Issey Miyake, the nuno felt of Cri-S and the Trippen shoes…

Read More

Issey Miyake Inc.

Among the uninitiated, even today the name of the most futuristic Maison of the prêt-à-porter is associated with a fragrance, Eau d’Issey.

An unexplained and paradoxical binomial if we enter in the huge and hyper-technological textile production which, for nearly half a century, has identified the Issey Miyake brand. Not only the company is the owner of several other brands, including Pleats Please, BaoBao, Cauliflower, 1 3 2.5, etc., but mostly remains in the spotlight of the largest contemporary art museums and in many of the most prestigious magazines and publications of art, architecture and design.

Issey Miyake Cartier Fondation


The reasons for such authoritative and frequent awards are undoubtedly in the extension of the boundaries that normally establishes the matter of the work, the fabric, turning it into plastic fiber par excellence, on which to intervene with all the complexity and ideational freedom of creating, responding also to very simple starting questions: agility of movement, comfort and of course, aesthetics.

If the expression that best frames the Miyake Design Studio work, a laboratory that concentrates engineering and informatics geniality, is the plissé, today you must dig into its various realizations, in its constant connection between form and color. On one side we have the ‘steam-stretch’ method that, simplifying, uses steam heat to emphasis the fold, often recognizable by spiral swirls that cover the garment, whether it is a dress, jacket or shirt. On the other hand, we have the last and most complex ‘baked stretch’ method, where the object of formal definition of the finished object occurs through an ingenious combination of pigments laid on the polyester, entering then in special ovens, following the three-dimensional development of the final article through an yeasting phenomenon.

The synthesis of these experiments can seem easy to understand if one only ignores that, in both cases, the teams work on garments that have already been manufactured and which will be in their final and definitive shape after undergoing the textile treatment.

The idea that the clothing can become artistic occasions to all intents and purposes and its demonstration in the abstractions concretized in Issey Miyake products, explain the interest of the specialized press towards the Maison, the honor of being exhibited in major contemporary art galleries and, probably, the opposite unpreparedness of the general public, alien to all that the media does not strongly advertise to make it simple and recognizable.

Issey Miyake Exhibition at the National Art Center in Tokyo

The images below show examples of both steam stretch and baked stretch methods. Both, having as basic material the polyester, are suitable to be worn both in winter and in summer, in the first case by layering, in the second, of course, maintaining the starting nudity.

But you can observe other poetic manifestations of the Maison in the meshes, with the cosmos pattern hand-dyed and then transferred to the silk-effect plissé, or in the extraordinary cotton and polyester fresco overcoat, where the smooth canvas meets in continuity the elastic folds of the pleated sides, that have the purpose of giving greater movement of the torso and arms.

The weak differentiation between autumn/winter and spring/summer is a further demonstration of the extreme functionality and usability of this clothing, thought-out to solve the most common problems: being on the road, in different weather conditions; the ease in cleaning; the impossibility of ironing; the long use in one day, punctuated from the daily routine in the morning to the evening times of greater social exchange.

Issey Miyake Fall-Winter Collection 2016-17

Issey Miyake Fall-Winter Collection 2016-17

Issey Miyake Fall-Winter Collection 2016-17

Issey Miyake Fall-Winter Collection 2016-17

Issey Miyake Fall/Winter Collection 2016-17

Issey Miyake Fall-Winter Collection 2016-17


Find online the Issey Miyake Collection on our website:


Read More

Paris, Saturday 5th March 2016, Rue Royal, boutique Issey Miyake.

Reportage Issey Miyake

We couldn’t miss the presentation night of the new book dedicated to the work of Issey Miyake.

Reportage Parigi Issey Miyake

An occasion to visit the beautiful Paris boutique, say hi to the many colleagues present there and of course browsing through the suggestive pictures of the book for the very first time.

Reportage da Parigi Issey Miyake

Vibrant and overwhelming the emotion in assisting a very important acknowledgement for the creative developments of one of the most important contemporary designer and an unmissable chance to bring our most sincere, unrelenting congratulations to the Maison current artistic director, the young Yoshiyuki Miyamae.

