A week after the Milan Fashion Week and the Paris Fashion Week, we are finally back with an appointment with our tutor Sari and her brand new combinations working beyond the catalogue.
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But we could also say “young prospects!” to introduce that curious collaboration between the proactive enthusiasm of a group of twenty-year-olds, lovers of photography, music, art and the long IVO MILAN clothing sector experience.
The Mood Board, creators of the new-born blog of the same name, have involved shop staff in an experimental shooting with which to start trying their hands at a yet unexplored area for them: fashion
Easily deceptive, full of crossed wires and stereotyped references, the label does not really match the long, well-rooted IVO MILAN tradition in its search for clothes and shapes that are far from any obsolete seasonal trend; thus, inevitably, differences of opinion but, above all, that fatal question:
how do others see us?
Seeing how young our collaborators are, they probably won’t give us the most articulate, aware answer. But that is no reason to discard such a young point of view, open to comparison, to accepting criticism and advice and to defending its green, passionate skills.
So we’ll leave you with The Mood Board shots and views of our outfits and their personal, original interpretation.
Enrica Breda is wearing:
Scha, soft crocheted foldable variation of the Panama hat in toquilla straw
patch of cotton indian checks Y’s Yohji Yamamoto shirt with a shorter front side and a straight panel at the hem, side buttoned, pointed collar, button fastening, short sleeves with row cut hem, double pleat at the joke, rounded hem
Johnbull jeans in a distressed wash and bleach denim with tears, relaxed fit, boot leg, button detachable suspender, waistband with belt loops, button fastening, classic five pocket style, adjustable buckle tab at rear
wide pleated and contrast colour printed polyester Pleats Please-Issey Miyake rucksack, padded polyester net back and bottom, zip fastening, top handle, adjustable straps, interior zipped pocket
Trippen ballerina in vegetable-tanned calf leather, wax finish treated, fold detail on the vamp, two cups rubber outsole
Johnbull bi-fabric dress with “ARMY” graphic faded print, front and back top in cotton and polyester jersey, sides and back skirt in light rayon and polyester satin, wide round neck, sleeveless, waist gathered at rear, curved hem, longer at the back
Johnbull cardigan in knit linen jacquard camouflage design, purple dye in lower part of bust and sleeves, v neck, button fastening, relaxed fit
Bao Bao Issey Miyake make-up purse in multicolor flexible glossy PVC triangles, zip closure
limited edition Scha hat in vintage quality, very fine weave sisal double layers, soft and ultralight, small brim, pliable wire in the edge
Katrien Van Hecke oversize bomber jacket in hand dye silk crepe, print realized with airbrush and natural colours come from spices and herbs, front zip fastening, collar and hem band in knit ribbed hemp blend, slanted welt pockets, silk lining
viscose and linen Forme d’Expression jersey dress, bias cut, skirt with slanted draped detail at front and back, low round neck, sleeveless, one side shorter, curved hem
Jiois Ga is wearing:
Comme des Garçons-Comme des Garçons cotton jersey t-shirt with striped front and Hawaiian pattern printed on sleeves and back, garment washed, round neck, short sleeves
Comme des Garçons-Comme des Garçons skirt culottes in Hawaiian pattern printed rexcell, garment washed, elasticated with inner drawstring waistband, sides pocket, unbalanced hem, wearable like a skirt in the wide leg with shorter leg out
Marsèll “goccia” classic man style shoe, featuring a perforated leather and no lace open front
Bao Bao Issey Miyake make-up purse in multicolor flexible glossy PVC triangles, zip closure
Issey Miyake boxy top in grid pleated polyester with colored surface print, three dimensional effect, as it is worn or touch the pleated cubes open and reveal colour contrast, boat neck, dropped shoulder
Forme d’Expression wide pants in light washed grainy linen, barrel-shaped, extra drop crotch, waistband with tab and button, button concealed fastening, front sides double pleat, sides slit pocket, wide welt pockets at rear
Marsèll “goccia” treated kangaroo leather lace-up style shoes, screen printing letters at front, no lace, rubber heel
The Beatles-Comme des Garçons synthetic leather bucked bag with outer top embossed apple logo detail, asymmetric shape, two short top handles, side press stud fastening, two internal zipped pockets
From left:
Junya Watanabe dress in smooth polyester with mesh curved inserts pattern in contrast tone, wide funnel neck with zip fastening, front bodice with sides embossed detail, short kimono sleeves, fitted waist, slightly flared skirt, knee length
Trippen cross leather bands sandal, velcro fastening at the ankle, see through wooden wedge heel
Junya Watanabe dress made up of polyester double cloth top in two colour and pleated skirt with polyester mesh overlay, sheer bust, scoop neck, sleeveless, above knee length
Trippen cross leather bands sandal, velcro fastening at the ankle, see through wooden wedge heel
Photographs by: Furio Marco Magliani
Contacts: Tommaso Dalla Libera
Models: Enrica Breda e Jiois Ga
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By taking the opportunity to look beyond the offerings of the online catalogue we indeed find not so well-known combinations of clothing with unfamiliar names and limited shop distribution that have retained the same original freshness of ‘new arrivals‘. Need an example?
Katrien Van Hecke is a a young Belgian designer who works with silk (only from Italy), and eco-friendly dyes made exclusively from wild herbs and plants, such as mint, chamomile and elderberry, or with spices more commonly known for their culinary uses rather than in textiles, as cinnamon, turmeric and chili pepper.
