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— Ivo Milan – Radical Fashion Blog

Paper Issey Miyake

An easy cardigan?…Paper and acrylic barré knitted!

For some reason whenever we go into a store, or even more so, whenever we happen across an online clothes catalog, our approach tends to be very superficial.

Our attention is caught by a certain color tone, a type of fabric, or by some particular detail that fascinates us more than another. Hardly ever do we go beyond this first impression and really explore what we see hanging on the rack or what lies behind the preview icon.

Yet, there are spaces, both real and virtual, where clothes are not so easily dismissed with a fleeting glance but require more careful consideration. Such as this unbelievably vast selection of garments, whose ingenious design, rare materials and unexpected colors, deserve a lot of attention.

Simply slowing down and observing more closely allows us to see the complexity and beauty that is all too easily overlooked by a casual glance.



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The minimalist design of the exclusively hand-made line of hats made for the German brand SCHA, belies the expert craftsmanship of the Polish designer Ewa Kulasek. Having studied painting and sculpture at the School of Fine Arts in Düsseldorf, the artist continues to explore the figurative arts from her studio in Cologne, choosing the aerial form of head covering as the form for her sculptural skills.

Within just a few short years, Europe’s most important exhibition centers have conferred indisputable artistic value to her works, establishing her as an internationally renowned milliner.

Despite the ephemeral nature of the accessory, to Ewa Kulasek the hat should emanate from the thoughts and respect the identity and character of the wearer, and this can only happen by giving it poetic dignity that takes away the depersonalizing contingency of seasonal trends.

Following a complex and personal synthesis of extremely uniform cultural references, with SCHA the designer draws upon a systematic removal of decorative and geometric elements, modeling pieces away from the rigorously formal, rounded style, increasingly to the circular shape of the head. This is functional not only because it adapts to different clothing styles, but also because of the many different possibilities of expression offered by each article.

Fibers and quality fabrics in natural colors, interweave with extremely simple forms, which are nevertheless capable of generating undefined associations, and references distant in both time and space. Hat-sculptures: objects to be worn with a casual cheekiness or to contemplate their timeless beauty.

Come and see Scha’s newest collection at IVO MILAN!

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Completed studies in architecture, specialising in gemmology. Training that ranges from the macro to the micro, within which Simona Tagliaferri developed her passion for accessories, and more generally for the structures in materials. An experience that has involved collaborating with leading international brands, and resulted in the pieces carrying her name being exhibited in various contemporary art galleries, including the prestigious MoMa Gallery in New York. An imperceptible signature, the S and the T are placed directly in focus on the material of her creations, magnificent handbags and some spectacular capes designed using the same decorative principles as the accessories.

Her vast experience in the design of leather and metal makes it possible for Simona Tagliaferri to achieve an original fusion between the two materials, creating the Anima range of medium and large-sized bags and weatherproof shoulder bags that have a waxed and wrinkled effect, and defy a rigid shape.

A project that revolves around the simple premise that a bag, in its everyday context as a reference item of life, which is increasingly conducted outside the home, must respond to needs that are firstly practical: lightness, spaciousness and resistance. Pockets and zips are easily accessed and each compartment is very spacious.

There is special attention to the product’s aesthetics based on the idea that this represents a piece of baggage that will be carried around the entire day, and which should be able to fit one’s entire world; the product is metropolitan and essential, expressed in neutral shades, from pitch black to pale grey, thanks to the leather that has been treated using ecological and anti-allergic methods, and then combined with linen and metal.

A bag that one could become attached to, and which easily integrates and corresponds with clothing that has strong artistic, experimental and cosmopolitan tendencies.

Come and see Simona Tagliaferri’s newest collection at IVO MILAN

And  you can view  the Simona Tagliaferri presentation

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Contrary to what you could think on reading the name, Peter Non is an all Italian product with head office just below the splendid Dolomites. Peter comes from the Greek term “petros”, rock, and indicates the solidity and robustness of fully handmade footwear. The negation “non” stresses the idea behind it, something really important for the project’s young designers, that of a “non” shoe.

This principle, a paradox for something that is, in fact, worn, wants to stress comfort instead of function, the naturalness and spontaneity each model is worn with. An example dear to the company is that wearability can be compared to the same primary instinct with which you start walking with your right or your left foot.

The cork and rubber sole, the same as the famous German Birkenstock, is designed to be a natural support and accompany foot movement. This way it guarantees such well-acknowledged anatomic properties that they become an absolute must in the conversations of whoever suffers, or has suffered, with foot problems.

Along with its craftsmanship and fundamental anatomic characteristics, Peter Non concentrates on the design of uppers, the exclusive choice of natural, ecologic materials, and on unequalled quality. Rope, straw, raffia and leather woven into very detailed textures, evocative of precious fabrics like broderie anglaise and the historical Vanoni embroidery, but also geography and landscapes. Summer collection models are named for places inspiring them: Almeria, Granada, Santa Fe. The warm, arid colours of those areas around the Cabo de Gata desert and the typical decorations of Arab Andalusian forts translated onto this collection’s uppers.

In their rich design, Peter Non moccasins and sabots are just ideal for both more sober clothes and to contain the daily rhythms of more complex clothing styles.

 


 

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If you have not already planned one, here’s an excellent reason to arrange a trip to the Ville Lumiére in the next six months. Today they are inaugurating the reopening of the Musée Galliera inside Les Docks, on the Quai d’Austerlitz, the new warehouses along the Seine used as Cité de La Mode et du Design.

For the occasion, the Museum’s artistic director, Olivier Baillard, fascinated by the show “White Drama” by Rei Kawakubo – Comme des Garçons, presented during the Paris spring-summer 2012 collection fashion week last October, has decided to host the great Japanese designer’s entire collection.

From today, 13 April, till 7 October 2012, visitors can admire the structure, designed by Kawakubo himself, containing all this season’s items. We must add that the choice to exhibit such recent material is an absolute world first, as they have only ever held retrospective exhibitions.

As Baillard himself says, about his choice and Kawakubo’s work:

This fashion show is a tour de force as an immaterial dimension exudes from these fashion architectures and hits the spiritual transporting you into the unclassifiable universe of Rei Kawakubo [...]

This collection is a poetical manifesto going beyond fashion. It is the museum’s role to offer a freeze-frame, slow down time and the tyranny of immediacy. While giving everyone the chance to discover the entire show, it allows us to show people that fashion demands a lot of work, method and requirements, not just time”.

A must opportunity to discover the artistic validity of Rei Kawakubo, recognised as one of the most important, radical creators of modern fashion.

For more about the White Drama collection, please go to the following link

http://radicalfashion.ivomilan.it/it/various/comme-des-garcons-spring-summer-2012/

Practical information

Les Dock – Cité de la Mode et du Design:

34 qui d’Austerlitz

75013 Paris

Tel.: 01 76 77 25 30

Open Tuesday to Sunday from 10am to 6pm except public holidays

Entrance ticket:

Full price: € 6

Reduced price: € 4,5

Youth price (14-26): € 3

Free for under 14s

Access:

Metro: Gare d’Austerlitz, Quai de la Gare, Gare de Lyon

Bus: 24, 57, 61, 63, 89, 91

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