www.ivomilan.it

   IVO MILAN – Radical Fashion Blog

1 3 2 5, Issey, Miyake, SS16

Top 132 5. Issey Miyake spring/summer 2016.

Despite the slow, endless moving forward of the winter, in the shop the season sales introduce and overlap the joyful arrival of the next Spring/Summer. An impressive Trippen delivery makes us guess the incoming chromatic presences and, for the first time in Europe, the 132 5. Issey Miyake origami lines, anticipates the most clever developments of the extraordinary Japanese Maison!

Trippen, Shoes, SS16

Trippen, Shoes, SS16

Trippen shoes spring/summer 2016 lined up ready to be photigraphed.

1 3 2 5, Issey, Miyake, SS16

1 3 2 5, Issey, Miyake, SS16

1 3 2 5, Issey, Miyake, SS16

1 3 2 5, Issey, Miyake, SS16

1 3 2 5, Issey, Miyake, SS16

Top 132 5. Issey Miyake spring/summer 2016.

1 One-dimensional

3 Three-dimensional

2 Shape

5 Body

But also Daniela Gregis, Comme des Garçons, Junya Watanabe are waiting for their turn of being shot and added to our online catalogue…

Junya, Watanabe, SS16

Junya, Watanabe, SS16

Junya Watanabe spring/summer 2016

Daniela, Gregis, Packaging, SS16

Daniela, Gregis, Packaging, SS16The well-curated Daniela Gregis packaging.

Daniela, Gregis, Vichy, Bag, SS16

Hand-woven Daniela Gregis bag in wicker and vichy spring/summer 2016.

Comme, des, Garcons, Daniela, Gregis, Junya, Watanabe, Issey, Miyake, SS16

Comme, des, Garcons, Daniela, Gregis, Junya, Watanabe, Issey, Miyake, SS16

Comme, des, Garcons, Daniela, Gregis, Junya, Watanabe, SS16

The first arrivals of Comme des Garçons, Daniela Gregis, Junya Watanabe and 1 3 2 5.Issey Miyake waiting to be photographed  for our online catalogue.

And after these fleeting, as confused, new arrivals previews, the rigid temperatures allow us to still dwell upon the many winter possibilities… Outfits provided by the knowledge of months of experimentations, revelations and fittings with the shop customers. Often unique pieces, of impossible to find design, being timeless they are combinable with garments from the past winters, a strategic and gratifying finishing to our refined wardrobes.

Vivienne, Westwood, Anglomania, Red, Label, outfit, AW15, Sale

Vivienne, Westwood, Anglomania, Red, Label, outfit, AW15, Sale

Vivienne Westwood Red Label long and heavy sweater in malfilè wool, cotton, polyamide and acrylic with big contrasting triangles, wide crew-neck.

Vivienne Westwood Anglomania short pants-style miniskirt in polyester and elastane canvas with  a worn-out velvet effect printing, inner buttons closure, outer buttons diagonal closure, 2 side pockets, central back slit.

Vivienne Westwood Anglomania viscose and spandex leggings with Union Jack printing.

Vivienne Westwood Mantero big scarf in acrylic and wool big thread loom weft with squares pattern, fringes along the edges, l 200 cm x h 55 cm.

Trippen ankle boot in soft suede cowhide leather slightly creased on the instep, side zip closure, new ‘spot’ sole with two rubber blocks and non-slip base made on iron stamp.

Y's, Yohji, Yamamoto, Outfit, AW15, Sale

Y’s Yohji Yamamoto wide coat in loom worked wollen multicolour cloth, single-breasted, half-closed crew-neck, frayed edges, two diagonal vertical pockets, press buttons closure.

Y’s Yohji Yamamoto long, wide and asymmetric sweater in knitted wool with a light bouclé effect, turtle-neck with V opening on the front, horizontal ribbing on the breast and on the shoulder, diagonal point at the bottom, side stitching, one side slit, asymmetric line.

Y's, Yohji, Yamamoto, Outfit, AW15, Sale

Y’s Yohji Yamamoto spencer jacket in wool gabardine with cuff and hem bands, single-breasted with lapels, two vertical welt pockets.

Y’s Yohji Yamamoto wide, large and asymmetric divided skirt in light pale multicolour wool canvas, with brace, one vertical welt pockets, zip and drawstring side closure.

Yohji Yamamoto wide stole in knitted wool and nylon worked with stitched ribbed fringes, fringes at the far ends, l 216 cm x h 70 cm.

Trippen ankle-boot in cowhide leather with new ‘spot’ sole with two rubber blocks and non-slipper base made on iron stamps, vertical elastic bands from the sole to the ankle.

Yohji-Yamamoto-Outfit-AW15-Sale

Yohji-Yamamoto-Outfit-AW15-Sale

Yohji Yamamoto short cardigan in light knitted wool, polyamide and viscose with abstract-geometrical texture, zip closure, drop-shaped neck, wider on the side, hem band, wide kimono sleeve.

