IVO MILAN – Radical Fashion Blog

Tag "Yohji Yamamoto"

Summer Sale S/S 2016 Ivo Milan

With summer sales still pacing ahead and the first arrivals of the Fall/Winter 2016-2017, a fresh look to our current catalogue is an opportunity to bring summer back into the limelight. Heatwaves and imminent holidays demand light weights and outfits.

Together with Jennicka, Sari’s shots around our shop in Padova will take you on a swift tour of our Summer deals…


Y's Yohji Yamamoto trousers dress 2016

Y’s Yohji Yamamoto two pieces wide dress: wide t-shirt in cotton jersey, short sleeve, wide V neck, small buttons at the bottom to be closed in holes of the trousers, short sarouel in polyester and polyurethane Prince of Wales, with belt and detachable belt pouch, two welt vertical side pockets, t-shirt and trousers are detachable

Sha double sinamay hat with wider brim at sides and smaller at rear, small cotton ribbon trim at the edge

Trippen (SPIDER) flat shoe in soft cowhide leather with laces and side stripes, open on upper part, laces closure, leather stripes coming out from the sides suggesting a ‘spider’ design, two separated shells rubber sole


Junya Watanabe dress ss 2016

Junya Watanabe calf-length dress in polyester georgette with a zebra-stripes print, flared sleeve, wide rounded neck with a shawl effect on a second dress, back central slit, straight line

Comme des Garçons-Comme des Garçons outfit S/S 2016

Comme des Garçons-Comme des Garçons wide shirt in cotton poplin, cut with stitching and pleating ‘impero’ style, rounded neck, strings closure on the front, short sleeve, hip-length, wearable also as an open jacket

Comme des Garçons-Comme des Garçons long and wide pleated skirt in washed linen canvas and printed with bi-colour polka-dots, elastic and waist band at the belt, side vertical welt pockets


Un-Namable over-fitting t-shirt in iridescent cotton jersey, wide crew-neck, circle line, flared asymmetric bat sleeve with raw cut edges, central vertical stitching on the front and the back

Un-Namable soft trousers in cotton crêpe with narrow vertical pleats, diagonal small panel on the front, elastic at the belt, a side diagonal small pocket

Daniela Gregis big shopper bag in hand-knitted palm leaves wrapped in a cotton vichy canvas with knots going through four holes in the upper part becoming a double handle, the piece of cloth could be worn as a shawl, h cm 30 x l cm 32 x d cm 20

Trippen (IBIZA) flip flop sandal in soft elk leather and cowhide leather parts in contrasting colours, wide and asymmetric band wrapping a foot side, Velcro closure on the front, open on the back, classic rubber rounded sole


Un-Namable S/S 2016 dress

Un-namable calf-length doubled dress in treated cotton muslin and with a cloud effect printing, wide crew-neck, sleeveless, diagonal stitching at the waist, wide bottom with side stitching and selvage at the hem, raw cut edges, wide and asymmetric line

Yesey hat straw

Trippen (HOREN) flip flop sandal in soft cowhide leather along the edges with open-toe, separated flip flop ring, shoe laces twist along the foot upper part to be tied around the ankle, classic rounded rubber sole


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Y's Yohji Yamamoto Spring/Summer 2016

Maybe not everyone knows that before coming out with the line that now bears his full name, Yohji Yamamoto made his debut in 1972 with the Y’s. A possessive case strongly indicative of the paternity and affection feelings of the well-known Japanese designer towards his work and his young performance.

Y’s, in the true sense of ‘it belongs to Yohji’, could not then be considered today a second line, but instead an everyday alternative of the bolder stylistic codes reserved to the runway collections.

It is not a rare event that, in the wide Paris showroom in Rue Saint Martin, we find us facing the spoiler of choice between a fèmme piece or its Y’s similar, reflecting from time to time if privilege a more abstract and mature feminine interpretation or a more immature and practical one.

