www.ivomilan.it

   IVO MILAN – Radical Fashion Blog

Junya Watanabe S/S Collection 2017

We always underlined the Junya Watanabe’s peculiar interpretative ability in establishing, in the form of dress, the predominant stresses of our time. Post-modern, cyber-punk, tailor-philosopher of an age crossed by very fast transformations, where, from collection to collection, plastics and brand new materials, parts of abandoned industrial landscapes, occurred, to give shape to his personal metabolization and to his interpretation of the contemporaneity.

With the Spring / Summer 2017 is the fierce spirit of the Japanese designer, produced by Comme des Garçons Maison, to manifest itself in the sunny morning walkway of Palais du Tokyo. Deafening hard-rock music accompanies the proud and hurried pace of bewildering metropolitan warriors, evidently intolerant towards an increasingly thorny and demanding present, exceedingly conformist.

To reinforce the rhythm are the classical decorative elements of the punk movement: crests and other disheveled and colorful hairstyles, tattered leggings and hyper-skimpy mini-skirts.

Junya Watanabe S/S Collection 2017

Photo by Vogue

Junya Watanabe S/S Collection 2017

Photo by Vogue

Junya Watanabe S/S Collection 2017

Photo by Vogue

But the Watanabe quat is not slavish and nostalgic, but provocative and pungent. The cue becomes an opportunity to continue with origami exercises, the textiles module is pyramidal, the threatening metal edges of studs and piercings gain lightness and grace in organza processing, up to the extremes such as a stellar westcoat, not by chance pale pink , returning in serious synthetic leather bags and accessories.

Junya Watanabe S/S Collection 2017

The oscillation between the opposite poles: serious and mild, warlike and docile, composes and articulates the collection. On one side the impetus and vigor of oversize volumes, such as sweatshirts, parca and t-shirt and on the other side the feminine silhouette clearly defined by unexpected draperies, generated by semi-invisible seams, floral bouquet and more accommodating fabrics, like organza and georgette.

Junya Watanabe S/S Collection 2017

Junya Watanabe S/S Collection 2017

Junya Watanabe S/S Collection 2017

Against all odds and reference, the two extremes coexist in a new aesthetic balance, where the mutual control and enhancement generates the most unexpected and unlikely punk expression, poetry!

Junya Watanabe S/S Collection 2017

Junya Watanabe S/S Collection 2017

Find more regarding IVO MILAN Radical Fashion‘s choice directly from Place Vendôme – Paris show-room:

 

Junya Watanabe S/S Collection 2017

Read More

Comme des Garçons Spring/Summer 2017

While it is now imminent the exhibition at the Metropolitan Museum of Art Costume Institute in New York, dedicated to the work of  Rei Kawakubo’s – Comme des Garçons and curated by Andrew Bolton (it will be inaugurate on 4th of May), the famous online magazine, AnOther, reveals in a long article the showroom of the well know Japanese Maison, the anti-fashion temple par excellence.

Another Mag - Rei Kawakubo show-room
Photo by AnOtherMag

A good cue for leading you inside with our video shooting of the Spring/Summer of 2017. Rare outstanding material, a concession obtained with a long collaboration and with a peculiar organization of the store activity, with preparation, archival and historical memory and, above all, with an approach to new proposals of recipients otherwise poorly assisted by scarce communication on this kind of clothing.

 

Comme des Garçons Spring/Summer 2017 show-room video

For some years now Rei Kawakubo uses the catwalk as the sheet music upon which composes the ceremony of her collections. No more suggestions on what to wear during the season, but philosophical insights translated into highly complex textile forms, from which to draw clues on fabrics and weights that will make up the seasonal assortment. The designer explores and then wraps the spirit of time presenting it to a tense audience with the sacrifice of an increasingly less accessible and intelligible comprehension but, in its abstract distance, more and more poetic and theatrical.

Comme des Garçons S/S 2017 defilé

Comme des Garçons Spring/Summer 2017 defilé/Crash

Photo by Crash

In the Place Vendôme space, the bulky shapes resize, becoming viable clothing, which does not deny the feminine silhouette with the excesses promised in the fashion show. The camouflage is wearable in the asymmetries of jackets and t-shirts. The disturbing paddings for the summer translate into irregular folds, stylistic solutions that enhance the movement of the garments or decorative elements for an easier use and composition.

