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Yohji, Yamamoto, FW 2014, Backstage

Celtic harsh resonances support the presentation of a simply great Yohji Yamamoto’s Autumn/Winter collection, in an alternation of folk melodies suggesting the thematic references chosen for the coming season. Resolute in going into all the possible connections between the sartorial work and the artistic dimension, the great Japanese master embraces a narrative bond with the artist Yasuto Sasada, where form and colour converge in the same figurative imagery.

Yohji, Yamamoto, FW2014, Backstage

Yohji, Yamamoto, FW 2014, Backstage

Yohji, Yamamoto, FW 2014, Backstage

In fact both, one through the study of the volumes and of the formal structures of the garments, the other with the chromatic ability of the drawing, offer an amazing representation of that syncretism, typical of the Japanese culture, between traditional and contemporary elements. Printings of archaic mythological figures, in metamorphosis with ultracontemporary pop and manga references, overlap themselves with the plentiful dimensions of the outerwear.

Yohji, Yamamoto, FW 2014, Backstage

Yohji, Yamamoto, FW 2014, Backstage

Yohji, Yamamoto, Fw 2014, Backstage

Shapes evocating ancient social roles, fully-developed and made up-to-date with absolutely more modern times, thanks to an efficient balance between the fabric selection, from the wool to the cotton canvas, and the cutting-edge movement of the forms in the ever-present Yohji’s black.

Yohji, Yamamoto, FW2014, Backstage

Yohji, Yamamoto, FW2014, Backstage

Yohji, Yamamoto, FW 2014, Backstage

Yohji, Yamamoto, FW 2014, Backstage

If the urban streets show off replicants suffocated inside all the same skimpy padded coat, Yohji Yamamoto challenges the lazy and atavistic trend to homologation offering the possibility to distinguish the self inside garments conceived as first works, not only never seen before, but most of all heralding of thought, ideas and respect towards who would wear them.

Yohi, Yamamoto, FW 2014, Backstage

*All the pictures of the Backstage of Yohji Yamamoto A/W 2014-15 Fashion Show are by Elise Toïdé.


Yohji, Yamamoto, Yasuto, Sasada, FW2014

Yohji Yamamoto wide padded coat in heavy padded cotton, wide neck with hood, no buttons or zip closure, two vertical welt pockets.

Yohji Yamamoto classic twill trousers printed with artist Yasuto Sasada drawings, tight at the bottom, 2 front diagonal pockets and 2 welt pockets with small button on the back, zip and button closure, belt loops and inserted strap with buckle, lined.

Yohji, Yamamoto, Yasuto, Sasada, FW2014

Yohji Yamamoto wool gabardine coat with sewn padded scarf, crew-neck, high side zip, two horizontal pockets on the front, zip closure with double slider, wide line, lined.

Yohji Yamamoto classic twill trousers printed with artist Yasuto Sasada drawings, tight at the bottom, 2 front diagonal pockets and 2 welt pockets with small button on the back, zip and button closure, belt loops and inserted strap with buckle, lined.

Trippen black lace up shoes in vegetable-tanned calf leather treated with wax finish, wood wedge with para rubber sole.

Yohji, Yamamoto, Yasuto, Sasada, FW2014

Yohji Yamamoto jacket/shirt in printed twill with artist Yasuto Sasada drawings, high neck, double slider zip closure, raw cut outlines, upturned V side inserts in plain colour, under-sleeve with a long open band, 2 welt pockets.

Yohji Yamamoto man style trousers with low crutch in soft wool flannel, tight at the bottom, two diagonal pockets on the front, two flap pockets on the back, button and zip closure, belt loops.

Trippen black lace up shoes in vegetable-tanned calf leather treated with wax finish, wood wedge with para rubber sole.

Yohji, Yamamoto, Yasuto, Sasada, FW2014

Yohji Yamamoto wide coat in herringbone light twill in wool and polyamide, big padded neck, double slider zip closure, two welt side vertical pockets, but sleeve with opening and dropped panel, lined.

Yohji Yamamoto long dress in wool jersey and woollen cloth, slightly rolled up neck, two pockets with flaps on side panels, laid on top panels along the sleeves.

‘Classic Trippen’ ankle boot in bicolour cowhide leather, with strings and small hooks, removable cork insole, rubber sole.

Yohji, Yamamoto, Yasuto, Sasada, FW2014

Yohji Yamamoto cotton canvas long overcoat, single-breasted, hood, two symmetric vertical raw-cut stitchings on the front, two vertical pockets on the front, zip closure with double slider, metallic small unicorn and small bird of prey.

