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Daniela Gregis FW 2021-2022

It’s all hand finished!

That’s what said one of the more expert tailors of the city while caressing with great care the endless length of the rim to be adjusted, bottom part of a cashmere coat so soft to the touch that fully captured her skilled sensitivity.

 

Even if Marta is pretty used to our ‘never-seen items’, with some pride I’ll say her: ‘Yes, it’s a Daniela Gregis’ coat, she works like that!

 

Actually it’s not usual for the items of the designer from Bergamo to arrive to the tailor’s shop. Fit and proportions are so comfortable that they never need adjustments, and instead of removing even a single inch from her precious fabrics, it’s more usual to use the eyelets applied to the sides to fix a rim, and adjust the length with new creativity.

But that ice melange coat could not risk to be stepped on up and down the bridges in Venice, during the morning runs, or just put on the shoulder during the daily working routine of its lucky owner.

Daniela Gregis’ items have an amazing peculiarity: you can wear them, even considering their precious compositions, in everyday life.

When you’re in a hurry or when you’re fully distracted, they will never embarrass you! They’re interchangeable, they can be worn inside out, back to front or, for coats in general, even upside down. This is due to their construction which is designed from the very beginning, with patterns and fabrics, doubled or alternate, changing according to how they are worn. Thanks to all accurate and full finishing, Gregis’ clothes still keep a constant balance in all solutions, even the most unexpected.

Daniela Gregis FW 2021-2022

In an apparently joyful attitude, her last collection, called Tintinba – evocative onomatopoeic sound of fragile instruments which, when in contact, can change into elementary and casual melodies – the Gregis’ creations offer infinite hypotheses and chromatic proposals, in fabrics and shapes, not sketched at all.

 

Harmonies can be composed with a unique complicity between colour themes and its best material creation: velvet, cashmere, silk, cotton, gauze, and so on. Each fibre assumes a pictorial and expressive responsibility becoming the interpreter of dominant seasonal feelings: the indefinite blue of winter skies, hot tones of strong chestnuts, cold notes of future and desired seasonal frosts.

 

That awareness can be found in textures and woven outlines in different colours, in the hugs of indifferent movements of stiff velvet and calm cashmere gauze, in the wrinkles of washed fabrics, from houndstooth to tone-on-tone patterns, to flawless and wide melange coils, from definitive silk, grabbed to rounded stitching, until stretched wool.

Daniela Gregis FW 2021-2022

Daniela Gregis FW 2021-2022

Daniela Gregis FW 2021-2022

Daniela Gregis FW 2021-2022

Daniela Gregis FW 2021-2022

Daniela Gregis FW 2021-2022

A show that starts little by little, because the creation is slow and fatiguing, and the season – we all know it – is the longest one…

Daniela Gregis Full Fashion Show FW 2021-2022

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Shu Moriyama coat

We have already had the opportunity to meet Shu Moriyama before, and those who visited our store in Padua in the last years could know his work, his textile and styling know-how originating from his experience at the unique ateliers of Yohji Yamamoto, whom he cooperated with before launching his own collection, under his own name.

Shu Moriyama and wife

As a generous participant in this transitioning moment in our working experience, Shu shows us his S/S 2021 suggestions.

 

With a typical Japanese approach, the horizon from which he gets his own inspiration is far away from the influences of western fashion, more focused on commercial inputs and linked to seasonal trends bringing to fast obsolescence. Shu’s view melts with trees, flowers and fruits, in an effort of abstraction which gives origin to the pleats of his comfortable crinkled fabrics, with small dots recalling petals, some times tone on tone, some others more showy.

 

Shu-Moriyama-inspiration

Shu Moriyama drawing

The wide spaces of Normandy, his land of adoption, are the background where his delicate clothes take form, designed with hidden elegance, more to put people at ease than to surprise in an impressive way. Poetry is not showed off, but it’s outlined with soft tones in fabric shades, in the embrace of shawl collars, in drop sleeves usually narrower at the bottom, in the chance of wearing many coats upside down, changing the final look.

 

Shu Moriyama tree inspiration pleats

Shu Moriyama pleats dress Spring Summer 2021

Dresses, jackets, coats, skirts, and trousers, are all designed with comfort and pragmatism in mind, thanks to the elasticity of a polyester that keeps the crinkled effect in time and warrants excellent fit performance, and, more simply, to very easy maintenance, since they can be washed in washing machine with no ironing.

