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   IVO MILAN – Radical Fashion Blog

Summer time, holiday time, time for yourself. Departures time and packing time. For this new tour through our summer suggestions we took inspiration from that pre-departure trepidation, recurrent on this season, typical of those days preceding the long-awaited holiday. We imagined our clothes going on vacation, putting them into different hypothetical luggage. It doesn’t matter which will be your destination. A relaxed evening at the sunset on the seashore or a more reckless backpacking day in the mountains, a walk through the ancient splendour of a city of art or a crowded afternoon in the streets of a modern metropolis, we tried to adapt our choices to different holiday scenarios in order to make the clothes good traveling companions in every journey you will decide to embark on. As well a chance to mix up for you the items on sale, putting them under a new light and revealing the possible and various combinations. Enjoy it and above all enjoy your holidays!

Ys, Yohji, Yamamoto, Trippen, LGR, SS2014

Y’s Yohji Yamamoto calf length fitted at the waist dress in tencel jersey with “Mark Rothko” colours print, slip like shoulder straps, neck opening with net insert, central zip on the back, a small side pocket on the waist.

Yohji Yamamoto shoulder bag in smooth cow leather with wool gabardine sides, drawstring expanded, one small pocket at front and one at back, exposed zip closure, detachable buckle adjustable thin strap, cotton canvas lining, inside pocket.

Trippen simple flat sandal with one upper strap across the feet and a narrow one at the ankle with velcro fastening.

LGR woman’s sun-glasses with shaded grey photochromatic lenses; frame in flexible acetate by Mazzucchelli and lenses by Barberini.

Vivienne, Westwood, Trippen, Scha, SS 2014

Vivienne Westwood Gold Label dress/skirt in viscose with a big orchid print on a black background, elastic at the belt, two side welt pockets, wide and straight line, wearable as a long skirt or a calf length dress.

Vivienne Westwood Gold Label short cardigan in knitted cotton and silk, boat neck, sewn as two drawn near knitted fabrics with profiles in relief, open holes on the shoulders and on the sides, a small pocket diagonally sewn on the front, small band hem, tight fit.

Trippen high clog with cowhide leather bands and wood sole.covered with non-slip rubber, leather band with velcro closure, heel height 7,5 cm.

Blue Yesey hat, 100% straw.

Zucca, Cauliflower, Issey Miyake, Yesey, Rosa Mosa, SS 2014

Cauliflower Issey Miyake creased t-shirt in polyester jersey, wide round neck, short sleeves.

Zucca wide and long cardigan with cotton Norwegian jacquard, three quarter sleeve, V neck, sewn beads with Aztecan pattern on the shoulders, two side small pockets at the hem.

Zucca straight fit trousers in washed cotton poplin., two diagonal pockets on the front and a small pocket with button on the back, stitching in the inner thigh with a “jodhpurs” effect, sewn turn-up at the hem, belt loops.

Rosa Mosa cotton canvas pois print and leather sneakers with rubber sole.

Yesey hat, 100% paper.

Comme des garcons, Yohji Yamamoto, Forme D'Expression, Scha, Tracey Neuls, SS 2014

Comme des Garçons ”sculpture” shirt with overlapping shapes in popeline cotton, medium length, short sleeves with geometric design, wide crew-neck.

Forme d’Expression curve shaped skinny pants in black washed wool serge, leg with front curve cut, concealed button fastening, sides slit pocket, centre leg cut and welt pockets at rear, slightly shorter and pointed hem at the back.

Yohji Yamamoto doctor style tote in black garment texture soft leather, hinged top, double handles, can be wear on shoulder, cotton canvas lining, , one zipped, one cell phone holder and one slit inside pockets.

Tracey Neuls stringless shoes in soft cowhide leather, mocassin like upper with small holes on the tongue and with inner elastic band, leather sole.

Scha limited edition hat in vintage quality, very fine weave sisal double layers, soft and ultralight, small brim, pliable wire in the edge.

Oyuna, Bouboutic, Issey Miyake, Trippen, SS 2014

Boboutic wide t-shirt in stockinette stitch makò cotton and silk, falling raw cut short sleeves, wide and reinforced crew-neck, sewn with slight horizontal difference in colour from one shoulder to the other along the back, hem band, shorter at the front.