Yohji Yamamoto classic twill trousers printed with artist Yasuto Sasada drawings, tight at the bottom, 2 front diagonal pockets and 2 welt pockets with small button on the back, zip and button closure, belt loops and inserted strap with buckle, lined.

Trippen black lace up shoes in vegetable-tanned calf leather treated with wax finish, wood wedge with para rubber sole.

Yohji, Yamamoto, Yasudo, Sasada, FW2014

Yohji Yamamoto down pea coat in heavy cotton canvas, single-breasted, wide neck, 2 big patch pockets with 2 diagonal welt pockets laid upon them, longer on the back with upside down V central split, double slider zip closure.

Yohji Yamamoto long dress in wool jersey and woollen cloth, slightly rolled up neck, two pockets with flaps on side panels, laid on top panels along the sleeves.

Yohji, Yamamoto, Yasudo, Sasada, FW2014

Yohji Yamamoto short pea coat in cotton canvas and synthetic fur on the wide cushion neck and on the mittens, guru neck, double slider zip closure, 2 horizontal pockets with zip, padded collar badge, straight line, cotton lined.

Yohji Yamamoto long dress in wool jersey and woollen cloth, slightly rolled up neck, two pockets with flaps on side panels, laid on top panels along the sleeves.

Yohji, Yamamoto, Yasudo, Sasada, FW2014

Yohji Yamamoto jacket/pea coat in wool gabardine, doubled high neck, upside down V wool knitted side inserts, double slider zip closure. 2 side welt pockets, bat sleeve with opened under arms with dropped panel.

Yohji Yamamoto man shirt in cotton poplin with doubled trimmings folded near the neck.

Yohji Yamamoto man trousers with low crouch in soft wool and cotton tweed, tight at the bottom, two diagonal front pockets, two flap pockets on the back, closure with zip and buttons, belt loops.

Trippen high ankle boot in oiled suede cowhide leather with aged effect , double slider spiral zip around the ankle, staggered edging, removable cork insole, anti-slip rubber sole.

Yohji, Yamamoto, Yasudo, Sasada, FW2014

Yohji Yamamoto long dress in wool jersey and woollen cloth, slightly rolled up neck, two pockets with flaps on side panels, laid on top panels along the sleeves.

‘Classic Trippen’ ankle boot in bicolour cowhide leather, with strings and small hooks, removable cork insole, rubber sole.

 


 







 


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Sun, rain, hot, cold…It’s really difficult to decide what to wear when the weather is unsettled, maybe we are even far from home and it’s not possible to sheltered from sudden meteorological changes.

It’s hard especially if you don’t know the Final Home line. Offshoot of  the designer Kosuke Tsumura’s longstanding artistic endeavours, Final Home gives hint with its name of the idea at the basis of the project: it proposes to provide ultra practical piece of clothing that could become your shelter in case of natural disasters.  The functionality is so much identifying that it has been described as an extraordinary futuristic expression of style and function. Each Final Home jacket, overcoat, waistcoat is overall waterproof and very light to be brought along, but the intelligence is shown in the multi-zips which not only connote clearly the brand design but they have a specific function: to be filled up. In fact inside them it’s possible to put in padded ‘cushions’ that transform drastically the piece of clothing seasonal nature: from a mid-season raincoat to a winter padded jacket, or crumpled up newspaper pages to increase the windproof function. Actually inside the pockets made by the zips it’s possible to put in every kind of objects absolutely necessary to us or, when the article is made in see-through polyester, to use the “filling” as a decorative chance.

Awarded with countless recognitions, featured in different contemporary art exhibitions (among the last ones Future Beauty: 30 Years of Japanese Fashion in Tokyo), Kosuke Tsumura forms itself in the Miyake Design Studios and for several years had a hand in the Issey Miyake’s collections.

Future Beauty, Final Home

The school of the great Japanese master is wisely personalized in a timeless project, technologic and futuristic, practical and also poetic in its essential cheerfulness.

Final Home 2014

Final Home long padded unisex coat in see-through nylon canvas doubled with camouflage canvas in polyester and down, zip for ‘cushions’, coulisse at the waist, hood, double closure with zit and inner pressure buttons, inner wrist cuffs with elastic.

Final Home unisex blouson in cotton jersey on the outside and colour contrast metallic zip, hood, reflective polyester lining, two way zip closure, high band wrist cuffs, 2 vertical side pockets, padding can inserted in the zip.

Final Home long unisex coat in see-through and stiff polyester canvas, with zip for padded ‘cushions’ con zip or to be filled with objects and coloured paper, hood, coulisse at the waist, two way zip closure and inner pressure buttons.

