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   IVO MILAN – Radical Fashion Blog

Photo by http://www.yohjiyamamoto.co.jp/ys/

The vast assortment that characterizes Y’s, the line with which Yohji Yamamoto began in 1977, is now presented in two different moments of the year and also subdivided, without any theoretical fracture, in pre-collection and collection.

We have the pleasure to show you, with our customary video, the Spring/Summer 2017 in its original setting, the Rue Saint Martin showroom in Paris, which assembles the two phases in an easily recognizable stylistic continuum for those familiar with the famous Japanese Maison.

Frequent asymmetries and overlays, hospitable volumes as complex as possible are some of the most recurring codes. The collection with which Yohji expresses his everyday life interpretation reserves, however, minor immediacy merits. The use of color, for example, even if it is a small polka dot, a melange note or apparently a print, is always accompanied by in-depth collaborations between textile exceptionalities and that reservoir of remote traditions represented by unique local dyers, the latest depository of ancient knowledge, involved not only to give the public rare aesthetic suggestions but also to keep that precious handicraft heritage alive.

In the extraordinary combination of modernity and tradition, can be admire indefinable shades of gray on flamed linen, irregular vertical shades created by the morphology of wooden boards on which tencel and cotton cloths are laid, or in the linen, for stretching the chromatic blends that will then be absorbed and altered by the wood base. Or again in the casual paths of the salt lying on the rayon, powered by manual punctures to favor its absorption, and then distributed not by methodical human action but by the whimsical wind direction in a natural and abstract design reflected by shadows and cosmic light spots.

It is impossible to narrate all the knowledge accumulated in a line, Y’s, which, with grace and obstinacy, in the formal balances of each chapter, in the wisdom of fit, insists on respecting the contexts, seasons and complexity of contemporary living.

Find online all collections of Y’s Yohji Yamamoto

 

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Daniela Gregis Spring/Summer 2017 full fashion show - Ivo Milan

See the exclusive video of Daniela Gregis fashion show

 

On the pleasant shore of the French Riviera, about half way between Marseilles and the Italian border, stands a large, proud, rose-colored hotel. Deferential palms cool its flushed façade, and before it stretches a short dazzling beach. Lately it has become a summer resort of notable and fashionable people [...]

The famous incipit of Tender is the Night, the masterpiece of Francis Scott Fitzgerald, as the ideal setting to place the Spring/Summer 2017 Daniela Gregis collection.

Impossible not to let yourself  be carried by the chromatic intensity of the painted fibers and by the relaxed release of holiday volumes in the aristocratic and sensual atmospheres of the noble French coast, described with literal photographic skills by the great American author. A gentle and carefree time/period, despite the inspiration from the spontaneous and playful world of childhood of the Bergamask designer, it remembers the light and thoughtless rhythms of an cultivated and demanding elite, payment of a ubiquitous and widespread beauty.

The polka dots are blurred, in the contours and in the shades, reclining on a pleasant breeze on the fleeting silk of crêpe de chine. The unforgettable landscape of an exclusive ‘room with view’ distractedly absorbed in the cedar pastel notes of the voile. The voluptuous luxuriance of the Mediterranean blemish, intercepted in the vigorous linen coating, returned to the dazzling and hallucinating visual impressions of the orange ramages, stained with blue and green. If certain sewed collars, the rigid expression of some of the stiffed models, the reassuring and calm pastel pink, may become vaguely bon-ton, with their chaotic realization, with the choice of humble or washed and wrinkled fabrics, to the contrary, they grab that unconventional liberty, somehow mischievous and rebellious, typical of a sheltered and indulgent prosperity.

Daniela Gregis interprets and translates the most powerful suggestions of the season, reminds us its promises, suggests its warmth and, even before it arrives, invites us to live it fully, to make it memorable!

 

Find online all collections of Daniela Gregis

Salva

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Met - Exhibition Comme des Garçons

It has finally started the exhibition that the Costume Institute of the Metropolitan Museum of New York, the most important American institution in cultural context of fashion and costume, has dedicated to the work of the designer Rei Kawakubo, with Comme des Garçons.

For the second time in its history, MET reserves its space for a living creator (previously in 1983 with Yves Saint Laurent) and Art of the In-Between, inaugurated last 4 of May, has already been called ‘epochal’ for the deepness of the methodological analysis adopted.

“I have always pursued a way of thinking about design by denying established values, conventions, and everything that is generally accepted as a norm. I express myself through the concepts of fusion, imbalance, incompleteness, elimination, and the absence of an intent” has declared the designer (quote from Style Magazine n° 5 of May 2017)

An atypical operating method, mostly after placing it in the conforming and homologous context of the fashion system, governed, for its own survival, by the tendencies that, in order to be assimilated, must be made with easily comprehensible stylistic codes.

On the opposite, the Japanese designer has always created collections that needed to be metabolized and processed over long periods of time, encouraging personal and, most of all, not univocal interpretations. Immediate approval, for Rei Kawakubo, is just a reflection and confirmation of a failed job, as it is too simple.

 

Rei Kawakubo - Comme des Garçons

photo by Style Magazine

 

And again, in another famous statement:

“I create clothes for women who are not influenced by the opinion of their husbands”
emerges a significant distance from a way of understanding fashion as a practice to valorize two cardinal elements: the anatomy of the body and, no less important, the social status.

Rei Kawakubo dismantled, literally, these two goals. With her, the dress becomes, more than ever, an appendage of the thought and personality of the wearer, a possible element of a hypothetical philosophical dialogue between the self and the rest of the world. So it is no longer the way of showing curves and economic resources, but a powerful means of communication, expression and misguidance, an aesthetic exercise in all aspects, an extension of its own culture, creativity and reflexive complexity. The dress withdraws its seasonal recognition, acquiring an absolute timelessness. For the history of the costume, this is a revolution. Bold volumes, systematic asymmetries, stratifications, unfinished fraying, cuts and gashes in the most unexpected points, only some of the Comme des Garçons language traits.

