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Comme des Garçons-F/W-2018-'19-dress

Sometimes we have noticed how, in the collections by Rei Kawakubo in art Comme des Garçons, we can find the textile expression of philosophical concepts or perceptions on the contemporary deepened in the form of a dress.

The theatrical shows that characterize the presentations of the last seasons, accompany the spectators inside intense suggestions, emphasized by lights, music and scenes designed to enhance the cryptic proposal of the Japanese intellectual.

For the Fall/Winter 2018-2019 the inspiration comes from a work by Susan Sontag, Notes on Camp, in which the American author reflects around a sensitivity, defined precisely Camp and that we could summarize in the following passage:

 

«It is not a natural mode of sensibility, if there be any such. Indeed the essence of camp is its love of the unnatural: of artifice and exaggeration. […] A sensibility is almost, but not quite, ineffable. Any sensibility which can be crammed into the mold of a system, or handled with the rough tools of proof, is no longer a sensibility at all. It has hardened into an idea.»

Source: Wikipedia

The theme, collected by Rei Kawakubo, is dressed up in hyper and oversized multicolor structures created exclusively for the fashion show, in the fellinian sound of Nino Rota, in the dim light reserved for the funny, excessive and dreamlike figures on the catwalk.

The following translation into the showroom reveals items of much more reasonable portability, although densely inhabited by that original poetic aura. The presence of velvet, of frequent floral rouche, of contrasting color stratifications composed on torn fabrics bring the collection to a Venetian atmospheres, evoking a luxurious and evolved 18th century, dedicated to an intense social life, enriched with occasions and cultural events. The designer‘s soul wraps so in textile acrobatics the curious, aesthetically vulnerable, silhouettes of female minds still available to welcome astonishment and imaginative value in the everyday routine, making it much more special!

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As always, an opportunity to appreciate the discovery is to accompany you into his show-room in Paris…

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Find online the New Collection:

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A made in Italy sustained by promising names is hidden behind the young Miaoran brand.

Miao, the Italian-Chinese designer of the brand, after an education in design and pattern making at the most prestigious European schools, began an intense collaboration with Missoni.In 2015 he founded his own studio in Milan and in 2017, impressed by the talented trait of the boy, Giorgio Armani supports the Spring/Summer fashion show in the prestigious Armani Theater in the Tortona area.

Even if it still maintains a certain eclectic style, Miaoran already shows constants that identify the way it operates: a recurring presence of oversized volumes, which offer the possibility of being worn without distinction of gender and age; a deep knowledge of the fibers which are balance in a reasonable way in the ongoing season; a playful approach to the composition of the collections, traceable in the use of a personal graphic and illustrative ability, clearly visible in the last Spring/Summer, more subtle in the chromatic compositions of the Autumn/Winter 2018-2019. Even the inclusion of unique pieces and the search for suggestive fabrics can be considered characteristic elements of the young and curious designer.

Attentive to the suggestions and narratives of the experiences in the store, Miao reveals himself every time a skilled and promising interpreter of the contaminations between East and West that increasingly meander in the reserved environments of fashion.

 

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As always, an opportunity to appreciate the discovery is to accompany you into his show-room in Paris…

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Find the Fall/Winter Collection of Miaoran

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On the first day of Autumn, 21st of September, 2017, we find ourselves inside the Oratorio della Passione at the Basilica di Sant’Ambrogio in Milan, a large wooden structure brushed with blue, an abiding memory of bathing establishments impregnated with sun and salt which welcomes the public and takes it back to the summer just passed.

Masterful interpreter of the most identifying aspects of the seasons, Daniela Gregis takes away from the public the summer nostalgia by carrying it with decision in the future Spring/Summer 2018.