Final Home unisex pea coat in see-through and stiff polyester canvas, with zip for padded ‘cushions’ con zip or to be filled with objects and coloured paper, hood, coulisse at the bottom, two way zip closure and inner pressure buttons.

Final Home unisex blouson-like waistcoat in polyester canvas, zip for the padded “cushions” only on the front, with hood, double closure: two way zip at the bottom and pressure buttons at the top, two vertical side pockets, bottom with band.

Final Home long unisex coat in see-through and stiff polyester canvas, with zip for padded ‘cushions’ con zip or to be filled with objects and coloured paper, hood, coulisse at the waist, two way zip closure and inner pressure buttons.

Final home oange cassic

Final Home long unisex coat in see-through and stiff polyester canvas, with zip for padded ‘cushions’ con zip or to be filled with objects and coloured paper, hood, coulisse at the waist, two way zip closure and inner pressure buttons.

 

 


 


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The placid summer calm of the sunny and semi-desert city alleys during August bank holidays clashes with the rapid pace of IVO MILAN shop…

Couriers, boxes delivered, boxes to be opened, pictures to be shot. The autumn/winter 2014-15 catalogue is in full preparation. Intense, exciting moments for the amazement in looking at so much waited previews.

For example, Yohji Yamamoto ravishes with surprisingly involving textile spaces, in the prints of the Japanese artist Yasuto Sasada or in the extreme volumes of his coats and overcoats.

The unisex pieces of Final Home, raincoats to be stuffed strategically with removable pads or windproof papers and newspapers. But also Vivienne Westwood, with the Gold and the Red lines, the British style deconstructed and re-invented by IVO MILAN. And the urban and vaguely grunge silhouettes of Rick Owens already live together and are making their entry in the racks together with Forme d’Expression, Zucca, Boboutic, Shu Moriyama, etc.

Day after day the online anthology for the next season becomes more complete and more articulate, during its definition we hand you some shots stolen from the backstage, a small tasting to share it with you and maybe, with the interpretation of our Alice Sofia, it will help you to forget for a second the sultry weather of these days. Enjoy it!

YOHJI YAMAMOTO x YASUTO SASADA

Y’S Yohji Yamamoto

Y’s Yohji YamamotoOyuna

Rick Owens

Boboutic Shu Moriyama

Vivienne Westwood Red LabelShu Moriyama

Vivienne Westwood Red Label


OyunaVivienne Westwood Red Label

Oyuna

 

 

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Summer time, holiday time, time for yourself. Departures time and packing time. For this new tour through our summer suggestions we took inspiration from that pre-departure trepidation, recurrent on this season, typical of those days preceding the long-awaited holiday. We imagined our clothes going on vacation, putting them into different hypothetical luggage. It doesn’t matter which will be your destination. A relaxed evening at the sunset on the seashore or a more reckless backpacking day in the mountains, a walk through the ancient splendour of a city of art or a crowded afternoon in the streets of a modern metropolis, we tried to adapt our choices to different holiday scenarios in order to make the clothes good traveling companions in every journey you will decide to embark on. As well a chance to mix up for you the items on sale, putting them under a new light and revealing the possible and various combinations. Enjoy it and above all enjoy your holidays!

Ys, Yohji, Yamamoto, Trippen, LGR, SS2014

Y’s Yohji Yamamoto calf length fitted at the waist dress in tencel jersey with “Mark Rothko” colours print, slip like shoulder straps, neck opening with net insert, central zip on the back, a small side pocket on the waist.

Yohji Yamamoto shoulder bag in smooth cow leather with wool gabardine sides, drawstring expanded, one small pocket at front and one at back, exposed zip closure, detachable buckle adjustable thin strap, cotton canvas lining, inside pocket.

Trippen simple flat sandal with one upper strap across the feet and a narrow one at the ankle with velcro fastening.

LGR woman’s sun-glasses with shaded grey photochromatic lenses; frame in flexible acetate by Mazzucchelli and lenses by Barberini.

Vivienne, Westwood, Trippen, Scha, SS 2014

Vivienne Westwood Gold Label dress/skirt in viscose with a big orchid print on a black background, elastic at the belt, two side welt pockets, wide and straight line, wearable as a long skirt or a calf length dress.

Vivienne Westwood Gold Label short cardigan in knitted cotton and silk, boat neck, sewn as two drawn near knitted fabrics with profiles in relief, open holes on the shoulders and on the sides, a small pocket diagonally sewn on the front, small band hem, tight fit.

Trippen high clog with cowhide leather bands and wood sole.covered with non-slip rubber, leather band with velcro closure, heel height 7,5 cm.

