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daniela-gregis-christmas-window

If only the Christmas holidays would be an occasion to offer not so obvious gifts, with redounded shapes and brands, but rather unique ones, for their material, for their creative ingenuity or thought intensity, a reason to take a look over our online catalogue or visit our store in via Santa Lucia in Padua, one could find…

Starting with Suzusan‘s cashmere, a young Japanese who already is the creator of splendid knitted accessories for Yohji Yamamoto, with his scarves, polka dot blankets and the knitwear, all colored with the ancient shibori technique, he surprises us with the usage of unusual colors on an usually so classic fibber.

suzusan-knitwear-fw-2018suzusan-blanquet-fw-2018We can continue with the bags in light and smooth colored and treated leather, from time to time, with paper, metal or rubber effect of the Dutch Frrry

frrry-bag-fw-2018frrry-bag-fw.2018-1Or with the Italian knitwear of F-cashmere, the historical producer of excellence cashmere, reversible and with suggestive nuances, or Very Busy, also reversible and with unusual colours in the background.

F-Cashmere-fw-2018very-busy-scarves-fw-2018Or with the hard to find fragrance of Comme des Garçons perfumes, reserved for the few boutiques that have the prestigious Japanese brand.

Comme-des-Garçons-perfume-andy-warholComme-des-Garçons-perfume

The comfortable hats of the Japanese Chisaki, made in One Size only and with warm fabrics, never irritating, with shapes that can easily be modelled.

chisaki-fw-2018-hatsDepending on its receiver, the thought and the research can be lost among coats, padded coats, jackets or shirts of famous brands such as Issey MiyakeComme des Garçons or the very warm and poetic oversized sweaters of Junya Watanabe; to venture into the fabrics worked by the wisdom of Daniela Gregis, be amazed by the textile decorations of Renli Su, find yourself in the more discreet world of Casey Casey or in the somewhat androgynous modernity of Forme d’Expression… without boring you, the only thing to be done is to dive and look among the many photos and the wide range.

Comme-des-Garçons-Nike-shoesjunya-watanabe-fw-2018Everything, as you know by now, will be wrapped by the personal and irreproducible packages made ad hoc by the extraordinary hands of Heart Box and her students…ivo-milan-heart-boxivo-milan-heart-box-2ivo-milan-heart-box-3ivo-milan-heart-box-4ivo-milan-heart-box-5We leave you by involving you in a very short video, where Christmas becomes abstract and moment of free creativity in our boutique in via Santa LuciaPadua.

ivo-milan-at-work-youtube-video

 

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At the acme of summer, the first winter arrivals distract us from the high temperatures and from the phlegmatic calm of the semi-deserted cities.

In the store we can taste the new season that day by day takes shape around the choices made six months ago, during the Milan and Paris orders.

There’s no need to be distracted though, because the news will be really exciting: authors like Marc Le BihanRenli Su and many other surprises, unprecedented poetics that will integrate the already available assortment, projecting us onto truly prolific, cultured and ingenious global modernity.

While waiting a quick look at the new arrivals, from Daniela Gregis to Boboutic, the 132. 5 by Issey Miyake, the nuno felt of Cri-S and the Trippen shoes…


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Photo by Pascal Maucuit

Photo by Pascal Maucuit

On a rainy Saturday morning in Paris, with the town still sleeping, we run to the venue hosting the parade of Junya Watanabe: the faculty of pharmacology at Rue de l’Observatoire, exactly at the opposite end of the metro stop to which we have to go in the evening also for Comme des Garçons.

The rain, the time and the hurry to look for the fastest way to reach our destination do not favor the good humor, until, once into the mighty faculty salon, we are not awakened by a loud rock. The rhythm spurs for attention, the fierce gait of the models drags the present into an inevitable, and personal, reflection on fashion, on its utility or emptiness, and above all, it generates a real, widespread and more than ever palpable perception of uncontrollable enthusiasm.

Junya Watanabe Fall/Winter 2017-2018

As if the world suddenly recapture each potential, the possible silhouettes projected on Junya Watanabe‘s future Fall/Winter incite that desire for change that is the vulnus itself of fashion and the radicalism with which the Japanese designer staggers it is thrilling.

Faithful to his own ‘cyber’ vision of contemporaneity, Watanabe assembles materials with his typical origami form, which on this occasion we can recognize in the circle: calf hair, black leather, leopard spots, all strictly in synthetic leather, studs and pailletes re-compose patch-works of cultures and epochs of costume history of the most experimental forms. Excess is the guiding thread of deformed decorative elements, which not only outline unusual aesthetics, but also become part of and modify the human physical structure. Caps like sculptures, multicolored textile wigs, lacking any romantic poetics and built to defend any hypothetical attack, tunics that amplify the circularity of the chakras, coats shaped around the feminine figure with asymmetrical spheres, possible ultra-modern armors against the advancement of the creative nothing.