Ivo Milan - Issey MiyakeIVO MILAN with Yoshiyuki Miyamae and TESSABIT di Como.

Issey Miyake Shop OnlineShop Online Issey MiyakeIssey Miyake Online

Issey Miyake Shop Online Ivo Milan

Shop Online

More info on Issey Miyake.

Read More

book issey miyake taschen

In the middle of the Paris Fashion Week for the next Autumn/Winter, it should be reported an other very important acknowledgement to the designer who most was able to connect clothing to concepts as innovation, experimentation and research. On Saturday 5th March, at Issey Miyake boutique of Rue Royale in Paris, it will be launched an unpublished monograph dedicated by the Taschen publishing house to the Japanese master and to his prolific and hyper-technologic  Design Miyake Studio, established in the 1970.

A book that, not by chance, is launched almost simultaneously with the exhibition that will be opened on the 16th of March at the National Art Center of Tokyo, completely installed to celebrate the professional history and the cultural contributions introduced by the researches carried out during these years by the researchers team involved in Issey Miyake’s ambitious creative project.

Issey Miyake Taschen Book

book issey miyake taschen

book issue miyake taschen

book issue miyake taschen

book issue miyake taschen

book issue miyake taschenA long, extensive tale of the different steps that have characterised of the well-known polyester pleating, today present in the most prestigious shops in the world with the bran new version called “Baked Stretch”.

baked stretch advertisment

The chromatic and formal possibilities opened by this innovative material manufacturing, so called ‘baked’ as the pleats take their aspects after a heath exposition process very similar to the one of the bread rising, reveal the maturity and the extreme autonomy gained by the excellent collaborators chosen by Issey Miyake, among them it’s not possible to not mention the Maison creative director, the young Yoshiyuki Miyamae.

Baked stretch vimeo

Click here to watch the video.

For those who would not have the chance to participate to the Paris event, nor to go directly to Tokyo, they can anyway lost themselves in the different pages describing the vast and futuristic repertoire of the Japanese designer. In fact the book is already available on the Taschen website and in the next months it would be distributed by the libraries and by the authorized boutiques.

Issey Miyake dress 1.325 shrag SS16

Issey Miyake Top Skirt SS16

Issey Miyake Reversible Top Skirt SS16Reversible top and skirt .

Issey Miyake Top Trousers SS16

Issey Miyake Dress SS16

Issey Miyake Reversible Dress SS16

Reversible dress.



Read More

1 3 2 5, Issey, Miyake, SS16

Top 132 5. Issey Miyake spring/summer 2016.

Despite the slow, endless moving forward of the winter, in the shop the season sales introduce and overlap the joyful arrival of the next Spring/Summer. An impressive Trippen delivery makes us guess the incoming chromatic presences and, for the first time in Europe, the 132 5. Issey Miyake origami lines, anticipates the most clever developments of the extraordinary Japanese Maison!

Trippen, Shoes, SS16

Trippen, Shoes, SS16

Trippen shoes spring/summer 2016 lined up ready to be photigraphed.

1 3 2 5, Issey, Miyake, SS16

1 3 2 5, Issey, Miyake, SS16

1 3 2 5, Issey, Miyake, SS16

1 3 2 5, Issey, Miyake, SS16

1 3 2 5, Issey, Miyake, SS16

Top 132 5. Issey Miyake spring/summer 2016.

1 One-dimensional

3 Three-dimensional

2 Shape

5 Body

But also Daniela Gregis, Comme des Garçons, Junya Watanabe are waiting for their turn of being shot and added to our online catalogue…

Junya, Watanabe, SS16

Junya, Watanabe, SS16

Junya Watanabe spring/summer 2016

Daniela, Gregis, Packaging, SS16

Daniela, Gregis, Packaging, SS16The well-curated Daniela Gregis packaging.

Daniela, Gregis, Vichy, Bag, SS16

Hand-woven Daniela Gregis bag in wicker and vichy spring/summer 2016.