 

The exhibition, curated by Andrew Bolton, staged 150 dresses organized in several thematic sections:

Fashion/Anti-Fashion
Self/Other
Design/Non Design
Model/Multiple
Then/Now
High/Low
Object/Subject
Clothes/Non Clothes

basically, the same antinomies posed by Rei Kawakubo in the series of different collections.

It is not overly affirmed that anyone who will not be able to go by September 4th at the MET to visit the magnificent show, besides the catalog available on the museum’s website, one can reasemble parts of the designer’s creative path with the help of our special room, online and live , in the Padua store.

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Scopri tutta la selezione online di Comme des Garçons nel nostro sito:

http://www.ivomilan.com/en/Tutte_le_collezioni-0/All-0/COMME_DES_GARCONS-48/e-shop.htm

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Junya Watanabe S/S Collection 2017

We always underlined the Junya Watanabe’s peculiar interpretative ability in establishing, in the form of dress, the predominant stresses of our time. Post-modern, cyber-punk, tailor-philosopher of an age crossed by very fast transformations, where, from collection to collection, plastics and brand new materials, parts of abandoned industrial landscapes, occurred, to give shape to his personal metabolization and to his interpretation of the contemporaneity.

With the Spring / Summer 2017 is the fierce spirit of the Japanese designer, produced by Comme des Garçons Maison, to manifest itself in the sunny morning walkway of Palais du Tokyo. Deafening hard-rock music accompanies the proud and hurried pace of bewildering metropolitan warriors, evidently intolerant towards an increasingly thorny and demanding present, exceedingly conformist.

To reinforce the rhythm are the classical decorative elements of the punk movement: crests and other disheveled and colorful hairstyles, tattered leggings and hyper-skimpy mini-skirts.

Junya Watanabe S/S Collection 2017

Photo by Vogue

Junya Watanabe S/S Collection 2017

Photo by Vogue

Junya Watanabe S/S Collection 2017

Photo by Vogue

But the Watanabe quat is not slavish and nostalgic, but provocative and pungent. The cue becomes an opportunity to continue with origami exercises, the textiles module is pyramidal, the threatening metal edges of studs and piercings gain lightness and grace in organza processing, up to the extremes such as a stellar westcoat, not by chance pale pink , returning in serious synthetic leather bags and accessories.

Junya Watanabe S/S Collection 2017

The oscillation between the opposite poles: serious and mild, warlike and docile, composes and articulates the collection. On one side the impetus and vigor of oversize volumes, such as sweatshirts, parca and t-shirt and on the other side the feminine silhouette clearly defined by unexpected draperies, generated by semi-invisible seams, floral bouquet and more accommodating fabrics, like organza and georgette.

Junya Watanabe S/S Collection 2017

Junya Watanabe S/S Collection 2017

Junya Watanabe S/S Collection 2017

Against all odds and reference, the two extremes coexist in a new aesthetic balance, where the mutual control and enhancement generates the most unexpected and unlikely punk expression, poetry!

Junya Watanabe S/S Collection 2017

Junya Watanabe S/S Collection 2017

Find more regarding IVO MILAN Radical Fashion‘s choice directly from Place Vendôme – Paris show-room:

 

Junya Watanabe S/S Collection 2017

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Comme des Garçons Spring/Summer 2017

While it is now imminent the exhibition at the Metropolitan Museum of Art Costume Institute in New York, dedicated to the work of  Rei Kawakubo’s – Comme des Garçons and curated by Andrew Bolton (it will be inaugurate on 4th of May), the famous online magazine, AnOther, reveals in a long article the showroom of the well know Japanese Maison, the anti-fashion temple par excellence.

Another Mag - Rei Kawakubo show-room
Photo by AnOtherMag

A good cue for leading you inside with our video shooting of the Spring/Summer of 2017. Rare outstanding material, a concession obtained with a long collaboration and with a peculiar organization of the store activity, with preparation, archival and historical memory and, above all, with an approach to new proposals of recipients otherwise poorly assisted by scarce communication on this kind of clothing.

 

Comme des Garçons Spring/Summer 2017 show-room video

For some years now Rei Kawakubo uses the catwalk as the sheet music upon which composes the ceremony of her collections. No more suggestions on what to wear during the season, but philosophical insights translated into highly complex textile forms, from which to draw clues on fabrics and weights that will make up the seasonal assortment. The designer explores and then wraps the spirit of time presenting it to a tense audience with the sacrifice of an increasingly less accessible and intelligible comprehension but, in its abstract distance, more and more poetic and theatrical.

Comme des Garçons S/S 2017 defilé

Comme des Garçons Spring/Summer 2017 defilé/Crash

Photo by Crash

In the Place Vendôme space, the bulky shapes resize, becoming viable clothing, which does not deny the feminine silhouette with the excesses promised in the fashion show. The camouflage is wearable in the asymmetries of jackets and t-shirts. The disturbing paddings for the summer translate into irregular folds, stylistic solutions that enhance the movement of the garments or decorative elements for an easier use and composition.

 

The selection takes place in a space stolen to huge sequenced installations, works first withheld from scene, then immersed in the soundtrack which, looped for days, it evokes and reinforces the suggestions of the recent stage show.

Comme des Garçons camouflage dress S/S 2017

Comme des Garçons camouflage jacket S/S 2017

Comme des Garçons cotton light dress S/S 2017

Comme des Garçons polyester dress S/S 2017

Comme des Garçons padre gilet S/S 2017

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