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pleats please

How many times in the shop has an occasional and distracted adventurer started with this exclamation: “Oh, yes, Issey Miyake, the perfumes one!“.

An expression that, in all its naive purity, revealed the striking distance between our work as promoters and popularizers of the so-called Japanese school and the public actually reached in the city. Maybe it also happened simultaneously with one of the many windows focused on a futuristic garment by Issey Miyake. Each time, that sound confirms the long way still to go and the burning frustration of being misunderstood. Without triggering a competition between the world of perfumes and that of clothes, even those who are not in the trade know how much his story belonged to the latter, with perfume being a typical gadget of the most established designers.

Yet not in Padova.

Bringing Issey Miyake to the city 24 years ago, when the brand still did not have a generalized fame and his perfume did not yet exist, did not create status, but only circulated within evolved global niches. This meant an important acceleration towards complexity and an indisputable recognition to the shop. First of all, in order to present it, the space had to have the aesthetic ‘requisites’ compatible with the strict philosophy of the Maison, whose concern for the future, rather than sales and the diffusion of the brand, was aimed at the defense of its cultural prestige. The staff of the Parisian showroom came personally to make sure everything was set and then gave us the green light that the collaboration between Ivo Milan and the company could begin in 1998.

And it was immediatly a great love what would become a long adventure; a challenge on the edge of the most heated creative tension, interrupted only by the closure of the store in 2020 (at the time we could not imagine being able to reopen) and by the inevitable advance of other local competitors…

It is useless to dwell on the unmpteenth narrative around the work of Issey Miyake because there are more expert pens than us that have written and are writing about it. In our own small way, we have had more opportunities to present the brand in its different lines (Pleats Please, BaoBao, Issey Miyake-Fête, A-Poc, 132. 5, Cauliflower) and the satellite ones of the group (Haat, A-net with Final Home, Plantation and Zucca). Since we have worked with all of them for a long time, we wanted to put a particular focus on the one that bears his name, offering it in its most daring, free and joyful expressions. We believe that bringing witness to this propulsive collaboration is the least we can do to the many people who, spontaneously, in these days, have contacted us to thank us for allowing them the opportunity to be so close to the best of Issey Miyake.

An overview of photos, articles, videos (many on our youtube channel) about this long journey together, with all the gratitude to the poetry that it has brought to our work… Thank you!


 

 

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daniela-gregis-dress-ss-2018

Daniela Gregis

 

While winter insists in the slow progress of Febbruary, the new collections already anticipate a spring glimpse. The first deliveries of Issey Miyake, Pleats Please, Shu Moriyama and Boboutic, accelerate the calendar projecting us on milder temperatures, longer days and more radiant colors, teasing a yearning for change, for a radical aesthetic renewal now dulled by winter routines.

 

Every day the catalog of Spring/Summer 2018 collection expands … new photos, new arrivals and new discoveries!

daniela-gregis-cardigan-ss-2018

Daniela Gregis

daniela-gregis-dress-particular-ss-2018

Daniela Gregis

issey-miyake-jacket-ss-2018

Issey Miyake

issey-miyake-dress-ss-2018

Issey Miyake

forme-d-expression-outft-ss-2018

Forme D’Expression

casey-casey-dress-ss-2018

Casey Casey

boboutic-dress-ss-2018

Boboutic

boboutic-overcoat-ss-2018

Boboutic

zucca-collection-ss-2018

Zucca – Japan

zucca-skirt-ss-2018

Zucca – Japan

trippen-shoes-ss-2018

Trippen – Berlin

Find the New Collection Spring/Summer 2018 online

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Issey Miyake Inc.

Among the uninitiated, even today the name of the most futuristic Maison of the prêt-à-porter is associated with a fragrance, Eau d’Issey.

An unexplained and paradoxical binomial if we enter in the huge and hyper-technological textile production which, for nearly half a century, has identified the Issey Miyake brand. Not only the company is the owner of several other brands, including Pleats Please, BaoBao, Cauliflower, 1 3 2.5, etc., but mostly remains in the spotlight of the largest contemporary art museums and in many of the most prestigious magazines and publications of art, architecture and design.

Issey Miyake Cartier Fondation

 

The reasons for such authoritative and frequent awards are undoubtedly in the extension of the boundaries that normally establishes the matter of the work, the fabric, turning it into plastic fiber par excellence, on which to intervene with all the complexity and ideational freedom of creating, responding also to very simple starting questions: agility of movement, comfort and of course, aesthetics.