The final decision is usually commit to the more precise correspondence between shape, colour and composition, with the world evoked by the garment in question.

Y's Yohji Yamamoto Spring/Summer 2016 show-room

In the Y’s too, Yohji doesn’t scrimp on the involvement of distant artisans, last repositories of the rich Japanese textile heritage, and with extraordinary confidence and discretion leads these unmissable knowledges in refining the everyday life. Linen and cotton patchworks, gussets kept together by laborious stitchings, polka-dots spread on complex wideness, doubled fabrics, barely sketched and overlapped pleats, ad hoc placed darts, precise distribution of the empties and the voids, in a continuos, careful game around the details, the small particular, in order to confuse the position of dresses, jackets and knitwear, in two opposing worlds: one classic and conventional and the other more unpredictable and personal.

The effect is a displacement typical of Yohji Yamamoto’s trait, always in conscious and affected balance between the austerity and the unconventional.

Y's Yohji Yamamoto dress Spring/Summer 2016

Y's Yohji Yamamoto Spring/Summer 2016 dress detail

Y's Yohji Yamamoto Spring/Summer 2016 jeans and pois shirt

Y's Yohji Yamamoto Spring/Summer 2016 shirt pois

Y's Yohji Yamamoto Spring/Summer 2016 gilet

Y's Yohji Yamamoto Spring/Summer 2016 jumpsuit and back-pack

Y's Yohji Yamamoto Spring/Summer 2016 pants-dress

Y's Yohji Yamamoto Spring/Summer 2016 trousers

Y's Yohji Yamamoto Spring/Summer 2016 trousers detail

Y's Yohji Yamamoto Spring/Summer 2016 jacket

Y's Yohji Yamamoto Spring/Summer 2016 jacket detail


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Looking closely at a garment of the the so-called Japanese school great master Yohji Yamamoto is not only a rare occasion, but the audience reaction is always the same too: silence and an expression that instantly changes the face, as if to say very simply: ‘Here we are behind’. Behind fashion, behind the seasonal trends, behind what one could usually see, behind the widespread boredom of making clothes with approximation.

In increasingly critical times for the clothing field, where more and more less space is left to the know-how, where the production rhythms are more and more compromised by the minimizing of the costs and especially by the increasing of the manufacturing companies profit margins, having the chance to intercept a Yohji Yamamoto’s work is like finding relief in the middle of the most hazardous desert. Because the high quality tailoring, applied to accessible models and with an eloquent design, could excite on the same level of every other noble artistic expression. And Yohji, more than ever, is a skilled weavers of ancient knowledges and contemporary solicitations, gained in metropolitan contexts with an high concentration of relationships, contaminations and syncretism.

For the Spring/Summer 2016 we have a personal interpretation of an Enlightenment atmospheres, in the bustiers composed by articulated asymmetries on the wider volumes of skirt and trousers, emphasized by the sumptuous scenario of the Hotel de Ville in Paris, selected for the runway show.

But the historical citation mixes and confuses itself with more contemporary and urban silhouette, evoked with determination by the lengths and the details of the overcoats, in the calculated disorder of certain dresses and tops



and especially in the explicit collaboration with the very young painter Yuuka Asakura (discover her instagram and twitter profiles) called to paint her abstract works on the already very precious Japanese cottons.



The ubiquitous black colour gets dirty with pictorial signs with a charming chromatic involvement, inviting the audience to observe with calm and attention, to stop by, discovering also the less showy gestures in fibres that reveal themselves in their curate and surprising three-dimensionality.

In opposition to the more pressing and emerging requests of time and space compression, Yohji Yamamoto with the most discreet savoir faire, remembers us that the beauty could be still part of our stories, we just need to never stop seeking it.


The Spring/Summer Yohji Yamamoto collection is on www.ivomilan.com


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1 3 2 5, Issey, Miyake, SS16

Top 132 5. Issey Miyake spring/summer 2016.

