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   IVO MILAN – Radical Fashion Blog

After 24 years spent in our historic space in Santa Lucia street, the story of IVO MILAN starts again in Altinate street 149, along the continuation of the same ancient roman street, Annia Popilia, overlooking the magnificent Romanesque Santa Sofia church and alongside the Pesaro Palace (Pizzo today), residence of a young Mozart in 1770, during his visit of Padua. Not only, very close to the baroque San Gaetano church and its very famous museum complex that stands nearby.

Every day the shop completes itself with new details, becoming more and more comfortable and showing slowly its innate beauty thanks to the warm wood of the ground floor ceiling, to the visible irregular stone wall of the hallway, to the second room floor in Creta’ stone and to the medieval volts of the basement.

Returning operative again in the lively atmosphere of residents, filled with young students facing their difficult exams of the faculties of engineering, statistics, physics and mathematics, the technical pole of the University of Padua. While shopping or drinking coffee you are immersed in the typical university routine, where every operator, from the bartender to the baker is part of that world, calling boys and girls by name, knowing the teacher’s fame, participating in the outcome of the exam: passed or failed? Complicit and busy faces, often festive, despite the inevitable exam’s anxiety.

A new life, animated by a passing by of people deeply connected to the historic Altinate hamlet.

With the welcome of the neighborhood, with some little insights of the new shops, we come back with our Mix and Match, worn by Ginevra and Sari. The photographic set still to be set up, the tirelessly rhythm of the fittings still to be done, alongside with the depth of the last few months, led us to show a little bit of ourselves at the debut of the Summer season, still under the effects of the titanic move we’ve just faced.

Ginevra is wearing the hip-lenght jacket, slim, in stretch silk and elastan georgette in shaded gold by RUNDHOLZ DIP, the long and lean tank top in light and blue tones printed jersey by RUNDHOLZ,  the short and wide trousers in hemp, cotton and metal pinstripe by MARC LE BIHAN and the ‘friar-like’ sandal in leather, wood and expanded eva by RAWCLAYS. As for the accessories she has the bag in green tones calf and cow leather by NUMERO 10.

Sari is wearing the hip-lenght top in cold tinted viscose and cotton twill in aubergine tones by ZIGGY CHEN, the 5 pockets trousers in washed and flamed ramié and linen denim by FORME D’EXPRESSION and HALF sabot in hammered cowhide leather slipper style by TRIPPEN. As for the accessories she has vertical rectangular bag in smooth cowhide leather by ZIGGY CHEN.

All the new collection currently has the 20% discount for the mid-sales.

We remind you that we changed the opening hours, you can find us from from Tuesday to Saturday from 10am to 1pm and from 3pm to 7 pm.

 

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Winner of the 2023 edition of the prestigious CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund – award dedicated to the new design generations, established to sustain the most promising talents of the international scene in order that, quoting Anne Wintour, can be seen and heard – German origins and one master at the Parson University of New York, by now her chosen city, Melitta Baumeister is the designer of the homonymous brand founded in 2013 in the Big Apple, claimed for the already defined and identifiable language, constantly swinging between two worlds in dialogue: fashion and sculpture.

Where the inspiration takes form from items and fabrics of ordinary use, without formal and decorative excess, Melitta misleads the collocation, floors, by introducing materials that serve as real plastic structures that modify the space around the body of whom is wearing them. Dresses, shirts and tops, change their nature of necessary elements to a metropolitan everyday routine, lived following comfort needs typically juvenile and dynamic, of rides by bicycle and morning runs, in real communicative occasions: the sponge inserts itself in the rigid cotton or polyester giving three-dimensional original geometries and moving the usual axis of the architectural prospective.

 

Waves, irregualar bubbles and circles become spatial elements that decorate the silhouette connecting it to the ether, in a movement that accompanies the regal stride changing the perception, insinuating cheerfulness, surprise and influencing the posture itself, thanks to forms with disorienting visual impact, authentically new.

 

Melitte sustains short production chains, everything is produced in New York, and the textile lab are seen and followed incessantly in a productive cycle open to facing challenges, solving criticalities. Some items are treated as continuous, becoming real icons of the brand, following an ethic against the obsolescence typical of the sector.

 

The designer also reveals frequent contamination with artistic avantgardes and aesthetic symbols of her generation, traceable in the bold sketched snakes prints, in monochromatic contrast grafic signs or in trompe l’oeil hand dyed, decisively pop.

 

Photo by Document Journal

 

A creative and handcrafted adventure, the one of Melitta Baumeister, already widely embraced by art galleries and independent boutique, destined to developments to observe with curious and open attention.


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Introducing another new addition to the FW 2023-24 season: DAWEI. The eponymous brand of the young Paris-based designer, Dawei Sun, was launched in 2016 after his graduation from the École de la Chambre Syndicale de La Couture. He gained experience as a collaborator with Balenciaga and John Galliano, and later served as the artistic director of Maison Cacharel.

He was a finalist in the prestigious Andam Fashion Award, the foremost French fashion competition founded in 1989 and initially won by Martin Margiela. He officially joined the Paris Fashion Week schedule in 2019, showcasing his designs on the runway.

