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Met - Exhibition Comme des Garçons

It has finally started the exhibition that the Costume Institute of the Metropolitan Museum of New York, the most important American institution in cultural context of fashion and costume, has dedicated to the work of the designer Rei Kawakubo, with Comme des Garçons.

For the second time in its history, MET reserves its space for a living creator (previously in 1983 with Yves Saint Laurent) and Art of the In-Between, inaugurated last 4 of May, has already been called ‘epochal’ for the deepness of the methodological analysis adopted.

“I have always pursued a way of thinking about design by denying established values, conventions, and everything that is generally accepted as a norm. I express myself through the concepts of fusion, imbalance, incompleteness, elimination, and the absence of an intent” has declared the designer (quote from Style Magazine n° 5 of May 2017)

An atypical operating method, mostly after placing it in the conforming and homologous context of the fashion system, governed, for its own survival, by the tendencies that, in order to be assimilated, must be made with easily comprehensible stylistic codes.

On the opposite, the Japanese designer has always created collections that needed to be metabolized and processed over long periods of time, encouraging personal and, most of all, not univocal interpretations. Immediate approval, for Rei Kawakubo, is just a reflection and confirmation of a failed job, as it is too simple.

 

Rei Kawakubo - Comme des Garçons

photo by Style Magazine

 

And again, in another famous statement:

“I create clothes for women who are not influenced by the opinion of their husbands”
emerges a significant distance from a way of understanding fashion as a practice to valorize two cardinal elements: the anatomy of the body and, no less important, the social status.

Rei Kawakubo dismantled, literally, these two goals. With her, the dress becomes, more than ever, an appendage of the thought and personality of the wearer, a possible element of a hypothetical philosophical dialogue between the self and the rest of the world. So it is no longer the way of showing curves and economic resources, but a powerful means of communication, expression and misguidance, an aesthetic exercise in all aspects, an extension of its own culture, creativity and reflexive complexity. The dress withdraws its seasonal recognition, acquiring an absolute timelessness. For the history of the costume, this is a revolution. Bold volumes, systematic asymmetries, stratifications, unfinished fraying, cuts and gashes in the most unexpected points, only some of the Comme des Garçons language traits.

 

The exhibition, curated by Andrew Bolton, staged 150 dresses organized in several thematic sections:

Fashion/Anti-Fashion
Self/Other
Design/Non Design
Model/Multiple
Then/Now
High/Low
Object/Subject
Clothes/Non Clothes

basically, the same antinomies posed by Rei Kawakubo in the series of different collections.

It is not overly affirmed that anyone who will not be able to go by September 4th at the MET to visit the magnificent show, besides the catalog available on the museum’s website, one can reasemble parts of the designer’s creative path with the help of our special room, online and live , in the Padua store.

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Scopri tutta la selezione online di Comme des Garçons nel nostro sito:

http://www.ivomilan.com/en/Tutte_le_collezioni-0/All-0/COMME_DES_GARCONS-48/e-shop.htm

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Paris, Saturday 5th March 2016, Rue Royal, boutique Issey Miyake.

Reportage Issey Miyake

We couldn’t miss the presentation night of the new book dedicated to the work of Issey Miyake.

Reportage Parigi Issey Miyake

An occasion to visit the beautiful Paris boutique, say hi to the many colleagues present there and of course browsing through the suggestive pictures of the book for the very first time.

Reportage da Parigi Issey Miyake

Vibrant and overwhelming the emotion in assisting a very important acknowledgement for the creative developments of one of the most important contemporary designer and an unmissable chance to bring our most sincere, unrelenting congratulations to the Maison current artistic director, the young Yoshiyuki Miyamae.

Ivo Milan - Issey MiyakeIVO MILAN with Yoshiyuki Miyamae and TESSABIT di Como.

Issey Miyake Shop OnlineShop Online Issey MiyakeIssey Miyake Online

Issey Miyake Shop Online Ivo Milan

Shop Online

More info on Issey Miyake.

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book issey miyake taschen

In the middle of the Paris Fashion Week for the next Autumn/Winter, it should be reported an other very important acknowledgement to the designer who most was able to connect clothing to concepts as innovation, experimentation and research. On Saturday 5th March, at Issey Miyake boutique of Rue Royale in Paris, it will be launched an unpublished monograph dedicated by the Taschen publishing house to the Japanese master and to his prolific and hyper-technologic  Design Miyake Studio, established in the 1970.

A book that, not by chance, is launched almost simultaneously with the exhibition that will be opened on the 16th of March at the National Art Center of Tokyo, completely installed to celebrate the professional history and the cultural contributions introduced by the researches carried out during these years by the researchers team involved in Issey Miyake’s ambitious creative project.