Despite the slow, endless moving forward of the winter, in the shop the season sales introduce and overlap the joyful arrival of the next Spring/Summer. An impressive Trippen delivery makes us guess the incoming chromatic presences and, for the first time in Europe, the 132 5. Issey Miyake origami lines, anticipates the most clever developments of the extraordinary Japanese Maison!

Trippen, Shoes, SS16

Trippen, Shoes, SS16

Trippen shoes spring/summer 2016 lined up ready to be photigraphed.

1 3 2 5, Issey, Miyake, SS16

1 3 2 5, Issey, Miyake, SS16

1 3 2 5, Issey, Miyake, SS16

1 3 2 5, Issey, Miyake, SS16

1 3 2 5, Issey, Miyake, SS16

Top 132 5. Issey Miyake spring/summer 2016.

1 One-dimensional

3 Three-dimensional

2 Shape

5 Body

But also Daniela Gregis, Comme des Garçons, Junya Watanabe are waiting for their turn of being shot and added to our online catalogue…

Junya, Watanabe, SS16

Junya, Watanabe, SS16

Junya Watanabe spring/summer 2016

Daniela, Gregis, Packaging, SS16

Daniela, Gregis, Packaging, SS16The well-curated Daniela Gregis packaging.

Daniela, Gregis, Vichy, Bag, SS16

Hand-woven Daniela Gregis bag in wicker and vichy spring/summer 2016.

Comme, des, Garcons, Daniela, Gregis, Junya, Watanabe, Issey, Miyake, SS16

Comme, des, Garcons, Daniela, Gregis, Junya, Watanabe, Issey, Miyake, SS16

Comme, des, Garcons, Daniela, Gregis, Junya, Watanabe, SS16

The first arrivals of Comme des Garçons, Daniela Gregis, Junya Watanabe and 1 3 2 5.Issey Miyake waiting to be photographed  for our online catalogue.

And after these fleeting, as confused, new arrivals previews, the rigid temperatures allow us to still dwell upon the many winter possibilities… Outfits provided by the knowledge of months of experimentations, revelations and fittings with the shop customers. Often unique pieces, of impossible to find design, being timeless they are combinable with garments from the past winters, a strategic and gratifying finishing to our refined wardrobes.

Vivienne, Westwood, Anglomania, Red, Label, outfit, AW15, Sale

Vivienne, Westwood, Anglomania, Red, Label, outfit, AW15, Sale

Vivienne Westwood Red Label long and heavy sweater in malfilè wool, cotton, polyamide and acrylic with big contrasting triangles, wide crew-neck.

Vivienne Westwood Anglomania short pants-style miniskirt in polyester and elastane canvas with  a worn-out velvet effect printing, inner buttons closure, outer buttons diagonal closure, 2 side pockets, central back slit.

Vivienne Westwood Anglomania viscose and spandex leggings with Union Jack printing.

Vivienne Westwood Mantero big scarf in acrylic and wool big thread loom weft with squares pattern, fringes along the edges, l 200 cm x h 55 cm.

Trippen ankle boot in soft suede cowhide leather slightly creased on the instep, side zip closure, new ‘spot’ sole with two rubber blocks and non-slip base made on iron stamp.

Y's, Yohji, Yamamoto, Outfit, AW15, Sale

Y’s Yohji Yamamoto wide coat in loom worked wollen multicolour cloth, single-breasted, half-closed crew-neck, frayed edges, two diagonal vertical pockets, press buttons closure.

Y’s Yohji Yamamoto long, wide and asymmetric sweater in knitted wool with a light bouclé effect, turtle-neck with V opening on the front, horizontal ribbing on the breast and on the shoulder, diagonal point at the bottom, side stitching, one side slit, asymmetric line.

Y's, Yohji, Yamamoto, Outfit, AW15, Sale

Y’s Yohji Yamamoto spencer jacket in wool gabardine with cuff and hem bands, single-breasted with lapels, two vertical welt pockets.

