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Photo by Pascal Maucuit

Photo by Pascal Maucuit

On a rainy Saturday morning in Paris, with the town still sleeping, we run to the venue hosting the parade of Junya Watanabe: the faculty of pharmacology at Rue de l’Observatoire, exactly at the opposite end of the metro stop to which we have to go in the evening also for Comme des Garçons.

The rain, the time and the hurry to look for the fastest way to reach our destination do not favor the good humor, until, once into the mighty faculty salon, we are not awakened by a loud rock. The rhythm spurs for attention, the fierce gait of the models drags the present into an inevitable, and personal, reflection on fashion, on its utility or emptiness, and above all, it generates a real, widespread and more than ever palpable perception of uncontrollable enthusiasm.

Junya Watanabe Fall/Winter 2017-2018

As if the world suddenly recapture each potential, the possible silhouettes projected on Junya Watanabe‘s future Fall/Winter incite that desire for change that is the vulnus itself of fashion and the radicalism with which the Japanese designer staggers it is thrilling.

Faithful to his own ‘cyber’ vision of contemporaneity, Watanabe assembles materials with his typical origami form, which on this occasion we can recognize in the circle: calf hair, black leather, leopard spots, all strictly in synthetic leather, studs and pailletes re-compose patch-works of cultures and epochs of costume history of the most experimental forms. Excess is the guiding thread of deformed decorative elements, which not only outline unusual aesthetics, but also become part of and modify the human physical structure. Caps like sculptures, multicolored textile wigs, lacking any romantic poetics and built to defend any hypothetical attack, tunics that amplify the circularity of the chakras, coats shaped around the feminine figure with asymmetrical spheres, possible ultra-modern armors against the advancement of the creative nothing.

Junya Watanabe Fall/Winter 2017-2018

Junya Watanabe Fall/Winter 2017-2018

Junya Watanabe Fall/Winter 2017-2018

Junya Watanabe Fall/Winter 2017-2018

Junya Watanabe Fall/Winter 2017-2018

Junya Watanabe Fall/Winter 2017-2018

But the excess is finally cleaned, made accessible in the showroom choices, revealing how far it can go and how it can be traced back to the hectic daily life but still it remains a visionary exercise of pure and extraordinary contemporary textile art.

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Junya-Watanabe-F_W-2017-'18-detail-2.JPG

Before deepening the contents of the different collections for next Fall/Winter 2017-’18, we expect that the deliveries make us understand the full development of the Season. However, it’s already possible to immerse us in the Y’s Yohji Yamamoto‘s fiber shadows or in the brush strokes’ blocks of the gauzes and in the Daniela Gregis‘ cashmere made by the loom, or in the experimental tartan and in the synthetic leather of Junya Watanabe, with the muffled and futuristic padding by Comme Des Garçons.

Y'S-Yohji-Yamamoto-F_W-2017-'18-detail-1.JPG

Y'S-Yohji-Yamamoto-F_W-2017-'18-detail.JPG

Daniela-Gregis-F_W-2017-'18-detail-1

Daniela-Gregis-F_W-2017-'18-detail.JPG

Junya-Watanabe-F_W-2017-'18-detail-1.JPG

Junya-Watanabe-F_W-2017-'18-detail

Comme-des-Garçons-F_W-2017-'18-detail-1

Comme-des-Garçons-F_W-2017-'18-detail

A very close tour dedicated to who, in the middle of this August, want to be distracted by a dive to the sea or a walk in the mountains…

 

Find online the new collection on our website

 

 

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Daniela Gregis F/W 2017-'18

Like every year, when the summer becomes more torrid and the cities become open spaces kissed by the lion sun, silent and suspended in the vacancy leave of its inhabitants, the life of the shop intensifies with an unstoppable frenzy from winter deliveries.

Contrary to the outdoor sunny quietness, the internal rhythm is marked by the recurrence of well-established practices: opening the boxes, controlling and settling, thinking about the outfits and of we go with full-frame shooting. Punctual as always, indifferent to every reasonable and human contrast between what is happening inside and the outside immobility, between those who still work and those who leave for holidays, re-emerges the sentiment of sentiments: the enthusiasm!

Junya Watanabe F/W 2017-'18

Junya Watanabe F/W 2017-'18

Daniela Gregis F/W 2017-'18

Seing reappear, after months that have passed, the choices made during the shopping campaign, ponder upon serviceable items and marvel at those that will soon be celebrated in contemporary art museums, challenging the sultriness by putting on wool and cashmere, fabrics of the great cold, with terrible sandals on…

Daniela Gregis New Arrivals

 Comme des Garçons F/W 2017-'18

A game that repeats season after season, which reincarnates and affirms wonder and amazement, invites you to renew yourself, change your skin or simply change your dress!

Daniela Gregis F/W 2017-'18

Daniela Gregis F/W 2017-'18

Daniela Gregis F/W 2017-'18

Daniela Gregis F/W 2017-'18

Y'S Yohji Yamamoto F/W 2017-'18

Find online the new arrivals: http://www.ivomilan.com/en/nuove_collezioni-1/e-shop.htm

 

 

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Met - Exhibition Comme des Garçons

It has finally started the exhibition that the Costume Institute of the Metropolitan Museum of New York, the most important American institution in cultural context of fashion and costume, has dedicated to the work of the designer Rei Kawakubo, with Comme des Garçons.

