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A respectable new entry for this season, Phaedo Studios, a brand of Chinese origin, whose name is inspired by a Plato work, Phaedo (in ancient Greek Φαίδων, Phàidō).

Fascinated by the sound and the protagonists of the famous Platonic dialogue, the young designer Zhuzhu, baptizes his own experience characterizing it immediately with a cultured and sophisticated aura, confirmed by the extraordinary care with which he presents his collections. Graduated from SiChuan Fine Arts Institution and then trained at the London Central Saint Martins College of Art and Design, Zhuzhu continued his studies at the Royal Academy of Fine Arts in Antwerp, Belgium and in 2014 in Hangzhou, China, founded Phaedo Studios. A path of cultural internalization that is enriched and intensified by the relationships with representatives of the world of art, design and fashion, areas that the young designer does not separate, developing them instead as coordinates of his own artistic dimension. In 2017 he is in fact a guest of the Triennale di Milano where he encounters the artist and collector Axel Vervoordt with whom he will develop an assiduously collaborations cultivated by that wabi-sabi spirit that unites the two personalities.

In the very accurate stands of the Parisian showroom the silk, with a suggestive abundance of tones and shapes, is the protagonist and around this precious fiber a story takes shape, a story that concentrates on what is observed and that goes far beyond here and now. The astonishment, in the face of the enthralling nuances expressed by the hanging garments, starts a soft narrative that reveals the long and complex experiments in painting the fabrics.

The process is natural, hand-made in tanks containing: fruit, seaweed, earth, coffee. The color density is given by exposure to the sun which usually lasts 2 months. The more the garments are exposed to the sun the greater is the intensity of the color, therefore they are tinged, then left to dry and then tinged again and left in the sun, until the desired note is reached.

For this reason each garment is unique and can vary with use, changing shades when in contact with the skin and the air.

The fabrics are confusing, the cotton looks like silk, the silk seems leather, the burned paper gives a chromatic continuum that, like on a musical score, harmonizes the whole collection, highly crafted and strongly characterized by sartorial knowledge of ancient Chinese tradition.

Phaedo’s poetics finds breath in the silhouettes, an alternation of empty and full, of weights and lengths that expands and amplifies a femininity which is solemn and ethereal, resolute and diaphanous, in a stunning and poignant flow, between East and West, furrowing unexplored territories that, probably, are still emerging thanks to cultural influences and completely new and globalized visual syntheses.

 

As always, an opportunity to appreciate the discovery is to accompany you into his show-room in Paris…

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Nicola Bortoletto exhibition Ivo Milan

This is the first solo exhibition in its home town for Nicola Bortoletto, a young artist from Padua, class 1997.  An episode of dialogue between distant and, at the same time, close expressive experiences: on one hand the artistic manipulation of materials recovered from mainly construction contexts, such as tarred rubber and bitumen, on the other the particular sensitivity of IVO MILAN in identifying poetic languages within the so-called fashion system.

We encounter two different ways of shifting the focus from their instrumental or commercial origins to more visionary and aesthetic matrices, together, in the same space of the shop situated in via Santa Lucia 73, until next 10 June. A felt selection of artwork were one can observe how mater, in the abstract form chosen by the artist, also lends itself to existentialist analyzes and metaphors.

Part of the exhibition is a film made of moments, sequences of the artist’s creative process, and a graphic work, portrayed as a photographic book, which investigates the research and the creative process in his workplace.

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The fulcrum of Bortoletto’s experience is the elaboration of the elements as the foundation of the artistic work, as well as the naturalness of the used materials. In an age strongly characterized by the physical dematerialization of the work of art, the sculptor has in fact elaborated a language able to tell the strong relationship between the transience of time, the human being and the matter.

His sculptures appear as assemblages and actions of repositioning, works of art in which the material entity becomes a preponderant element, together with the desire to magnify the poor material of everyday use, without any figurative purpose. They appear as primitive and primordial works, which invite to be discovered by the spectator, an exclusive and personal interpreter of every stratification, furrow and scratch revealed by the material.