Yohji Yamamoto short jersey and gabardine wool dress, tight-fitting t-shirt bodice with wide draped fabric sewn at the neck and adjustable, long sleeve.

Yohji Yamamoto classic twill trousers printed with artist Yasuto Sasada drawings, tight at the bottom, 2 front diagonal pockets and 2 welt pockets with small button on the back, zip and button closure, belt loops and inserted strap with buckle, lined.

Trippen ankle boot in soft suede cowhide leather slightly creased on the instep, side zip closure, new ‘spot’ sole with two rubber blocks and non-slip base made on iron stamp.

Rick, Owens, Sculpture, Padded, Coat, AW15, Sale

Rick Owens sculpture padded jacket longer on the sides in polyamide with an horizontal pleating processing, geometrical stitching on the front, single-breasted with wide triangular lapels, three snaps buttons closure.

Issey Miyake wool and polyurethane crêpe stretch trousers with contrasting colour belt, two diagonal pockets, two welt pockets on the back, diagonal panel stitched on the front, two buttons and zip side closure, soft line.

Trippen ankle-boot in washed and treated cowhide leather with three blocks heel, side zip closure, wide sole, instep upper part higher on the back.

Junya, Watanabe, Knitwear, AW15, Sale

Junya Watanabe mohair sweater with ribbed pyramid origami in wool and polyester along the sleeves and the shoulders, crew-neck, band on the cuffs, neck and at the bottom.

Junya Watanabe knee-length wide full skirt with rounded large pleats in wool flannel, side closure with zip and hook.

Issey, Miyake, Cortella, Shu, Moriyama, AW15, Sale

Issey, Miyake, Cortella, Shu, Moriyiama, AW15, Sale

Shu Moriyama short and wide jacket in embossed wool canvas with patterns in two different colours, crew-neck, single-breasted with press buttons.

Andrea Cortella rew-neck sweater in stitched Cashwool extra fine Merino wool with pyramid shaped points on the front, knitted band at the bottom, on the cuffs and on the neck, straight line.

Issey Miyake skirt in steam stretch pleated bicolour polyester and polyurethane with a narrow crystal effect, elastic band at the belt, wide and flared line, two welt pockets, reversible and wearable as a cape.

Classic Trippen’ ankle boot in oiled suede cowhide leather with strings and small hooks, removable cork insole, rubber sole.

Issey, Miyake, AW15, Sale

Issey Miyake pleated garments.

Junya, Watanabe, Comme, des, Garçons, AW15, Sale

Junya Watanabe and Comme des Garçons garments.

Gudrun, and, Gudrun, Knitwear, AW15, Sale

Gudrun & Gudrun knitwear.

Gudrun, and Gudrun, Yohji, Yamamoto, Vivienne, Westwood, Outfit, AW15, Sale

Gudrun, and Gudrun, Yohji, Yamamoto, Vivienne, Westwood, Outfit, AW15, Sale

Gudrun & Gudrun open jacket style cardigan in heavy knitted alpaca, dropped stitching working on the shoulder and along the sleeve.

Y’s Yohji Yamamoto long divided skirt in cotton canvas with vertical stitched pleats, 2 diagonal side welt pockets, zip and button closure.

Vivienne Westwood Mantero big scarf in acrylic and wool big thread loom weft with squares pattern, fringes along the edges, l 200 cm x h 55 cm.

Trippen ankle boot in drummed cowhide leather and traditional Japanese sole, parallel stratifications effect on the upper instep, zip closure, traditional rubber Japanese sole.

Forme, D'Expression, Boboutic, AW15, Sale

Forme D’Expression wide pea coat in damask wool cloth with checks, shawl neck, shorter on the back, points on the front, pointed bottom, closure with button on the neck or on the side.

Boboutic short sweater in knitted extra fine wool, polyamide and yak, with irregular weft thread in a different colour at the bottom and on the sleeves, crew-neck with band, band on the cuffs and at the hem, soft line.

Forme D’Expression wool jersey trousers with waistband and knee-length doubled leg, soft line, two side welt pockets and one patch pocket on the back.

Forme D’Expression high closed neck warmer in doubled knitted soft wool and cashmere in two different colours inside-outside, reversible.

Kate Sheridan rectangular backpack in waterproof British Millerain with leather adjustable shoulder straps, flap and adjustable leather ribbon closure, internal open pockets and internal zip pocket, h 43 cm x l 38 cm.

Daniela, Gregis, Outfit, AW15, Sale

Daniela Gregis egg-shaped handmade sweater in straight stitched mohair and silk, wide crew-neck, long sleeve, neck, hem and cuffs with ribbed edge.

Daniela Gregis calf-length skirt in double wool crêpe with dark ‘storm’ printing, cut out hem, waistband at the belt, curled at the waist.

Trippen ankle boot in treated and washed cowhide leather, winglet with a pleat effect on the side, turn-up at the ankle, inner zip closure, two shell rubber sole.