 

The selection takes place in a space stolen to huge sequenced installations, works first withheld from scene, then immersed in the soundtrack which, looped for days, it evokes and reinforces the suggestions of the recent stage show.

Comme des Garçons camouflage dress S/S 2017

Comme des Garçons camouflage jacket S/S 2017

Comme des Garçons cotton light dress S/S 2017

Comme des Garçons polyester dress S/S 2017

Comme des Garçons padre gilet S/S 2017

Read More

Issey Miyake Inc.

Among the uninitiated, even today the name of the most futuristic Maison of the prêt-à-porter is associated with a fragrance, Eau d’Issey.

An unexplained and paradoxical binomial if we enter in the huge and hyper-technological textile production which, for nearly half a century, has identified the Issey Miyake brand. Not only the company is the owner of several other brands, including Pleats Please, BaoBao, Cauliflower, 1 3 2.5, etc., but mostly remains in the spotlight of the largest contemporary art museums and in many of the most prestigious magazines and publications of art, architecture and design.

Issey Miyake Cartier Fondation

 

The reasons for such authoritative and frequent awards are undoubtedly in the extension of the boundaries that normally establishes the matter of the work, the fabric, turning it into plastic fiber par excellence, on which to intervene with all the complexity and ideational freedom of creating, responding also to very simple starting questions: agility of movement, comfort and of course, aesthetics.

If the expression that best frames the Miyake Design Studio work, a laboratory that concentrates engineering and informatics geniality, is the plissé, today you must dig into its various realizations, in its constant connection between form and color. On one side we have the ‘steam-stretch’ method that, simplifying, uses steam heat to emphasis the fold, often recognizable by spiral swirls that cover the garment, whether it is a dress, jacket or shirt. On the other hand, we have the last and most complex ‘baked stretch’ method, where the object of formal definition of the finished object occurs through an ingenious combination of pigments laid on the polyester, entering then in special ovens, following the three-dimensional development of the final article through an yeasting phenomenon.

The synthesis of these experiments can seem easy to understand if one only ignores that, in both cases, the teams work on garments that have already been manufactured and which will be in their final and definitive shape after undergoing the textile treatment.

The idea that the clothing can become artistic occasions to all intents and purposes and its demonstration in the abstractions concretized in Issey Miyake products, explain the interest of the specialized press towards the Maison, the honor of being exhibited in major contemporary art galleries and, probably, the opposite unpreparedness of the general public, alien to all that the media does not strongly advertise to make it simple and recognizable.

Issey Miyake Exhibition at the National Art Center in Tokyo

The images below show examples of both steam stretch and baked stretch methods. Both, having as basic material the polyester, are suitable to be worn both in winter and in summer, in the first case by layering, in the second, of course, maintaining the starting nudity.

But you can observe other poetic manifestations of the Maison in the meshes, with the cosmos pattern hand-dyed and then transferred to the silk-effect plissé, or in the extraordinary cotton and polyester fresco overcoat, where the smooth canvas meets in continuity the elastic folds of the pleated sides, that have the purpose of giving greater movement of the torso and arms.

The weak differentiation between autumn/winter and spring/summer is a further demonstration of the extreme functionality and usability of this clothing, thought-out to solve the most common problems: being on the road, in different weather conditions; the ease in cleaning; the impossibility of ironing; the long use in one day, punctuated from the daily routine in the morning to the evening times of greater social exchange.

Issey Miyake Fall-Winter Collection 2016-17

Issey Miyake Fall-Winter Collection 2016-17

Issey Miyake Fall-Winter Collection 2016-17

Issey Miyake Fall-Winter Collection 2016-17

Issey Miyake Fall/Winter Collection 2016-17

Issey Miyake Fall-Winter Collection 2016-17

 

Find online the Issey Miyake Collection on our website:

http://www.ivomilan.com/en/Tutte_le_collezioni-0/All-0/ISSEY_MIYAKE-47/e-shop.htm

Read More

Tracking shots, views and zooms … suggestions for Christmas gifts, but also for reviewing the matches of the season in his approach to the winter solstice!