Issey Miyake Taschen Book

book issey miyake taschen

book issue miyake taschen

book issue miyake taschen

book issue miyake taschen

book issue miyake taschenA long, extensive tale of the different steps that have characterised of the well-known polyester pleating, today present in the most prestigious shops in the world with the bran new version called “Baked Stretch”.

baked stretch advertisment

The chromatic and formal possibilities opened by this innovative material manufacturing, so called ‘baked’ as the pleats take their aspects after a heath exposition process very similar to the one of the bread rising, reveal the maturity and the extreme autonomy gained by the excellent collaborators chosen by Issey Miyake, among them it’s not possible to not mention the Maison creative director, the young Yoshiyuki Miyamae.

Baked stretch vimeo

Click here to watch the video.

For those who would not have the chance to participate to the Paris event, nor to go directly to Tokyo, they can anyway lost themselves in the different pages describing the vast and futuristic repertoire of the Japanese designer. In fact the book is already available on the Taschen website and in the next months it would be distributed by the libraries and by the authorized boutiques.

Issey Miyake dress 1.325 shrag SS16

Issey Miyake Top Skirt SS16

Issey Miyake Reversible Top Skirt SS16Reversible top and skirt .

Issey Miyake Top Trousers SS16

Issey Miyake Dress SS16

Issey Miyake Reversible Dress SS16

Reversible dress.

 


 

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Issey, Miyake, Purses, FW16

Vague, already clear and precise or no ideas at all?

 

An high-tech and hyper-radiant BaoBao? An hand-knitted or printed with rollers and airbrushes cashmere? Or hard-to-find and alchemic fragrances? Or, why not, unforgettable multi-layers scarves, warm and ornamental? But also less recognizable accessories for the everyday life or on the contrary guessed marvels to be kept on our side for the best moments…

 

Essentially, even this year we are arrived on time to the period ritual question: What am I giving to…? But it could be even more immediate and self-rewarding: What I wish to gift me…?

 

Believing that, using the words of an illustrious supporter of our online experience,

 

The aesthetic is an important part of the good being, of the gestures and even of the battles…

 

we suggest you a catalogue of ideas and possibilities that, as usual, could be wrapped in the dedicated and exclusive Sari’s packaging, Heart-Box

 

Daniela, Gregis, Jacket, Coat, FW16

Daniela Gregis wide coat in smooth cotton velvet, single-breasted, shirt neck with button, cuff-lenght sleeve, two flap pockets, buttons covered with fabric closure, slits on the cuffs.

Daniela Gregis double wool crêpe jacket with dark ‘storm’ printing, flat lapels with ‘staggered puzzle’ edges, two welt pockets, trapeze line.

Issey, Miyake, Jacket, Steam, Streatch, FW16

Issey Miyake wide jacket in narrow wave steam-stretch pleated polyester with a multicolored optical effect, double-breasted with lapels, two buttons closure, ¾ flared sleeve, asymmetric hem, voluminous on the back.

Un-Namable long and asymmetric skirt in a paper effect polyester fabric, with pleats in different directions, with press buttons.

Andrea, Cortella, Knitwear, AW16

Andrea Cortella asymmetric sweater in stitched Cashwool extra fine Merino wool with rounded neck draped on the shoulder, knitted band at the bottom, on the cuffs and on the neck, straight line.

Daniela Gregis wide trousers in heavy cotton canvas, belt loops with belt, turned-up at the hem, welt pockets on the side and on the back, open flap with elastic band.

Bao, Bao, Issey, Miyake, FW16

Bao Bao Issey Miyake small shoulder bag made of polish PVC and polyurethane plates, adjustable shoulder strap, zip closure, open internal pocket, lined, h 16 cm x l 23 cm.

Bao, Bao, Issey, Miyake, FW, 2015, Tokolom

Classic Bao Bao squared shopper bag made of polish PVC and polyurethane TOKOLO plates with a Rubix cube effect on polyester net, adjustable handles, zip internal pocket, h 34 cm x l 34.

Comme, des, Garçons, Perfumes

Comme, des, Garçons, Perfumes

Comme, des, Garçons, Perfumes


Comme des Garçons perfumes.


Stephen, Jones, Perfum

WISTERIA HYSTERIA Stephen Jones – eau de toilette.

Vivienne, Westwood, Mantero, Scarves

Vivienne Westwood Mantero big scarves in acrylic and wool big thread loom weft with squares pattern, fringes along the edges, l 200 cm x h 55 cm.

Mantero, Vivienne, Westwood, Scarf

Vivienne Westwood big scarf in very light new wool and silk gauze with Union Jack printing, small fringes along the edges, l 132 cm x h 100 cm.

