www.ivomilan.it

   IVO MILAN – Radical Fashion Blog

Issey. Miyake, Packaging, AW 2014

Packaging by Maison Issey Miyake for the circular pleated jacket.

Issey, Miyake, Sculpture, Jacket, AW 2014

Issey Miyake ‘sculpture’ short and fitted at the waist jacket in triacetate and polyester circular pleated printed with regular small bars, shawl neck, small button closure.

Less than one month from the Christmas holidays, many cities have already mounted sumptuous decorations on trees, buildings and along the streets. Being a great occasion to set on stage the kitsch or more successful urban aesthetic experimentations, the voltaic excess of the moment lights up for sure the December anxiety-inducing question: What am I giving to…?

A strong anxiolytic against the stress caused by the search with no results, running and dipping into over-crowded and definitely unflattering places, could be starting a more comfortable exploration of the online catalogue…From the painted Very Busy cashmeres to the engineering Bao Bao Issey Miyake bag, or the Fulvio Luparia scarves and the inimitable Issey Miyake pleated spirals, the choice becomes a walk around the Radical Fashion panoramas.

Very, Busy, Painted, Cashmere, AW, 2014

Very Busy 1 thread on point 8 cashmere cardigan with abstract painted effect printing with side windows, reversible.

Vivienne Westwood Red Label ankle length trousers in pinstripe wool, close-fitting, belt with belt loops, zip and ‘Vivienne’ button closure, two diagonal side front pockets, two small welt pockets with triangular flap and small buttons on the back.

Very, Busy, Painted, Cashmere, AW 2014

Very Busy wide sweater in stocking stitch cashmere with tone on tone colour shades , wide crew-neck, reversible.

Comme des garçons Comme des Garçons large skirt in nylon sateen quilted on the inside, elastic band and coulisse on the belt.

Trippen high ankle boots in oiled suede cowhide leather, with laces and small hooks, removable inner cork sole, rubber sole.

Very, Busy, Painted, Cashmere, AW 2014

Very Busy 1 thread on point 8 cashmere sweater with abstract painted effect, high cowl neck, trapeze line, reversible.

Vivienne Westwood Red Label ankle length trousers in pinstripe wool, close-fitting, belt with belt loops, zip and ‘Vivienne’ button closure, two diagonal side front pockets, two small welt pockets with triangular flap and small buttons on the back.

Very, Busy, Painted, Cashmere, AW 2014

Very Busy wide sweater in stocking stitch cashmere with abstract printing with a painted effect, turtle soft neck, reversible.

Trippen high ankle boots in oiled suede cowhide leather, with laces and small hooks, removable inner cork sole, rubber sole.

Very, Busy, Painted, Cashmere, AW 2014

Very Busy 1 thread on point 8 cashmere sweater with abstract painted effect, high cowl neck, trapeze line, reversible.

Vivienne Westwood Red Label ankle length trousers in pinstripe wool, close-fitting, belt with belt loops, zip and ‘Vivienne’ button closure, two diagonal side front pockets, two small welt pockets with triangular flap and small buttons on the back.

Very, Busy, Painted, Cashmere, AW 2014

Very Busy wide cardigan in stocking stitch cashmere with big rectangle pattern in different colours with a painted effect, wide V neck, reversible.

Trippen high ankle boots in oiled suede cowhide leather, with laces and small hooks, removable inner cork sole, rubber sole.

Bao, Bao, Bag, Issey, Miyake, Coat, AW 2014

Bao Bao Issey Miyake small ball bicoloured bag made of three-dimensional triangular plates in metallic PVC repeated with origami calculations on a cotton base, cuff handle, zip closure, circumference 55 cm.

Issey Miyake long, reversible coat in wool and angora bicolour fleece, half-closed neck, three buttons closure, one wrist button, shorter on the front, raglan shoulder, two side diagonal patch pockets.

Bao Bao Issey Miyake medium-sized bag made of triangular plates in glossy polyurethane repeated with origami calculations, press button closure, 2 small pockets on the inside, one with a zip, h 30 cm x w 35 cm.

Yohji Yamamoto wide coat in herringbone light twill in wool and polyamide, big padded neck, double slider zip closure, two welt side vertical pockets, but sleeve with opening and dropped panel, lined.

Trippen heavy-duty boot style ankle boot in cowhide leather, closure with strings and strap with outer side buckle, smooth leather on the heel and on the toe, the other parts in rough leather, removable cork insole, rubber sole.

Bao Bao Issey Miyake small shoulder bag made of triangular plates in matt PVC repeated with origami calculations on a polyester net base, zip closure, an open inner pocket, adjustable shoulder strap, h 20 cm x w 30 cm.

