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   IVO MILAN – Radical Fashion Blog

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Much closer to a theatrical performance, the Comme des Garçons fashion shows have become an opportunity to witness the staging of a sort of textile fashion zeitgeist. The designer’s renouncement of any sort of purposeful function for the season links, in fact, the viewers to an unprecedented interpretive tension, aimed at guessing the possible materials that they may be able to see later in the showroom but also, and this being everyone’s challenge, guessing the cryptic message carried by strictly scenographic clothes, often in symbiosis with the soundtrack. Inside the Russian embassy, the selected place for the Spring/Summer 2018 fashion show, we will not find any garment that can be worn, but the theme and the spirit of the collection, called Multidimensional Graffiti.

Rei Kawakubo arbitrarily combines the 16th century, in the recognizable works of Arcimboldo and Sesson Shuchei (an artist more familiar to the Japanese culture) with the contemporary black and white illustrations by Stefan Marx, the graphic design of the eBoy group, the manga drawings of Makoto Tahashi, or the colored faces of Serge Vollin. A hammering soundtrack, definitely pop, holds together the different artistic experiences, perhaps an invitation to recognize the value of youth culture or more a subtle parody of the confusion around the concept of contemporary art?

Accompanied by the many questions created by the designer herself, in the showroom we finally discover the translation in the form of dress of the Kawakubo provocations.

The pictorial or graphic works occupy the entire space of the dresses and shirts, classic fabrics, such as the glen plaid become gimmicks to emphasize more sophisticated textile games, made of cut sleeves and sewn on the body. The forms help, in their way of suiting nicely, to transform the female silhouettes into singular supports meant to lead elements of art history in everyday life.

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Our video footage can be an useful tool to enter with less difficulty in the most practicable dimension of Comme des Garçons and to learn also about the less daring world of the other line dear to the Maison, the Comme des Garçons-Comme des Garçons.

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Find online the new Spring/Summer Collection 2018

 

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Never as for the case of Gustavo Lins is the expression ‘clothes as architectures for the body’ more fitting. In fact the Brasilian designer is born as an architect but, after accepting the challenge of his university professor, he transferred and put into play the skills acquired in the discipline onto other materials. It is not by chance that his creations repeat that harmonious geometric complexity, of whom has the clear awareness about proportions and measures.

In his professional evolution Gustavo is today more and more fascinated by the kimono, above all for the elegance in which he forces the wearer’s posture, but also for the freedom granted in his ability to be ‘adjust’. Combining his passion for geometry with the qualities of the traditional Japanese garment, the designer therefore focuses on pieces that do not offer a size development but rather adapt and modify their plasticity according to the different silhouettes.

Tunics and dresses, or the interesting shirt/jacket with fabric parts and knitted parts, lend themselves to non-unique uses, can be worn long or shorter, wider or slim fit, with simple precautions that from time to time transform balances and appearances. Not suitable for those looking for a resolute and dry composure, Gustavo aims at a more open and available public, accommodating towards indeterminate and less definitive lines, that are able to reveal themselves in motion and in the participatory experimentation of those who choose them.

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As always, an opportunity to appreciate the discovery is to accompany you into his show-room in Paris…

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Find online the new Spring/Summer Collection of Gustavo Lins

 

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Daniela Gregis

 

While winter insists in the slow progress of Febbruary, the new collections already anticipate a spring glimpse. The first deliveries of Issey Miyake, Pleats Please, Shu Moriyama and Boboutic, accelerate the calendar projecting us on milder temperatures, longer days and more radiant colors, teasing a yearning for change, for a radical aesthetic renewal now dulled by winter routines.

 

Every day the catalog of Spring/Summer 2018 collection expands … new photos, new arrivals and new discoveries!

