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Marchi

The aesthetic dimension of the showcase…

We have spent many years arranging our shop window as the natural showcase for the collections that change from season to season inside the store. It is a sort of metaphysical space in which to display and show off the spectacular nature of certain apparel, and especially our own fanciful interpretation of these items. There is no way for us to be sure that the general feelings and ideas we have about the collections are conveyed in the best possible way, on the other hand, the designers themselves often leave out or simply refuse to express the possible connotations of their collections.

So that’s how it is, an entirely arbitrary composition that takes over the main window of the store each week, as well as the less imposing side windows and interior cases!

It is a general image that employs a precise aesthetic lesson provided by that singular and indefinable concept of beauty known as wabi-sabi; something that different forms of the so-called Japanese school expertly make use of in clothing. Greatly simplifying, we might say that wabi-sabi is the opposite of all that which in aesthetic terms we call ‘luxury’. Luxury is glitter, flashy and smacks of something new and artificial, it is easy to reproduce and make widely available; it has a simple and explicit message. The beauty of wabi-sabi remains open in every sense to the changing times, trends and events, making it impracticable, if not impossible, to replicate. In the words of Leonard Koren:

It is the beauty of things imperfect,

impermanent, and incomplete.

It is the beauty of things modest and humble.

It is the beauty of things unconventional.

Yohji Yamamoto, long train dress in organic cotton serge, flared shape, slit neck with pointed stand up top edge, front joke detail, sleeveless, horizontally cut at rear, tiered hem, row cut edges

Katrien Van Heckedress in hand dyed silk crepe, print realized with airbrush and natural colours come from spices and herbs, round neck, center gathering folds, short sleeves, rear zip fastening, slightly flared shape, knee length

Vlas Blomme, reversible jacket, one side in shiny linen and silk and melange linen on reverse, garment washed, notched collar, front button fastening, welt chest pocket, two front flap pockets, long sleeves with slit at the hem, small vent at back

Katrien Van Hecke, oversize bomber jacket in hand dye silk crepe, print realized with airbrush and natural colours come from spices and herbs, front zip fastening, collar and hem band in knit ribbed hemp blend, slanted welt pockets, silk lining

Rick Owens, long top in rayon and silk fine jersey, front draped at one side, straight shape, loose fit, rounded v neck, dropped shoulder, short sleeves, asymmetric front hem

Trippen, ballerina in vegetable-tanned calf leather, wax finish treated, fold detail on the vamp, two cups rubber outsole

Cauliflower-Issey Miyake, stretch honey comb pleated top in multicolor mosaic pattern printed, low round neck, dropped shoulder

Deux Dans Umi, asymmetric dress in polyester and viscose jersey, irregular curved cuts patterned with draped and embossed effect, asymmetric neck line, front slanted slit detail, sleeveless, row cut edges, shorter at the back

Vlas Blomme, melange linen with bar stripe back, wide fit, shawl collar, dropped shoulder, long tapered sleeves, no fastening, upside down wearable with longer effect

Bao Bao-Issey Miyake, tote bag in multicolor flexible glossy PVC triangles, black adjustable handle, interior zipped pocket; length: 34cm, height: 34cm, handle: 38cm

Photographs by Sari Milan

 

 

 

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The first impression one gets from Rei Kawakubo’s summer collection is that it is suited for the Tin Man from Frank L. Baum’s famous book, The Wizard of Oz. This impression is highlighted by eccentric tin hats sitting atop the heads of models with emotionless faces, whose make-up seems like it comes from another dimension, or another planet.

The daring genius of Comme des Garçons’ designer outlines the future for the Spring/Summer 2013 collection. The sculptural metal headdresses set the stage to present he conceptual value of the clothes in which each piece of clothing acts as a means to give form to something else in a veritable fashion meta-language. As simplified and superficial the message of the system may be, the more complex and structured Rei Kawakubo‘s proposals become.

Suits, vests, jackets and skirts made up of scraps and the leftover materials of other clothing, are sewn, layered and reassembled into contours that take shape with the extraordinary freedom of expression and incomparable skill of the clothier. Expertly crafted spiral lines, chaotic and yet balanced between solids and voids yield the profiles of T-shirts, jacket sleeves or surplus fabric that is then folded and crumpled to provide crafted, poetic origami effects.