If the expression that best frames the Miyake Design Studio work, a laboratory that concentrates engineering and informatics geniality, is the plissé, today you must dig into its various realizations, in its constant connection between form and color. On one side we have the ‘steam-stretch’ method that, simplifying, uses steam heat to emphasis the fold, often recognizable by spiral swirls that cover the garment, whether it is a dress, jacket or shirt. On the other hand, we have the last and most complex ‘baked stretch’ method, where the object of formal definition of the finished object occurs through an ingenious combination of pigments laid on the polyester, entering then in special ovens, following the three-dimensional development of the final article through an yeasting phenomenon.

The synthesis of these experiments can seem easy to understand if one only ignores that, in both cases, the teams work on garments that have already been manufactured and which will be in their final and definitive shape after undergoing the textile treatment.

The idea that the clothing can become artistic occasions to all intents and purposes and its demonstration in the abstractions concretized in Issey Miyake products, explain the interest of the specialized press towards the Maison, the honor of being exhibited in major contemporary art galleries and, probably, the opposite unpreparedness of the general public, alien to all that the media does not strongly advertise to make it simple and recognizable.

Issey Miyake Exhibition at the National Art Center in Tokyo

The images below show examples of both steam stretch and baked stretch methods. Both, having as basic material the polyester, are suitable to be worn both in winter and in summer, in the first case by layering, in the second, of course, maintaining the starting nudity.

But you can observe other poetic manifestations of the Maison in the meshes, with the cosmos pattern hand-dyed and then transferred to the silk-effect plissé, or in the extraordinary cotton and polyester fresco overcoat, where the smooth canvas meets in continuity the elastic folds of the pleated sides, that have the purpose of giving greater movement of the torso and arms.

The weak differentiation between autumn/winter and spring/summer is a further demonstration of the extreme functionality and usability of this clothing, thought-out to solve the most common problems: being on the road, in different weather conditions; the ease in cleaning; the impossibility of ironing; the long use in one day, punctuated from the daily routine in the morning to the evening times of greater social exchange.

Issey Miyake Fall-Winter Collection 2016-17

Issey Miyake Fall-Winter Collection 2016-17

Issey Miyake Fall-Winter Collection 2016-17

Issey Miyake Fall-Winter Collection 2016-17

Issey Miyake Fall/Winter Collection 2016-17

Issey Miyake Fall-Winter Collection 2016-17

 

Find online the Issey Miyake Collection on our website:

http://www.ivomilan.com/en/Tutte_le_collezioni-0/All-0/ISSEY_MIYAKE-47/e-shop.htm

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Issey, Miyake, Purses, FW16

Vague, already clear and precise or no ideas at all?

 

An high-tech and hyper-radiant BaoBao? An hand-knitted or printed with rollers and airbrushes cashmere? Or hard-to-find and alchemic fragrances? Or, why not, unforgettable multi-layers scarves, warm and ornamental? But also less recognizable accessories for the everyday life or on the contrary guessed marvels to be kept on our side for the best moments…

 

Essentially, even this year we are arrived on time to the period ritual question: What am I giving to…? But it could be even more immediate and self-rewarding: What I wish to gift me…?

 

Believing that, using the words of an illustrious supporter of our online experience,

 

The aesthetic is an important part of the good being, of the gestures and even of the battles…

 

we suggest you a catalogue of ideas and possibilities that, as usual, could be wrapped in the dedicated and exclusive Sari’s packaging, Heart-Box

 

Daniela, Gregis, Jacket, Coat, FW16

Daniela Gregis wide coat in smooth cotton velvet, single-breasted, shirt neck with button, cuff-lenght sleeve, two flap pockets, buttons covered with fabric closure, slits on the cuffs.

Daniela Gregis double wool crêpe jacket with dark ‘storm’ printing, flat lapels with ‘staggered puzzle’ edges, two welt pockets, trapeze line.

Issey, Miyake, Jacket, Steam, Streatch, FW16

Issey Miyake wide jacket in narrow wave steam-stretch pleated polyester with a multicolored optical effect, double-breasted with lapels, two buttons closure, ¾ flared sleeve, asymmetric hem, voluminous on the back.

Un-Namable long and asymmetric skirt in a paper effect polyester fabric, with pleats in different directions, with press buttons.

Andrea, Cortella, Knitwear, AW16

Andrea Cortella asymmetric sweater in stitched Cashwool extra fine Merino wool with rounded neck draped on the shoulder, knitted band at the bottom, on the cuffs and on the neck, straight line.

Daniela Gregis wide trousers in heavy cotton canvas, belt loops with belt, turned-up at the hem, welt pockets on the side and on the back, open flap with elastic band.

