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Daniela Gregis FW 2021-2022

It’s all hand finished!

That’s what said one of the more expert tailors of the city while caressing with great care the endless length of the rim to be adjusted, bottom part of a cashmere coat so soft to the touch that fully captured her skilled sensitivity.

 

Even if Marta is pretty used to our ‘never-seen items’, with some pride I’ll say her: ‘Yes, it’s a Daniela Gregis’ coat, she works like that!

 

Actually it’s not usual for the items of the designer from Bergamo to arrive to the tailor’s shop. Fit and proportions are so comfortable that they never need adjustments, and instead of removing even a single inch from her precious fabrics, it’s more usual to use the eyelets applied to the sides to fix a rim, and adjust the length with new creativity.

But that ice melange coat could not risk to be stepped on up and down the bridges in Venice, during the morning runs, or just put on the shoulder during the daily working routine of its lucky owner.

Daniela Gregis’ items have an amazing peculiarity: you can wear them, even considering their precious compositions, in everyday life.

When you’re in a hurry or when you’re fully distracted, they will never embarrass you! They’re interchangeable, they can be worn inside out, back to front or, for coats in general, even upside down. This is due to their construction which is designed from the very beginning, with patterns and fabrics, doubled or alternate, changing according to how they are worn. Thanks to all accurate and full finishing, Gregis’ clothes still keep a constant balance in all solutions, even the most unexpected.

Daniela Gregis FW 2021-2022

In an apparently joyful attitude, her last collection, called Tintinba – evocative onomatopoeic sound of fragile instruments which, when in contact, can change into elementary and casual melodies – the Gregis’ creations offer infinite hypotheses and chromatic proposals, in fabrics and shapes, not sketched at all.

 

Harmonies can be composed with a unique complicity between colour themes and its best material creation: velvet, cashmere, silk, cotton, gauze, and so on. Each fibre assumes a pictorial and expressive responsibility becoming the interpreter of dominant seasonal feelings: the indefinite blue of winter skies, hot tones of strong chestnuts, cold notes of future and desired seasonal frosts.

 

That awareness can be found in textures and woven outlines in different colours, in the hugs of indifferent movements of stiff velvet and calm cashmere gauze, in the wrinkles of washed fabrics, from houndstooth to tone-on-tone patterns, to flawless and wide melange coils, from definitive silk, grabbed to rounded stitching, until stretched wool.

Daniela Gregis FW 2021-2022

Daniela Gregis FW 2021-2022

Daniela Gregis FW 2021-2022

Daniela Gregis FW 2021-2022

Daniela Gregis FW 2021-2022

Daniela Gregis FW 2021-2022

A show that starts little by little, because the creation is slow and fatiguing, and the season – we all know it – is the longest one…

Daniela Gregis Full Fashion Show FW 2021-2022

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Shu Moriyama coat

We have already had the opportunity to meet Shu Moriyama before, and those who visited our store in Padua in the last years could know his work, his textile and styling know-how originating from his experience at the unique ateliers of Yohji Yamamoto, whom he cooperated with before launching his own collection, under his own name.

Shu Moriyama and wife

As a generous participant in this transitioning moment in our working experience, Shu shows us his S/S 2021 suggestions.

 

With a typical Japanese approach, the horizon from which he gets his own inspiration is far away from the influences of western fashion, more focused on commercial inputs and linked to seasonal trends bringing to fast obsolescence. Shu’s view melts with trees, flowers and fruits, in an effort of abstraction which gives origin to the pleats of his comfortable crinkled fabrics, with small dots recalling petals, some times tone on tone, some others more showy.

 

Shu-Moriyama-inspiration

Shu Moriyama drawing

The wide spaces of Normandy, his land of adoption, are the background where his delicate clothes take form, designed with hidden elegance, more to put people at ease than to surprise in an impressive way. Poetry is not showed off, but it’s outlined with soft tones in fabric shades, in the embrace of shawl collars, in drop sleeves usually narrower at the bottom, in the chance of wearing many coats upside down, changing the final look.

