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Autumnal fogs, suspended mists, muddy skies, burnished colors, the dried fruits of winter and the woody stumps, ardent in the domestic intimacy of the fireplace. And again the time, spent between the familiar sounds of youth, absorbed in first and instinctive drawings, and the loom, the knit, the crocheting. Collected atmospheres, cyclical and slow, placid dimensions, wondering in the feverish sound of the daily metropolitan life.

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daniela-gregis-fw-2017-2018-dress-detail

Always attributive to the most striking seasonal atmospheres, Daniela Gregis‘s work accompanies the audience in a dive, both visual and sensible, into the prevailing tones of her Fall/Winter. It is not hard to imagine the winter territories of northern Italy in the crumpled gray of washed cotton, or in the charcoal marks of the ruffle brushstrokes of crêpe. Views of pale skies appear in the cashmere, melange or checked, and that recurring brown of local shrubs comes back in warm beige shades or more singed in the backgrounds of childish sketches.

The designer from Bergamo does not cultivate melancholic perceptions of this long season, it revives it instead, with important lengths of clothes and chromatic explosions of accessories,

daniela-gregis-fw-2017-2018-bag-detail-1

daniela-gregis-fw-2017-2018-bag-detail

a playful and aristocratic vision of winter, of the city time, of work and of urban itineraries par excellence. Staggered textiles overwhelm the weather, the melancholy and apathy, invite to mix and recombine, to cultivate the well composed and cured hilarity of good living…

A closer look at Daniela Gregis Fall/Winter 2017-’18 fashion show directly from the Oratorio della Passione – Basilica di Sant’Ambrogio, Milano:video-youtube-daniela-gregis-blog

Find online the new Daniela Gregis Collection

 

 

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Photo by Pascal Maucuit

Photo by Pascal Maucuit

On a rainy Saturday morning in Paris, with the town still sleeping, we run to the venue hosting the parade of Junya Watanabe: the faculty of pharmacology at Rue de l’Observatoire, exactly at the opposite end of the metro stop to which we have to go in the evening also for Comme des Garçons.

The rain, the time and the hurry to look for the fastest way to reach our destination do not favor the good humor, until, once into the mighty faculty salon, we are not awakened by a loud rock. The rhythm spurs for attention, the fierce gait of the models drags the present into an inevitable, and personal, reflection on fashion, on its utility or emptiness, and above all, it generates a real, widespread and more than ever palpable perception of uncontrollable enthusiasm.

Junya Watanabe Fall/Winter 2017-2018

As if the world suddenly recapture each potential, the possible silhouettes projected on Junya Watanabe‘s future Fall/Winter incite that desire for change that is the vulnus itself of fashion and the radicalism with which the Japanese designer staggers it is thrilling.

Faithful to his own ‘cyber’ vision of contemporaneity, Watanabe assembles materials with his typical origami form, which on this occasion we can recognize in the circle: calf hair, black leather, leopard spots, all strictly in synthetic leather, studs and pailletes re-compose patch-works of cultures and epochs of costume history of the most experimental forms. Excess is the guiding thread of deformed decorative elements, which not only outline unusual aesthetics, but also become part of and modify the human physical structure. Caps like sculptures, multicolored textile wigs, lacking any romantic poetics and built to defend any hypothetical attack, tunics that amplify the circularity of the chakras, coats shaped around the feminine figure with asymmetrical spheres, possible ultra-modern armors against the advancement of the creative nothing.

Junya Watanabe Fall/Winter 2017-2018

Junya Watanabe Fall/Winter 2017-2018

Junya Watanabe Fall/Winter 2017-2018

Junya Watanabe Fall/Winter 2017-2018

Junya Watanabe Fall/Winter 2017-2018

Junya Watanabe Fall/Winter 2017-2018

But the excess is finally cleaned, made accessible in the showroom choices, revealing how far it can go and how it can be traced back to the hectic daily life but still it remains a visionary exercise of pure and extraordinary contemporary textile art.

