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   IVO MILAN – Radical Fashion Blog


Born from a
Pleats Please experiment, the Issey Miyake cult bag has been ‘baptized’ as an independent project with the name BaoBao only in the 2000, a symbolic tribute to the futuristic Guggheneim Museum of Bilbao, designed by the Canadian architecture Frank O. Gehry and opened in the 1997.

A not casual connection with Gehry work that highlights the ambitions and the awareness of having constructed an object with an high level of beauty and innovation.

Starting from a traditional principle such as the origami, and form a primary inlay, the Issey Miyake Maison develops a prototype with unlimited plastic potentials. The PVC plates joined together with new mathematic-textile techniques, shape a changeable accessory, that model itself according to its content, to the way how is wore, or even just how is put down. In a constant game of shapes and reflections, the colours are enhanced by the gleams that the PVC itself catches and reflects.

It is also treated at the same level of the best vehicle bodies, in fact the small triangular modulus undergoes to the same spectacular and indelible painting of the Lexus cars, excellence of the well-known Japanese brand Toyota, in a twinning thinkable only by the Miyake ideational farsightedness.

Every tiny particular of this object refers to the complexity hidden behind its designing. Moreover, thanks to the sophisticated proprietary technologies developed by the Maison, it’s rooted out the recurring problem of the production waste (here completely non-existent) and the final product becomes an unique ensemble, sheltered from badly realised clones and replicas.

The umpteenth genius strike of Issey Miyake that, through Bao Bao line, with its different models from bags to the more basic key holder, made again accessible and wearable the joy of colour and the limitless expressive possibilities of shapes.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Yohji, Yamamoto, SS, 2015, Jumpsuit

The unfailing exercises around the black colour of the great Japanese master compose a Spring/Summer 2015 definitely less austere and formal than the previous editions.

Slimmer volumes, alternated with more bare widenesses, underline an explicit femininity, almost surprising for the Yohji Yamamoto’s strict formal tradition, interpreter of an intellectual decency that is hardly able to identify itself in manifest gender simplification. The emerging of a new sensuality, inside complex and nonconformist stylistic habits, hardly could tell itself or could be identify through predictable codes, as bareness and tight lines.

Yohji respects characters and feminine shapes with the poetic intensity of the silk, operated with ancient and laborious Ikat dyeings or embellished by metallic sequins on rhinestones anything but regular.

The textile virtuosities meets themselves also in less striking expressions, with mimetic effects that hide the Prince of Wales and give it back creased and faded on dark black tones, but also shaded and pictorial floral printing or on the devoré from which field of flowers surface. If the more noble traditional heritage intervenes in the choosing of the fabrics, it’s always in the lines constituent ability that the Yohji’s aesthetic knowledge recognize and complete itself: a strategic balance of void and height, with asymmetries placed along the more critical points of the feminine silhouette, allow even to the less regular figure to find out itself suddenly of a completely unexpected charm and beauty!

Yohji, Yamamoto, Jumpsuit, SS, 2015

Yohji Yamamoto wide trousers jumpsuit in wool gabardine with rhinestone and silk braces with metallic stitched sequins, central zip closure on the front, 2 vertical welt pockets on the breast, 2 on the side and 2 on the back with flaps, side vertical buttons.

Trippen short, tight-fitting boot with cubic, Japanese-type sole, in light cowhide.

Yohji, Yamamoto, SS, 2015

Yohji Yamamoto long jumpsuit dress in plain crêpe de chine and ‘ikat’ printing on the back, central wide-skirted pleating on the back, central zip closure on the front, 2 vertical pockets on the breast, 2 on the back with flaps, side vertical buttons.

Trippen short, tight-fitting boot with cubic, Japanese-type sole, in light cowhide.

Yohji, Yamamoto, Ikat, Jacket, SS, 2015

Yohji Yamamoto silk crêpe de chine jacket with part in different plain colours and ‘ikat Laos’ printing, single-breasted, V neck, two buttons closure, one small flap pocket at the hip, one side hip-length and the one calf-length.