Remembering, once again, that until June 10th it will be possible to visit the exhibition at the IVO MILAN store in Via Santa Lucia, 73, in the centre of Padua, we leave you with a brief photo reportage of the inauguration of Friday May 10th

 

Find the Spring/Summer Collection 2019

 


 

 

 

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If only the Christmas holidays would be an occasion to offer not so obvious gifts, with redounded shapes and brands, but rather unique ones, for their material, for their creative ingenuity or thought intensity, a reason to take a look over our online catalogue or visit our store in via Santa Lucia in Padua, one could find…

Starting with Suzusan‘s cashmere, a young Japanese who already is the creator of splendid knitted accessories for Yohji Yamamoto, with his scarves, polka dot blankets and the knitwear, all colored with the ancient shibori technique, he surprises us with the usage of unusual colors on an usually so classic fibber.

suzusan-knitwear-fw-2018suzusan-blanquet-fw-2018We can continue with the bags in light and smooth colored and treated leather, from time to time, with paper, metal or rubber effect of the Dutch Frrry

frrry-bag-fw-2018frrry-bag-fw.2018-1Or with the Italian knitwear of F-cashmere, the historical producer of excellence cashmere, reversible and with suggestive nuances, or Very Busy, also reversible and with unusual colours in the background.

F-Cashmere-fw-2018very-busy-scarves-fw-2018Or with the hard to find fragrance of Comme des Garçons perfumes, reserved for the few boutiques that have the prestigious Japanese brand.

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The comfortable hats of the Japanese Chisaki, made in One Size only and with warm fabrics, never irritating, with shapes that can easily be modelled.

chisaki-fw-2018-hatsDepending on its receiver, the thought and the research can be lost among coats, padded coats, jackets or shirts of famous brands such as Issey MiyakeComme des Garçons or the very warm and poetic oversized sweaters of Junya Watanabe; to venture into the fabrics worked by the wisdom of Daniela Gregis, be amazed by the textile decorations of Renli Su, find yourself in the more discreet world of Casey Casey or in the somewhat androgynous modernity of Forme d’Expression… without boring you, the only thing to be done is to dive and look among the many photos and the wide range.

Comme-des-Garçons-Nike-shoesjunya-watanabe-fw-2018Everything, as you know by now, will be wrapped by the personal and irreproducible packages made ad hoc by the extraordinary hands of Heart Box and her students…ivo-milan-heart-boxivo-milan-heart-box-2ivo-milan-heart-box-3ivo-milan-heart-box-4ivo-milan-heart-box-5We leave you by involving you in a very short video, where Christmas becomes abstract and moment of free creativity in our boutique in via Santa LuciaPadua.

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Already a regular guest at London’s Dover Street Market, despite her young age, Renli Su unveils an unprecedented China compared to what usually comes in mind: a common place of low-cost productions or certain throwaway Chinese clothing.

Daughter of a globalization that shortens space-time distances, the designer of Fujian, is formed at the Central Academy of Fine Arts in Beijing and continues her studies at London College of Fashion in London. Passionate about history and linked to the placid and maritime landscapes of her country of origin, in an unique and very personal cultural syncretism, Renli Su weaves her collections keeping stretch the strings between local solicitations and the discoveries related with the history of costume, discoveries carried out during the studies in Great Britain.

It’s the Victorian England that fascinates the designer in particular, as the shapes and fabrics can reveal the social life of the nineteenth and early twentieth century. The fabrics revived in the fairs and vintage markets of the European metropolis, allow her to cultivate, with the typical academic look of those who are ardent for textiles – less accessible in China after the Cultural Revolution – a cure for visual details, appropriating them in the realization of her garments.