The sea is a dominant presence, cited in the countless shades of blue, in the unusual variations of the typical sailor stripes, in the many forms of weaving: with horizontal stripes or laddered net squares. The maritime environment, with its relaxed rhythms and crafts that expand its flavors and rituals, is evoked in the light and colored fibers of linens, in the accessories, bags and buckets that lead to reserved beaches, two-colored straw baskets to be filled with local products. The modus of realizations is always complex: from the covered stitches on the inside and outside to make the clothes reversible, to experimental techniques on completely natural materials, such as the linen, ‘beaten’ and combined in chromatic overlaps from which derive previously unexpressed colors, to wise doses of light and dark. Airy gauze, light or relaxed canvases, washed, and other, more sustained, fabrics, among the countless possibilities of the designer to translate the summer of Bergamo, together with the inevitable playful elements traceable in her printed cottons: with multicolored stylized fish or brushed with confused and vital skies.

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The season takes shape, suggests occasions, brings closer and holds the best of days…

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Find the New Spring/Summer Collection 2018

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Comme-des-Garçons-ss-2018-showroom

Much closer to a theatrical performance, the Comme des Garçons fashion shows have become an opportunity to witness the staging of a sort of textile fashion zeitgeist. The designer’s renouncement of any sort of purposeful function for the season links, in fact, the viewers to an unprecedented interpretive tension, aimed at guessing the possible materials that they may be able to see later in the showroom but also, and this being everyone’s challenge, guessing the cryptic message carried by strictly scenographic clothes, often in symbiosis with the soundtrack. Inside the Russian embassy, the selected place for the Spring/Summer 2018 fashion show, we will not find any garment that can be worn, but the theme and the spirit of the collection, called Multidimensional Graffiti.

Rei Kawakubo arbitrarily combines the 16th century, in the recognizable works of Arcimboldo and Sesson Shuchei (an artist more familiar to the Japanese culture) with the contemporary black and white illustrations by Stefan Marx, the graphic design of the eBoy group, the manga drawings of Makoto Tahashi, or the colored faces of Serge Vollin. A hammering soundtrack, definitely pop, holds together the different artistic experiences, perhaps an invitation to recognize the value of youth culture or more a subtle parody of the confusion around the concept of contemporary art?

Accompanied by the many questions created by the designer herself, in the showroom we finally discover the translation in the form of dress of the Kawakubo provocations.

The pictorial or graphic works occupy the entire space of the dresses and shirts, classic fabrics, such as the glen plaid become gimmicks to emphasize more sophisticated textile games, made of cut sleeves and sewn on the body. The forms help, in their way of suiting nicely, to transform the female silhouettes into singular supports meant to lead elements of art history in everyday life.

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Our video footage can be an useful tool to enter with less difficulty in the most practicable dimension of Comme des Garçons and to learn also about the less daring world of the other line dear to the Maison, the Comme des Garçons-Comme des Garçons.

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Find online the new Spring/Summer Collection 2018

 

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gustavo-lins-sweater-green-ss-2018

Never as for the case of Gustavo Lins is the expression ‘clothes as architectures for the body’ more fitting. In fact the Brasilian designer is born as an architect but, after accepting the challenge of his university professor, he transferred and put into play the skills acquired in the discipline onto other materials. It is not by chance that his creations repeat that harmonious geometric complexity, of whom has the clear awareness about proportions and measures.

In his professional evolution Gustavo is today more and more fascinated by the kimono, above all for the elegance in which he forces the wearer’s posture, but also for the freedom granted in his ability to be ‘adjust’. Combining his passion for geometry with the qualities of the traditional Japanese garment, the designer therefore focuses on pieces that do not offer a size development but rather adapt and modify their plasticity according to the different silhouettes.

Tunics and dresses, or the interesting shirt/jacket with fabric parts and knitted parts, lend themselves to non-unique uses, can be worn long or shorter, wider or slim fit, with simple precautions that from time to time transform balances and appearances. Not suitable for those looking for a resolute and dry composure, Gustavo aims at a more open and available public, accommodating towards indeterminate and less definitive lines, that are able to reveal themselves in motion and in the participatory experimentation of those who choose them.

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As always, an opportunity to appreciate the discovery is to accompany you into his show-room in Paris…

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Find online the new Spring/Summer Collection of Gustavo Lins

 

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