IVO MILAN – Radical Fashion Blog

Tag "Shu Moriyama"

Shu Moriyama coat

We have already had the opportunity to meet Shu Moriyama before, and those who visited our store in Padua in the last years could know his work, his textile and styling know-how originating from his experience at the unique ateliers of Yohji Yamamoto, whom he cooperated with before launching his own collection, under his own name.

Shu Moriyama and wife

As a generous participant in this transitioning moment in our working experience, Shu shows us his S/S 2021 suggestions.


With a typical Japanese approach, the horizon from which he gets his own inspiration is far away from the influences of western fashion, more focused on commercial inputs and linked to seasonal trends bringing to fast obsolescence. Shu’s view melts with trees, flowers and fruits, in an effort of abstraction which gives origin to the pleats of his comfortable crinkled fabrics, with small dots recalling petals, some times tone on tone, some others more showy.



Shu Moriyama drawing

The wide spaces of Normandy, his land of adoption, are the background where his delicate clothes take form, designed with hidden elegance, more to put people at ease than to surprise in an impressive way. Poetry is not showed off, but it’s outlined with soft tones in fabric shades, in the embrace of shawl collars, in drop sleeves usually narrower at the bottom, in the chance of wearing many coats upside down, changing the final look.


Shu Moriyama tree inspiration pleats

Shu Moriyama pleats dress Spring Summer 2021

Dresses, jackets, coats, skirts, and trousers, are all designed with comfort and pragmatism in mind, thanks to the elasticity of a polyester that keeps the crinkled effect in time and warrants excellent fit performance, and, more simply, to very easy maintenance, since they can be washed in washing machine with no ironing.

Shu Moriyama IVO MILAN outfitShu Moriyama Spring Summer 2021 pleats jacket IVO MILAN

An alternative – less explicit and identifiable – to the more popular plated fabric of Issey Miyake, with a more reserved and calm accent, the one of Shu Moriyama, a visionary artisan to the utmost extremes for France and fashion.


Shu Moriyama Spring Summer 2021 pleats jacket IVO MILAN

Find the collection on our website!


Many thanks to Shu Moriyama for pictures and drawings and to Sari for the photograph shooting.


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1 3 2 5, Issey, Miyake, SS16

Top 132 5. Issey Miyake spring/summer 2016.

Despite the slow, endless moving forward of the winter, in the shop the season sales introduce and overlap the joyful arrival of the next Spring/Summer. An impressive Trippen delivery makes us guess the incoming chromatic presences and, for the first time in Europe, the 132 5. Issey Miyake origami lines, anticipates the most clever developments of the extraordinary Japanese Maison!

Trippen, Shoes, SS16

Trippen, Shoes, SS16

Trippen shoes spring/summer 2016 lined up ready to be photigraphed.

1 3 2 5, Issey, Miyake, SS16

1 3 2 5, Issey, Miyake, SS16

1 3 2 5, Issey, Miyake, SS16

1 3 2 5, Issey, Miyake, SS16

1 3 2 5, Issey, Miyake, SS16

Top 132 5. Issey Miyake spring/summer 2016.

1 One-dimensional

3 Three-dimensional

2 Shape

5 Body

But also Daniela Gregis, Comme des Garçons, Junya Watanabe are waiting for their turn of being shot and added to our online catalogue…

Junya, Watanabe, SS16

Junya, Watanabe, SS16

Junya Watanabe spring/summer 2016

Daniela, Gregis, Packaging, SS16

Daniela, Gregis, Packaging, SS16The well-curated Daniela Gregis packaging.

Daniela, Gregis, Vichy, Bag, SS16

Hand-woven Daniela Gregis bag in wicker and vichy spring/summer 2016.

Comme, des, Garcons, Daniela, Gregis, Junya, Watanabe, Issey, Miyake, SS16

Comme, des, Garcons, Daniela, Gregis, Junya, Watanabe, Issey, Miyake, SS16

Comme, des, Garcons, Daniela, Gregis, Junya, Watanabe, SS16

The first arrivals of Comme des Garçons, Daniela Gregis, Junya Watanabe and 1 3 2 5.Issey Miyake waiting to be photographed  for our online catalogue.

And after these fleeting, as confused, new arrivals previews, the rigid temperatures allow us to still dwell upon the many winter possibilities… Outfits provided by the knowledge of months of experimentations, revelations and fittings with the shop customers. Often unique pieces, of impossible to find design, being timeless they are combinable with garments from the past winters, a strategic and gratifying finishing to our refined wardrobes.

Vivienne, Westwood, Anglomania, Red, Label, outfit, AW15, Sale

Vivienne, Westwood, Anglomania, Red, Label, outfit, AW15, Sale

Vivienne Westwood Red Label long and heavy sweater in malfilè wool, cotton, polyamide and acrylic with big contrasting triangles, wide crew-neck.