Junya Watanabe Fall/Winter 2017-2018

Junya Watanabe Fall/Winter 2017-2018

Junya Watanabe Fall/Winter 2017-2018

Junya Watanabe Fall/Winter 2017-2018

Junya Watanabe Fall/Winter 2017-2018

Junya Watanabe Fall/Winter 2017-2018

But the excess is finally cleaned, made accessible in the showroom choices, revealing how far it can go and how it can be traced back to the hectic daily life but still it remains a visionary exercise of pure and extraordinary contemporary textile art.

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Zucca Fall/Winter 2017-2018 detail

Around the brand Zucca a private audience is joined together, happily surprised whenever they come in the store and find themselves immerse in such uncommon assortment in European boutiques.

Always a Japanese production, backed by the A-Net group, affiliated with Maison Miyake that also has Tsumori Chisato and Plantation, Zucca can brag with its own path, by now for more than ten years, that testifies a consolidated maturity.

Cleaned by some decorative elements, perhaps a bit too Japanese, it is interesting to notice the skill with which details and particulars are introduced to enliven the quotidian, the dimension in which Zucca is best placed. His design is difficulty applied on big occasions, but instead interprets everyday life with careful diagonal seams, small asymmetries and prints that, together with the comfortable volumes and the use of color, allows the usage in any moment of the day without unpleasant slippages in the banal or, even worse, in the slovenliness. Zucca respects the even more hasty and concrete rhythms, speeds up the wardrobe, does not engage with exorbitant costs and cultivates discreet aesthetics, appreciated when they are so easily put on.

Zucca Fall/Winter 2017-2018

Zucca Fall/Winter 2017-2018

Zucca Fall/Winter 2017-2018

Zucca Fall/Winter 2017-2018

A tour around our Fall/Winter 2017-2018 selection, following the few minutes of our footage from the Paris showroom, can help one imagine herself inside heavy coats, from technical padded jackets to long coats in organic cotton, knitwear in its various weights, to printed dresses or decorated with georgette for the occasions that requires more femininity.

Zucca show-room

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Junya Watanabe S/S Collection 2017

We always underlined the Junya Watanabe’s peculiar interpretative ability in establishing, in the form of dress, the predominant stresses of our time. Post-modern, cyber-punk, tailor-philosopher of an age crossed by very fast transformations, where, from collection to collection, plastics and brand new materials, parts of abandoned industrial landscapes, occurred, to give shape to his personal metabolization and to his interpretation of the contemporaneity.

With the Spring / Summer 2017 is the fierce spirit of the Japanese designer, produced by Comme des Garçons Maison, to manifest itself in the sunny morning walkway of Palais du Tokyo. Deafening hard-rock music accompanies the proud and hurried pace of bewildering metropolitan warriors, evidently intolerant towards an increasingly thorny and demanding present, exceedingly conformist.

To reinforce the rhythm are the classical decorative elements of the punk movement: crests and other disheveled and colorful hairstyles, tattered leggings and hyper-skimpy mini-skirts.

Junya Watanabe S/S Collection 2017

Photo by Vogue

Junya Watanabe S/S Collection 2017

Photo by Vogue

Junya Watanabe S/S Collection 2017

Photo by Vogue

But the Watanabe quat is not slavish and nostalgic, but provocative and pungent. The cue becomes an opportunity to continue with origami exercises, the textiles module is pyramidal, the threatening metal edges of studs and piercings gain lightness and grace in organza processing, up to the extremes such as a stellar westcoat, not by chance pale pink , returning in serious synthetic leather bags and accessories.

Junya Watanabe S/S Collection 2017

The oscillation between the opposite poles: serious and mild, warlike and docile, composes and articulates the collection. On one side the impetus and vigor of oversize volumes, such as sweatshirts, parca and t-shirt and on the other side the feminine silhouette clearly defined by unexpected draperies, generated by semi-invisible seams, floral bouquet and more accommodating fabrics, like organza and georgette.

Junya Watanabe S/S Collection 2017

Junya Watanabe S/S Collection 2017

Junya Watanabe S/S Collection 2017

Against all odds and reference, the two extremes coexist in a new aesthetic balance, where the mutual control and enhancement generates the most unexpected and unlikely punk expression, poetry!

Junya Watanabe S/S Collection 2017

Junya Watanabe S/S Collection 2017

Find more regarding IVO MILAN Radical Fashion‘s choice directly from Place Vendôme – Paris show-room:

 

Junya Watanabe S/S Collection 2017

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