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Daniela Gregis

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Daniela Gregis

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Issey Miyake

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Issey Miyake

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Forme D’Expression

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Casey Casey

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Boboutic

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Boboutic

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Zucca – Japan

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Zucca – Japan

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Trippen – Berlin

Find the New Collection Spring/Summer 2018 online

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native-village-coat-particularAnd again Japan is the place from which a new entry comes with the symbolic name Gasa*, ‘gauze’ in Spanish, deliberately chosen by the designer Mie Igarashi, pointing to the close reference to one of the primary materials, with which he comes in contact since birth. A fabric that protects, cares and puts at ease, a strong indication of the operating intent of the brand: the use of natural and non-allergenic fibers, comfortable volumes, without the formal concessions of the ‘classics’ of the so-called Japanese school, colour sensitivity and full control of textile production, in an evolved balance between ethnic and high-tech demands.

gasa-knitwear-particulargasa-knitwear-particular-2gasa-cardigan-particulargasa-particularA reality that expands in collaboration with Native Village, a small brand designed by Masaaki Matsuya, where the allusions to the familiar dimension of the village and to the continuities offered by nature are by no means casual.

native-village-heavy-jacket-particularnative-village-skirt-particular-1Both brands reveal a very contemporary way of doing business where the most appropriate way to enter the market and create a whimsical dream can collaborate and be of mutual support. Also from this collaborative element emerges a particularly pronounced sensitivity, where the two different languages find important convergence points.

If Gasa* expresses with more intensity a discreet and playful approach, translated from details such as patches in the knitwear or integrations of knitwear and fabric, Native Village, in choosing a single fabric of great rarity, focuses on colour and on an overwhelming will to offer unique and almost unobtainable pieces.

In their small production, they add flavour to more mature and recognizable contexts, bringing the freshness of unique and passionate gestures.

As always, an opportunity to appreciate the discovery is to accompany you into their show-room in Paris…video-youtube-gasa-and-native-village

Find online the collection of Gasa and Native Village

 

 

 

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individual-sentiments-particularSometimes, discovering new realities, flair and intuition serve very little. In the intensity of the Paris Fashion Week, it is not really possible seeing all the showrooms that one promise to visit before departure. Finding addresses, organizing appointments, and defining a reasonable timetable, where places and times remain as near as possible, have little chances to succeed. However, in optimizing the time available, there is a golden rule: enhancing the network of trustworthy acquaintance and responding to the invitations of those who know our selective track.

This is the case of Individual Sentiments, novelties of the Japanese matrix, indicated by the beloved Bimbi, which you’ve met years ago in the Carpe Diem house. Little are the references to rely on, being the first winter collection for women, the brand, sketched by the designer Yoko Ito, was born in 2009 only with the line for men. Without any other connections, if not the trust in the author of the recommendation and the interesting work in the male expression of the brand, we went to a showroom that could not be identified otherwise: a basement, very suggestive, but, alas, not illuminated, in a somewhat secluded street within the Marais. Our footage, as usual, may be helpful in discovering the ‘feminine’ work of Individual Sentiments.

blog-individual-sentiments-youtubeA very contemporary concept of design, where the need for differentiation inherent in the need to ‘change cloths’ is entrusted to very subtle and unexpected stylistic elements. A meticulous selection of materials, strictly Japanese, of colors, being one with the fabric, a highly conceptual formal definition learned and cultivated during the important collaboration with Maurizio Altieri at the time of Carpe Diem, an extraordinary Italian avant-garde experience.

Within these guidelines, Individual Sentiments develops a language far from fashion trends, realistically timeless, where complex provocations and challenges are not lacking, where what may seem at first glance is not: knitting of certain fabrics, coats that, overturning them, become dresses or dresses that, on the contrary, look like coats. And again, textile exercises where chromatic movement is provided by the combination of straight and reversed fabrics or nuances used to accentuate luminous effects.

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A collection that, although at its beginnings, already reveals decisively a stateless and organic soul, in a loud tuning and tight dialogue with the most advanced cultural stresses of our time.

 

Find online the Individual Sentiments Collection

 

 

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