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Tag "Paris Fashion Week"

Zucca Fall/Winter 2017-2018 detail

Around the brand Zucca a private audience is joined together, happily surprised whenever they come in the store and find themselves immerse in such uncommon assortment in European boutiques.

Always a Japanese production, backed by the A-Net group, affiliated with Maison Miyake that also has Tsumori Chisato and Plantation, Zucca can brag with its own path, by now for more than ten years, that testifies a consolidated maturity.

Cleaned by some decorative elements, perhaps a bit too Japanese, it is interesting to notice the skill with which details and particulars are introduced to enliven the quotidian, the dimension in which Zucca is best placed. His design is difficulty applied on big occasions, but instead interprets everyday life with careful diagonal seams, small asymmetries and prints that, together with the comfortable volumes and the use of color, allows the usage in any moment of the day without unpleasant slippages in the banal or, even worse, in the slovenliness. Zucca respects the even more hasty and concrete rhythms, speeds up the wardrobe, does not engage with exorbitant costs and cultivates discreet aesthetics, appreciated when they are so easily put on.

Zucca Fall/Winter 2017-2018

Zucca Fall/Winter 2017-2018

Zucca Fall/Winter 2017-2018

Zucca Fall/Winter 2017-2018

A tour around our Fall/Winter 2017-2018 selection, following the few minutes of our footage from the Paris showroom, can help one imagine herself inside heavy coats, from technical padded jackets to long coats in organic cotton, knitwear in its various weights, to printed dresses or decorated with georgette for the occasions that requires more femininity.

Zucca show-room

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Y's Yohji Yamamoto Spring/Summer 2016

Maybe not everyone knows that before coming out with the line that now bears his full name, Yohji Yamamoto made his debut in 1972 with the Y’s. A possessive case strongly indicative of the paternity and affection feelings of the well-known Japanese designer towards his work and his young performance.

Y’s, in the true sense of ‘it belongs to Yohji’, could not then be considered today a second line, but instead an everyday alternative of the bolder stylistic codes reserved to the runway collections.

It is not a rare event that, in the wide Paris showroom in Rue Saint Martin, we find us facing the spoiler of choice between a fèmme piece or its Y’s similar, reflecting from time to time if privilege a more abstract and mature feminine interpretation or a more immature and practical one.

The final decision is usually commit to the more precise correspondence between shape, colour and composition, with the world evoked by the garment in question.

Y's Yohji Yamamoto Spring/Summer 2016 show-room

In the Y’s too, Yohji doesn’t scrimp on the involvement of distant artisans, last repositories of the rich Japanese textile heritage, and with extraordinary confidence and discretion leads these unmissable knowledges in refining the everyday life. Linen and cotton patchworks, gussets kept together by laborious stitchings, polka-dots spread on complex wideness, doubled fabrics, barely sketched and overlapped pleats, ad hoc placed darts, precise distribution of the empties and the voids, in a continuos, careful game around the details, the small particular, in order to confuse the position of dresses, jackets and knitwear, in two opposing worlds: one classic and conventional and the other more unpredictable and personal.

The effect is a displacement typical of Yohji Yamamoto’s trait, always in conscious and affected balance between the austerity and the unconventional.

Y's Yohji Yamamoto dress Spring/Summer 2016

Y's Yohji Yamamoto Spring/Summer 2016 dress detail

Y's Yohji Yamamoto Spring/Summer 2016 jeans and pois shirt

Y's Yohji Yamamoto Spring/Summer 2016 shirt pois

Y's Yohji Yamamoto Spring/Summer 2016 gilet

Y's Yohji Yamamoto Spring/Summer 2016 jumpsuit and back-pack

Y's Yohji Yamamoto Spring/Summer 2016 pants-dress

Y's Yohji Yamamoto Spring/Summer 2016 trousers

Y's Yohji Yamamoto Spring/Summer 2016 trousers detail

Y's Yohji Yamamoto Spring/Summer 2016 jacket

Y's Yohji Yamamoto Spring/Summer 2016 jacket detail

 

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Y's, Yohji Yamamoto, Showroom, Youtube

Click here to see IVO MILAN at work at Y’s Yohji Yamamoto showroom in Paris.

The season sales could be boring, with the pedantic reappearance of garments already seen and maybe perceived, euphemistically, as leftover stock. But this is also the moment when the more relaxed rhythms allow us to go into and to share the vision of the choices still present in our shop.

In fact we are able finally to make available one of the film shot during the Paris Fashion Week, March of the next year, at Y’s Yohji Yamamoto showroom.

From the 1990′s, during the buying campaign, we got the habit to shot our selections. A supplementary work, which introduce itself in the complex activity of the seasonal buying, to start the comprehension of elaborate collections, often difficult, even for the mere fact of being very far and different from what the conventional channels usually show and advertise. This commitment, maybe not excellent from a ‘technical’ point of view, brings forward and allows to metabolize the garments that will be housed in the shop.

It’s a video heritage that not only will gradually compose our wide documentary archive, but could quietly insert itself in the present, to appreciate at their best garments, in many cases already part of the winter wardrobe of our customers, that are still available in our online catalogue and naturally at our shop in Padua.