Oyuna sahrouel knitted jersey/crêpe de Chine cotton trousers, side small pocket on the hip, asymmetric line, elastic at the waist, wearable also as a below the knee skirt lifting up the bottom.

PLEATS PLEASE Issey Miyake half moon bag in slanting polyester pleating and leather trimmings, an inside small pocket with zip, inside lined with nylon, zip closure, strengthened bottom on the sides, removable handles with hook, cross body, shoulder or hand bag.

Trippen flip-flop sandal with classic “Trippen” wide sole and metallic cowhide leather bands outlining a open V on the instep, band with Velcro fastening around the ankle, rubber arch support.

 


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The dresses of Comme des Garçons are asymmetric, essential, pure expression of a deconstructionism deeply rooted in the brand identity. In these dresses it is possible to perceive a sort of charm for the incomplete, the unfinished hems, the raw cuts, as Rei Kawakubo asserts, brand founder and designer, are a way to project the dress onto the future, to leave open the chance that something else could be generated.

Comme des Garçons, SS2014, TopComme des Garçons, SS2014, TopComme des Garçons, SS 2014, Jacket

This self-taught well-read designer challenges herself collection after collection to create something new, radical, absolutely fresh. In this way her “fashion” becomes a tool for the mind liberation, an unceasing questioning and pushing behind the faint boundary between art and fashion, an incessant game of tensions and research, of vibrations, references and provocations.

Comme des Garçons, SS2014, ShowroomComme des Garçons, SS 2014, Cage DressComme des Garçons, SS2014, Shoe CoversComme des Garçons, SS 2014, Shoes

For the Spring-Summer 2014 Rei Kawakubo declares that the only way to make something different is to start with the intention to not design clothes. Actually on the catwalk moving sculptures, that not even meet anymore the logics of functionality, wearability and aesthetic harmony, succeed one another. The black colour leit-motif interrupted by shocking pink splashes, together with the brief musical themes, creates an uninterrupted tension bringing the spectator to ask himself: -what she could do more than this?-.

Comme des Garçons, SS 2014, DressComme des Garçons, SS 2014, JacketComme des Garçons, SS 2014, Dress

As a dodecaphonic musical language or a jazz piece with a sonority unpleasant at the first listening, these shapes are an invitation to the silence, an invitation to go past the well-known in order to open the mind and the spirit to new horizons and new perspectives. In other word, to grow up.

Comme des Garçons, SS2014, DressComme des Garçons, SS2014, DressComme des Garçons, SS 2014, Dress

Discover the Spring/Summer 2014 collection on IVO MILAN!

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Paamboli, the name of a very simple Spanish dish consisting of bread and tomato, becomes the title of a summer collection which the Italian Elle editor-in-chief pointed out at the beginning of the season as a 2014 summer passe-partout. Who are we talking about? Daniela Gregis, of course!

Daniela Gregis, Spring/Summer 2014, White, DressDaniela Gregis, Spring/Summer 2014, White, Jacket, Trousers

The basic ingredients of the Mediterranean cuisine become to the Italian designer the best synthesis of a project which choose the brightness of the red colour as a telling of the most light natural textile versions. The linen, the cotton and the silk lead the shade through different levels of movement and expression. The chromatic note assumes on the silk the airy wideness of the twilight sea breeze, while on the linen, always washed and creased, the harshness of the summer heat has been mitigated by the coolest of the fibres and drawn with the naïve signs of a bad managed paint brush on the weft of the basketweave fabric. Again, the red insists on the cotton seersucker in tiny textures, sometimes interrupted by zebra stripes which accompany its dominance or, more discretely, brighten up the joyful floral bouquet of the Londoner liberty.

Daniela Gregis, Spring/Summer 2014, Red, Dress, LinenDaniela Gregis, Spring/Summer 2014, Red, Dress, Silk

But the Gregis relaxed language can’t take itself to the extreme only on the crimson, to the initial Paamboli she commits only the concision appropriate to un unforgettable evocation: the summer!

With no hesitation it is colour, joy and fantasy…it is holiday, blue, dazzled whiteecrù or printed as a souvenir on carefree pink jackets.

Daniela, gregis, Spring/Summer 2014, Blue, Dress, TrippenDaniela Gregis, Spring/Summer 2014, Blue, Dress, Trippen

Daniela Gregis dress with top bodice in plain coloured cotton, skirt in cotton patchwork and garment washed linen, different dark tones, full shoulder with 3/4 sleeves and internal split, 2 pockets, eyelets at the sides for drapery hem, doubled over and reversible.