Comme des Garçons Comme des Garçons wide pea-coat in nylon sateen quilted on the inside, buttons closure, hood, asymmetric line with side points, shorter on the front, two inner side patch pockets, open flap under the armpit.

Comme des Garçons dry hand calf-length skirt in heavy knitted wool, polyester, nylon and acrylic, sewn large pleating, elastic and drawstring at the waist.

Comme des Garçons long and thin shoe in cowhide leather, two small symmetric cuts with elastic band barely visible on the instep, rubber sole.

Bao Bao Issey Miyake medium-sized mail bag made of triangular plates in glossy PVC repeated with origami calculations, two dovetailed buttons closure, a small inner pocket, big outside pocket with zip, adjustable shoulder strap, h 30 cm x w 36 cm.

Comme des Garçons soft hand short jacket in wool and polyester on a raw cut white cotton base sticking out from the hem and from the sleeve, crew-neck, buttons closure.

Comme des Garçons dry hand calf-length skirt in heavy knitted wool, polyester, nylon and acrylic, sewn large pleating, elastic and drawstring at the waist.

Fulvio, Luparia, Scarf, Oyuna, Coat, AW 2014

Fulvio Luparia cashmere scarf, W 70 cm. x L 200 cm.

Oyuna plain knitted cashmere coat with padded bib in contrasting colour and irregular diamonds seams, high cowl neck, buttons closure, two vertical side pockets, reversible in/out and up/down.

Fulvio, Luparia, Scarf, Comme, des, Garçons, AW 2014

Fulvio Luparia cashmere scarf, W cm. 90 x L cm. 180.

Comme des Garçons long coat with a pinstriped gabardine base and over heavy knitted wool, polyester, nylon and acrylic applications, crew-neck, single-breasted, no buttons.

‘Classic Trippen’ ankle boot in bicolour cowhide leather, with strings and small hooks, removable cork insole, rubber sole.

Fulvio, Luparia, Scarf, Oyuna, Coat, AW 2014

Fulvio Luparia modal and cashmere scarf, W cm. 140 x L cm. 200.

Oyuna plain knitted cashmere coat with padded bib in contrasting colour and irregular diamonds seams, high cowl neck, buttons closure, two vertical side pockets, reversible in/out and up/down.

Trippen ankle boots in oiled and suede cowhide leather, vertical inner side zip closure, high hill consisting of three blocks with different heights in anti-slip.

Fulvio Luparia silk and cashmere scarf, W cm. 90 x L cm. 180.

Daniela Gregis hand knitted wide cardigan in mohair and silk, high shawl neck, safety pin closure, two small patch pockets at the hem.

Vivienne Westwood Red Label short skirt in pinstripe wool, with asymmetric panels, two side slits, two darts front and back, belt, zip and small button side closure, ‘Red Label’ lined.

‘Classic Trippen’ ankle boot in bicolour cowhide leather, with strings and small hooks, removable cork insole, rubber sole.

Issey Miyake big ring scarf in polyester with three-dimensional cylindrical bubbles pleating, reversible.

Issey Miyake long, reversible coat in wool and angora bicolour fleece, half-closed neck, three buttons closure, one wrist button, shorter on the front, raglan shoulder, two side diagonal patch pockets.

Issey Miyake calf-length dress in diagonal and vertical pleated polyester with large bands printing, sleeveless with asymmetric tips on the sleeve back, tighter basque at the hem, completely asymmetric, wearable shorter lifting up the basque.

Trippen ankle boot in soft suede cowhide leather, with a comma elastic both sides of the ankle, with 2 shells sole.

Issey Miyake short and large horizontal and circular pleated t-shirt in polyester with an alcantara effect, boat neck, flared sleeve.

Issey Miyake tight-fitting trousers in stretch wool canvas and polyurethane, belt loops, zip and button closure, two side diagonal front pockets and two welt back pockets with button, outside split at the hem.

Trippen ankle boot in soft suede cowhide leather, with a comma elastic both sides of the ankle, with 2 shells sole.

Issey Miyake tunic in heavy polyester pleating with a serpentine movement, boat neck, flared sleeve, side welt pockets, irregular segmental hem.

Issey Miyake tight-fitting trousers in stretch wool canvas and polyurethane, belt loops, zip and button closure, two side diagonal front pockets and two welt back pockets with button, outside split at the hem.

Trippen ankle boot in soft suede cowhide leather, with a comma elastic both sides of the ankle, with 2 shells sole.