Y’s Yohji Yamamoto wide, large and asymmetric divided skirt in light pale multicolour wool canvas, with brace, one vertical welt pockets, zip and drawstring side closure.

Yohji Yamamoto wide stole in knitted wool and nylon worked with stitched ribbed fringes, fringes at the far ends, l 216 cm x h 70 cm.

Trippen ankle-boot in cowhide leather with new ‘spot’ sole with two rubber blocks and non-slipper base made on iron stamps, vertical elastic bands from the sole to the ankle.



Yohji Yamamoto short cardigan in light knitted wool, polyamide and viscose with abstract-geometrical texture, zip closure, drop-shaped neck, wider on the side, hem band, wide kimono sleeve.

Yohji Yamamoto short jersey and gabardine wool dress, tight-fitting t-shirt bodice with wide draped fabric sewn at the neck and adjustable, long sleeve.

Yohji Yamamoto classic twill trousers printed with artist Yasuto Sasada drawings, tight at the bottom, 2 front diagonal pockets and 2 welt pockets with small button on the back, zip and button closure, belt loops and inserted strap with buckle, lined.

Trippen ankle boot in soft suede cowhide leather slightly creased on the instep, side zip closure, new ‘spot’ sole with two rubber blocks and non-slip base made on iron stamp.

Rick, Owens, Sculpture, Padded, Coat, AW15, Sale

Rick Owens sculpture padded jacket longer on the sides in polyamide with an horizontal pleating processing, geometrical stitching on the front, single-breasted with wide triangular lapels, three snaps buttons closure.

Issey Miyake wool and polyurethane crêpe stretch trousers with contrasting colour belt, two diagonal pockets, two welt pockets on the back, diagonal panel stitched on the front, two buttons and zip side closure, soft line.

Trippen ankle-boot in washed and treated cowhide leather with three blocks heel, side zip closure, wide sole, instep upper part higher on the back.

Junya, Watanabe, Knitwear, AW15, Sale

Junya Watanabe mohair sweater with ribbed pyramid origami in wool and polyester along the sleeves and the shoulders, crew-neck, band on the cuffs, neck and at the bottom.

Junya Watanabe knee-length wide full skirt with rounded large pleats in wool flannel, side closure with zip and hook.

Issey, Miyake, Cortella, Shu, Moriyama, AW15, Sale

Issey, Miyake, Cortella, Shu, Moriyiama, AW15, Sale

Shu Moriyama short and wide jacket in embossed wool canvas with patterns in two different colours, crew-neck, single-breasted with press buttons.

Andrea Cortella rew-neck sweater in stitched Cashwool extra fine Merino wool with pyramid shaped points on the front, knitted band at the bottom, on the cuffs and on the neck, straight line.

Issey Miyake skirt in steam stretch pleated bicolour polyester and polyurethane with a narrow crystal effect, elastic band at the belt, wide and flared line, two welt pockets, reversible and wearable as a cape.

Classic Trippen’ ankle boot in oiled suede cowhide leather with strings and small hooks, removable cork insole, rubber sole.

Issey, Miyake, AW15, Sale

Issey Miyake pleated garments.

Junya, Watanabe, Comme, des, Garçons, AW15, Sale

Junya Watanabe and Comme des Garçons garments.

Gudrun, and, Gudrun, Knitwear, AW15, Sale

Gudrun & Gudrun knitwear.

Gudrun, and Gudrun, Yohji, Yamamoto, Vivienne, Westwood, Outfit, AW15, Sale

Gudrun, and Gudrun, Yohji, Yamamoto, Vivienne, Westwood, Outfit, AW15, Sale

Gudrun & Gudrun open jacket style cardigan in heavy knitted alpaca, dropped stitching working on the shoulder and along the sleeve.

Y’s Yohji Yamamoto long divided skirt in cotton canvas with vertical stitched pleats, 2 diagonal side welt pockets, zip and button closure.