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Zucca Fall/Winter 2017-2018 detail

Around the brand Zucca a private audience is joined together, happily surprised whenever they come in the store and find themselves immerse in such uncommon assortment in European boutiques.

Always a Japanese production, backed by the A-Net group, affiliated with Maison Miyake that also has Tsumori Chisato and Plantation, Zucca can brag with its own path, by now for more than ten years, that testifies a consolidated maturity.

Cleaned by some decorative elements, perhaps a bit too Japanese, it is interesting to notice the skill with which details and particulars are introduced to enliven the quotidian, the dimension in which Zucca is best placed. His design is difficulty applied on big occasions, but instead interprets everyday life with careful diagonal seams, small asymmetries and prints that, together with the comfortable volumes and the use of color, allows the usage in any moment of the day without unpleasant slippages in the banal or, even worse, in the slovenliness. Zucca respects the even more hasty and concrete rhythms, speeds up the wardrobe, does not engage with exorbitant costs and cultivates discreet aesthetics, appreciated when they are so easily put on.

Zucca Fall/Winter 2017-2018

Zucca Fall/Winter 2017-2018

Zucca Fall/Winter 2017-2018

Zucca Fall/Winter 2017-2018

A tour around our Fall/Winter 2017-2018 selection, following the few minutes of our footage from the Paris showroom, can help one imagine herself inside heavy coats, from technical padded jackets to long coats in organic cotton, knitwear in its various weights, to printed dresses or decorated with georgette for the occasions that requires more femininity.

Zucca show-room

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Before deepening the contents of the different collections for next Fall/Winter 2017-’18, we expect that the deliveries make us understand the full development of the Season. However, it’s already possible to immerse us in the Y’s Yohji Yamamoto‘s fiber shadows or in the brush strokes’ blocks of the gauzes and in the Daniela Gregis‘ cashmere made by the loom, or in the experimental tartan and in the synthetic leather of Junya Watanabe, with the muffled and futuristic padding by Comme Des Garçons.

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Y'S-Yohji-Yamamoto-F_W-2017-'18-detail.JPG

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Comme-des-Garçons-F_W-2017-'18-detail

A very close tour dedicated to who, in the middle of this August, want to be distracted by a dive to the sea or a walk in the mountains…

 

Find online the new collection on our website

 

 

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Daniela Gregis F/W 2017-'18

Like every year, when the summer becomes more torrid and the cities become open spaces kissed by the lion sun, silent and suspended in the vacancy leave of its inhabitants, the life of the shop intensifies with an unstoppable frenzy from winter deliveries.

Contrary to the outdoor sunny quietness, the internal rhythm is marked by the recurrence of well-established practices: opening the boxes, controlling and settling, thinking about the outfits and of we go with full-frame shooting. Punctual as always, indifferent to every reasonable and human contrast between what is happening inside and the outside immobility, between those who still work and those who leave for holidays, re-emerges the sentiment of sentiments: the enthusiasm!

Junya Watanabe F/W 2017-'18

Junya Watanabe F/W 2017-'18

Daniela Gregis F/W 2017-'18

Seing reappear, after months that have passed, the choices made during the shopping campaign, ponder upon serviceable items and marvel at those that will soon be celebrated in contemporary art museums, challenging the sultriness by putting on wool and cashmere, fabrics of the great cold, with terrible sandals on…

Daniela Gregis New Arrivals

 Comme des Garçons F/W 2017-'18

A game that repeats season after season, which reincarnates and affirms wonder and amazement, invites you to renew yourself, change your skin or simply change your dress!

Daniela Gregis F/W 2017-'18

Daniela Gregis F/W 2017-'18

Daniela Gregis F/W 2017-'18

Daniela Gregis F/W 2017-'18

Y'S Yohji Yamamoto F/W 2017-'18

Find online the new arrivals: http://www.ivomilan.com/en/nuove_collezioni-1/e-shop.htm

 

 

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