Flip-flop Trippen sandal with classic large sole, cowhide metallic leather strings drawing an open V on the instep, band around the ankle with velcro closure, rubber contour sole.

Stainless steel La Molla necklace.

Daniela Gregis, Spring/Summer 2014, Dress, Pink, Jacket, TrippenDaniela Gregis, Spring/Summer 2014, Dress, Pink, Jacket

Daniela Gregis longuette dress in linen and cotton, cotton singlet bodice with boat neckline, wide pleated skirt in linen, side pockets, raw cut two-colour seams.

Daniela Gregis slightly tapered jacket in cotton liberty with “travel” print, garment washed, single breasted, collar with small lapel, closure with one fabric cufflink button, 2 pockets sewn onto hemline, one central split on the back.

Trippen sandal with large sole, cowhide leather side edge and cotton string crossing all the instep, string closure around the ankle, rubber contour sole.

Daniela Gregis, Spring/Summer 2014, Trousers, Top, Jacket, Bag, TrippenDaniela Gregis, Spring/Summer 2014, Top, Bag, Jacket, Trousers, Trippen

Daniela Gregis linen singlet top with thin straps, flat and fitted at the top, 2 closed splits folding outwards on the sides, in linen.

Daniela Gregis wide leg psychedelic polygon painted cotton seersucker trousers, turn-up in the end, side pockets, coulisse closure with string-

Daniela Gregis short jacket in washed and chequered cotton, one breast with small lapel, closure with large safety pin, sleeves above wrist with internal split, straight cut, one pocket sewn onto breast and two side pockets along the hemline.

Daniela Gregis medium multicoloured bag in hand-worked cotton and hemp, flattened at the bottom basket shape, double scoubidou handle rum from side to side, it can be worn as a shoulder bag, rounded bottom, h 18 cm, w 17 cm, bottom diameter 36 cm.

Trippen sandal with large sole, cowhide leather side edge and cotton string crossing all the instep, string closure around the ankle, rubber contour sole.

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In the middle of spring and with the catalogue almost complete, we can finally give life to some suggestions with the colours and the movements of the real life. Yes, because it is inside the most authentic world that we work and spend our time, inside very concrete boundaries, often shaped by necessity and objective urgencies, or more simply, quotidian. A warning, this is not a top model show but simple experiments tested on ourselves.

 

Also an occasion to introduce you our Francesca, young IVO MILAN new entry, a precious backing for our communications and the online store replies…

 

So we tried new matching, putting together different ideas, colours and fibres. In a new and interesting dialogue between them, the silhouettes of our aficionados, Yohji Yamamoto, Junya Watanabe, Rick Owens, Daniela Gregis, get in touch with the new experimentations of the Korean brand Forme d’Expression, expressive talent produced in Italy, and draw themselves alongside the eclectic British tailoring of Vivienne Westwood, the great new entry of this spring/summer with the Gold and the Red Label. The pictures here below can guide you and maybe inspire you in the discovery of the fabrics, the cuts, the volumes you will find in the shop in the next months. Enjoy it!

 

Forme d'expression, Rick Owens, Trippen, Spring/Summer 2014

Forme d'expression, Rick Owens, Trippen, Spring/Summer 2014

Forme d'expression, Rick Owens, Trippen, Spring/Summer 2014

Forme d’expression top shirt in chambray iridescent cotton gauze, sleeveless, wide and draped neck, draped around the waist, fitted at the waist line, wider and symmetric bottom.

Forme d’expression longuette skirt in linen with Pollock type “scribble” print, bell shape, longer on the sides, wallet closure emphasised with a button, side pockets.

Rick Owens wool etamine jacket with shawl jacket with draped silk lapels, single breasted, single button closure, slightly fitted at the waist, two small pockets on the front, two slits on the back, inside pockets, lined.

Trippen boot in cowhide leather and rubber sole, vamp with stripes, zip closure on the back of the ankle.

 

Vivienne Westwood Red Label, Trippen, Spring/Summer 2014

Vivienne Westwood Red Label, Trippen, Spring/Summer 2014

Vivienne Westwood Red Label, Trippen, Spring/Summer 2014

Vivienne Westwood Red Label, Trippen, Spring/Summer 2014

Vivienne Westwood – Red Label crêpe de chine heart print short shirt , short sleeves adjustable with a small button on the shoulder, thin line, hole on the front between the first and the second button, rounded bottom.