Bao, Bao, Issey, Miyake, FW16

Bao Bao Issey Miyake small shoulder bag made of polish PVC and polyurethane plates, adjustable shoulder strap, zip closure, open internal pocket, lined, h 16 cm x l 23 cm.

Bao, Bao, Issey, Miyake, FW, 2015, Tokolom

Classic Bao Bao squared shopper bag made of polish PVC and polyurethane TOKOLO plates with a Rubix cube effect on polyester net, adjustable handles, zip internal pocket, h 34 cm x l 34.

Comme, des, Garçons, Perfumes

Comme, des, Garçons, Perfumes

Comme, des, Garçons, Perfumes


Comme des Garçons perfumes.


Stephen, Jones, Perfum

WISTERIA HYSTERIA Stephen Jones – eau de toilette.

Vivienne, Westwood, Mantero, Scarves

Vivienne Westwood Mantero big scarves in acrylic and wool big thread loom weft with squares pattern, fringes along the edges, l 200 cm x h 55 cm.

Mantero, Vivienne, Westwood, Scarf

Vivienne Westwood big scarf in very light new wool and silk gauze with Union Jack printing, small fringes along the edges, l 132 cm x h 100 cm.

Cauliflower, Issey, Miyake, Scarves, FW16

Issey Miyake Cauliflower wide scarves with zig zag edges in rayon and polyester with a fustian touch, extremities in contrasting colours, l 150 cm x h 40 cm.

Gudrun, Gudrun, Wool, Scarves, AW16

Gudrun & Gudrun large scarf with long fringes in hand-knitted alpaca, multicolour from grey to white at the extremities.

Gudrun-Gudrun-Wool-Hoods-FW16

Gudrun & Gudrun heavy hand-knitted alpaca neck with hood, stitched on the neck.

Reinhard, Plank, Hats, FW16

Reinhard Plank hats.

Gudrun-Gudrun-Sweater-Trippen-Shoe-FW16

Gudrun & Gudrun wide sweater in hand-knitted virgin wool, mohair and alpaca with a patchwork of different workings and colours on the neck, slightly flared.

Trippen ankle boot in soft cowhide leather with laces and stripes on a side, classic no-slip rubber sole with rounded toe.

Pleats, Please, Issey, Miyake, Padded, Jacket, T-shirt, FW16

Pleats Please Issey Miyake hip-length down padded jacket in shiny polyester, turtle-neck, snap buttons closure, two side welt pockets.

Pleats Please Issey Miyake t-shirt in vertical pleated polyester with faded roller printing, long bat sleeve, soft turtle-neck, large along the bodice and fitted at the bottom.

Issey, Miyake, Purses, FW16

Issey Miyake small bucket bag in bicolour stiff soften and shiny polyester pleating, origami shape with three-dimensional star effect, string closure, small leather shoulder strap.

Daniela, Gregis, Pink, Red, Coat

Daniela Gregis reversible wide pea coat in mohair wool on a side and in circles quilted nylon on the other, crew-neck with half-moon back flap, small slits on the cuffs, two welt pockets with inside holes where is possible insert a belt to close the pea coat.

Daniela, Gregis, Bag, FW16

Daniela Gregis wool crochet rectangular shopper bag with silk and cotton ribbons in different colour, two short double handles, h 28 cm x l 46 cm x d 30 cm approximately.

Anrealage, Light, Collection, FW16, Jacket

Anrealage, Light, Collection, FW16, Jacket, Detail

Anrealage long jacket in black and white polyester and rayon graffito on a velvet effect base, single-breasted with lapels, button closure, two patch pockets, flounces on the sides and at the bottom, welt small breast pocket.

Anrealage, Light, Collection, FW16, Detail

Anrealage short trench in wool cloth with light circle imprinted at the centre, double-breasted with flaps and lapels emerging from the fabric, gorget patches on the shoulders, back yoke, 2 vertical welt pockets, 2 welt inner pockets.

Heart, Box, Packaging

Heart, Box, packaging

Heart, Box, Packaging

Heart, Box, Packaging

Heart, Box, Packaging

Heart, Box, Packaging

Heart, Box, Packaging

Heart, Box, Packaging

Photography by Sari Milan.

 


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miyake-issey-tokyo-exhibition

Teamwork, environmental ethos, experimentation and strong pragmatism, light and joy, the guidelines of a Maison built around the enlightened principles of its founder, Issey Miyake.

Issey Miyake Autumn/Winter 2015-16: runway show finale.

Against the perishing and obsolete destiny of fashion, against the fact that clothing reduces itself to a simply instrument of status and wealth affirmation, Miyake firmly believes in the rational and spacial nature of dressing up. The dress exists in function of the physicality of whom will wear it, it’s bounded to people life and daily movement. So it must match innovation and comfort criteria, because our existences proceed into space and time.