Reinhard, Plank, Hat, AW15

Reinhard Plank medium-brimmed bowler hat in waxed and varnished lapin felt with a ‘rock’ effect.

Photography by Sari Milan.

 






 

 




 

Read More

Issey, Miyake, Purses, FW16

Vague, already clear and precise or no ideas at all?

 

An high-tech and hyper-radiant BaoBao? An hand-knitted or printed with rollers and airbrushes cashmere? Or hard-to-find and alchemic fragrances? Or, why not, unforgettable multi-layers scarves, warm and ornamental? But also less recognizable accessories for the everyday life or on the contrary guessed marvels to be kept on our side for the best moments…

 

Essentially, even this year we are arrived on time to the period ritual question: What am I giving to…? But it could be even more immediate and self-rewarding: What I wish to gift me…?

 

Believing that, using the words of an illustrious supporter of our online experience,

 

The aesthetic is an important part of the good being, of the gestures and even of the battles…

 

we suggest you a catalogue of ideas and possibilities that, as usual, could be wrapped in the dedicated and exclusive Sari’s packaging, Heart-Box

 

Daniela, Gregis, Jacket, Coat, FW16

Daniela Gregis wide coat in smooth cotton velvet, single-breasted, shirt neck with button, cuff-lenght sleeve, two flap pockets, buttons covered with fabric closure, slits on the cuffs.

Daniela Gregis double wool crêpe jacket with dark ‘storm’ printing, flat lapels with ‘staggered puzzle’ edges, two welt pockets, trapeze line.

Issey, Miyake, Jacket, Steam, Streatch, FW16

Issey Miyake wide jacket in narrow wave steam-stretch pleated polyester with a multicolored optical effect, double-breasted with lapels, two buttons closure, ¾ flared sleeve, asymmetric hem, voluminous on the back.

Un-Namable long and asymmetric skirt in a paper effect polyester fabric, with pleats in different directions, with press buttons.

Andrea, Cortella, Knitwear, AW16

Andrea Cortella asymmetric sweater in stitched Cashwool extra fine Merino wool with rounded neck draped on the shoulder, knitted band at the bottom, on the cuffs and on the neck, straight line.

Daniela Gregis wide trousers in heavy cotton canvas, belt loops with belt, turned-up at the hem, welt pockets on the side and on the back, open flap with elastic band.

Bao, Bao, Issey, Miyake, FW16

Bao Bao Issey Miyake small shoulder bag made of polish PVC and polyurethane plates, adjustable shoulder strap, zip closure, open internal pocket, lined, h 16 cm x l 23 cm.

Bao, Bao, Issey, Miyake, FW, 2015, Tokolom

Classic Bao Bao squared shopper bag made of polish PVC and polyurethane TOKOLO plates with a Rubix cube effect on polyester net, adjustable handles, zip internal pocket, h 34 cm x l 34.

Comme, des, Garçons, Perfumes

Comme, des, Garçons, Perfumes

Comme, des, Garçons, Perfumes


Comme des Garçons perfumes.


Stephen, Jones, Perfum

WISTERIA HYSTERIA Stephen Jones – eau de toilette.

Vivienne, Westwood, Mantero, Scarves

Vivienne Westwood Mantero big scarves in acrylic and wool big thread loom weft with squares pattern, fringes along the edges, l 200 cm x h 55 cm.

Mantero, Vivienne, Westwood, Scarf

Vivienne Westwood big scarf in very light new wool and silk gauze with Union Jack printing, small fringes along the edges, l 132 cm x h 100 cm.

Cauliflower, Issey, Miyake, Scarves, FW16

Issey Miyake Cauliflower wide scarves with zig zag edges in rayon and polyester with a fustian touch, extremities in contrasting colours, l 150 cm x h 40 cm.

Gudrun, Gudrun, Wool, Scarves, AW16

Gudrun & Gudrun large scarf with long fringes in hand-knitted alpaca, multicolour from grey to white at the extremities.

Gudrun-Gudrun-Wool-Hoods-FW16

Gudrun & Gudrun heavy hand-knitted alpaca neck with hood, stitched on the neck.

Reinhard, Plank, Hats, FW16

Reinhard Plank hats.

Gudrun-Gudrun-Sweater-Trippen-Shoe-FW16

Gudrun & Gudrun wide sweater in hand-knitted virgin wool, mohair and alpaca with a patchwork of different workings and colours on the neck, slightly flared.

Trippen ankle boot in soft cowhide leather with laces and stripes on a side, classic no-slip rubber sole with rounded toe.

Pleats, Please, Issey, Miyake, Padded, Jacket, T-shirt, FW16

Pleats Please Issey Miyake hip-length down padded jacket in shiny polyester, turtle-neck, snap buttons closure, two side welt pockets.

Pleats Please Issey Miyake t-shirt in vertical pleated polyester with faded roller printing, long bat sleeve, soft turtle-neck, large along the bodice and fitted at the bottom.

Issey, Miyake, Purses, FW16

Issey Miyake small bucket bag in bicolour stiff soften and shiny polyester pleating, origami shape with three-dimensional star effect, string closure, small leather shoulder strap.