Vivienne Westwood – Red Label basketweaved linen and viscose high waist trousers, soft line with darts, equipped with brace/belt, with loops, button and zip closure, two side welt pockets, a small diagonal pocket with button on the back, roll up bottom. 

Trippen high clog with cowhide leather bands and enamelled wood sole covered with non-slip rubber, leather band with velcro closure, heel height 7,5 cm.

Junya Watanabe, La Molla, Spring/Summer 2014Junya Watanabe, La Molla, Spring/Summer 2014Junya Watanabe, La Molla, Spring/Summer 2014

Junya Watanabe, La Molla, Spring/Summer 2014

Junya Watanabe cotton jersey top, boat neck, sleeveless, close-fitting line, curled with a spiral movement.

Junya Watanabe leatherette long skirt with disassembled and re-sewn jeans application in printed “etno navaho” denim, flared and asymmetric line, fringed bottom.

La Molla necklace in stainless steel.

Daniela Gregis, Yohji Yamamoto, Rosa Mosa, Spring/Summer 2014

Daniela Gregis, Yohji Yamamoto, Rosa Mosa, Spring/Summer 2014

Daniela Gregis, Yohji Yamamoto, Rosa Mosa, Spring/Summer 2014

Daniela Gregis, Yohji Yamamoto, Rosa Mosa, Spring/Summer 2014

Daniela Gregis wide fit shirt in silk crepe de chine, boat neckline, elbow length sleeves with internal split, 2 internal side pockets, doubled over and raw cut profiles, 2 small side splits on the hem.

Daniela Gregis jacket in embossed cotton with two-colour vertical stripes, in white and vanilla, crew-neck, slightly double breasted, closure with button-up collar, a side pocket sewn onto the hem, splits on the sleeve hem, straight fit.

Yohji Yamamoto garçon style trousers in light slashed poplin cotton, overturned belt, soft line with darts, belt loops, buttons and zip closure, two diagonal side pockets, two small pockets with buttons on the back.

Rosa Mosa cotton canvas pois print and leather sneakers with rubber sole.

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Issey Miyake Spring/Summer 2014

He just turned seventy-six years old and he spent forty of them doing what he loves the most, the designer. And not a fashion designer but “simply” a designer as Issey Miyake prefers to be defined. During his long career he actually designed everything, from bicycles to exhibition spaces, design means life to him and designing involves create the time we are living.

Issey Miyake Spring/Summer 2014

So dresses are for Miyake another tool to experience, to express himself, to have fun and bring joy. Sensibility, curiosity and an undoubted ingeniousness brought him to the identification of techniques and materials so innovative that till now nobody has tried to emulate or imitate them. At the beginning of the 90’s with the launch of the Pleats Please line, Miyake brought his although simplified creations to a wider public. Similar to this operation, a new experiment is launched ten years later: Cauliflower, where the fabric surface recalls the cauliflower texture. Here ingeniousness solves the hoary problem of the sizes. A piece of clothing includes three of them and the whole collection is one size.

Issey Miyake Spring/Summer 2014

In the Issey Miyake Spring-Summer 2014 collection, designed by young Yoshiyuki Miyamae, the airy fabrics and the pleats turn light into something wearable. From the brighter white to the sunset-like dark red, passing by the intense blue of the sky during day-time, strips of rainbow parade on the catwalk.

Issey Miyake Spring/Summer 2014

The fabric experimentation dare the force of gravity with the diagonally or even radially pleating, producing in the dress unexpected drapes. The polyester fabric, usually a little bit shiny to substitute silk, becomes dull and looks like cotton. Or the warp of a light plain knitted fabric becomes pleated cloth without interruption. In this atmosphere of continuous inventions the music as well is not left to chance.

Issey Miyake Sprin/Summer 2014

The Japanese musician Ei Wada transformed television screens into percussions, using the light and the electrostatic emitted to create the sound, composing an innovative soundtrack, absolutely in line with the spirit of this brand: there is no nostalgia or reference to the past, the look is always turned towards the future, to find solutions to new challenges and new technologies to realize them.

Ei Wada Issey Miyake

 

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