Y’s Yohji Yamamoto creased cotton etamine and viscose trousers, two diagonal pockets on the front and one small pocket with button on the back, belt loops, small band with side external zip at the bottom, straight line.

Trippen flat men style shoes, featuring round toe, a lace-up fastening and a cut away detail on the sides.

Yohji, Yamamoto, Jacket, Divided, Skirt, SS, 2015

Yohji Yamamoto double-breasted jacket in cotton and linen gauze, revers, two vertical welt pocket with inner net.

Yohji Yamamoto wide sahrouel trousers in devoré chiffon with stylized flowers in rayon and silk, side waist band at the belt, one vertical welt pocket.

Trippen short, tight-fitting boot with cubic, Japanese-type sole, in light cowhide.

Yohji, Yamamoto, Outfit, SS, 2015

Yohji Yamamoto short blouson in Prince of Wales creased and shaded in wool and polyester, shirt neck, button closure, shoulder badges, side small belts at the hem, 2 flap pockets and button on the breast, interlaced strings at the cuffs.

Yohji Yamamoto long and asymmetric tencel skirt with floral printing, fabric appendixes at the hips, 1 side horizontal pocket, side zip closure, adjustable band with button at the belt, longer on one side.

Trippen short, tight-fitting boot with cubic, Japanese-type sole, in light cowhide.

Yohji, Yamamoto, Ikat, Jacket, Skirt, SS, 2015

Yohji, Yamamoto, Outfit, SS, 2015

Yohji, Yamamoto, SS, 2015, skirt

Yohji Yamamoto plain crêpe de chine single-breasted jacket on a side and the other with ‘ikat’ printing, revers, an half longer, Japanese frogs closure, back movement at the hem with stitched small slits.

Yohji Yamamoto calf-length skirt in tencel etamine with a side shibori treatment in relief with a ‘bouquet’ effect, side zip closure, soft line draped on the side.

Trippen short, tight-fitting boot with cubic, Japanese-type sole, in light cowhide.

Yohji, Yamamoto, Jacket, Bra, Suspender, SS, 2015

Yohji Yamamoto single-breasted viscose etamine jacket, cut revers with contrasting colour thread, stitched collar, ‘zen’ threads on the shoulders, 2 flap and button pockets, 1 central slit.

Yohji Yamamoto decorative suspender bra in silk with ikat pattern printing.

Yohji Yamamoto cigarette trousers in linen and viscose etamine, zip and button closure, 2 diagonal pockets on the front, 2 patch pockets on the back, belt with adjustable buttons.


 


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DANIELA-GREGIS-ORATORIO DELLA PASSIONE

Straight from the fashion show held in Milan at the Oratorio of Sant’Ambrogio last Thursday our preview of the Daniela Gregis A/W 2015-16 collection.

Enjoy!

Daniela, Gregis, FW, 2016

Daniela, Gregis, FW, 2016

Daniela, Gregis, FW, 2016

Daniela, Gregis, FW, 2016

Daniela, Gregis, FW, 2016

Daniela, Gregis, FW, 2016

Daniela, Gregis, FW, 2016

Daniela, Gregis, FW, 2016

Daniela, Gregis, FW, 2016

Daniela, Gregis, FW, 2016

Daniela, Gregis, FW, 2016

Daniela, Gregis, FW, 2016

Daniela, Gregis, FW, 2016

Daniela, Gregis, FW, 2016

Daniela, Gregis, FW, 2016

Daniela, Gregis, FW, 2016

Daniela, Gregis, FW, 2016

Daniela, Gregis, FW, 2016

Daniela, Gregis, FW, 2016

Daniela, Gregis, FW, 2016

Daniela, Gregis, FW, 2016

Daniela, Gregis, FW, 2016

Daniela, Gregis, FW, 2016

Daniela, Gregis, FW, 2016

Daniela, Gregis, FW, 2016

Daniela, Gregis, FW, 2016

Daniela, Gregis, FW, 2016

Daniela, Gregis, FW, 2016

Daniela, Gregis, FW, 2016

Daniela, Gregis, FW, 2016

Daniela, Gregis, FW, 2016

Daniela, Gregis, FW, 2016

Daniela, Gregis, FW, 2016

Daniela, Gregis, FW, 2016

Daniela, Gregis, FW, 2016

Daniela, Gregis, FW, 2016

 

 

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Comme, des, Garçons, Cape, SS 2015

Comme des Garçons abstract pea coat similar to a short cape made of technical treated polyester overlapping fabric layers , flared sleeve, raw cut trimmings, strap buckle closure on the neck.