Shu Moriyama IVO MILAN outfitShu Moriyama Spring Summer 2021 pleats jacket IVO MILAN

An alternative – less explicit and identifiable – to the more popular plated fabric of Issey Miyake, with a more reserved and calm accent, the one of Shu Moriyama, a visionary artisan to the utmost extremes for France and fashion.

 

Shu Moriyama Spring Summer 2021 pleats jacket IVO MILAN

Find the collection on our website!

 

Many thanks to Shu Moriyama for pictures and drawings and to Sari for the photograph shooting.

 

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Renli-Su-fw-2018-'19-particular

Already a regular guest at London’s Dover Street Market, despite her young age, Renli Su unveils an unprecedented China compared to what usually comes in mind: a common place of low-cost productions or certain throwaway Chinese clothing.

Daughter of a globalization that shortens space-time distances, the designer of Fujian, is formed at the Central Academy of Fine Arts in Beijing and continues her studies at London College of Fashion in London. Passionate about history and linked to the placid and maritime landscapes of her country of origin, in an unique and very personal cultural syncretism, Renli Su weaves her collections keeping stretch the strings between local solicitations and the discoveries related with the history of costume, discoveries carried out during the studies in Great Britain.

It’s the Victorian England that fascinates the designer in particular, as the shapes and fabrics can reveal the social life of the nineteenth and early twentieth century. The fabrics revived in the fairs and vintage markets of the European metropolis, allow her to cultivate, with the typical academic look of those who are ardent for textiles – less accessible in China after the Cultural Revolution – a cure for visual details, appropriating them in the realization of her garments.

Each collection follows and elaborates a historical theme, for the Fall/Winter 2018-2019 the inspiration is drawn from the extraordinary story of the French botanist Jeanne Baret, born in 1740 and considered the first woman to circumnavigate the world. Jeanne’s insatiable curiosity and desire for adventure led her on an almost impossible journey: disguised as a man she embarked on the ship of the Prince Louis Antoine de Bouganville, remaining many years at sea and visiting the most remote places. During her travels she discovered, collected and cataloged hundreds of species of plants, among which the most famous is the bougainvillea, named in honor of the chief explorer of the expedition.

One wonders what is the connection between the French researcher and the work of the Chinese designer and it is Renli Su herself who explains it to us:

“While Jeanne Baret represented two different ways of observing the natural world, combining the feminist folk knowledge of herbalism with the botanical science until then dominated by men, I seek a balance between feminine and masculine silhouettes, fusing elements of the Victorian era and floral motifs with the sailor’s uniform for a more contemporary and active vision of the woman”

Renli-Su-fw-2018-'19-shirt-1-2

And here is the translation, in a tenderhearted textile story:

Naval traditions are evoked by the creamy white furrowed with blue and beige stripes, sometimes with “lacquered” effect treatments that emphasize the shimmering of the sun and the salt; intense blue and faded grays suggest the depths of the oceans. Embroidered flowering branches, as if they had naturally fallen on the quilted and slightly embossed cotton, replicate the meticulous drawings of the adventurous botany. And again, cotton and linen jacquards rise like sailor sleeves. The silk and wool textures are offered thinking to protect those exposed to the weather of the trip. The Victorian details are seen in the ‘diboning of the corset’, with crossed strings and textile patchwork that together bring elements of Chinese culture, from cotton paper, to familiar work uniforms that can be traced in diagonal cuts and closures. The quilted cotton and the use of synthetic fur with very warm yak fibers, for jackets and reversible coats, insist on respecting the seasonal thermal requirements.

Renli-Su-fw-2018-2019-particular-shirt

Renli-Su-fw-2018-'19-jacket-particular

Renli-Su-fw-2018-'19-jacket

Renli-Su-fw-2018-'19-gilet

Renli-Su-fw-particular-shirt-black

Renli-Su-fw-2018-2019-coat


Renli-Su-fw-2018-2019-jacket-3

Renli Su makes no secret of her inspirations and aspirations which, as herself writes, emerge from an instinct, deeply human, of adventure and the courage to follow it, regardless of one’s origin and culture, in spaces, geographical or mental, still unknown and often antithetical.