Issey Miyake short t-shirt in heavy polyester pleating with serpentine movement, boat neck, flared sleeve, irregular segmental hem.

Issey Miyake tight-fitting trousers in stretch wool canvas and polyurethane, belt loops, zip and button closure, two side diagonal front pockets and two welt back pockets with button, outside split at the hem.

Trippen ankle boot in soft suede cowhide leather, with a comma elastic both sides of the ankle, with 2 shells sole.

Zilla small “bread bag” in creased laminated nappa leather in iridescent copper on the outside and matt black on the inside, hand hole, h 31 cm x w 19 cm.

Forme d’Expression long coat in big moss stitch knitted wool, with hood, press buttons closure, two patch pockets.

Trippen heavy-duty boot style ankle boot in cowhide leather, closure with strings and strap with outer side buckle, smooth leather on the heel and on the toe, the other parts in rough leather, removable cork insole, rubber sole.

…And the gift wrap? HEART-BOX and its workforces will be at work to wrap up with papers, twines, colours and glues not only your selection but the most noble gesture, the gift to someone you care!

HEART, BOX, packaging, IVO, MILAN

HEART, BOX, packaging, IVO, MILAN

HEART, BOX, packaging, IVO, MILAN

HEART, BOX, packaging, IVO, MILAN

HEART, BOX, pacjaging, IVO, MILAN

 

 

 

 

Read More

It is a lash of autumn icy wind, suddenly taking us away from the tepid wakes of an already gone summer, dazing us with nostalgia, domestic promises and burning fires, with wood scents and longing hues, that has been captured in the textile patterns of Daniela Gregis winter collection.

With an extraordinary pictorial sensibility, the designer from Bergamo translates the emotional essence of the coldest season through a clever combination of colour and fabric. The cashmere, treated with washes, in the refined chestnut tones returns the surprise of the fruits in the October brushwood, as mushrooms impossible to find and half-opened husks.

The wools, always washed into creased crêpe, take back to the night harshness of dark or clear blue skies.

And in the same way her ever-present silks, being taffetas or crêpe de chine, allure the more melancholic expression of the season, the foliage fleeting fate, from the beauty of the yellows, of the oranges, to the brown of the pile of leaves withering on the ground in the end.

Independent garments, in their brand new solutions, with tubulars changing the shapes from time to time, from fluent and wide to gathered and crouched.

Dresses that are part of a temporality definitely dissociated from the poisoned frenzy of the contemporary metropolis, remembering and inviting with firmness the pleasure of living our time in a better way.

Daniela, Gregis, Dress, AW 2014-15

Daniela Gregis short and large dress in wool crêpe with two open horizontal flounces in which is possible to insert a padded tubular, boat neck, ¾ sleeve with small slit, equipped with a band in the same fabric to be tied at the waist, reversible.

Daniela, Gregis, Jacket, Skirt, AW 2014-15

Daniela Gregis short jacket in washed wool mat, single-breasted, padded collar with lapels, patch side pockets, safety pin closure, back central small slit, slim fit.

Daniela Gregis calf-length skirt in creased and washed wool and linen canvas, coulisse at the belt, flounce at the hem with detachable or to be knot tubular, side slit.

Trippen ankle boot in soft suede cowhide leather, with a comma elastic both sides of the ankle, with 2 shells sole.

Daniela, Gregis, Dress, AW 2014-15

Daniela Gregis calf-length large dress in wool crêpe with an horizontal flounce opened on the sides on the bodice and one at the hem, boat neck, ¾ sleeve with small slit, two side welt pocket, side ‘Gregis’ hole, reversible.

Daniela, Gregis, Dress, AW 2014-15

Daniela Gregis calf-length dress in double basket weaved wool in two different colours inside/outside, shawl neck with detachable padding, irregular hem, ¾ sleeve with small slit, welt side pockets, side ‘Gregis’ holes, reversible.

Trippen ankle boot in soft suede cowhide leather, with a comma elastic both sides of the ankle, with 2 shells sole.

Danila, Gregis, Shawl, Dress, AW 2014-15

Daniela Gregis calf-length dress in washed canvas wool, boat neck, 2 parallel flounces: 1 at the waist and 1 at the hem with removable padded tubular, ¾ sleeve with slit, side welt pockets, raw cut edging, reversible, ‘Gregis’ side holes.

Daniela Gregis big triangle-shaped shawl in heavy square stitch knitted multicolour wool.

Daniela, Gregis, Dress, AW 2014-15

Daniela Gregis long crêpe de chine dress with big polka dots, boat neck, 2 parallel flounces: 1 at the waist and 1 at the hem with removable padded tubular, ¾ sleeve with slit, side welt pockets, reversible, ‘Gregis’ side holes.