From the cold bi-dimensional light of the white colour to the tridimensional shades of the chiaroscuro, the Spring/Summer 2015 makes its debut online under new spotlights.

A turning point revealing openly an heartfelt need to amplify that narrative difference expressed by the garments composing our catalogue. An attempt to give life, longer than the static time of a flash, to the possible worlds of Rei Kawakubo-Comme des Garçons, Daniela Gregis, Yohji Yamamoto, Forme D’Expression but also the less well-known new-entries as Un-Namable, to the more renowned proposals of Vivienne Westwood.

Trying to compensate for the less light with thousands of photos available, we invite you to reflect more, to observe and, who knows, finally to bring nearer the same evocative atmosphere of the shop in Padua.

Daniela, Gregis, Dress, Coat, SS 2015

Daniela Gregis waterproof silk faille overcoat with spots pattern, two patch pockets, ‘Gregis’ holes on the sides.

Daniela Gregis cotton gauze calf-length dress, boat neck, sleeveless, bodice with vertical and horizontal seams with a loom effect, wide doubled skirt, side vertical welt pockets, ‘Gregis’ holes on the sides, sash in the same fabric.

Trippen white lace up shoes in vegetable-tanned calf leather treated with wax finish, wood wedge with para rubber sole.

Daniela, Gregis, SS 2015, Jacket, Dress

Daniela Gregis dress with knitted cotton bodice and doubled skirt in embossed vicky cotton and striped silk, boat neck, ¾ sleeve, two side vertical welt pockets, ‘Gregis’ holes on the sides, reversible.

Daniela Gregis man jacket in washed linen canvas with pastel spots printing, slim fit, single-breasted with small lapels, two fabric cuff links closure, two welt pocket at the hem and one on the breast, cuff slit, two back slits.

Daniela, Gregis, Dress, Jacket, SS 2015

Daniela Gregis wide double face jacket: one side in cotton liberty with small flowers and and the other one in linen, crew-neck, single-breasted, ¾ sleeve, two side vertical welt pockets, ‘Gregis’ holes on the sides, reversible.

Daniela Gregis cotton gauze calf-length dress, boat neck, sleeveless, bodice with vertical and horizontal seams with a loom effect, wide doubled skirt, side vertical welt pockets, ‘Gregis’ holes on the sides, sash in the same fabric.

Daniela, Gregis, Dress, Jacket, SS 2015

Daniela Gregis wide double face jacket: one side in cotton liberty with shaded polka-dots and the other one in linen gauze, crew-neck, single-breasted, ¾ sleeve, two side vertical welt pockets, ‘Gregis’ holes on the sides, reversible.

Daniela Gregis cotton gauze calf-length dress, boat neck, sleeveless, bodice with vertical and horizontal seams with a loom effect, wide doubled skirt, side vertical welt pockets, ‘Gregis’ holes on the sides, sash in the same fabric.

comme-des-garcons-dress-ss-2015

Comme des Garçons calf- length sheath dress in wool worsted drapery pinstripe fabric with torn stripes on the front, rounded collar, half sleeve, zip central closure on the back.

Comme, des, Garçons, SS, 2015, Dress, Bag

Comme des Garçons Comme des Garçons calf-length dress in polyester georgette with ‘pixel’ effect printing, rounded collar, open on the front with buttons, two small patch pockets on the hip and patch small pocket on the breast, attached strap, long sleeve.

Comme des Garçons Comme des Garçons shopper bag in cowhide leather and double bamboo handles, metal small chain, an inner zip pocket, h 43 cm x w 37 cm.