Pleats, Please, AW 2015-16

Pictures from the Pleats Please Autumn/Winter 2015-16 catalogue.

In opposition to the ‘designer mythicization’, Miyake put together a team of experts that goes ahead and experiments through the continuous exchange of information and skills. In fact only the contamination of ideas and the flow of consciousness could generate that innovation levels already became exclusive heritage of Miyake Maison.

Machines at work in Miyake Design Studio: pictures from ‘Pleats Please Issey Miyake, published by Taschen.

The creative process starts trying to solve three fundamental problems: to minimise the industrial waste starting from just one piece of fabric; to give back the three-dimensionality of the human body through the fabric bi-dimensionality and to guarantee to the other people practicality, movement and an exclusive perception of the self. Inside this frame it has developed the engineering and textile experimentations that brought to the realization of the already very famous pleating. During four decades Miyake together with its staff tested new materials, invented formal abstractions only made possible by the infinite fabric plasticity and by the high-tech machines built up over time. With the different lines, from the one carrying his name that shows the most avant-garde and poetic experimentations of the new steam stretch pleating, to Pleats Please, to Cauliflower, developed in just one size, to the Bao Bao bags, where the triangle modular repetition is the remarkable sign of an highly futuristic project, or moreover the latest 132 5. Issey Miyake (available in our shop from next Spring/Summer), in recycled pet, pressed like origami paper, Issey Miyake and his Design Studio are ambitious guests of the most prestigious contemporary art galleries.

Issey, Miyake, AW 2015-16, Fashion Show

Issey Miyake Autumn/Winter 2015-16

Issey, Miyake, 132 5, Origami, Line

132 5. Issey Miyake

So we can’t be taken away from point out, for whom will have the chance to be in Tokyo between next March and next June, the unmissable exhibition hold at the National Art Center:

MIYAKE ISSEY EXHIBITION: The Work of Miyake Issey

One of the most complete overview of Issey Miyake work and on the solutions, always in evolution, developed by his prolific creative team. And for the very first time the complex productive processes that allow the realization of the different expression of the most famous pleating will be shown and explained.

An overview from our catalogue Autumn/Winter 2015-16:

Issey, Miyake, Coat, Bao, Bao, Bag, Aw15

Issey Miyake calf-length coat in wool and polyester squares with a ribbon effect, shirt neck, two buttons closure, two welt pockets, lined.

Bao Bao Issey Miyake big squared shopper bag made by polish PRISMA PVC triangular plates repeated trough an origami calculation on a polyester base, double adjustable handles, big inner zip pocket, l 39 cm x h 39 cm.

Y’s Yohji Yamamoto tight leg jeans trousers in creased cotton canvas, 2 welt vertical pockets, 3 patch pockets on the back with and 2 overlapped, belt loops, zip and button closure.

Vivienne Westwood Mantero big scarf in very light new wool and silk gauze with Union Jack printing, small fringes along the edges, l 132 cm x h 100 cm.

Trippen ankle boot in soft cowhide leather with laces and stripes on a side, classic no-slip rubber sole with rounded toe.

Issey, Miyake, Shawl, Unamable, Skirt, Aw15

Issey Miyake rectangular shawl in steam stretch pleated polyester and polyurethane with a kaleidoscope effect, buttons on the four points, wearable both sides and in many different ways, h 70 cm x l 130 cm.

Un-Namable long and asymmetric skirt in a paper effect polyester fabric, with pleats in different directions, with press buttons.

Trippen ankle boot in soft suede cowhide leather, with a comma elastic both sides of the ankle, with 2 shells sole.

Issey, Miyake, Skirt, AW, 2015-16

Issey Miyake skirt in stiff and narrow pleated polyester with a crystal effect, elastic band at the belt, wide and flared line, two welt pockets, wearable as a cape.

Trippen ankle boot in soft suede cowhide leather, with a comma elastic both sides of the ankle, with 2 shells sole.

Issey, Miyake, Trousers, Jacket, AW15

Issey Miyake ribbed steam stretch pleated polyester jacket, wide shawled lapels, fitted at the waist, button closure.

Issey Miyake wool and polyurethane crêpe stretch trousers with contrasting colour belt, two diagonal pockets, two welt pockets on the back, diagonal panel stitched on the front, two buttons and zip side closure, soft line.

Trippen ankle boot in soft suede cowhide leather, with a comma elastic both sides of the ankle, with 2 shells sole.

Issey, Miyake, Sweater, Trousers, AW15

Issey Miyake straight pleated top with diagonal multicolour pattern, long bat sleeve, V neck, rounded hem.