And there is also Vlas Blomme, whose name comes from the Flemish for ‘flax flower‘ and pays tribute to the fine flax selection of Kortrijk, used for most of the garments of the Japanese designer Satoshi Ishii.
Linen and silk cloth, natural dyes, comfortable and asymmetrical lines are the hallmarks of a brand particularly sensitive to the more relaxed pace of summer.
Here is a look at the proposals worn by our assistant, Sari -
Katrien Van Hecke dress in hand dyed silk crepe, print realized with airbrush and natural colours come from spices and herbs, round neck, center gathering folds, short sleeves, rear zip fastening, slightly flared shape, knee length
Rick Owens jacket in silk georgette double layer, slightly close fit, large stand up collar, concealed asymmetric front buttons fastening, side patch pockets, long sleeves with inner knit ribbed wool paneling
Trippen cross leather bands sandal, velcro fastening at the ankle, see thro
Katrien Van Hecke tunic in hand dyed silk crepe, print realized with airbrush and natural colours come from spices and herbs, round neck, cap sleeves, straight shape, relaxed fit, knee length
Trippen cross leather bands sandal, velcro fastening at the ankle, see through wooden wedge heel
Vlas Blomme flower printed tunic in cotton and linen canvas, garment washed, flared shape, v neck, sleeveless, button fastening
Vlas Blomme wide cropped pants in light linen jersey, garment washed, drop crotch, elasticated waistband, cupro lining
Scha soft crocheted foldable variation of the Panama hat in toquilla straw
Trippen thong sandal in white calf leather with red edge and rubber sole, flat wooden sole
Vlas Blomme reversible vest, one side in shiny linen and silk and melange linen on reverse, garment washed, shawl collar, front button fastening, two front welt button pockets, small vent at sides, adjustable buckle and slit at back, upside down wearable
Vlas Blomme bi-fabric gather skirt, one part in melange linen, the other in shiny linen and silk, garment washed, elasticated waistband at linen part and gathered with fringed top detail at the silk part, unbalanced hem
Stefano Mortari fitted tank top with front in plain stitch and back in thin ribbed modal blend jersey, ribbed wide round neck, ribbed armholes, raw cut hem
Thanks to Coffeeklatch creative chitchat for the pictures on Katrien Van Hecke and to Tranoi for the pictures on Vlas Blomme!
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The aesthetic dimension of the showcase…
We have spent many years arranging our shop window as the natural showcase for the collections that change from season to season inside the store. It is a sort of metaphysical space in which to display and show off the spectacular nature of certain apparel, and especially our own fanciful interpretation of these items. There is no way for us to be sure that the general feelings and ideas we have about the collections are conveyed in the best possible way, on the other hand, the designers themselves often leave out or simply refuse to express the possible connotations of their collections.
So that’s how it is, an entirely arbitrary composition that takes over the main window of the store each week, as well as the less imposing side windows and interior cases!
It is a general image that employs a precise aesthetic lesson provided by that singular and indefinable concept of beauty known as wabi-sabi; something that different forms of the so-called Japanese school expertly make use of in clothing. Greatly simplifying, we might say that wabi-sabi is the opposite of all that which in aesthetic terms we call ‘luxury’. Luxury is glitter, flashy and smacks of something new and artificial, it is easy to reproduce and make widely available; it has a simple and explicit message. The beauty of wabi-sabi remains open in every sense to the changing times, trends and events, making it impracticable, if not impossible, to replicate. In the words of Leonard Koren:
It is the beauty of things imperfect,
impermanent, and incomplete.
It is the beauty of things modest and humble.
It is the beauty of things unconventional.
Yohji Yamamoto, long train dress in organic cotton serge, flared shape, slit neck with pointed stand up top edge, front joke detail, sleeveless, horizontally cut at rear, tiered hem, row cut edges
Katrien Van Hecke, dress in hand dyed silk crepe, print realized with airbrush and natural colours come from spices and herbs, round neck, center gathering folds, short sleeves, rear zip fastening, slightly flared shape, knee length
Vlas Blomme, reversible jacket, one side in shiny linen and silk and melange linen on reverse, garment washed, notched collar, front button fastening, welt chest pocket, two front flap pockets, long sleeves with slit at the hem, small vent at back
Katrien Van Hecke, oversize bomber jacket in hand dye silk crepe, print realized with airbrush and natural colours come from spices and herbs, front zip fastening, collar and hem band in knit ribbed hemp blend, slanted welt pockets, silk lining
Rick Owens, long top in rayon and silk fine jersey, front draped at one side, straight shape, loose fit, rounded v neck, dropped shoulder, short sleeves, asymmetric front hem
Trippen, ballerina in vegetable-tanned calf leather, wax finish treated, fold detail on the vamp, two cups rubber outsole
Cauliflower-Issey Miyake, stretch honey comb pleated top in multicolor mosaic pattern printed, low round neck, dropped shoulder
Deux Dans Umi, asymmetric dress in polyester and viscose jersey, irregular curved cuts patterned with draped and embossed effect, asymmetric neck line, front slanted slit detail, sleeveless, row cut edges, shorter at the back
Vlas Blomme, melange linen with bar stripe back, wide fit, shawl collar, dropped shoulder, long tapered sleeves, no fastening, upside down wearable with longer effect
Bao Bao-Issey Miyake, tote bag in multicolor flexible glossy PVC triangles, black adjustable handle, interior zipped pocket; length: 34cm, height: 34cm, handle: 38cm
Photographs by Sari Milan
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