Yohji, Yamamoto, Jacket, SS 2015

Yohji Yamamoto silk crêpe de chine jacket with part in different plain colours and ‘ikat Laos’ printing, single-breasted, V neck, two buttons closure, one small flap pocket at the hip, one side hip-length and the one calf-length.

Y’s Yohji Yamamoto creased cotton etamine and viscose trousers, two diagonal pockets on the front and one small pocket with button on the back, belt loops, small band with side external zip at the bottom, straight line.

Trippen flat men style shoes, featuring round toe, a lace-up fastening and a cut away detail on the sides.

Y's, Yohji, Yamamoto, Outfit, SS 2015

Y’s Yohji Yamamoto short bomber in creased cotton etamine and viscose, crew-neck, zip closure with double slide, two diagonal welt pockets with press button, knitted band at the hem and on the cuffs.

Y’s Yohji Yamamoto viscose shirt with stitched cardigan as shrug in knitted viscose and linen, side ring neck, two hidden press button closure, open under the armpit, wide line.

Y’s Yohji Yamamoto calf-length wrap skirt in poplin tencel, belt closure with three horizontal buttons, wide half-full line.

Y's, Yohji, Yamamoto, Overall, SS 2015

Trousers jumpsuit in doubled polyester georgette, bodice with V neck and buttons, sleeveless, man trousers with diagonal pockets, zip and stitched belt, central vertical stitching along the leg, knitted band at the bottom.

Shoe with classic “Trippen” wide sole, upper in cowhide leather with colour contrast edges and side holes with diagonal stripes “admiral rank” like, asymmetric closure with strings, rubber arch support.

Y's, Yohji, Yamamoto, Jeans, T-Shirt, SS 2015

Y’s Yohji Yamamoto cotton jersey t-shirt with striped cupro and polyamide overlapping panel, large staggred crew-neck on two levels, flared sleeve.

Y’s Yohji Yamamoto calf-length divided sahrouel skirt in treated and shaded cotton denim, one diagonal pocket, zip and button closure, elastic band and waistband at the belt, diagonal cut.

Shoe with classic “Trippen” wide sole, upper in cowhide leather with colour contrast edges and side holes with diagonal stripes “admiral rank” like, asymmetric closure with strings, rubber arch support.

Haat, SS, 2015, Outfit

HAAT wide cardigan in knitted cotton and paper, crew-neck, raglan shoulder, over the cuff sleeve length, fabric-covered buttons, straight line.

HAAT wide trousers in ‘tea dungaree’ jacquard cotton, wrap closure with button, zip and fabric, two pinces on the front, two vertical welt pockets on the front and horizontal on the back.

Trippen flat ankle boot in soft elk leather, featuring a round toe, bias zip detail on the vamp, side zip fastening.

HAAT, SS 2015, Coat, Trousers

HAAT light overcoat in linen, cotton and paper canvas with small a-jour embroidery on the trimmings and on the back, crew-neck, hidden press buttons closure, two side patch pockets.

HAAT very baggy sahrouel trousers in ‘special tea dungaree’ cotton canvas with sewn fabric strings, elastic band at the belt, zip and button closure on the hip, one side vertical welt pocket.

Trippen flat ankle boot in soft elk leather, featuring a round toe, bias zip detail on the vamp, side zip fastening.

Pleats, Please, Issey, Miyake, Outfit, SS 2015

PLEATS PLEASE Issey Miyake polyester vertical pleating overcoat doubled along the lapels and the hips with triangular inlays in contrasting colour, flared line, wearable upside/down.

PLEATS PLEASE Issey Miyake polyester vertical pleating dress doubled along the hips with triangular inlays in contrasting colour, sleeveless, V neck, flared line.

Trippen high clog with cowhide leather bands and wood sole.covered with non-slip rubber, leather band with velcro closure, heel height 7,5 cm.

Pleats, Please, Issey, Miyake, Daniela, Gregis, Skirt, SS 2015

PLEATS PLEASE Issey Miyake heavy polyester short raincoat with a vertical pleating becoming flat, hood, high neck with press buttons, zip closure, 2 side flap pockets with press button, waistband at the hem, press buttons on the cuff, amphora line.