Vivienne Westwood Mantero big scarf in acrylic and wool big thread loom weft with squares pattern, fringes along the edges, l 200 cm x h 55 cm.

Trippen ankle boot in drummed cowhide leather and traditional Japanese sole, parallel stratifications effect on the upper instep, zip closure, traditional rubber Japanese sole.

Forme, D'Expression, Boboutic, AW15, Sale

Forme D’Expression wide pea coat in damask wool cloth with checks, shawl neck, shorter on the back, points on the front, pointed bottom, closure with button on the neck or on the side.

Boboutic short sweater in knitted extra fine wool, polyamide and yak, with irregular weft thread in a different colour at the bottom and on the sleeves, crew-neck with band, band on the cuffs and at the hem, soft line.

Forme D’Expression wool jersey trousers with waistband and knee-length doubled leg, soft line, two side welt pockets and one patch pocket on the back.

Forme D’Expression high closed neck warmer in doubled knitted soft wool and cashmere in two different colours inside-outside, reversible.

Kate Sheridan rectangular backpack in waterproof British Millerain with leather adjustable shoulder straps, flap and adjustable leather ribbon closure, internal open pockets and internal zip pocket, h 43 cm x l 38 cm.

Daniela, Gregis, Outfit, AW15, Sale

Daniela Gregis egg-shaped handmade sweater in straight stitched mohair and silk, wide crew-neck, long sleeve, neck, hem and cuffs with ribbed edge.

Daniela Gregis calf-length skirt in double wool crêpe with dark ‘storm’ printing, cut out hem, waistband at the belt, curled at the waist.

Trippen ankle boot in treated and washed cowhide leather, winglet with a pleat effect on the side, turn-up at the ankle, inner zip closure, two shell rubber sole.

Reinhard, Plank, Hat, AW15

Reinhard Plank medium-brimmed bowler hat in waxed and varnished lapin felt with a ‘rock’ effect.

Photography by Sari Milan.





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Ivo, Milan, Boutique, Padova

It has been a while since we not coming back to the space/workshop that contains every our activity: online catalogue composition, shop windows, communications, presentations and everything in general gives life to the shop. In fact everything takes place inside the boutique in Via Santa Lucia, in Padua city centre. Here the collections selected during the buying campaign find their placement, they are interpreted and put together in combinations possible only in context where different brands live together, as happens in our space. For this reason it seems to us interesting sharing fresh seasonal glimpses that is not possible to imagine just watching the pictures on the website.

Talking about this…any suggestion to improve our job? The pictures with a darker background, lights and shades extending the garments movement, slow down the catalogue exploration or instead allow to understand with more likelihood the wearability of jackets, dresses, sweaters, etc?…

Y's. Yohji, Yamamoto, Final, Home, SS15

Details from the main shop window:

Y’s Yohji Yamamoto embroidered satin evening dress with small squares in polyester and rayon opened on the back, – strapless, inner bodice, central zip back closure, one high side buttons, two side slits.

Classic unisex ‘Final Home’ raincoat in nylon canvas, neck with zip and hood, vertical zips for the padded ‘cushions’ (it becomes a winter down jacket) on the front, on the back and along the arms, zip closure with double slide and press studs.

Trippen boot in cowhide leather and rubber sole, rounded tip, upper part with half-closed stripes on the front, zip closure on the ankle back.

Bao, Bao, issey, Miyake, SS15

Trippen, SS15

Small shop windows:

Shopper Bao Bao Issey Miyake composta di placchette triangolari di pvc opaco replicate con calcoli origami su base in rete e tela di poliestere, doppi manici regolabili, una grande tasca interna con zip, l 34 cm x h 34 cm;

Trippen boot in cowhide leather and rubber sole, rounded tip, upper part with half-closed stripes on the front, zip closure on the ankle back.