For the second time in its history, MET reserves its space for a living creator (previously in 1983 with Yves Saint Laurent) and Art of the In-Between, inaugurated last 4 of May, has already been called ‘epochal’ for the deepness of the methodological analysis adopted.

“I have always pursued a way of thinking about design by denying established values, conventions, and everything that is generally accepted as a norm. I express myself through the concepts of fusion, imbalance, incompleteness, elimination, and the absence of an intent” has declared the designer (quote from Style Magazine n° 5 of May 2017)

An atypical operating method, mostly after placing it in the conforming and homologous context of the fashion system, governed, for its own survival, by the tendencies that, in order to be assimilated, must be made with easily comprehensible stylistic codes.

On the opposite, the Japanese designer has always created collections that needed to be metabolized and processed over long periods of time, encouraging personal and, most of all, not univocal interpretations. Immediate approval, for Rei Kawakubo, is just a reflection and confirmation of a failed job, as it is too simple.

 

Rei Kawakubo - Comme des Garçons

photo by Style Magazine

 

And again, in another famous statement:

“I create clothes for women who are not influenced by the opinion of their husbands”
emerges a significant distance from a way of understanding fashion as a practice to valorize two cardinal elements: the anatomy of the body and, no less important, the social status.

Rei Kawakubo dismantled, literally, these two goals. With her, the dress becomes, more than ever, an appendage of the thought and personality of the wearer, a possible element of a hypothetical philosophical dialogue between the self and the rest of the world. So it is no longer the way of showing curves and economic resources, but a powerful means of communication, expression and misguidance, an aesthetic exercise in all aspects, an extension of its own culture, creativity and reflexive complexity. The dress withdraws its seasonal recognition, acquiring an absolute timelessness. For the history of the costume, this is a revolution. Bold volumes, systematic asymmetries, stratifications, unfinished fraying, cuts and gashes in the most unexpected points, only some of the Comme des Garçons language traits.

 

The exhibition, curated by Andrew Bolton, staged 150 dresses organized in several thematic sections:

Fashion/Anti-Fashion
Self/Other
Design/Non Design
Model/Multiple
Then/Now
High/Low
Object/Subject
Clothes/Non Clothes

basically, the same antinomies posed by Rei Kawakubo in the series of different collections.

It is not overly affirmed that anyone who will not be able to go by September 4th at the MET to visit the magnificent show, besides the catalog available on the museum’s website, one can reasemble parts of the designer’s creative path with the help of our special room, online and live , in the Padua store.

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Scopri tutta la selezione online di Comme des Garçons nel nostro sito:

http://www.ivomilan.com/en/Tutte_le_collezioni-0/All-0/COMME_DES_GARCONS-48/e-shop.htm

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Junya Watanabe S/S Collection 2017

We always underlined the Junya Watanabe’s peculiar interpretative ability in establishing, in the form of dress, the predominant stresses of our time. Post-modern, cyber-punk, tailor-philosopher of an age crossed by very fast transformations, where, from collection to collection, plastics and brand new materials, parts of abandoned industrial landscapes, occurred, to give shape to his personal metabolization and to his interpretation of the contemporaneity.

With the Spring / Summer 2017 is the fierce spirit of the Japanese designer, produced by Comme des Garçons Maison, to manifest itself in the sunny morning walkway of Palais du Tokyo. Deafening hard-rock music accompanies the proud and hurried pace of bewildering metropolitan warriors, evidently intolerant towards an increasingly thorny and demanding present, exceedingly conformist.

To reinforce the rhythm are the classical decorative elements of the punk movement: crests and other disheveled and colorful hairstyles, tattered leggings and hyper-skimpy mini-skirts.

Junya Watanabe S/S Collection 2017

Photo by Vogue

Junya Watanabe S/S Collection 2017

Photo by Vogue

Junya Watanabe S/S Collection 2017

Photo by Vogue

But the Watanabe quat is not slavish and nostalgic, but provocative and pungent. The cue becomes an opportunity to continue with origami exercises, the textiles module is pyramidal, the threatening metal edges of studs and piercings gain lightness and grace in organza processing, up to the extremes such as a stellar westcoat, not by chance pale pink , returning in serious synthetic leather bags and accessories.

Junya Watanabe S/S Collection 2017

The oscillation between the opposite poles: serious and mild, warlike and docile, composes and articulates the collection. On one side the impetus and vigor of oversize volumes, such as sweatshirts, parca and t-shirt and on the other side the feminine silhouette clearly defined by unexpected draperies, generated by semi-invisible seams, floral bouquet and more accommodating fabrics, like organza and georgette.

Junya Watanabe S/S Collection 2017

Junya Watanabe S/S Collection 2017

Junya Watanabe S/S Collection 2017

Against all odds and reference, the two extremes coexist in a new aesthetic balance, where the mutual control and enhancement generates the most unexpected and unlikely punk expression, poetry!

Junya Watanabe S/S Collection 2017

Junya Watanabe S/S Collection 2017

Find more regarding IVO MILAN Radical Fashion‘s choice directly from Place Vendôme – Paris show-room:

 

Junya Watanabe S/S Collection 2017

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