Cauliflower, Issey, Miyake, Scarves, FW16

Issey Miyake Cauliflower wide scarves with zig zag edges in rayon and polyester with a fustian touch, extremities in contrasting colours, l 150 cm x h 40 cm.

Gudrun, Gudrun, Wool, Scarves, AW16

Gudrun & Gudrun large scarf with long fringes in hand-knitted alpaca, multicolour from grey to white at the extremities.

Gudrun-Gudrun-Wool-Hoods-FW16

Gudrun & Gudrun heavy hand-knitted alpaca neck with hood, stitched on the neck.

Reinhard, Plank, Hats, FW16

Reinhard Plank hats.

Gudrun-Gudrun-Sweater-Trippen-Shoe-FW16

Gudrun & Gudrun wide sweater in hand-knitted virgin wool, mohair and alpaca with a patchwork of different workings and colours on the neck, slightly flared.

Trippen ankle boot in soft cowhide leather with laces and stripes on a side, classic no-slip rubber sole with rounded toe.

Pleats, Please, Issey, Miyake, Padded, Jacket, T-shirt, FW16

Pleats Please Issey Miyake hip-length down padded jacket in shiny polyester, turtle-neck, snap buttons closure, two side welt pockets.

Pleats Please Issey Miyake t-shirt in vertical pleated polyester with faded roller printing, long bat sleeve, soft turtle-neck, large along the bodice and fitted at the bottom.

Issey, Miyake, Purses, FW16

Issey Miyake small bucket bag in bicolour stiff soften and shiny polyester pleating, origami shape with three-dimensional star effect, string closure, small leather shoulder strap.

Daniela, Gregis, Pink, Red, Coat

Daniela Gregis reversible wide pea coat in mohair wool on a side and in circles quilted nylon on the other, crew-neck with half-moon back flap, small slits on the cuffs, two welt pockets with inside holes where is possible insert a belt to close the pea coat.

Daniela, Gregis, Bag, FW16

Daniela Gregis wool crochet rectangular shopper bag with silk and cotton ribbons in different colour, two short double handles, h 28 cm x l 46 cm x d 30 cm approximately.

Anrealage, Light, Collection, FW16, Jacket

Anrealage, Light, Collection, FW16, Jacket, Detail

Anrealage long jacket in black and white polyester and rayon graffito on a velvet effect base, single-breasted with lapels, button closure, two patch pockets, flounces on the sides and at the bottom, welt small breast pocket.

Anrealage, Light, Collection, FW16, Detail

Anrealage short trench in wool cloth with light circle imprinted at the centre, double-breasted with flaps and lapels emerging from the fabric, gorget patches on the shoulders, back yoke, 2 vertical welt pockets, 2 welt inner pockets.

Heart, Box, Packaging

Heart, Box, packaging

Heart, Box, Packaging

Heart, Box, Packaging

Heart, Box, Packaging

Heart, Box, Packaging

Heart, Box, Packaging

Heart, Box, Packaging

Photography by Sari Milan.

 


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DANIELA-GREGIS-ORATORIO DELLA PASSIONE

Straight from the fashion show held in Milan at the Oratorio of Sant’Ambrogio last Thursday our preview of the Daniela Gregis A/W 2015-16 collection.

Enjoy!

Daniela, Gregis, FW, 2016

Daniela, Gregis, FW, 2016

Daniela, Gregis, FW, 2016

Daniela, Gregis, FW, 2016

Daniela, Gregis, FW, 2016

Daniela, Gregis, FW, 2016

Daniela, Gregis, FW, 2016

Daniela, Gregis, FW, 2016

Daniela, Gregis, FW, 2016

Daniela, Gregis, FW, 2016

Daniela, Gregis, FW, 2016

Daniela, Gregis, FW, 2016

Daniela, Gregis, FW, 2016

Daniela, Gregis, FW, 2016

Daniela, Gregis, FW, 2016

Daniela, Gregis, FW, 2016

Daniela, Gregis, FW, 2016

Daniela, Gregis, FW, 2016

Daniela, Gregis, FW, 2016

Daniela, Gregis, FW, 2016

Daniela, Gregis, FW, 2016

Daniela, Gregis, FW, 2016

Daniela, Gregis, FW, 2016

Daniela, Gregis, FW, 2016

Daniela, Gregis, FW, 2016

Daniela, Gregis, FW, 2016

Daniela, Gregis, FW, 2016

Daniela, Gregis, FW, 2016

Daniela, Gregis, FW, 2016

Daniela, Gregis, FW, 2016

Daniela, Gregis, FW, 2016

Daniela, Gregis, FW, 2016

Daniela, Gregis, FW, 2016

Daniela, Gregis, FW, 2016

Daniela, Gregis, FW, 2016

Daniela, Gregis, FW, 2016

 

 

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