Vivienne Westwood Anglomania short pants-style miniskirt in polyester and elastane canvas with  a worn-out velvet effect printing, inner buttons closure, outer buttons diagonal closure, 2 side pockets, central back slit.

Vivienne Westwood Anglomania viscose and spandex leggings with Union Jack printing.

Vivienne Westwood Mantero big scarf in acrylic and wool big thread loom weft with squares pattern, fringes along the edges, l 200 cm x h 55 cm.

Trippen ankle boot in soft suede cowhide leather slightly creased on the instep, side zip closure, new ‘spot’ sole with two rubber blocks and non-slip base made on iron stamp.

Y's, Yohji, Yamamoto, Outfit, AW15, Sale

Y’s Yohji Yamamoto wide coat in loom worked wollen multicolour cloth, single-breasted, half-closed crew-neck, frayed edges, two diagonal vertical pockets, press buttons closure.

Y’s Yohji Yamamoto long, wide and asymmetric sweater in knitted wool with a light bouclé effect, turtle-neck with V opening on the front, horizontal ribbing on the breast and on the shoulder, diagonal point at the bottom, side stitching, one side slit, asymmetric line.

Y's, Yohji, Yamamoto, Outfit, AW15, Sale

Y’s Yohji Yamamoto spencer jacket in wool gabardine with cuff and hem bands, single-breasted with lapels, two vertical welt pockets.

Y’s Yohji Yamamoto wide, large and asymmetric divided skirt in light pale multicolour wool canvas, with brace, one vertical welt pockets, zip and drawstring side closure.

Yohji Yamamoto wide stole in knitted wool and nylon worked with stitched ribbed fringes, fringes at the far ends, l 216 cm x h 70 cm.

Trippen ankle-boot in cowhide leather with new ‘spot’ sole with two rubber blocks and non-slipper base made on iron stamps, vertical elastic bands from the sole to the ankle.



Yohji Yamamoto short cardigan in light knitted wool, polyamide and viscose with abstract-geometrical texture, zip closure, drop-shaped neck, wider on the side, hem band, wide kimono sleeve.

Yohji Yamamoto short jersey and gabardine wool dress, tight-fitting t-shirt bodice with wide draped fabric sewn at the neck and adjustable, long sleeve.

Yohji Yamamoto classic twill trousers printed with artist Yasuto Sasada drawings, tight at the bottom, 2 front diagonal pockets and 2 welt pockets with small button on the back, zip and button closure, belt loops and inserted strap with buckle, lined.

Trippen ankle boot in soft suede cowhide leather slightly creased on the instep, side zip closure, new ‘spot’ sole with two rubber blocks and non-slip base made on iron stamp.

Rick, Owens, Sculpture, Padded, Coat, AW15, Sale

Rick Owens sculpture padded jacket longer on the sides in polyamide with an horizontal pleating processing, geometrical stitching on the front, single-breasted with wide triangular lapels, three snaps buttons closure.

Issey Miyake wool and polyurethane crêpe stretch trousers with contrasting colour belt, two diagonal pockets, two welt pockets on the back, diagonal panel stitched on the front, two buttons and zip side closure, soft line.

Trippen ankle-boot in washed and treated cowhide leather with three blocks heel, side zip closure, wide sole, instep upper part higher on the back.

Junya, Watanabe, Knitwear, AW15, Sale

Junya Watanabe mohair sweater with ribbed pyramid origami in wool and polyester along the sleeves and the shoulders, crew-neck, band on the cuffs, neck and at the bottom.

Junya Watanabe knee-length wide full skirt with rounded large pleats in wool flannel, side closure with zip and hook.

Issey, Miyake, Cortella, Shu, Moriyama, AW15, Sale

Issey, Miyake, Cortella, Shu, Moriyiama, AW15, Sale

Shu Moriyama short and wide jacket in embossed wool canvas with patterns in two different colours, crew-neck, single-breasted with press buttons.

Andrea Cortella rew-neck sweater in stitched Cashwool extra fine Merino wool with pyramid shaped points on the front, knitted band at the bottom, on the cuffs and on the neck, straight line.

Issey Miyake skirt in steam stretch pleated bicolour polyester and polyurethane with a narrow crystal effect, elastic band at the belt, wide and flared line, two welt pockets, reversible and wearable as a cape.

Classic Trippen’ ankle boot in oiled suede cowhide leather with strings and small hooks, removable cork insole, rubber sole.

Issey, Miyake, AW15, Sale

Issey Miyake pleated garments.

Junya, Watanabe, Comme, des, Garçons, AW15, Sale

Junya Watanabe and Comme des Garçons garments.