Comme, des, Garcons, Daniela, Gregis, Junya, Watanabe, Issey, Miyake, SS16

Comme, des, Garcons, Daniela, Gregis, Junya, Watanabe, Issey, Miyake, SS16

Comme, des, Garcons, Daniela, Gregis, Junya, Watanabe, SS16

The first arrivals of Comme des Garçons, Daniela Gregis, Junya Watanabe and 1 3 2 5.Issey Miyake waiting to be photographed  for our online catalogue.

And after these fleeting, as confused, new arrivals previews, the rigid temperatures allow us to still dwell upon the many winter possibilities… Outfits provided by the knowledge of months of experimentations, revelations and fittings with the shop customers. Often unique pieces, of impossible to find design, being timeless they are combinable with garments from the past winters, a strategic and gratifying finishing to our refined wardrobes.

Vivienne, Westwood, Anglomania, Red, Label, outfit, AW15, Sale

Vivienne, Westwood, Anglomania, Red, Label, outfit, AW15, Sale

Vivienne Westwood Red Label long and heavy sweater in malfilè wool, cotton, polyamide and acrylic with big contrasting triangles, wide crew-neck.

Vivienne Westwood Anglomania short pants-style miniskirt in polyester and elastane canvas with  a worn-out velvet effect printing, inner buttons closure, outer buttons diagonal closure, 2 side pockets, central back slit.

Vivienne Westwood Anglomania viscose and spandex leggings with Union Jack printing.

Vivienne Westwood Mantero big scarf in acrylic and wool big thread loom weft with squares pattern, fringes along the edges, l 200 cm x h 55 cm.

Trippen ankle boot in soft suede cowhide leather slightly creased on the instep, side zip closure, new ‘spot’ sole with two rubber blocks and non-slip base made on iron stamp.

Y's, Yohji, Yamamoto, Outfit, AW15, Sale

Y’s Yohji Yamamoto wide coat in loom worked wollen multicolour cloth, single-breasted, half-closed crew-neck, frayed edges, two diagonal vertical pockets, press buttons closure.

Y’s Yohji Yamamoto long, wide and asymmetric sweater in knitted wool with a light bouclé effect, turtle-neck with V opening on the front, horizontal ribbing on the breast and on the shoulder, diagonal point at the bottom, side stitching, one side slit, asymmetric line.

Y's, Yohji, Yamamoto, Outfit, AW15, Sale

Y’s Yohji Yamamoto spencer jacket in wool gabardine with cuff and hem bands, single-breasted with lapels, two vertical welt pockets.

Y’s Yohji Yamamoto wide, large and asymmetric divided skirt in light pale multicolour wool canvas, with brace, one vertical welt pockets, zip and drawstring side closure.

Yohji Yamamoto wide stole in knitted wool and nylon worked with stitched ribbed fringes, fringes at the far ends, l 216 cm x h 70 cm.

Trippen ankle-boot in cowhide leather with new ‘spot’ sole with two rubber blocks and non-slipper base made on iron stamps, vertical elastic bands from the sole to the ankle.



Yohji Yamamoto short cardigan in light knitted wool, polyamide and viscose with abstract-geometrical texture, zip closure, drop-shaped neck, wider on the side, hem band, wide kimono sleeve.

Yohji Yamamoto short jersey and gabardine wool dress, tight-fitting t-shirt bodice with wide draped fabric sewn at the neck and adjustable, long sleeve.

Yohji Yamamoto classic twill trousers printed with artist Yasuto Sasada drawings, tight at the bottom, 2 front diagonal pockets and 2 welt pockets with small button on the back, zip and button closure, belt loops and inserted strap with buckle, lined.

Trippen ankle boot in soft suede cowhide leather slightly creased on the instep, side zip closure, new ‘spot’ sole with two rubber blocks and non-slip base made on iron stamp.

Rick, Owens, Sculpture, Padded, Coat, AW15, Sale

Rick Owens sculpture padded jacket longer on the sides in polyamide with an horizontal pleating processing, geometrical stitching on the front, single-breasted with wide triangular lapels, three snaps buttons closure.

Issey Miyake wool and polyurethane crêpe stretch trousers with contrasting colour belt, two diagonal pockets, two welt pockets on the back, diagonal panel stitched on the front, two buttons and zip side closure, soft line.