Each collection follows and elaborates a historical theme, for the Fall/Winter 2018-2019 the inspiration is drawn from the extraordinary story of the French botanist Jeanne Baret, born in 1740 and considered the first woman to circumnavigate the world. Jeanne’s insatiable curiosity and desire for adventure led her on an almost impossible journey: disguised as a man she embarked on the ship of the Prince Louis Antoine de Bouganville, remaining many years at sea and visiting the most remote places. During her travels she discovered, collected and cataloged hundreds of species of plants, among which the most famous is the bougainvillea, named in honor of the chief explorer of the expedition.

One wonders what is the connection between the French researcher and the work of the Chinese designer and it is Renli Su herself who explains it to us:

“While Jeanne Baret represented two different ways of observing the natural world, combining the feminist folk knowledge of herbalism with the botanical science until then dominated by men, I seek a balance between feminine and masculine silhouettes, fusing elements of the Victorian era and floral motifs with the sailor’s uniform for a more contemporary and active vision of the woman”

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And here is the translation, in a tenderhearted textile story:

Naval traditions are evoked by the creamy white furrowed with blue and beige stripes, sometimes with “lacquered” effect treatments that emphasize the shimmering of the sun and the salt; intense blue and faded grays suggest the depths of the oceans. Embroidered flowering branches, as if they had naturally fallen on the quilted and slightly embossed cotton, replicate the meticulous drawings of the adventurous botany. And again, cotton and linen jacquards rise like sailor sleeves. The silk and wool textures are offered thinking to protect those exposed to the weather of the trip. The Victorian details are seen in the ‘diboning of the corset’, with crossed strings and textile patchwork that together bring elements of Chinese culture, from cotton paper, to familiar work uniforms that can be traced in diagonal cuts and closures. The quilted cotton and the use of synthetic fur with very warm yak fibers, for jackets and reversible coats, insist on respecting the seasonal thermal requirements.

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Renli Su makes no secret of her inspirations and aspirations which, as herself writes, emerge from an instinct, deeply human, of adventure and the courage to follow it, regardless of one’s origin and culture, in spaces, geographical or mental, still unknown and often antithetical.

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As always, an opportunity to appreciate the discovery is to accompany you into his show-room in Paris…

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Find online the New Collection

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Comme des Garçons-F/W-2018-'19-dress

Sometimes we have noticed how, in the collections by Rei Kawakubo in art Comme des Garçons, we can find the textile expression of philosophical concepts or perceptions on the contemporary deepened in the form of a dress.

The theatrical shows that characterize the presentations of the last seasons, accompany the spectators inside intense suggestions, emphasized by lights, music and scenes designed to enhance the cryptic proposal of the Japanese intellectual.

For the Fall/Winter 2018-2019 the inspiration comes from a work by Susan Sontag, Notes on Camp, in which the American author reflects around a sensitivity, defined precisely Camp and that we could summarize in the following passage:

 

«It is not a natural mode of sensibility, if there be any such. Indeed the essence of camp is its love of the unnatural: of artifice and exaggeration. […] A sensibility is almost, but not quite, ineffable. Any sensibility which can be crammed into the mold of a system, or handled with the rough tools of proof, is no longer a sensibility at all. It has hardened into an idea.»

Source: Wikipedia

The theme, collected by Rei Kawakubo, is dressed up in hyper and oversized multicolor structures created exclusively for the fashion show, in the fellinian sound of Nino Rota, in the dim light reserved for the funny, excessive and dreamlike figures on the catwalk.

The following translation into the showroom reveals items of much more reasonable portability, although densely inhabited by that original poetic aura. The presence of velvet, of frequent floral rouche, of contrasting color stratifications composed on torn fabrics bring the collection to a Venetian atmospheres, evoking a luxurious and evolved 18th century, dedicated to an intense social life, enriched with occasions and cultural events. The designer‘s soul wraps so in textile acrobatics the curious, aesthetically vulnerable, silhouettes of female minds still available to welcome astonishment and imaginative value in the everyday routine, making it much more special!

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As always, an opportunity to appreciate the discovery is to accompany you into his show-room in Paris…

Comme-des-Garçons-you-tube-showroom

 

Find online the New Collection:

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