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Y's Yohji Yamamoto Spring/Summer 2016

Maybe not everyone knows that before coming out with the line that now bears his full name, Yohji Yamamoto made his debut in 1972 with the Y’s. A possessive case strongly indicative of the paternity and affection feelings of the well-known Japanese designer towards his work and his young performance.

Y’s, in the true sense of ‘it belongs to Yohji’, could not then be considered today a second line, but instead an everyday alternative of the bolder stylistic codes reserved to the runway collections.

It is not a rare event that, in the wide Paris showroom in Rue Saint Martin, we find us facing the spoiler of choice between a fèmme piece or its Y’s similar, reflecting from time to time if privilege a more abstract and mature feminine interpretation or a more immature and practical one.

The final decision is usually commit to the more precise correspondence between shape, colour and composition, with the world evoked by the garment in question.

Y's Yohji Yamamoto Spring/Summer 2016 show-room

In the Y’s too, Yohji doesn’t scrimp on the involvement of distant artisans, last repositories of the rich Japanese textile heritage, and with extraordinary confidence and discretion leads these unmissable knowledges in refining the everyday life. Linen and cotton patchworks, gussets kept together by laborious stitchings, polka-dots spread on complex wideness, doubled fabrics, barely sketched and overlapped pleats, ad hoc placed darts, precise distribution of the empties and the voids, in a continuos, careful game around the details, the small particular, in order to confuse the position of dresses, jackets and knitwear, in two opposing worlds: one classic and conventional and the other more unpredictable and personal.

The effect is a displacement typical of Yohji Yamamoto’s trait, always in conscious and affected balance between the austerity and the unconventional.

Y's Yohji Yamamoto dress Spring/Summer 2016

Y's Yohji Yamamoto Spring/Summer 2016 dress detail

Y's Yohji Yamamoto Spring/Summer 2016 jeans and pois shirt

Y's Yohji Yamamoto Spring/Summer 2016 shirt pois

Y's Yohji Yamamoto Spring/Summer 2016 gilet

Y's Yohji Yamamoto Spring/Summer 2016 jumpsuit and back-pack

Y's Yohji Yamamoto Spring/Summer 2016 pants-dress

Y's Yohji Yamamoto Spring/Summer 2016 trousers

Y's Yohji Yamamoto Spring/Summer 2016 trousers detail

Y's Yohji Yamamoto Spring/Summer 2016 jacket

Y's Yohji Yamamoto Spring/Summer 2016 jacket detail

 

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Looking closely at a garment of the the so-called Japanese school great master Yohji Yamamoto is not only a rare occasion, but the audience reaction is always the same too: silence and an expression that instantly changes the face, as if to say very simply: ‘Here we are behind’. Behind fashion, behind the seasonal trends, behind what one could usually see, behind the widespread boredom of making clothes with approximation.

In increasingly critical times for the clothing field, where more and more less space is left to the know-how, where the production rhythms are more and more compromised by the minimizing of the costs and especially by the increasing of the manufacturing companies profit margins, having the chance to intercept a Yohji Yamamoto’s work is like finding relief in the middle of the most hazardous desert. Because the high quality tailoring, applied to accessible models and with an eloquent design, could excite on the same level of every other noble artistic expression. And Yohji, more than ever, is a skilled weavers of ancient knowledges and contemporary solicitations, gained in metropolitan contexts with an high concentration of relationships, contaminations and syncretism.

For the Spring/Summer 2016 we have a personal interpretation of an Enlightenment atmospheres, in the bustiers composed by articulated asymmetries on the wider volumes of skirt and trousers, emphasized by the sumptuous scenario of the Hotel de Ville in Paris, selected for the runway show.

But the historical citation mixes and confuses itself with more contemporary and urban silhouette, evoked with determination by the lengths and the details of the overcoats, in the calculated disorder of certain dresses and tops

 

 

and especially in the explicit collaboration with the very young painter Yuuka Asakura (discover her instagram and twitter profiles) called to paint her abstract works on the already very precious Japanese cottons.

 

 

The ubiquitous black colour gets dirty with pictorial signs with a charming chromatic involvement, inviting the audience to observe with calm and attention, to stop by, discovering also the less showy gestures in fibres that reveal themselves in their curate and surprising three-dimensionality.

In opposition to the more pressing and emerging requests of time and space compression, Yohji Yamamoto with the most discreet savoir faire, remembers us that the beauty could be still part of our stories, we just need to never stop seeking it.