Trippen ankle-boot in washed and treated cowhide leather with three blocks heel, side zip closure, wide sole, instep upper part higher on the back.

Junya, Watanabe, Knitwear, AW15, Sale

Junya Watanabe mohair sweater with ribbed pyramid origami in wool and polyester along the sleeves and the shoulders, crew-neck, band on the cuffs, neck and at the bottom.

Junya Watanabe knee-length wide full skirt with rounded large pleats in wool flannel, side closure with zip and hook.

Issey, Miyake, Cortella, Shu, Moriyama, AW15, Sale

Issey, Miyake, Cortella, Shu, Moriyiama, AW15, Sale

Shu Moriyama short and wide jacket in embossed wool canvas with patterns in two different colours, crew-neck, single-breasted with press buttons.

Andrea Cortella rew-neck sweater in stitched Cashwool extra fine Merino wool with pyramid shaped points on the front, knitted band at the bottom, on the cuffs and on the neck, straight line.

Issey Miyake skirt in steam stretch pleated bicolour polyester and polyurethane with a narrow crystal effect, elastic band at the belt, wide and flared line, two welt pockets, reversible and wearable as a cape.

Classic Trippen’ ankle boot in oiled suede cowhide leather with strings and small hooks, removable cork insole, rubber sole.

Issey, Miyake, AW15, Sale

Issey Miyake pleated garments.

Junya, Watanabe, Comme, des, Garçons, AW15, Sale

Junya Watanabe and Comme des Garçons garments.

Gudrun, and, Gudrun, Knitwear, AW15, Sale

Gudrun & Gudrun knitwear.

Gudrun, and Gudrun, Yohji, Yamamoto, Vivienne, Westwood, Outfit, AW15, Sale

Gudrun, and Gudrun, Yohji, Yamamoto, Vivienne, Westwood, Outfit, AW15, Sale

Gudrun & Gudrun open jacket style cardigan in heavy knitted alpaca, dropped stitching working on the shoulder and along the sleeve.

Y’s Yohji Yamamoto long divided skirt in cotton canvas with vertical stitched pleats, 2 diagonal side welt pockets, zip and button closure.

Vivienne Westwood Mantero big scarf in acrylic and wool big thread loom weft with squares pattern, fringes along the edges, l 200 cm x h 55 cm.

Trippen ankle boot in drummed cowhide leather and traditional Japanese sole, parallel stratifications effect on the upper instep, zip closure, traditional rubber Japanese sole.

Forme, D'Expression, Boboutic, AW15, Sale

Forme D’Expression wide pea coat in damask wool cloth with checks, shawl neck, shorter on the back, points on the front, pointed bottom, closure with button on the neck or on the side.

Boboutic short sweater in knitted extra fine wool, polyamide and yak, with irregular weft thread in a different colour at the bottom and on the sleeves, crew-neck with band, band on the cuffs and at the hem, soft line.

Forme D’Expression wool jersey trousers with waistband and knee-length doubled leg, soft line, two side welt pockets and one patch pocket on the back.

Forme D’Expression high closed neck warmer in doubled knitted soft wool and cashmere in two different colours inside-outside, reversible.

Kate Sheridan rectangular backpack in waterproof British Millerain with leather adjustable shoulder straps, flap and adjustable leather ribbon closure, internal open pockets and internal zip pocket, h 43 cm x l 38 cm.

Daniela, Gregis, Outfit, AW15, Sale

Daniela Gregis egg-shaped handmade sweater in straight stitched mohair and silk, wide crew-neck, long sleeve, neck, hem and cuffs with ribbed edge.

Daniela Gregis calf-length skirt in double wool crêpe with dark ‘storm’ printing, cut out hem, waistband at the belt, curled at the waist.

Trippen ankle boot in treated and washed cowhide leather, winglet with a pleat effect on the side, turn-up at the ankle, inner zip closure, two shell rubber sole.

Reinhard, Plank, Hat, AW15

Reinhard Plank medium-brimmed bowler hat in waxed and varnished lapin felt with a ‘rock’ effect.

Photography by Sari Milan.





Read More