Daniela Gregis linen canvas sarong skirt, waistband closure and two small belt loops in light fabric thread, it should be curled on the front, hem with waves.

Shoe with classic “Trippen” wide sole, upper in cowhide leather with colour contrast edges and side holes with diagonal stripes “admiral rank” like, asymmetric closure with strings, rubber arch support.

Final, Home, Blouson, SS 2015

Final Home polyester net blouson with zip, neck with hood, two vertical small pocket with zip, zip closure, zips along the arms and the shoulder transforming the blouson in a cape when open.

Y’s Yohji Yamamoto creased cotton etamine and viscose trousers, two diagonal pockets on the front and one small pocket with button on the back, belt loops, small band with side external zip at the bottom, straight line.

Vivienne, Westwood, Red, Label, SS 2015, Dress

Vivienne Westwood Red Label jacquard viscose dress with paisley and two-colours checks, large shoulder strap, low-necked, fitted bodice, back central buttons and strap closure, welt vertical side pockets, egglike bottom with large not ironed pleats.

Trippen high clog with cowhide leather bands and wood sole.covered with non-slip rubber, leather band with velcro closure, heel height 7,5 cm.

Forme, D'expression, Jacket, SS 2015

Forme D’Expression man long jacket in cotton tweed with fabric tufts outlining a geometrical pattern, single-breasted with small lapels, button closure, one button on the neck, two flap pockets at the hem, a central slit on the back.

Forme D’Expression short skirt in washed and creased linen canvas and ramie, waistband closure and side panels to be laced or on the front or on the back, two vertical welt pockets.

Very, Busy, Knitwear, SS 2015

VeryBusy tunic sweater in knitted printed linen with a painted effect pattern, wide rounded neck, flared sleeve, a small patch pocket at the hem, band at the hem.

Y’s Yohji Yamamoto creased cotton etamine and viscose trousers, two diagonal pockets on the front and one small pocket with button on the back, belt loops, small band with side external zip at the bottom, straight line.




 

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un-namable, ss, 2015, showroom

Click here to watch IVO MILAN at work at UN-NAMABLE showroom in Carpi.

Emerging reality, located in the famous textile district of Carpi, Italy, Un-Namable makes use of the precious local manufacturing heritage to realize a womenswear line easily integrable with the formal complexity of the most important exponents of the so-called Japanese school.

With an increasing interest and wealth of content, a timeless fashion idea is consolidating itself, freely accessible, without any aesthetic conditioning from the specialized press. A front that express itself particularly in the work of young designers, prepared by the richness of spurs, of contaminations and experiences offered by a contemporaneity definitely shortened by the speed of the informations.

So it’s inevitable to look for similarities and evocations in the Un-Namable clothing: Carpe Diem? Rick Owens? Koeun Park herself of Forme d’Expression could be the stylistic references of Eita Nakamura, the very young Italo-Japanese designer of the Emilian company. A particular attention in researching fabrics with a ‘worn’ appearance, not blended colours, just outlined geometrical shapes, basically opened, allows Un-Namable to place itself in the best international exhibition spaces.

A great balance between planning quality, textile offer and costs accessibility makes the new brand a perfect trait d’union between worlds usually reserved to a more elitish public and the need of representation of vanguards still not so much included and interpreted.

un-namable, handwriting, print, dress, ss, 2015

UN-NAMABLE cotton canvas calf-length dress with ‘handwriting’ effect printing, plain horizontal band at the hem, draped neck, sash in the same fabric, straight fit.

Trippen heavy-duty boot style ankle boot in cowhide leather, closure with strings and strap with outer side buckle, smooth leather on the heel and on the toe, the other parts in rough leather, removable cork insole, rubber sole.

un-namable, pea coat, ss 2015

UN-NAMABLE cotton plush pea coat with muslin lining , hood with cotton canvas printed lining, zip closure, two front welt small pockets, tuxedo effect longer back.