Renli-Su-fw-2018-'19

As always, an opportunity to appreciate the discovery is to accompany you into his show-room in Paris…

renli-su-you-tube

Find online the New Collection

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Comme des Garçons-F/W-2018-'19-dress

Sometimes we have noticed how, in the collections by Rei Kawakubo in art Comme des Garçons, we can find the textile expression of philosophical concepts or perceptions on the contemporary deepened in the form of a dress.

The theatrical shows that characterize the presentations of the last seasons, accompany the spectators inside intense suggestions, emphasized by lights, music and scenes designed to enhance the cryptic proposal of the Japanese intellectual.

For the Fall/Winter 2018-2019 the inspiration comes from a work by Susan Sontag, Notes on Camp, in which the American author reflects around a sensitivity, defined precisely Camp and that we could summarize in the following passage:

 

«It is not a natural mode of sensibility, if there be any such. Indeed the essence of camp is its love of the unnatural: of artifice and exaggeration. […] A sensibility is almost, but not quite, ineffable. Any sensibility which can be crammed into the mold of a system, or handled with the rough tools of proof, is no longer a sensibility at all. It has hardened into an idea.»

Source: Wikipedia

The theme, collected by Rei Kawakubo, is dressed up in hyper and oversized multicolor structures created exclusively for the fashion show, in the fellinian sound of Nino Rota, in the dim light reserved for the funny, excessive and dreamlike figures on the catwalk.

The following translation into the showroom reveals items of much more reasonable portability, although densely inhabited by that original poetic aura. The presence of velvet, of frequent floral rouche, of contrasting color stratifications composed on torn fabrics bring the collection to a Venetian atmospheres, evoking a luxurious and evolved 18th century, dedicated to an intense social life, enriched with occasions and cultural events. The designer‘s soul wraps so in textile acrobatics the curious, aesthetically vulnerable, silhouettes of female minds still available to welcome astonishment and imaginative value in the everyday routine, making it much more special!

Comme des Garçons-F/W-2018-'19-skirt

Comme des Garçons-F/W-2018-'19-jacket-2

Comme des Garçons-F/W-2018-'19-jacket-shirt

Comme des Garçons-F/W-2018-'19-jacket-1

Comme des Garçons-F/W-2018-'19-jacket

Comme des Garçons-F/W-2018-'19

Comme des Garçons-F:W-2018-'19-knitwear

As always, an opportunity to appreciate the discovery is to accompany you into his show-room in Paris…

Comme-des-Garçons-you-tube-showroom

 

Find online the New Collection:

COMME_DES_GARCONS_F/W-2018-'19

 

 

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miaoran-fw.2018-'19-knitwear

A made in Italy sustained by promising names is hidden behind the young Miaoran brand.

Miao, the Italian-Chinese designer of the brand, after an education in design and pattern making at the most prestigious European schools, began an intense collaboration with Missoni.In 2015 he founded his own studio in Milan and in 2017, impressed by the talented trait of the boy, Giorgio Armani supports the Spring/Summer fashion show in the prestigious Armani Theater in the Tortona area.

Even if it still maintains a certain eclectic style, Miaoran already shows constants that identify the way it operates: a recurring presence of oversized volumes, which offer the possibility of being worn without distinction of gender and age; a deep knowledge of the fibers which are balance in a reasonable way in the ongoing season; a playful approach to the composition of the collections, traceable in the use of a personal graphic and illustrative ability, clearly visible in the last Spring/Summer, more subtle in the chromatic compositions of the Autumn/Winter 2018-2019. Even the inclusion of unique pieces and the search for suggestive fabrics can be considered characteristic elements of the young and curious designer.

Attentive to the suggestions and narratives of the experiences in the store, Miao reveals himself every time a skilled and promising interpreter of the contaminations between East and West that increasingly meander in the reserved environments of fashion.

 

miaoran-fw.2018-'19-coat-1

miaoran-fw.2018-'19-bomber-jacket

miaoran-fw.2018-'19-coat

miaoran-fw.2018-'19-jacket

miaoran-fw.2018-'19-skirt

miaoran-fw.2018-'19-dress

miaoran-fw.2018-'19-dress-particular

miaoran-fw.2018-'19-coat-particular

As always, an opportunity to appreciate the discovery is to accompany you into his show-room in Paris…

miaoran-fw-2018-'19-showroom

Find the Fall/Winter Collection of Miaoran

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