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   IVO MILAN – Radical Fashion Blog

Introducing another new addition to the FW 2023-24 season: DAWEI. The eponymous brand of the young Paris-based designer, Dawei Sun, was launched in 2016 after his graduation from the École de la Chambre Syndicale de La Couture. He gained experience as a collaborator with Balenciaga and John Galliano, and later served as the artistic director of Maison Cacharel.

He was a finalist in the prestigious Andam Fashion Award, the foremost French fashion competition founded in 1989 and initially won by Martin Margiela. He officially joined the Paris Fashion Week schedule in 2019, showcasing his designs on the runway.

Strongly influenced by French couture and the bold expressions of the Japanese school, Dawei provides a personal reinterpretation, bridging the unattainable refinement of the former with the more creatively rugged aspects of the latter. The result is a sophisticated synthesis of textile experiments, where fibers blend to simulate traditional fabrics. For instance, the chevron pattern is adapted to significantly more comfortable solutions, allowing for feminine silhouettes, sometimes embracing, as seen in bustiers. Similarly, wool jersey, guided by skillfully executed stitches, attains an elegance not commonly associated with it.

Wide or fitted lines, shorter of longer lengths, all skillfully measured and in constant balance.

His decorative choices act as dynamic structures that breathe life into character and originality without imposing themselves through excessive force.

The entire collection exudes a promising freshness, making it both wearable and feminine. Even in its more explicit expressions, there’s a refined and evolved quality that evokes a forgotten memory.


 

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Far from being a newcomer to the world of design, Ziggy Chen, the pseudonym of Chen Xiang, launched his men’s fashion label in Shanghai in 2012. This followed years of experience in teaching textile design and leading Decoster Concept, an avant-garde brand targeted at the local Chinese market.

His success and international recognition enabled him to introduce a women’s fashion line in 2019.

With a distinct Eastern skill set, Ziggy seamlessly merges elements from the vast traditional heritage of his homeland with the influences and rhythms of the Western world. This syncretism encompasses the importation of the finest European and Japanese textiles, their reassembly using ancient local manufacturing techniques, and stylistic interpretations continually influenced by the world of visual arts, the many countries he has visited, and a particular emphasis on the simple and industrious daily life.

Ziggy Chen fuses these diverse influences and knowledge while guided by a concept of comfort and a pronounced preference for natural fibers, including silk, cotton, wool, and cashmere. His artistic vision incorporates asymmetries and decorative details, skillfully harmonized through his tailoring expertise and the chromatic sensitivity derived from the selected fibers for each creation.

 

Credits:

Stylist: Sari Milan
Photography: Cezara Schiopu
Text: Soili Milan

Collaborations: Centro Ottico – Gruppo GREEN VISION

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Eco-fashion-designer of Italian-Austrian origin, Agostina Zwilling is an artist who investigates processes, scenarios, methodologies and best practices in design.

Using the nunofelt technique, she creates works ranging from interior design (fibre walls, paintings, carpets, tapestries etc.) to clothing.

Shapes and colours are moulded by hand, through a slow process that goes from massaging silk, wool, cashmere, linen, hemp, beech, etc., to choosing the plants, flowers and roots that make up the chromatic bases.

Each garment is a unique work, an actual size development is impossible, because the finishes become unrepeatable and the manipulation generates new nuances and details each time. Even the idea of a definitively finished work is inconceivable. The fibres move, change with time, depending on the wearer’s use and silhouette.

Nunofelt is dynamic by nature and, in Zwilling’s work, lends itself to a correspondence with the concept of the ‘open work’, understood as an artwork.

whose aesthetic, formal or material identity is not defined once and for all, but is subject to factors of variability that make it, to a greater or lesser extent, always different. (Cit. Umberto Eco)

But it is also open in its possibility of being interpreted in ways that vary according to the sensitivity and emotions of those who encounter it.

Zwilling’s is not a clothing line, but represents a true philosophy of life that aggregates and connects training, creativity, sustainable supply chains, ethical and aesthetic awareness, according to an idea that weaving is a gesture that intersects human and social networks with the final product, without interruptions, as a responsible and circular action, in harmonious and conscious tension within a flow that smacks of art, anthropology, ecology, and in general of culture and beauty.

On the ivomilan.com you can discover the Zwilling private collection for autumn/winter 2023-24.

Agostina Zwilling is the founder of the Italian Felt Academy. The school is located in Verona town, Italy. For more information and contacts, you can visit the Italianfeltacademy.it

Below, a photographic tour in the experimental processes that characterize the work of the designer (the material is provided by Zwilling herself and all rights are reserved)

Agostina Zwilling eco felt designer by vocation.

Her world does not contemplate needles and scissors. Agostina does not sew: she unites. Agostina does not produce: she creates.