 

Shu Moriyama tree inspiration pleats

Shu Moriyama pleats dress Spring Summer 2021

Dresses, jackets, coats, skirts, and trousers, are all designed with comfort and pragmatism in mind, thanks to the elasticity of a polyester that keeps the crinkled effect in time and warrants excellent fit performance, and, more simply, to very easy maintenance, since they can be washed in washing machine with no ironing.

Shu Moriyama IVO MILAN outfitShu Moriyama Spring Summer 2021 pleats jacket IVO MILAN

An alternative – less explicit and identifiable – to the more popular plated fabric of Issey Miyake, with a more reserved and calm accent, the one of Shu Moriyama, a visionary artisan to the utmost extremes for France and fashion.

 

Shu Moriyama Spring Summer 2021 pleats jacket IVO MILAN

Find the collection on our website!

 

Many thanks to Shu Moriyama for pictures and drawings and to Sari for the photograph shooting.

 

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Boboutic was born in the year 2000 from the close collaboration between the designer Michel Bergamo and the architect and photographer Cristina Zamagni, today both professors of Fashion Design at the IUAV University of Venice.

From its headquarter in Florence the brand develops, starting from the idea of the yarn as an infinite line to be respected in its whole extension, a knitting that leaves out as much as possible the use of the scissors.

Inserted in this perfect frame the knitting becomes a surface with features similar to those of a fabric, more of a flat space rather than a three-dimensional one, upon which the creative mind of the two designers can be engaged in countless experiments and creative techniques. From the creation of the machinery to the production of the fabric everything is studies and achieved inside the Maison, starting from the hanks of:

-wool,
-yak,
-mohair,
-polyamide, etc.

intertwined as desired according to the project of the ongoing season.

From the barbed, to the tweed and pinstripe, from the outerwear, dubbed to increase its thermal properties, to the lurex raffia, a material designed for travel, very light and with a strong visual impact, we are always talking of knitting. Lines that are inspired by the most international daily life, with a discreet visual impact, because each garment is created, in its excellence, in a long-lasting perspective, that will not tire and that will fall in perfect balance on the daily bases.

The inters of Michel and Cristina towards other artistic disciplines has pushed Boboutic, through the years, towards important collaborations, among which:

-Fanny & Alexander,

-Kinkaleri,

-Marco Mazzoni,

-Jacopo Miliani,

-Davide Savorani e Zapruder filmmakersgroup, etc

involved, from time to time, in the realization of works testimonial of the philosophy of each collection.

 

Present, by now, in the most prestigious boutiques all over the world, the made in Italy by Boboutic lacks only a long waited issue, capable of spreading the know-how and experience gained through years of very intense experimentation, creating awareness among the audience otherwise unaware of the constructive complexity that lies behind every garment.

 

 

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marc-le-bihan-aw-2019-dress

When crossing the threshold of the 25th Henry Monnier rue, between Pigalle and Mont-Martre, a carpet of black sounding stones marks the sudden passage to another dimension.

There is no longer the Paris of the Marais and Fashion Week, there are no more runs in the subway, no longer the unprecedented modernity of electric scooters, but a relaxed, yet overwhelming, bohemien suggestion that takes over in Marc Le Bihan‘s and Jean François Mimilla boutique/showroom.

And there we have the furnishings, the tables full of bijoux, rings, necklaces, the lights, accomplices of strenuous plays of shadows that amplify the extremely wide range of the collection, displayed in order of color, fabric and shape. Everything mingles with the items of the historical archive of Marc Le Bihan, a designer who is closely tied to his creative path and who has remained coherent over time.

His work is carried out in constant continuity with the performances of the early years, starting from the nineties when he was fascinated by the language of the great Japanese designers and the first Margiela. We need a lot of attention to distinguish the novelties within the dense presentation, the catalog remains continuous, it expands from season to season and every new outfit can request to be completed with pieces from the archive.