UN-NAMABLE treated linen canvas balloon trousers with inside out plush gussets, waistband at the belt, darts on the front, two vertical front pockets, one horizontal small pocket on the back.

UN-NAMABLE over sweater in mélange jersey sponge cloth, wide crew-neck, ¾ sleeves, stitching on the outside, over fit.

Shoe with classic “Trippen” wide sole, upper in cowhide leather with colour contrast edges and side holes with diagonal stripes “admiral rank” like, asymmetric closure with strings, rubber arch support.

un-namable, yuta, top, skirt, ss, 2015

UN-NAMABLE hip waistcoat in jute on the outside and cotton muslin on the inside, crew-neck, diagonal side opening.

UN-NAMABLE light cotton jersey vest with iridescent effect, wide crew-neck, wide arm hole, cut raw profiles, soft fit.

UN-NAMABLE washed cotton muslin calf-length skirt, converging pleating on the front, string belt loops, central zip closure on the back.

Trippen heavy-duty boot style ankle boot in cowhide leather, closure with strings and strap with outer side buckle, smooth leather on the heel and on the toe, the other parts in rough leather, removable cork insole, rubber sole.

un-namable, wiastcoat, trousers, ss, 2015

UN-NAMABLE linen waistcoat with sewn panels in canvas and rough gauze, ring neck with closed crossing descending till the hem.

UN-NAMABLE treated linen canvas balloon trousers with inside out plush gussets, waistband at the belt, darts on the front, two vertical front pockets, one horizontal small pocket on the back.

un-namable, white, dress, ss 2015

UN-NAMABLE doubled cotton canvas calf-length dress, crew-neck, sleeveless, side folded hem, diagonal seams on the bodice.

Shoe with classic “Trippen” wide sole, upper in cowhide leather with colour contrast edges and side holes with diagonal stripes “admiral rank” like, asymmetric closure with strings, rubber arch support.

un-namable, waistcoat, t-shirt, trousers, ss-2015

UN-NAMABLE washed linen long waistcoat, shawl neck, two vertical welt pockets on the sides, seams in contrasting faded colour.

UN-NAMABLE washed linen canvas baggy short trousers, waistband at the belt, two patch pockets on the back, diagonal and horizontal seams at the knee.

un-namable, dress, ss 2015

UN-NAMABLE heavy treated cotton canvas dress, flared line, cowl neck, sleeveless with wide armholes, 2 side vertical welt pocket, open holes at the hips.

Trippen heavy-duty boot style ankle boot in cowhide leather, closure with strings and strap with outer side buckle, smooth leather on the heel and on the toe, the other parts in rough leather, removable cork insole, rubber sole.

un-namable, top, ss 2015

UN-NAMABLE knitted cotton, polyester and polyamide top with ‘moth-eaten’ effect, crew-neck, sleeveless, a side longer than the other with irregular hem, wearable front/back.

UN-NAMABLE washed linen canvas baggy short trousers, waistband at the belt, two patch pockets on the back, diagonal and horizontal seams at the knee.

Shoe with classic “Trippen” wide sole, upper in cowhide leather with colour contrast edges and side holes with diagonal stripes “admiral rank” like, asymmetric closure with strings, rubber arch support.

un-namable, black, dress, ss 2015

UN-NAMABLE short cotton jersey dress, draped neck, flared sleeve, strap with zips.

Trippen heavy-duty boot style ankle boot in cowhide leather, closure with strings and strap with outer side buckle, smooth leather on the heel and on the toe, the other parts in rough leather, removable cork insole, rubber sole.

un-namable, apron, ss 15

UN-NAMABLE cotton canvas apron with black and white printing, double face: handwriting effect on the outside, landscape effect on the inside, strings closure.

UN-NAMABLE washed cotton muslin trousers, soft fit, two side vertical welt pockets, two horizontal welt small pockets on the back, dart on the front becoming a pleat-belt loop, zip and button closure.

Shoe with classic “Trippen” wide sole, upper in cowhide leather with colour contrast edges and side holes with diagonal stripes “admiral rank” like, asymmetric closure with strings, rubber arch support.

 

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