Wide sweater Daniela Gregis in stockinette stitch cashmere

Calf-length A punto B skirt in bicolor soft wool and linen cloth

Large Daniela Gregis cashmere gauze scarf with vertical colour contrast blocks

‘Classic Trippen’ MASCHA ankle boot in soft cowhide leather

Long Plantation – Tokyo overcoat cupro lined wool chevron

Hip-length Yohji Yamamoto sweater in yak cloth

Long and asymmetrical Y’S Yohji Yamamoto cotton skirt in floral tapestry knit

Hat Altalen felt 100% wool

LILA ankle boot Trippen in smooth cowhide leather

Knee-length Forme D’Expression coat in cotton, wool, nylon and polyamide crêpe with raw cut fringed extremities

Calf-length Aodress – Japan dress in wool gauze with sewed squares of different shades of color and dimensions

Hat Altalen felt 100% wool

Large knitted Daniela Gregis wool scarf, brushed wool on one side and plain knit on the other

‘Classic Trippen’ MASCHA ankle boot in soft cowhide leather

Knee-length padded Daniela Gregis coat in wool crêpe with the inner side in cashmere muslin

Dungarees Comme des Garçons dress in polyester, rayon, acrylic and nylon cloth worked with floral tapestry

Short A punto B sweater in cashmere cloth

SLOW Trippen ankle boot in smooth matt cowhide leather

 

…and whether it’s a gift or a personal concession to finally see yourselves different, your choices will still be wrapped in the handcrafted treasure chests of HeartBox.

 

Read More

Plantation coat fall/winter 2016-17

Behind the apparent simplicity of a line focused on the realization of outerwear, lies the story of a decidedly visionary project, whose debut dates back to 1981, when Issey Miyake launched the brand with the evocative name: Plantation.

It is necessary to empathize with a time when the prêt-à-porter was ruled by trends that emphasized the dominant values of the time: power, career, luxury and the extreme celebration of female physical beauty. Broad shoulders, high heels, tights and sequins, simplifying a lot, were nothing more than aesthetic symbols of a value system that through the dress, not only represented himself, but at the same time it was consolidated.

In the middle of success and consent that these languages, so effervescent in directing the wishes of the general public, obtained, Issey Miyake, among many other experiences that already had, founded the line that still bears the name of birth.

The ideational force of the collection lays in the radical distance from what was happening in the fashion world.Plantation, in fact, was born with opposing ambitions: to completely ignore the identifying and transgressive function of the garment, structuring itself around very specific values, such as comfort and usability in everyday life with little assertive and recognizable forms, dressing people with predominantly craft and natural materials, with a humble appearance, wool for winter, linen and cotton for summer. It was a very interesting and long lasting project, suspended, only for the extreme experimental liveliness of the Miyake Design Studio and the alternation of new creative directors, between the late nineties and the early 2000s.

Plantation Issey Miyake

With the 2016-2017 Autumn/Winter collection is the group A-Net, affiliated to Maison Miyake and who contains also Zucca and Tsumori Chisato brands, to revive the project in Europe. Much awaited among lovers, Plantation returns, in times in some ways analogous to those of its creation, with its ‘formal modernity’, defined by multiple linear and clean cuts compared to the creative acrobatics of the Japanese school, sensitive to textile warmth and to stand discreetly in everyday life. The wisdom of the brand can be found in a decidedly practical solutions: the reversibility of quilts made of the typical smooth canvas on one side and the other in the most opaque and warm coat appearance; enveloping hoods; significant collars, but that can always be placed at will; double-breasted crew-necks that facilitate and claim the winter complement to excellence, the scarf, to integrate and support of a simplicity defended with great determination.

Plantation invites you to a comfortable everyday life and, being an outwear for long use, among its objectives, there is also a considerable care not to exceed with a design too intrusive to tire in the next season.

Plantation Issey Miyake

Plantation Issey Miyake

Plantation Issey Miyake

Plantation Issey Miyake

Plantation Issey Miyake

Plantation Issey Miyake

Find the Plantation collection online on our website:

www.ivomilan.com/en/nuove_collezioni-1/All-0/PLANTATION_Tokyo-327/e-shop.htm

Read More