Rei Kawakubo‘s exuberant creativity tailors pieces to be worn and interpreted according to personal preferences and feelings, making use of an aesthetic model of the most advanced contemporary artistic expressions, whose shape and structural uncertainty leave her work continuously open to  imagination!

and Sari, the photographer…

 

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During an interview given shortly before the Spring/Summer 2013 fashion show, Yohji Yamamoto said that he was not in the least interested in producing recognizable clothing styles bearing his name every season, but rather that he wished to approach the creative process as a new challenge each and every time, as an opportunity to try new things and break free of repetitive ideas. The obvious risk of getting it wrong and not being understood by his audience, if seen for just what it is and why, would not be so important to him.

His statement seems to anticipate a spring and summer collection that steers away from the intensely poetic and familiar styles that Yohji has accustomed his fans to in order to make way for something fresh and unexpected.

When taken in the context of the current season’s fashions, the words of the great Japanese master seem to be more of a confession from an artist observing his own creative powers. Despite what he said his creations possess the easily-recognizable quality features that have always identified his work. Asymmetries, unfinished profiles, inventive volumes, cuts and stitching that are much closer to the meticulous slowness of high fashion than serial prêt-à-porter approximations, make up an ambitious and spectacular Spring/Summer collection.


The working of the fabric and the unique dyes make use of the most ancient and rare of  traditional Japanese methods that have remained unaltered in the few workshops able to pass on a cultural heritage that is in danger of being lost. Unheard of colours, such as indanthrene blue (made by hand then, dyed and faded using a slow bleeding process that imbues the colour with a unique metallic-lava effect), intersect lines with avant-garde designs.


The dragons on the printed silks pay explicit homage to China and offer a personal invitation to immediate economic and cultural reconciliation.


Even the Western expression “sexy“, mediated by a more sober and respectful intellectualism, joins in the design vocabulary of a modern Yohji Yamamoto, aware that cultures are getting closer, in a syncretism that is impossible to ignore. With the nimbleness of a Bolshoi dancer, the masterful artist moves deftly between tradition and modernity, East and West, displaying with all his expert skill, how a philosopher-craftsman designs clothes.

Pictures by Sari Milan

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“[W]e find beauty not in the thing itself but in the patterns of shadows, the light and the darkness, that one thing against another creates”.

Junichiro TanizakiIn Praise of Shadows

It is no coincidence that at the last Salone del Mobile in Milan, these words of Tanizaki accompanied the lighting project In-Ei (Japanese for shadow, shading, nuance) designed by Issey Miyake and his Reality Lab and built by Artemide, which is now permanently housed in the Design section of the MoMa in New York.

Rooted in traditional Japanese aesthetics, the art of light and shadow has in fact always been at the centre of the technological and conceptual experimentation of Maison Issey Miyake. This shows respect for the heritage of the past that is comparable only to the same willingness to push the limits set by the material fabric.

Tania Braukamper of Fashionising.com, using an effective metaphor dedicated to the collection during the season, said:

Heritage is carried through, like a flame lit in the past that helps light the future: but it doesn’t dictate.


Designed by Yoshiyuki Miyamae, the creative director of the Maison, the Spring/Summer 2013 collection is a triumph of visual effects, lights, shadows and new three-dimensional micro-inlays. Geometric patterns, checks and diagonals serve as a link between creativity and mathematical analysis.

The pleats are enhanced, creating visual effects in which the perfection of the geometric formula applied to the fabric simulates the aesthetic imperfection (wabi-sabi) of deteriorating objects.


Shades of colour and small steps staggered in a grid effect transform the precision into fun, engaging the gaze in an amazement and wonder that only things never seen before can offer. Knits in continual metamorphosis as they react to the physical movement of the wearer or t-shirts and clothes made using extremely complicated techniques of casting and separating polyester, which can be seen from the moulded perimeter of contrasting colour.


Energetic hues celebrate a collection so exuberant and futuristic that it radiates energy and joy both to those who see and those who wear. Another generous lesson from Miyake!

Photos by  Sari Milan

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From Milan, our simple and personal reportage about Fall-Winter 2013-2014 Daniela Gregis collection…good show!!!

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