 

The Spring/Summer Yohji Yamamoto collection is on www.ivomilan.com

 

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Although not having a resounding name as the very famous English brand Burberry, Kate Sheridan and her production of waterproof raincoats are pretty well known in the British country. Used to sudden weather changes, going through long moments of grey and gloomy skies, the young designer is experimenting with a product of a quick and strategic use, ideal in the so-called mid-seasons, when stratify is necessary and have a piece clothing that shelter you from very probable and frequent downpour.

Kate Sheridan Shop Online

With an essential design, the company proposes a piece of clothing of medium or short length, with a large volume, precisely to give the freedom to who is wearing it to add or take off garments without feeling constricted inside it.

Kate Sheridan Shop Online

The pattern is serial: hood, central back dart, high diagonal welt pockets and a double-breasted closure, now identifying the label, with a couple of buttons from side to side that could be simply closed in the middle, giving to the garment the look halfway between the cape and the raincoat. This last attention is also aimed at letting emerge the patterns of the inner linings chosen for the current season. The creative exercise is in fact played around the chromatic choice of the cotton waterproofed with the most ancient and natural technique, the bee wax, and its matching with the inner canvas.

Shop online kate sheridan

As much modular as Kate Sheridan’s job could be,  it won’t promise us the surprises to which more propulsive realities accustomed us, the final result is an outerwear with all the characteristics to become a great classic, but free from every nostalgic and boring bon ton. The sketched lines, open to conforming themselves to the habits of who lives it, with pleats and signs draw in the time and, moreover, the accentuated chromatic sensibility allow the young British designer to dialogue with confidence with the the contemporary fashion vanguards.

Kate Sheridan

Kate Sheridan provides an eclectic collection of accessories and outerwear.

Kate Sheridan: an eclectic array of accessories.

 

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Daniela Gregis SS16

Abirinzà, a sound more than a word, coming from the recurrent Earth cadences from which Daniela Gregis draw the inspiration for this spring/summer 2016, brings us important clues about the construction of a collection particularly full of ornamental patterns. The designer with this sound expression, probably invented, evokes the Sardinia, with its rooted and complex textile traditions, the extensive and expertise use of the loom, but also with its rich heritage of memories and nostalgia.

Daniela Gregis SS 2016

Daniela Gregis SS 2016

Abirinzà broods over the memories of hard work laying them down as poetic logos in unexpected positions, becoming systematic patchwork gussets, where two different possibilities combine themselves together: fragments saved from the past and reassembled in canvas next to a painting or more slow and difficult weaving, nets and gauzes, loom and crochet, embracing each other in perfect harmony.

Daniela Gregis SS 16

Daniela Gregis SS 16

The designer from Bergamo certifies in this way each piece, claiming an authenticity in the acrobatic vicissitudes of the paintbrush, that stains and gives new life to the linen nets, joint with their negatives in cotton poplin, because the process should be watched in its integrity, combining itself with the first work. The silks, in the slippery brightness of the crêpe de chine, become bright palettes of strained colour, in the more contrasting red-blue shades, but also in the less radical blue-pastel light blue and white. Or the vichy, quoted also in other seasons, widen themselves becoming definite squares with more and more large spaces, always treated with the washing to contain the cotton strict rigidity.

Daniela Gregis SS 2016

Daniela Gregis SS 16

Daniela Gregis SS 2016

Abirinzà are the open doors of the memory silos, abirinzà are the surprises regenerate in the changes of thinking, abirinzà is the just started spring, abirinzà are the fresh starts and the promises of staying well.

Dabiela Gregis SS16

Daniela Gregis SS 2016

Daniela Gregis SS 2016

Daniela Gregis SS 2016

Daniela Gregis SS16

Discover the full ‘Abirinzà’ collection on our online catalogue

 

 

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Paris, Saturday 5th March 2016, Rue Royal, boutique Issey Miyake.

Reportage Issey Miyake

We couldn’t miss the presentation night of the new book dedicated to the work of Issey Miyake.

Reportage Parigi Issey Miyake

An occasion to visit the beautiful Paris boutique, say hi to the many colleagues present there and of course browsing through the suggestive pictures of the book for the very first time.

Reportage da Parigi Issey Miyake

Vibrant and overwhelming the emotion in assisting a very important acknowledgement for the creative developments of one of the most important contemporary designer and an unmissable chance to bring our most sincere, unrelenting congratulations to the Maison current artistic director, the young Yoshiyuki Miyamae.

Ivo Milan - Issey MiyakeIVO MILAN with Yoshiyuki Miyamae and TESSABIT di Como.

Issey Miyake Shop OnlineShop Online Issey MiyakeIssey Miyake Online

Issey Miyake Shop Online Ivo Milan

Shop Online

More info on Issey Miyake.

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