Blue Yesey hat, 100% straw.

Zucca, Cauliflower, Issey Miyake, Yesey, Rosa Mosa, SS 2014

Cauliflower Issey Miyake creased t-shirt in polyester jersey, wide round neck, short sleeves.

Zucca wide and long cardigan with cotton Norwegian jacquard, three quarter sleeve, V neck, sewn beads with Aztecan pattern on the shoulders, two side small pockets at the hem.

Zucca straight fit trousers in washed cotton poplin., two diagonal pockets on the front and a small pocket with button on the back, stitching in the inner thigh with a “jodhpurs” effect, sewn turn-up at the hem, belt loops.

Rosa Mosa cotton canvas pois print and leather sneakers with rubber sole.

Yesey hat, 100% paper.

Comme des garcons, Yohji Yamamoto, Forme D'Expression, Scha, Tracey Neuls, SS 2014

Comme des Garçons ”sculpture” shirt with overlapping shapes in popeline cotton, medium length, short sleeves with geometric design, wide crew-neck.

Forme d’Expression curve shaped skinny pants in black washed wool serge, leg with front curve cut, concealed button fastening, sides slit pocket, centre leg cut and welt pockets at rear, slightly shorter and pointed hem at the back.

Yohji Yamamoto doctor style tote in black garment texture soft leather, hinged top, double handles, can be wear on shoulder, cotton canvas lining, , one zipped, one cell phone holder and one slit inside pockets.

Tracey Neuls stringless shoes in soft cowhide leather, mocassin like upper with small holes on the tongue and with inner elastic band, leather sole.

Scha limited edition hat in vintage quality, very fine weave sisal double layers, soft and ultralight, small brim, pliable wire in the edge.

Oyuna, Bouboutic, Issey Miyake, Trippen, SS 2014

Boboutic wide t-shirt in stockinette stitch makò cotton and silk, falling raw cut short sleeves, wide and reinforced crew-neck, sewn with slight horizontal difference in colour from one shoulder to the other along the back, hem band, shorter at the front.

Oyuna sahrouel knitted jersey/crêpe de Chine cotton trousers, side small pocket on the hip, asymmetric line, elastic at the waist, wearable also as a below the knee skirt lifting up the bottom.

PLEATS PLEASE Issey Miyake half moon bag in slanting polyester pleating and leather trimmings, an inside small pocket with zip, inside lined with nylon, zip closure, strengthened bottom on the sides, removable handles with hook, cross body, shoulder or hand bag.

Trippen flip-flop sandal with classic “Trippen” wide sole and metallic cowhide leather bands outlining a open V on the instep, band with Velcro fastening around the ankle, rubber arch support.

 


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The dresses of Comme des Garçons are asymmetric, essential, pure expression of a deconstructionism deeply rooted in the brand identity. In these dresses it is possible to perceive a sort of charm for the incomplete, the unfinished hems, the raw cuts, as Rei Kawakubo asserts, brand founder and designer, are a way to project the dress onto the future, to leave open the chance that something else could be generated.

Comme des Garçons, SS2014, TopComme des Garçons, SS2014, TopComme des Garçons, SS 2014, Jacket

This self-taught well-read designer challenges herself collection after collection to create something new, radical, absolutely fresh. In this way her “fashion” becomes a tool for the mind liberation, an unceasing questioning and pushing behind the faint boundary between art and fashion, an incessant game of tensions and research, of vibrations, references and provocations.

Comme des Garçons, SS2014, ShowroomComme des Garçons, SS 2014, Cage DressComme des Garçons, SS2014, Shoe CoversComme des Garçons, SS 2014, Shoes

For the Spring-Summer 2014 Rei Kawakubo declares that the only way to make something different is to start with the intention to not design clothes. Actually on the catwalk moving sculptures, that not even meet anymore the logics of functionality, wearability and aesthetic harmony, succeed one another. The black colour leit-motif interrupted by shocking pink splashes, together with the brief musical themes, creates an uninterrupted tension bringing the spectator to ask himself: -what she could do more than this?-.

Comme des Garçons, SS 2014, DressComme des Garçons, SS 2014, JacketComme des Garçons, SS 2014, Dress

As a dodecaphonic musical language or a jazz piece with a sonority unpleasant at the first listening, these shapes are an invitation to the silence, an invitation to go past the well-known in order to open the mind and the spirit to new horizons and new perspectives. In other word, to grow up.

Comme des Garçons, SS2014, DressComme des Garçons, SS2014, DressComme des Garçons, SS 2014, Dress

Discover the Spring/Summer 2014 collection on IVO MILAN!

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