Daniela, Gregis, Pink, Red, Coat

Daniela Gregis reversible wide pea coat in mohair wool on a side and in circles quilted nylon on the other, crew-neck with half-moon back flap, small slits on the cuffs, two welt pockets with inside holes where is possible insert a belt to close the pea coat.

Daniela, Gregis, Bag, FW16

Daniela Gregis wool crochet rectangular shopper bag with silk and cotton ribbons in different colour, two short double handles, h 28 cm x l 46 cm x d 30 cm approximately.

Anrealage, Light, Collection, FW16, Jacket

Anrealage, Light, Collection, FW16, Jacket, Detail

Anrealage long jacket in black and white polyester and rayon graffito on a velvet effect base, single-breasted with lapels, button closure, two patch pockets, flounces on the sides and at the bottom, welt small breast pocket.

Anrealage, Light, Collection, FW16, Detail

Anrealage short trench in wool cloth with light circle imprinted at the centre, double-breasted with flaps and lapels emerging from the fabric, gorget patches on the shoulders, back yoke, 2 vertical welt pockets, 2 welt inner pockets.

Heart, Box, Packaging

Heart, Box, packaging

Heart, Box, Packaging

Heart, Box, Packaging

Heart, Box, Packaging

Heart, Box, Packaging

Heart, Box, Packaging

Heart, Box, Packaging

Photography by Sari Milan.

 


Read More

miyake-issey-tokyo-exhibition

Teamwork, environmental ethos, experimentation and strong pragmatism, light and joy, the guidelines of a Maison built around the enlightened principles of its founder, Issey Miyake.

Issey Miyake Autumn/Winter 2015-16: runway show finale.

Against the perishing and obsolete destiny of fashion, against the fact that clothing reduces itself to a simply instrument of status and wealth affirmation, Miyake firmly believes in the rational and spacial nature of dressing up. The dress exists in function of the physicality of whom will wear it, it’s bounded to people life and daily movement. So it must match innovation and comfort criteria, because our existences proceed into space and time.

Pleats, Please, AW 2015-16

Pictures from the Pleats Please Autumn/Winter 2015-16 catalogue.

In opposition to the ‘designer mythicization’, Miyake put together a team of experts that goes ahead and experiments through the continuous exchange of information and skills. In fact only the contamination of ideas and the flow of consciousness could generate that innovation levels already became exclusive heritage of Miyake Maison.

Machines at work in Miyake Design Studio: pictures from ‘Pleats Please Issey Miyake, published by Taschen.

The creative process starts trying to solve three fundamental problems: to minimise the industrial waste starting from just one piece of fabric; to give back the three-dimensionality of the human body through the fabric bi-dimensionality and to guarantee to the other people practicality, movement and an exclusive perception of the self. Inside this frame it has developed the engineering and textile experimentations that brought to the realization of the already very famous pleating. During four decades Miyake together with its staff tested new materials, invented formal abstractions only made possible by the infinite fabric plasticity and by the high-tech machines built up over time. With the different lines, from the one carrying his name that shows the most avant-garde and poetic experimentations of the new steam stretch pleating, to Pleats Please, to Cauliflower, developed in just one size, to the Bao Bao bags, where the triangle modular repetition is the remarkable sign of an highly futuristic project, or moreover the latest 132 5. Issey Miyake (available in our shop from next Spring/Summer), in recycled pet, pressed like origami paper, Issey Miyake and his Design Studio are ambitious guests of the most prestigious contemporary art galleries.

Issey, Miyake, AW 2015-16, Fashion Show

Issey Miyake Autumn/Winter 2015-16

Issey, Miyake, 132 5, Origami, Line

132 5. Issey Miyake

So we can’t be taken away from point out, for whom will have the chance to be in Tokyo between next March and next June, the unmissable exhibition hold at the National Art Center:

MIYAKE ISSEY EXHIBITION: The Work of Miyake Issey

One of the most complete overview of Issey Miyake work and on the solutions, always in evolution, developed by his prolific creative team. And for the very first time the complex productive processes that allow the realization of the different expression of the most famous pleating will be shown and explained.

An overview from our catalogue Autumn/Winter 2015-16:

Issey, Miyake, Coat, Bao, Bao, Bag, Aw15

Issey Miyake calf-length coat in wool and polyester squares with a ribbon effect, shirt neck, two buttons closure, two welt pockets, lined.

Bao Bao Issey Miyake big squared shopper bag made by polish PRISMA PVC triangular plates repeated trough an origami calculation on a polyester base, double adjustable handles, big inner zip pocket, l 39 cm x h 39 cm.

Y’s Yohji Yamamoto tight leg jeans trousers in creased cotton canvas, 2 welt vertical pockets, 3 patch pockets on the back with and 2 overlapped, belt loops, zip and button closure.

Vivienne Westwood Mantero big scarf in very light new wool and silk gauze with Union Jack printing, small fringes along the edges, l 132 cm x h 100 cm.