Below, in sequence, the main characters, so to speak, the survivors of our video:

Y's, Yohji, Yamamoto, Chanel, Jacket, Raw, Cut, Shirt, AW 2014-15

Y’s Yohji Yamamoto ‘Chanel’-like short jacket in carded polyester wool, acrylic and polyester, V neck, hooks closure, frayed cut raw edges, lined.

Y’s Yohji Yamamoto cotton poplin man shirt with sewn and laid on top panel staggered on a side on the breast, raw cut collar edges.

Y’s Yohji Yamamoto 5 pockets trousers in stretch cotton and polyurethane with side band in knitted wool, buttons and zip closure, belt loops, slim fit.

Y's, Yohji, Yamamoto, Sweater, Knitwear, AW 2014-15

Y’s Yohji Yamamoto long sweater in plain knitted wool and rayon and wool parts, high neck in contrasting colour, a small patch expanding pocket with flap, soft fit, small band at the hem and on the cuffs.

Y’s Yohji Yamamoto 5 pockets trousers in wool gabardine with side band in knitted wool and polyurethane, zip and button closure, belt loops, slim fit.

Y's, Yohji, Yamamoto, Scarf, 2014-15

Y’s Yohji Yamamoto big scarf in wool tartan with big polkadots print, fringes on the shorter sides, length 200 cm, height 72 cm.

Y's, Yohji, Yamamoto, Shirt, Trousers, AW 2014-15

Y’s Yohji Yamamoto cotton poplin man shirt with sewn and laid on top panel staggered on a side on the breast, raw cut collar edges.

Y’s Yohji Yamamoto 5 pockets trousers in stretch cotton and polyurethane with side band in knitted wool, buttons and zip closure, belt loops, slim fit.

Y's, Yohji, Yamamoto, Polka, Dot, Dress, AW 2014-15

Y’s Yohji Yamamoto dress in plain knitted wool with acrylic big ‘badly sewn’ polkadots, crew-neck, wide fitted at the waist line, bat three-quarter sleeves, two side pocket on the front, interesting to wear also with a belt.

Y’s Yohji Yamamoto 5 pockets trousers in wool gabardine with side band in knitted wool and polyurethane, zip and button closure, belt loops, slim fit.

Trippen black lace up shoes in vegetable-tanned calf leather treated with wax finish, wood wedge with para rubber sole.

Y's, Yohji, Yamamoto, Canvas, Dress, Wool, Waistcoat, Outfit, AW 2014-15

Y’s Yohji Yamamoto white poplin dress and long waistcoat in knitted wool jacquard, raw-cut frayed edges, lace closure on the neck, two patch side pockets, closed on the front and opened on the back, wearable front/back.

‘Classic Trippen’ ankle boot in oiled suede cowhide leather with strings and small hooks, removable cork insole, rubber sole.

Y's, Yohji, Yamamoto, Black, Dress, AW 2014-15

Y’s Yohji Yamamoto dress with wool jersey bodice and cupro and tencel neck, bottom and sleeves, shirt small neck collar, a vertical side small pocket, shirt-like cuffs with small buttons, wide fit.

Trippen black lace up shoes in vegetable-tanned calf leather treated with wax finish, wood wedge with para rubber sole.

Y's, Yohji, Yamamoto, Padded, Caban, Polka, Dot, Dress, AW 2014-15

Y’s Yohji Yamamoto padded pea coat in wool gabardine, trench style neck, press studs closure, wide bat sleeve, 2 side vertical pockets with zip, knitted fabric cuffs, trapezium line, adjustable coulisse at the bottom, reversible.

Y’s Yohji Yamamoto dress in plain knitted wool with acrylic big ‘badly sewn’ polkadots, crew-neck, wide fitted at the waist line, bat three-quarter sleeves, two side pocket on the front, interesting to wear also with a belt.

Trippen black lace up shoes in vegetable-tanned calf leather treated with wax finish, wood wedge with para rubber sole.

Y's, Yohji, Yamamoto, Oyuna, FW, 2015, Outfit

 

Oyuna padded pea coat in plain knitted cashmere, pin safety closure, cowl neck, dressing gown sleeves, two side vertical welt pockets, circle seams, reversible, available with agate lining.

Y’s Yohji Yamamoto baggy man style trousers in floral washed cotton brocade, button and zip closure, belt loops, 2 pockets on the front, 2 low big pockets on the back, adjustable back strap.

Trippen black lace up shoes in vegetable-tanned calf leather treated with wax finish, wood wedge with para rubber sole.

 

 


 

 

 

 



 

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Sacai, spring-summer 2012 fashion show, Salle des Tirages – Hôtel d’Evreux, Place Vendôme


Orlando Milan of  IVO MILAN, Padua, with Rosy Biffi of  BIFFI and Carla Sozzani of  10 CORSO COMO, Milan

Photographers in action

Overview of the Esplanade des Invalides

Showroom Rick Owens, 7 bis, Place du Palais Bourbon


Trading Museum Comme des Garçons, 54 Rue du Faubourg St. Honoré

Boutique Issey Miyake, 11, Rue Royale

Photographs by Sari Milan

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