The languid poetic silhouette that emphasizes and brings up the shoulders and hips, together with the recurrent tulle, a magnificent tribute to Degas’ sensual dancers, mixes with its opposite and becomes harsh, with raw cut finishes, with the presence of black, disassembled and reassembled on fabrics with a much stronger character, accentuated by the washes that wrinkles the initial composure. The research is concentrated on the cultural evocations of the early twentieth century, from tait shapes, to antiqued jacquard fabrics, to deliberately excessive lengths and drapes. Everything comes together to outline a femininity on the border between two souls, an elegant haute couture one and the other shabby, at the limit of decadence.

marc-le-bihan-aw-2019-skirt

marc-le-bihan-aw-2019-5-gilet

marc-le-bihan-aw-2019-6-jacket

marc-le-bihan-aw-2019-4-knitwear

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marc-le-bihan-aw-2019-1-jacket

marc-le-bihan-aw-2019-2-knitwear

The world of Marc Le Bihan is melancholy, it revives memories repressed by the speed of time and technological isolation, bringing back the intensity of an era still full of relationships and passionate conversations, accompanied by a good wine and the joie de vivre!

 

Come with us in the atmosphere of the Paris showroom as usual with our video…

 

Take a look online!

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issey-miyake-precollection-fw-2019-detail-dress-2

New insights around the Issey Miyake Resort, a line of the Issey Miyake Maison that, first of all, launches the debut of the new Winter Season. Presented during the Paris Fashion Week for the 2019 summer, therefore with an abundant year ahead of its release in the stores, the collection always offers a few, nonetheless extraordinary, examples of the textile and formal art of the Miyake Design Studio. From steam stretch to tone-on-tone textures, polyester fiber reveals all its artistic and practical potential.

The coils of clothes, sweaters and jackets take on poetic directions, diagonal lines intersect with circular and undulating motifs, they escape from the usual two-dimensionality of the fabrics and pursue, reinforcing each other, the innumerable chromatic components. The ability to manipulate so many compositional techniques, without ever degenerating into decorative drifts, reveals an inexhaustible creative exuberance together with a very rare understanding of the most prominent requirements of a special dress: to not oppress!

issey-miyake-precollection-fw-2019-jackets-details

issey-miyake-precollection-fw-2019-violet-jacket

issey-miyake-precollection-fw-2019-jacket-green

The exceptional nature of these garments lies in presenting themselves as works of great scenographic momentum, but, at the same time, of incredible lightness and elasticity. When worn their aesthetic charge – able to distort ones self perception – does not afflict the movement limiting it within a coercive structure, as often happens with clothes for big occasions, but on the contrary, it gives an unprecedented freedom, generating a perception of immediate ease and naturalness.

issey-miyake-precollection-fw-2019-dress

issey-miyake-precollection-fw-2019-dress

Even in less theatrical expressions, the focus is always on avoiding obviousness, constraints, both of movement and maintenance (practically everything can be washed in a washing machine), but more than anything and more than any other company, the challenge of the Maison Miyake is in the constant solicitation for the most fulfilling of feelings: joy.

The joy of seeing oneself renewed by a change of clothes, illuminated by carefully dosed colors and strategic silhouettes, capable of enhancing the strengths and disguising the weaknesses, the joy of seeing oneself, suddenly and radically, protagonists of a stateless and international contemporaneity.

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issey-miyake-recollection-fw-2019-jacket-bw

issey-miyake-precollection-fw-2019-jacket-detail

issey-miyake-precollection-fw-2019-red-jacket

 

As always, an opportunity to appreciate the discovery is to accompany you into his show-room in Paris…

video-youtube-isseymiyake-precollection-fw-2019-showroom

Find the New Pre-Collection online


 

 

 

 

 

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