Her world does not contemplate needles and scissors. It winds and unwinds around a thread that is not just raw material, but also a relationship.It is the thread that ties different sensibilities, perceptions and intuitions together, making them into one story bursting with many differences. It is the experience of a common “feeling”. Agostina does not sew: she unites. Agostina does not produce: she creates. She loves to put together what has been damaged. Soothing, warming, wrapping. Even a tear is useful to her purpose: it is breaking the rule, the subversion of order in favour not of dis-order, but of Harmony. Her prime preoccupation (which we can identify with) is to propose a new “perception” of the world.

Agostina Zwilling, a felt-fashion-artist committed to spreading the ancient art of felt making in modern couture, is the founder of the Italian Felt Academy. The school was situated in Verona, Italy. For more information, visit  www.italianfeltacademy.it

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We don’t have half-seasons anymore!

This popular saying has never been as real and true to its meaning. After two months of torrential rainfalls and winter temperatures, suddenly, summer is here.

During this period, it’s hard to choose what to wear, not to feel cold or suffer from the heat throughout the day. Incidentally, due to the difficulty of finding raw materials, the deliveries of the goods were delayed, which made the selection of the stores inconsistent and incoherent with the weights of the fabrics suitable during this season. Even making our catalog took a long time because we had to wait for the seasonal selection to arrive.

Now that we’ve finally finished this task, we can offer original combinations: the periodical Mix-and-Match, where we combine the garments on our catalog in fresh and alternative ways.

Here we are with Lucia, our model, outside of the static frame of our website, on the streets of Padua, near our store, combining garments and brands to discover new dimensions, chromatic palettes, and adaptability to contexts and formal or informal situations.

Noir Kei Ninomiya realized this skirt with the typical formal exuberance of the Japanese school. Its central theme is not the feminine silhouette but its narrative potential, which reveals multiple interpretations: from the pronounced femininity with the tapered gilet in washed linen and the fitted tube top in elastic silk froissé by Marc Le Bihan

… to a more relaxed everyday expression with the oversized sweater by Album di Famiglia

… or a sophisticated and uncommon ensemble with the sartorial jacket, hand finished, in linen and cotton gauze by Archivio JM Ribot.

With a different gaze, we can match this blueish gilet/shirt in washed linen by Forme d’Expression with this wide trousers in tubular knit made of linen and cotton by Archivio JM Ribot.

Ultimately we close this first June Mix and Match with a made-in-Italy outfit with this paint−like silk jacket printed bt the historic company Fissore, the neutral colors of the sage shirt by Album di Famiglia and the skirt made of a light linen, cashmere, and silk knit by Boboutic.

The bags are made in Italy by Amine and Numero 10, while the shoes are the Marisa’s by Trippen for Ivo Milan.

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The first change of temperatures allows us to finally experience the autumn season even outside of the online dimension ‘catalogue‘ and of the daily spaces of the store.

Now you can place the garments within the colors and atmospheres of the period, imagining them in their potential and transversal recombinations. Our tutor Sari, on a Sunday in November, leads us into passionate mix and match where you can discover, from new perspectives, different items of the seasonal assortment.

The fantastic Italian cashmere F-Cashmere – i.e. Fissore, historic brand of the most noble yarn – with different color blocks and surprisingly soft hand, accompanies a wide, rustic skirt in English Donegal by Ricorrrobe, Anglo-Japanese new-entry. They close the ensemble: a knitted hat made of acrylic, nylon and mohair by Chisaki – directly from Japan – and one of the nap Lak leather bags of the cheerful South Tyrolean Maison, Zilla.

 

And one more, the interpretation of Noir – Kei Ninomiya collection, the most classic winter, eternal heavy knit with braids and Lapp workmanship in a piece of more feminine portability, thanks to a wide development of the sleeves, of a complex high neck/hood and ideal proportions for voluminous skirts, such as that in waxed cotton tartan always proposed by Ricorrrobe. A cool polar hat, all moldable and the revisitation of the typical historical aviator jacket, squeezed and resumed with daring tailoring seams, by Junya Watanabe, celebrate a coming winter of international evocative recognizability.

To close our appointment, a mix and match that mixes together a unique piece of the Nuno-felt designer by Emanuela Rovida, in organic merino wool and silk, handmade and fused with painterly skills from natural colors of shrubs and territorial plants, completely reversible and wearable front and back, seamless, combined with a skirt by Marc Le Bihan, from the refined fabric of gauze and boiled wool, worked together with three-dimensional bubbles. To cover the exceptional quality of the garments, a Forme d’Expression coat with a daily taste, comfortable, in a mélange jersey with a vibrant and intense blue, reverberated by the dazzling glitter of a metallic leather briefcase.

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