Vivienne, Westwood, Red, Label, SS15

Vertical shop window:

Vivienne Westwood Red Label two pieces dress in linen cotton canvas with diagonal checks pattern: ¾ sleeve top, curled rounded neck with drawstring, closure with fabric-covered small buttons; flared skirt, darts on the back at the hip, zip and button side closure.

Comme, Des, Garcons, Final, Home, SS15

Final Home polyester net blouson with zip, neck with hood, two vertical small pocket with zip, zip closure, zips along the arms and the shoulder transforming the blouson in a cape when open.

Calf-length Comme des Garçons quilted skirt in printed polyester with ‘red passion’ spots and cotton lining, curled at the waist, waist and elastic band at the belt, wide line.

Pleats, Please, Issey, Miyake, SS15

Issey, Miyake, Pleats, Please, Trippen, SS15

Pleats Please Issey Miyake polyester vertical pleating dress doubled along the hips with triangular inlays in contrasting colour, sleeveless, V neck, flared line.

Pleats Please Issey Miyake polyester vertical pleating short jacket, straight neck, open on the front, no buttons, ¾ bat sleeve, wearable upside/down.

Trippen flat shoe in flatted cowhide leather, essential line with inner edge higher on a side, two separated rubber shells sole.

Comme, Des, Garcons, SS15

Comme des Garçions open-work waistcoat top in glossy polyurethane on the outside and polyester on the inside, crew-neck, zip side closure, straight fit, raw cut edging.

Comme, des, Garçons, SS15

Comme des Garçons calf-length skirt with a cotton base with ‘red passion’ printed spots doubled with printed tulle with the same pattern, slightly curled, zip closure, wide line.

Yohji, Yamamoto, Jumpsuit, SS15

Yohji Yamamoto wide trousers jumpsuit in wool gabardine with rhinestone and silk braces with metallic stitched sequins, central zip closure on the front, 2 vertical welt pockets on the breast, 2 on the side and 2 on the back with flaps, side vertical buttons.

Haat, SS15, Dress

HaaT calf-length dress in high twist squared linen, boat-neck, half sleeve, panel to be buttoned on the side with buttons, back central zip, asymmetric.

Daniela, Gregis, fabric, SS15

Daniela, Gregis, Dress, SS15

Daniela Gregis ‘rectangle calf-length dress, one side in watercolour printed effect linen canvas and one in linen gauze, boat neck, flared sleeve stitched on the inside, side small buttons, same fabric belt, ‘Gregis’ hole, reversible front/back, it becomes a shawl.

Daniela, Gregis, Coat, SS15

Daniela, Gregis, Coat, SS15

Daniela Gregis waterproof silk faille overcoat with spots pattern, two patch pockets, ‘Gregis’ holes on the sides.

Daniela, Gregis, Bag, SS15

Daniela, Gregis, bags, SS15

Daniela Gregis bags.

Reinhard, Plank, Hat, SS15

Reinhard Plank bonnet style hat in loom operated straw hat, narrow rolled up at the edges brim forming a rose on the side.

Mae, Belts, SS15

Mae belts.

Boboutic, SS15

Boboutic calf-length skirt in stocking stitched cotton, stainless-steel and viscose with in movement ring deformable threads, elastic band at the belt in contrasting colour, side welt pockets, slip.

Bao, Bao, Issey, Miyake, SS15, Purse

Bao, Bao, Issey, Miyake, SS15

Bao Bao Issey Miyake hold-everything purse made by PVC triangular plates repeated trough an origami calculation on a polyester base, zip closure, l 24 cm x h 12 cm.

Bao, Bao, Issey, Miyake, SS15

Bao Bao Issey Miyake small rectangular shoulder bag made by platinum metallic PVC triangular plates repeated trough an origami calculation on a polyester base, small metallic detachable shoulder belt, smooth base with 2 metallic plates, l 13,5 cm x h 15,5 cm.

Photography by Sari Milan.








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