Strongly influenced by French couture and the bold expressions of the Japanese school, Dawei provides a personal reinterpretation, bridging the unattainable refinement of the former with the more creatively rugged aspects of the latter. The result is a sophisticated synthesis of textile experiments, where fibers blend to simulate traditional fabrics. For instance, the chevron pattern is adapted to significantly more comfortable solutions, allowing for feminine silhouettes, sometimes embracing, as seen in bustiers. Similarly, wool jersey, guided by skillfully executed stitches, attains an elegance not commonly associated with it.

Wide or fitted lines, shorter of longer lengths, all skillfully measured and in constant balance.

His decorative choices act as dynamic structures that breathe life into character and originality without imposing themselves through excessive force.

The entire collection exudes a promising freshness, making it both wearable and feminine. Even in its more explicit expressions, there’s a refined and evolved quality that evokes a forgotten memory.


 

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Far from being a newcomer to the world of design, Ziggy Chen, the pseudonym of Chen Xiang, launched his men’s fashion label in Shanghai in 2012. This followed years of experience in teaching textile design and leading Decoster Concept, an avant-garde brand targeted at the local Chinese market.

His success and international recognition enabled him to introduce a women’s fashion line in 2019.

With a distinct Eastern skill set, Ziggy seamlessly merges elements from the vast traditional heritage of his homeland with the influences and rhythms of the Western world. This syncretism encompasses the importation of the finest European and Japanese textiles, their reassembly using ancient local manufacturing techniques, and stylistic interpretations continually influenced by the world of visual arts, the many countries he has visited, and a particular emphasis on the simple and industrious daily life.

Ziggy Chen fuses these diverse influences and knowledge while guided by a concept of comfort and a pronounced preference for natural fibers, including silk, cotton, wool, and cashmere. His artistic vision incorporates asymmetries and decorative details, skillfully harmonized through his tailoring expertise and the chromatic sensitivity derived from the selected fibers for each creation.

 

Credits:

Stylist: Sari Milan
Photography: Cezara Schiopu
Text: Soili Milan

Collaborations: Centro Ottico – Gruppo GREEN VISION

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Eco-fashion-designer of Italian-Austrian origin, Agostina Zwilling is an artist who investigates processes, scenarios, methodologies and best practices in design.

Using the nunofelt technique, she creates works ranging from interior design (fibre walls, paintings, carpets, tapestries etc.) to clothing.

Shapes and colours are moulded by hand, through a slow process that goes from massaging silk, wool, cashmere, linen, hemp, beech, etc., to choosing the plants, flowers and roots that make up the chromatic bases.

Each garment is a unique work, an actual size development is impossible, because the finishes become unrepeatable and the manipulation generates new nuances and details each time. Even the idea of a definitively finished work is inconceivable. The fibres move, change with time, depending on the wearer’s use and silhouette.

Nunofelt is dynamic by nature and, in Zwilling’s work, lends itself to a correspondence with the concept of the ‘open work’, understood as an artwork.

whose aesthetic, formal or material identity is not defined once and for all, but is subject to factors of variability that make it, to a greater or lesser extent, always different. (Cit. Umberto Eco)

But it is also open in its possibility of being interpreted in ways that vary according to the sensitivity and emotions of those who encounter it.

Zwilling’s is not a clothing line, but represents a true philosophy of life that aggregates and connects training, creativity, sustainable supply chains, ethical and aesthetic awareness, according to an idea that weaving is a gesture that intersects human and social networks with the final product, without interruptions, as a responsible and circular action, in harmonious and conscious tension within a flow that smacks of art, anthropology, ecology, and in general of culture and beauty.

On the ivomilan.com you can discover the Zwilling private collection for autumn/winter 2023-24.

Agostina Zwilling is the founder of the Italian Felt Academy. The school is located in Verona town, Italy. For more information and contacts, you can visit the Italianfeltacademy.it

Below, a photographic tour in the experimental processes that characterize the work of the designer (the material is provided by Zwilling herself and all rights are reserved)

Agostina Zwilling eco felt designer by vocation.

Her world does not contemplate needles and scissors. Agostina does not sew: she unites. Agostina does not produce: she creates.

Her world does not contemplate needles and scissors. It winds and unwinds around a thread that is not just raw material, but also a relationship.It is the thread that ties different sensibilities, perceptions and intuitions together, making them into one story bursting with many differences. It is the experience of a common “feeling”. Agostina does not sew: she unites. Agostina does not produce: she creates. She loves to put together what has been damaged. Soothing, warming, wrapping. Even a tear is useful to her purpose: it is breaking the rule, the subversion of order in favour not of dis-order, but of Harmony. Her prime preoccupation (which we can identify with) is to propose a new “perception” of the world.

Agostina Zwilling, a felt-fashion-artist committed to spreading the ancient art of felt making in modern couture, is the founder of the Italian Felt Academy. The school was situated in Verona, Italy. For more information, visit  www.italianfeltacademy.it

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