Gudrun, and, Gudrun, Knitwear, AW15, Sale

Gudrun & Gudrun knitwear.

Gudrun, and Gudrun, Yohji, Yamamoto, Vivienne, Westwood, Outfit, AW15, Sale

Gudrun, and Gudrun, Yohji, Yamamoto, Vivienne, Westwood, Outfit, AW15, Sale

Gudrun & Gudrun open jacket style cardigan in heavy knitted alpaca, dropped stitching working on the shoulder and along the sleeve.

Y’s Yohji Yamamoto long divided skirt in cotton canvas with vertical stitched pleats, 2 diagonal side welt pockets, zip and button closure.

Vivienne Westwood Mantero big scarf in acrylic and wool big thread loom weft with squares pattern, fringes along the edges, l 200 cm x h 55 cm.

Trippen ankle boot in drummed cowhide leather and traditional Japanese sole, parallel stratifications effect on the upper instep, zip closure, traditional rubber Japanese sole.

Forme, D'Expression, Boboutic, AW15, Sale

Forme D’Expression wide pea coat in damask wool cloth with checks, shawl neck, shorter on the back, points on the front, pointed bottom, closure with button on the neck or on the side.

Boboutic short sweater in knitted extra fine wool, polyamide and yak, with irregular weft thread in a different colour at the bottom and on the sleeves, crew-neck with band, band on the cuffs and at the hem, soft line.

Forme D’Expression wool jersey trousers with waistband and knee-length doubled leg, soft line, two side welt pockets and one patch pocket on the back.

Forme D’Expression high closed neck warmer in doubled knitted soft wool and cashmere in two different colours inside-outside, reversible.

Kate Sheridan rectangular backpack in waterproof British Millerain with leather adjustable shoulder straps, flap and adjustable leather ribbon closure, internal open pockets and internal zip pocket, h 43 cm x l 38 cm.

Daniela, Gregis, Outfit, AW15, Sale

Daniela Gregis egg-shaped handmade sweater in straight stitched mohair and silk, wide crew-neck, long sleeve, neck, hem and cuffs with ribbed edge.

Daniela Gregis calf-length skirt in double wool crêpe with dark ‘storm’ printing, cut out hem, waistband at the belt, curled at the waist.

Trippen ankle boot in treated and washed cowhide leather, winglet with a pleat effect on the side, turn-up at the ankle, inner zip closure, two shell rubber sole.

Reinhard, Plank, Hat, AW15

Reinhard Plank medium-brimmed bowler hat in waxed and varnished lapin felt with a ‘rock’ effect.

Photography by Sari Milan.





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Shu Moriyama’s training took shape and developed in the long, trusted collaboration with Yohji Yamamoto. During that extraordinary experience, many years ago, he consolidated his professional skills and, with great courage, managed to leave his great master launching a line which still bears his name.

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The appointment from the Padua store is back. Outfits on models and close ups of details, to give those who are not regulars at the store an opportunity to discover the fit, the possible combinations and those details not in the catalogues…

Padded coat featuring a loose fit, double breast, concealed press stud fastening, wide collar ‘button down’ with side stitch detail, front pockets, in wool and polyester blend, navy color, by Shu Moriyama

Same coat, with felt wool crown middle lenght felt wool crown, with elastic detail at the back, burgundy color, by Scha

Padded hooded coat, featuring a single breast, press stud fastening, two slanted pockets, hood with adjustable elastic drawstring, quilted with horizontal stitching, black and bugundy colors, by Pleats Please-Issey Miyake

Padded short coat, featuring flair line with origami style construction, wide collar, big buttons closure; the coat is made in two pieces, lining with long sleeve and v neck, and the origami part sleeveless, separatly wearable, in nylon satin, black color, by Issey Miyake

…with silk shawl featuring plain and embossed stripes pattern, green color, by Cauliflower-Issey Miyake

Padded short coat, featuring a hip length, a hight collar with imitation fur lining, concealed zip and button with loop fastening, two flap pockets, in knit design printed polyester, beige/khaik color, by Issey Miyake

…with sheepskin mittens featuring a separate index finger and thumb, a cleft mitten and a sheep fur detail, imitation fur lining, brown color, by Issey Miyake

Not sure if it matches? Don’t hesitate to contact us (shop@ivomilan.it), we’ll try it and take photos of it for you!


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This piece was thinked to be published in a kind of magazine such as ELLE UK, one of the best fashion magazine, where articles used to talk about fashion differently from the ordinary publications. It is a magazine that keeps an eye on the most innovative trends and on the most particulare personalities.

This piece could be relevant for the reader to see how in Italy the attention is not focused only on the Italian fashion that everybody knows, but it is possible to find “fashion researchers” that really believe that fashion is not only buisness but, first of all, a non-stop innovation-seeking.