Trippen ankle boot in soft cowhide leather with laces and stripes on a side, classic no-slip rubber sole with rounded toe.

Issey, Miyake, Shawl, Unamable, Skirt, Aw15

Issey Miyake rectangular shawl in steam stretch pleated polyester and polyurethane with a kaleidoscope effect, buttons on the four points, wearable both sides and in many different ways, h 70 cm x l 130 cm.

Un-Namable long and asymmetric skirt in a paper effect polyester fabric, with pleats in different directions, with press buttons.

Trippen ankle boot in soft suede cowhide leather, with a comma elastic both sides of the ankle, with 2 shells sole.

Issey, Miyake, Skirt, AW, 2015-16

Issey Miyake skirt in stiff and narrow pleated polyester with a crystal effect, elastic band at the belt, wide and flared line, two welt pockets, wearable as a cape.

Trippen ankle boot in soft suede cowhide leather, with a comma elastic both sides of the ankle, with 2 shells sole.

Issey, Miyake, Trousers, Jacket, AW15

Issey Miyake ribbed steam stretch pleated polyester jacket, wide shawled lapels, fitted at the waist, button closure.

Issey Miyake wool and polyurethane crêpe stretch trousers with contrasting colour belt, two diagonal pockets, two welt pockets on the back, diagonal panel stitched on the front, two buttons and zip side closure, soft line.

Trippen ankle boot in soft suede cowhide leather, with a comma elastic both sides of the ankle, with 2 shells sole.

Issey, Miyake, Sweater, Trousers, AW15

Issey Miyake straight pleated top with diagonal multicolour pattern, long bat sleeve, V neck, rounded hem.

Issey Miyake wool and polyurethane crêpe stretch trousers with contrasting colour belt, two diagonal pockets, two welt pockets on the back, diagonal panel stitched on the front, two buttons and zip side closure, soft line.

Issey, Miyake, Sweater, AW15

Issey Miyake long top in  melange narrow wave pleated polyester and wool, V neck, egg line.

A punto B low crotch and low waist trousers in heavy cotton, zip and button closure, wide and moulded slightly tightening at the bottom, two vertical welt pockets.

‘Classic Trippen’ ankle boot in oiled suede cowhide leather with strings and small hooks, removable cork insole, rubber sole.

Issey, Miyake, Top , AW15

Issey Miyake top in horizontal narrow and grained bicolour pleated polyester, wide and doubled cowl neck, diagonal pleating on the breast till the sleeve.

Issey Miyake large balloon trousers in narrow wave pleated polyester, tighter at the bottom, elastic band at the belt, two side welt pockets.

Issey, Miyake, Scarf, Jacket, AW15

Issey Miyake squared shawl in stiff and narrow pleated polyester with a crystal effect, hole closure, h 80 cm x l 87 cm.

Issey Miyake hip-length jacket in stiff and narrow bicolour pleated polyester, single-breasted, lapels with detached points stitched on the neck, button closure, pointed sleeve on the cuffs, flared line.

Issey Miyake large balloon trousers in narrow wave pleated polyester, tighter at the bottom, elastic band at the belt, two side welt pockets.

Issey, Miyake, Pleated, Pea, Coat, AW 2015

Issey Miyake wide pea coat in  narrow wave pleated polyester with a multicolour optical effect, lapels, two buttons closure, ¾ flared sleeve, egg line.

Issey Miyake wool and polyurethane crêpe stretch trousers with contrasting colour belt, two diagonal pockets, two welt pockets on the back, diagonal panel stitched on the front, two buttons and zip side closure, soft line.

issey, Miyake, Jacket, Unamable, Skirt, AW15

Issey Miyake short and wide jacket in horizontal narrow and grained bicolour pleated polyester, single-breasted, shawl and doubled neck, button closure.

Un-Namable long and asymmetric skirt in a paper effect polyester fabric, with pleats in different directions, with press buttons.

Trippen ankle boot in soft suede cowhide leather, with a comma elastic both sides of the ankle, with 2 shells sole.

Issey, Miyake, Jacket, Trousers, AW15

Issey Miyake hip-length jacket in narrow wave pleated polyester with a multicolour optical effect, single-breasted with lapels, buttons closure.

Issey Miyake wool and polyurethane crêpe stretch trousers with contrasting colour belt, two diagonal pockets, two welt pockets on the back, diagonal panel stitched on the front, two buttons and zip side closure, soft line.

Trippen ankle boot in soft suede cowhide leather, with a comma elastic both sides of the ankle, with 2 shells sole.

Issey, Miyake, Jacket, Trousers, AW15

Issey Miyake bolero jacket in tridimensional pleated polyester, shawl neck with semi-circular edges pleating on the inside, button closure, ¾ flared sleeve.

Issey Miyake wool and polyurethane crêpe stretch trousers with contrasting colour belt, two diagonal pockets, two welt pockets on the back, diagonal panel stitched on the front, two buttons and zip side closure, soft line.