Issey Miyake wool and polyurethane crêpe stretch trousers with contrasting colour belt, two diagonal pockets, two welt pockets on the back, diagonal panel stitched on the front, two buttons and zip side closure, soft line.

Issey, Miyake, Sweater, AW15

Issey Miyake long top in  melange narrow wave pleated polyester and wool, V neck, egg line.

A punto B low crotch and low waist trousers in heavy cotton, zip and button closure, wide and moulded slightly tightening at the bottom, two vertical welt pockets.

‘Classic Trippen’ ankle boot in oiled suede cowhide leather with strings and small hooks, removable cork insole, rubber sole.

Issey, Miyake, Top , AW15

Issey Miyake top in horizontal narrow and grained bicolour pleated polyester, wide and doubled cowl neck, diagonal pleating on the breast till the sleeve.

Issey Miyake large balloon trousers in narrow wave pleated polyester, tighter at the bottom, elastic band at the belt, two side welt pockets.

Issey, Miyake, Scarf, Jacket, AW15

Issey Miyake squared shawl in stiff and narrow pleated polyester with a crystal effect, hole closure, h 80 cm x l 87 cm.

Issey Miyake hip-length jacket in stiff and narrow bicolour pleated polyester, single-breasted, lapels with detached points stitched on the neck, button closure, pointed sleeve on the cuffs, flared line.

Issey Miyake large balloon trousers in narrow wave pleated polyester, tighter at the bottom, elastic band at the belt, two side welt pockets.

Issey, Miyake, Pleated, Pea, Coat, AW 2015

Issey Miyake wide pea coat in  narrow wave pleated polyester with a multicolour optical effect, lapels, two buttons closure, ¾ flared sleeve, egg line.

Issey Miyake wool and polyurethane crêpe stretch trousers with contrasting colour belt, two diagonal pockets, two welt pockets on the back, diagonal panel stitched on the front, two buttons and zip side closure, soft line.

issey, Miyake, Jacket, Unamable, Skirt, AW15

Issey Miyake short and wide jacket in horizontal narrow and grained bicolour pleated polyester, single-breasted, shawl and doubled neck, button closure.

Un-Namable long and asymmetric skirt in a paper effect polyester fabric, with pleats in different directions, with press buttons.

Trippen ankle boot in soft suede cowhide leather, with a comma elastic both sides of the ankle, with 2 shells sole.

Issey, Miyake, Jacket, Trousers, AW15

Issey Miyake hip-length jacket in narrow wave pleated polyester with a multicolour optical effect, single-breasted with lapels, buttons closure.

Issey Miyake wool and polyurethane crêpe stretch trousers with contrasting colour belt, two diagonal pockets, two welt pockets on the back, diagonal panel stitched on the front, two buttons and zip side closure, soft line.

Trippen ankle boot in soft suede cowhide leather, with a comma elastic both sides of the ankle, with 2 shells sole.

Issey, Miyake, Jacket, Trousers, AW15

Issey Miyake bolero jacket in tridimensional pleated polyester, shawl neck with semi-circular edges pleating on the inside, button closure, ¾ flared sleeve.

Issey Miyake wool and polyurethane crêpe stretch trousers with contrasting colour belt, two diagonal pockets, two welt pockets on the back, diagonal panel stitched on the front, two buttons and zip side closure, soft line.

Issey, Miyake, Dress, AW15

Issey Miyake calf-length asymmetric dress in horizontal narrow and grained bicolour pleated polyester, wide and doubled cowl neck, diagonal pleating on the breast till the sleeve.

Trippen ankle boot in soft suede cowhide leather, with a comma elastic both sides of the ankle, with 2 shells sole.

Issey, Miyake, A-Poc, Top, Trousers, AW15

Issey Miyake top in nylon and cotton A-poc bicolour fabric, asymmetric line, boat neck, flared sleeve, soften colours, frayed hem.

Issey Miyake stretch polyester and wool jeans-like trousers with small checks texture, two darts on the front, two side welt pockets, zip and button closure.

Trippen ankle boot in soft suede cowhide leather, with a comma elastic both sides of the ankle, with 2 shells sole.

Issey, Miyake, Bag, Tunic, AW15

Issey Miyake calf-length nylon and cotton A-poc bicolour tunic dress, ¾ sleeve, amphora line, boat neck.

Issey Miyake small bucket bag in bicolour stiff soften and shiny polyester pleating, origami shape with three-dimensional star effect, string closure, small leather shoulder strap.

Trippen ankle boot in soft suede cowhide leather, with a comma elastic both sides of the ankle, with 2 shells sole.



 

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