The Radical Fashion Shop

by Francesca Ferlin

Outfit Y'S, shoes TRIPPEN, hat SCHA

Orlando Milan has always believed that, in order to dress someone’s body, you first have to dress his mind. This is one of the first things you should know when you visit his shop in Padua. IVO MILAN is located in the central Via Santa Lucia in a striking Romanesque house, currently the oldest civil standing building in town; even a quick first glance at the window reveals that this is no ordinary shop: dim lights illuminate a precious dress and suddenly it feels like being in a museum admiring a scuplture in a casket. The way that the windows are settled, the use of the lights, the mixture of the colours for the background, used to enhance the shapes and the shades of fabrics, are all clues that this is no mere fashion, as the attention is drawn to the art that springs from fashion.

T-shirt SACAI, boot TRIPPEN

In 1945 Ivo Milan, Orlando’s father, following his family tradition, opened his fabrics shop, manufactured clothes and named it after himself to distinguish it from his brothers’ businesses which bore the same family name. In 1967 Orlando joined the father’s company as a co-worker, and after his death, started the long work that made IVO MILAN the shop that is known nowadays. So this is supposed to be a traditional family-run business, where family values have gone from generation to generation and time seems to stand still. But Orlando Milan is not of this opinion: “Through these years we have always tried to maintain the values that my father taught me, the importance of the manufacture and the indispensable quality of the fabrics, but nowadays the guidelines of the shop are something new that I have built during this forty years of experience inside the fashion industry.”

Milan’s experience is a long path that has experimented various forms of fashion and arts, through
the first Versace and Armani collections at the end of the 70′s (IVO MILAN was one of the first shops in Italy that started to sell these brands) to Japanese fashion, which in the last twenty years has distinguished this retailer from the others. Key brands that make this shop unique in its kind are Yohji Yamamoto, Junya Watanabe, Issey Miyake, Rick Owens, Martin Margiela, Shu Moriyama, Jun Takhashi and Comme des Garçons, the brand that best embodies the philosophy of the shop. Rei Kawakubo is a fervid supporter of trying to know what “has never been seen before”, and this is the most important guideline that Mr Milan wants his shop to follow: nothing must be mass-produced and everything must be different from what one usually sees. This principle is applied to everything that concerns the shop, from its furniture to the selection process that goes on behind the displaying of clothes. In fact, the limited production and circulation of the labels sold in the shop exists alongside a specific principle which determines how to choose everything that will be sold. “This principle is one which takes into account the requirements of a very well-educated, niche Paduan clientele, whose taste has not been shaped by the influences of media and television, and whose interests lie in those very special purchases – in authentically creative ones, if not in ones with a strong artistic value” says the shop owner.

So the customers have to be
open-minded and be endowed with a marked inclination for artistic values to understand IVO MILAN’s fashion. Radical Fashion, as Mr Milan used to call it. This name has been adopted after the Radical Fashion Exhibition at the Victoria & Albert Museum in 2002, where the designers that Orlando Milan loves the most and has chosen to sell, were displayed in a collective exhibition, from Yohji Yamamoto to Comme des Garçons. “This exhibition really reflects my idea of fashion and these designers are, to me, the real essence of this concept.” he states. They are “radical” in the full sense of the word: they are “revolutionary” and they are “rooted” in the art. They cut through ideas as well as fabric. Challenging established views, they have committed their lives to seeking ever more demanding expressions of “beauty”, with diverse and often provocative results”.

T-shirt vintage COMME DES GARÇONS
But which is his conception of beauty? Again, the inspiration comes from Japan: “The guideline that always has inspired me comes
from the Japanese concept of beauty, that is “the aesthetics of imperfection” (wabi-sabi). I am against the logic of homologation and of display of wealth that inspires great European fashion, especially in these last years. I prefer to give my customers the possibility to portray themselves through an “understatement styleor with an idea-dress that draws the attention to the originality and to the independent spirit of the person wearing it.”

Sweater OYUNA

Detail sweater OYUNA
For IVO MILAN, fashion is something far from the conventional concept that everybody is accustomed to. First and foremost,
fashion is research, is an exploration of the unknown. Here ideas come first, the most interesting part of a dress is not how it was made but why. What is it that lays behind the creation? How can a designer elaborate an idea and transform it into something that everybody can wear? These are only a few of the questions that Mr Milan wants customers to ask themselves as they wander around the shop. Because the most important thing is not to sell a dress but to make customers aware of what they are going to buy, something that stands over the trends, something that will rest forever as a unique work of art. And how is it possible to make the right choice, to find the piece that will fit perfectly and will be always with you? “Know yourself and let the dress be simply a continuation of your person”.



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