Issey, Miyake, Dress, AW15

Issey Miyake calf-length asymmetric dress in horizontal narrow and grained bicolour pleated polyester, wide and doubled cowl neck, diagonal pleating on the breast till the sleeve.

Trippen ankle boot in soft suede cowhide leather, with a comma elastic both sides of the ankle, with 2 shells sole.

Issey, Miyake, A-Poc, Top, Trousers, AW15

Issey Miyake top in nylon and cotton A-poc bicolour fabric, asymmetric line, boat neck, flared sleeve, soften colours, frayed hem.

Issey Miyake stretch polyester and wool jeans-like trousers with small checks texture, two darts on the front, two side welt pockets, zip and button closure.

Trippen ankle boot in soft suede cowhide leather, with a comma elastic both sides of the ankle, with 2 shells sole.

Issey, Miyake, Bag, Tunic, AW15

Issey Miyake calf-length nylon and cotton A-poc bicolour tunic dress, ¾ sleeve, amphora line, boat neck.

Issey Miyake small bucket bag in bicolour stiff soften and shiny polyester pleating, origami shape with three-dimensional star effect, string closure, small leather shoulder strap.

Trippen ankle boot in soft suede cowhide leather, with a comma elastic both sides of the ankle, with 2 shells sole.



 

Read More

Comme des Garçons, Aw 2015-16, Paolo Roversi

Comme des Garçons by Paolo Roversi for Vogue Paris, October 2015

We would like to point out an interesting interview to Rei Kawakubo, Comme des Graçons designer and founder of the Maison that, besides the lines carrying the name (Comme des Garçons, Comme des Garçons-Comme des Garçons) produces Junya Watanabe, Noir-Kei Ninomiya and in the past Tao Kurihara. A not pretty commercial experience, but rather made of creativity and experimental research around clothing.

Not only some indications about the inspiring theme of the Autumn/Winter 2015-16 collection, ‘Ceremony of Separation’, but most of all a precious point of view on the meaning that an high creativity valence dress could embody and on the creativity process which supports it. A synthetic analysis on the possible physiological aspects turned up by wearing clothes that launch continuous challenge to our minds and on the hard exercise of constantly inventing ever seen works…

 

From the very creation of her line Comme des Garçons in 1969, the Japanese designer Rei Kawakubo has upended, reimagined, and revolutionized the codes and concepts of what fashion is and what it can be. Now 73, Kawakubo is no less visionary, still “drowning in the dark,” as she describes it, in search of something new.

 

TELL US ABOUT THE THEME OF THE FALL COLLECTION: I called it the Ceremony of Separation. It’s about how the beauty and power of ceremony can alleviate the pain of separating, for the one departing as well as for the one saying goodbye.

 

HOW DO YOU WANT PEOPLE TO FEEL WHEN THEY WEAR COMME DES GARCONS? What someone wears is an expression of oneself. When you’re just comfortable with what you’re wearing, you don’t have new thoughts. I want people to feel something and think about who they are. You can’t become truly free if you no longer think about clothes. You need to occasionally wear something strong, and that can feel strange. It makes you aware of your existence and can reaffirm your relationship with society. I think people feel a minute current running through them as they come into contact with something made by someone exploring the limits. When you put on clothes that are fighting against something, you can feel your courage grow. Clothing can set you free.

 

WHAT IS YOUR CREATIVE PROCESS I’m always looking to make something that didn’t exist before, fumbling about in the dark, not just while making a collection. The search for something new is a constant in my everyday life. But constantly searching for something new is like looking for a well in a desert. It is like drowning in the dark, but creation is what I built Comme des Garçons on. For a collection, I need to push myself into a corner and find a way to get over the walls. The ideas are born disconnectedly, incoherently, and slowly, slowly, a final image emerges.

Rei, Kawakubo, Interview, Magazine

IS FASHION AN ART FORM? When fashion is driven by creation, I suppose it can be called an art form. But I have no concept of art in my work. Clothes are only completed when somebody actually wears them. If they were art, they could be more abstract. As long as something is new and has never been seen before, I don’t mind if people call it art. Wear them if you dare.

 

HOW DO YOU BALANCE ART AND COMMERCE? Comme des Garçons is a company founded on creation, but the link to business cannot be ignored. As the designer who is also head of the company, I have been able to “design” the company based on these same values. I want to take ultimate responsibility for the things I make and follow through everything right up to the end. What emerged, therefore, was a single decisive and coherent idea. Creation is our business.

 

DO YOU HAVE AN ULTIMATE GOAL? There is no end and no goal. As long as I’m attempting to make something that never existed before, an end is out of the question.

 

HOW IMPORTANT IS VISUAL COMMUNICATION? Extremely. I don’t trust words.

 

WHAT IS BEAUTY? Beauty should bring excitement.

Rei Kawakubo for Interview Magazine, October 2015 http://www.interviewmagazine.com/fashion/rei-kawakubo-1#_


Our selection for Autumn/Winter 2015-16 collection:

 

Comme des Garçons, Dress, Junya Watanabe, Cape, AW 2015-16

Comme des Garçons calf-length dress in rayon velvet hand-cut lace with embroidered flowers, crew-neck, sleeveless, zip and hook back closure, slim fit cut at the waist.

Junya Watanabe wide corolla cape in wool jersey floral origami, zip closure.

Comme des garçons, Lace Jacket, aw 2015-16

Comme des Garçons man jacket in embroidered lace of washed cotton and polyester, single-breasted with lapels, joined at the bottom with an overlapping flap, one small button on the neck, two patch pockets, small back slit.

Comme des Garçons man trousers with darts in creased high-tech polyester fabric, very wide leg with turn-up at the hem, zip and two buttons closure, two side welt pockets, two back welt pockets, one with button, belt loops.

Comme des Garçons, Dress, AW 2015-16

Comme des Garçons calf-length dress in treated high-tech polyester fabric, wide line cut at the belt with back pleating, jacket with lapels bodice and joined flap, two horizontal welt pockets.

Trippen low-cut shoe in soft cowhide leather with overlapping diagonal crossed flap on the instep, new ‘spot’ sole with two rubber blocks and non-slipper base made on iron stamps.

Comme des Garçons, Ribbon Jacket, AW 2015-16

Comme des Garçons wool jacket larger at the bottom, single-breasted, central buttons, shirt rounded neck, raglan shoulder, squared raw cut holes with polyurethane ribbons in contrasting colour.

Comme des Garçons divided skirt in glossy silk and wool gabardine, balloon style, 2 side welt pockets, drawstring and elastic band at the belt, arch-shaped stitchings conferring wideness.

Comme des Garçons, AW 2015-16, Jacket

Comme des Garçons man jacket in treated high-tech polyester fabric, single-breasted with lapels, joined at the bottom with an overlapping flap, one small button on the neck, two patch pockets, small back slit.

Comme des Garçons Comme des Garçons wide divided skirt in treated high-tech polyester fabric with vertical stripes weft, waistband and elastic band at the belt, side vertical pockets, flared on the sides.

Comme des Garçons, Dress, AW 2015-16

Comme des Garçons calf-length dress in stiff wool and silk satin with see-through cloud lace inserts in jacquard cotton lace, crew-neck, sleeveless, wide egg line, side welt pockets, side zip closure.

Comme des Garçons, Sweater, Skirt, AW 2015-16

Comme des Garçons doubled sweater in nylon tulle on the inside coming out at the bottom and from the cuffs, and on the outside in three-dimensional knitted alpaca and wool with inside/outside cones, rounded neck, slim fit.

Comme des Garçons divided skirt in glossy silk and wool gabardine, balloon style, 2 side welt pockets, drawstring and elastic band at the belt, arch-shaped stitchings conferring wideness.

Trippen shoe in soft cowhide leather, slightly overlapped and asymmetric closure with laces, classic sole in non-slip rubber with rounded toe.

Comme des Garçons, Shirt, Skirt, AW 2015-16

Comme des Garçons short shirt in treated polyester poplin, crew-neck, with horizontal stitching at the bottom, slim fit, long sleeve, central and side zip, darts on the front, on the back and at the breast.

Comme des Garçons divided skirt in glossy silk and wool gabardine, balloon style, 2 side welt pockets, drawstring and elastic band at the belt, arch-shaped stitchings conferring wideness.

Comme des Garçons, Divided Skirt, AW 2015-16

Comme des Garçons calf-length divided skirt in embroidered lace of washed cotton and polyester, wide fit, a leg shorter than the other, drawstring and elastic band at the belt, 2 side welt pockets, could be wear entering just one leg.

 

 

Read More

Anrealage, Fashion, Show, AW, 2015-16

http://www.thenewblack.com/portraits/anrealage-fw-15-pfw/

The name Kunihiko Morinaga, 1980 class, hides itself behind a brand, Anrealage, that with that privative suffix at the beginning, an, denies two different meanings: reality and time. An important hint, that helps to understand the experimental will of the very young designer:

 

  • nothing is what appears
  • every seasonal tendency doesn’t fall within the primal interests of the collection proposed.

 

In fact we are inside the Japanese school, where the wish to affect and to stand out from a conceptual point of view prevails on the more simply broad consensus marketing phenomenons.

With Light collection Morinaga makes his debut in Paris with a strong experimental collection, put together around the engineering exercise of the photo-sensibility. Every garment translates a possible light manifestation. Actually photo-sensible outfits come out on the runway that, on the base of the solicitation they were subjected, modify their chromatic aspect and all the collection conducts the radiant light theme. The formal circles on the pea coats and on the coats emphasize the idea of the spot light. A luminous circle testifies extremely sophisticated treatments in the colour distribution, an absorption of the light tones more complex to tell than any print realized until now.

 

Anrealage, AW 2015-16, Trench

Anrealage short trench in wool cloth with light circle imprinted at the centre, double-breasted with flaps and lapels emerging from the fabric, gorget patches on the shoulders, back yoke, two vertical welt pockets, two welt inner pockets.

Milano Parigi man trousers in wool flannel,darts on the front, belt loops, welt vertical pockets, zip and button closure, elastic band at the beck of the belt, soft line tighter at the calf.

Classic Trippen’ ankle boot in oiled suede cowhide leather with strings and small hooks, removable cork insole, rubber sole.

Anrealage, AW 2015-16, Trench

Anrealage short trench in wool cloth with light circle imprinted at the centre, double-breasted with flaps and lapels emerging from the fabric, gorget patches on the shoulders, back yoke, two vertical welt pockets, two welt inner pockets.

Milano Parigi man trousers in wool flannel,darts on the front, belt loops, welt vertical pockets, zip and button closure, elastic band at the beck of the belt, soft line tighter at the calf.

Anrealage, AW 2015-16, Pea Coat

Anrealage wool cloth knee-length pea coat with central chevron imprinted light circle, single-breasted, flaps and lapels emerging from the fabric, shoulder patches, three buttons, two welt pockets, two inner pockets.

Milano Parigi man trousers in wool flannel,darts on the front, belt loops, welt vertical pockets, zip and button closure, elastic band at the beck of the belt, soft line tighter at the calf.

Classic Trippen’ ankle boot in oiled suede cowhide leather with strings and small hooks, removable cork insole, rubber sole.

Anrealage, AW 2015-16, Pea Coat, Skirt

Anrealage wool cloth knee-length pea coat with central chevron imprinted light circle, single-breasted, flaps and lapels emerging from the fabric, shoulder patches, three buttons, two welt pockets, two inner pockets.

Anrealage calf-length skirt in black and white polyester and rayon graffito on a velvet effect base, side and bottom flounces, zip and hook side closure.

The radiant light theme is also on the knitwear, developed around a single fabric thread that, in the weft, alternates the with the shade represented by the black colour.

Anrealage, AW, 2015-16, knitwear

Anrealage circular cape in heavy knitted wool, aplaca and acrylic with a central light circle made by a single fabric thread, turtle-neck.

Y’s Yohji Yamamoto tight leg jeans trousers in creased cotton canvas, two welt vertical pockets, three patch pockets on the back with and two overlapped, belt loops, zip and button closure.

Anrealage, Aw 2015-16, Knitwear

Anrealage long circular cardigan in bouclé knitted wool, alpaca and acrylic with a light circle in weft, automatic buttons closure, two welt pockets, large ribbed bands on the cuffs.

Y’s Yohji Yamamoto tight leg jeans trousers in creased cotton canvas, two welt vertical pockets, three patch pockets on the back with and two overlapped, belt loops, zip and button closure.

Or moreover, what could appear at first glance an elementary printed velvet, reveals with the movement its textile three-dimensionality: fibre, weft graphite traces on the contrasting colour, compressed in realizing a familiar textile evocation made by lights and shades never seen before, something that has absolutely to be observed live because there is no description able to give back effectively the final result.

Anrealage, AW 2015-16, Jacket

Anrealage long jacket in black and white polyester and rayon graffito on a velvet effect base, single-breasted with lapels, button closure, two patch pockets, flounces on the sides and at the bottom, welt small breast pocket.

Milano Parigi man trousers in wool flannel,darts on the front, belt loops, welt vertical pockets, zip and button closure, elastic band at the beck of the belt, soft line tighter at the calf.

Classic Trippen’ ankle boot in oiled suede cowhide leather with strings and small hooks, removable cork insole, rubber sole.

Also in the garments with an aspect less bold and experimental, in reality thermic properties or decorative elements are very well hidden and they allow not only to enjoy the light portability of coats and pea coats, but also to modify their aspects, especially the length, at your own convenience.

Anrealage, AW 2015-16, Blouson

Anrealage short blouson in mosaic patchwork of knitted cotton with different black and grey shades, iron wire core on the edges, zip closure, hood, two flap and button vertical pockets, buttons on the cuffs, vertical welt inner pocket.

Y’s Yohji Yamamoto tight leg jeans trousers in creased cotton canvas, two welt vertical pockets, three patch pockets on the back with and two overlapped, belt loops, zip and button closure.

Anrealage, AW 2015-16, Coat

Anrealage coat with hood in tone on tone cotton and rayon, zip and frogs closure, iron wire core along the edges, two patch pockets, draping, cuffs with buttons, inner vertical welt pocket.

Milano Parigi man trousers in wool flannel,darts on the front, belt loops, welt vertical pockets, zip and button closure, elastic band at the beck of the belt, soft line tighter at the calf.

Classic Trippen’ ankle boot in oiled suede cowhide leather with strings and small hooks, removable cork insole, rubber sole.

A great respect new entry, Anrealage has to be observed and waited with the enthusiasm of the most curious youth towards every possible, revolutionary formal and textile manipulation.

 

Read More