Trippen ankle boot in soft suede cowhide leather, with a comma elastic both sides of the ankle, with 2 shells sole.

Daniela, Gregis, Dress, AW 2014-15

Daniela Gregis calf-length dress with knitted cashmere bodice and curled skirt in silk crêpe de chine, boat neck, ¾ sleeve with small slit, side welt pockets, side ‘Gregis’ holes.

Daniela, Gregis, Dress, AW 2014-15

Daniela Gregis calf-length dress with knitted cashmere bodice and silk taffeta skirt, open boat neck with big safety pin, ¾ sleeve with small slit, side welt pockets, side ‘Gregis’ hole, wearable front/back.

Daniela, Gregis, Dress, AW 2014-15

Daniela Gregis calf-length dress with knitted cashmere 2 bands bodice and crêpe de chine raw cut hem, boat neck, ¾ sleeve with slit, side welt pocket, ‘Gregis’ side hole.

Trippen ankle boot in soft suede cowhide leather, with a comma elastic both sides of the ankle, with 2 shells sole.

Daniela, Gregis, Sweater, Aw 2014-15

Daniela Gregis long and large sweater in wool with double manufacturing, high neck with side slits, long sleeve with slits, side slits at the hem.

‘Classic Trippen’ ankle boot in oiled suede cowhide leather with strings and small hooks, removable cork insole, rubber sole.

Daniela, Gregis, Dress, AW 2014-15

Daniela Gregis calf-length dress with washed cashmere canvas bodice and flounced skirt in washed wool crêpe, boat neck, sleeve with slit, side welt pockets, raw cut hem, side ‘Gregis’ holes, wide fit.

Trippen ankle boot in soft suede cowhide leather, with a comma elastic both sides of the ankle, with 2 shells sole.

Daniela, Gregis, Sweater, AW 2014-15

Daniela Gregis hand knitted wide cardigan in mohair and silk, high shawl neck, safety pin closure, two small patch pockets at the hem.

‘Classic Trippen’ ankle boot in oiled suede cowhide leather with strings and small hooks, removable cork insole, rubber sole.

Daniela, Gregis, Dress, AW 2014-15

Daniela Gregis calf-length dress with washed cashmere canvas bodice and flounced skirt in washed wool crêpe, boat neck, sleeve with slit, side welt pockets, raw cut hem, side ‘Gregis’ holes, wide fit.

Daniela, Gregis, Shirt, AW 2014-15

Short niki shirt in silk crêpe de chine, crew-neck with small button, over the wrist sleeve, side slits at the hem.

‘Classic Trippen’ ankle boot in oiled suede cowhide leather with strings and small hooks, removable cork insole, rubber sole.

Daniela, Gregis, Dress, AW 2014-15

Daniela Gregis calf-length dress in printed silk with a multicolour painting effect, open boat neck with two twin small buttons, two side welt pockets, large pleating on the skirt, ¾ sleeve with small slit, side ‘Gregis’ holes, wearable front/back.

Daniela, Gregis, Dress, AW 2014-15

Daniela Gregis calf-length dress in knitted cashmere with stripes, boat neck, long sleeve with small split, side splits at the hem, side ‘Gregis’ holes.

Daniela, Gregis, Sweater, AW 2014-15

Daniela Gregis short sweater in lambswool with stripes, boat neck, over the wrist sleeve with slit, side slits at the hem, t-shirt fit.

‘Classic Trippen’ ankle boot in oiled suede cowhide leather with strings and small hooks, removable cork insole, rubber sole.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Read More

Here the project presentation video produced by Cà Foscari University. Sorry, we are still waiting for the English subtitles but here you can watch some IVO MILAN ordinary life moments with the Cà Foscari researcher Erika Cavriani.

In the last months the University Cà Foscari of Venice –the oldest Business School in Italy and one of the first in Europe- is dealing with IVO MILAN through a research competition, financed by European founds, which investigates the opportunities of the sustainable innovation for the manufacturing business through the cultural heritage ‘refunctionalization’ of the company archive and of our boutique.

Comme, Des, Garçons, Ivo, Milan, Archive, AW 2012-13

Comme des Garçons short dress in dot pattern acetate and polyester jacquard, round neck with peter pan collar effect, short cap sleeves, flap details at the shoulders, asymmetric hem with side frill panels detail, zip fastening at rear, AW 2012-13.

Yohji, Yamamoto, SS 2011, Ivo, Milan, Archive

Yohji Yamamoto asymmetric hemline bustier sleeveless top, featuring structured bustier, asymmetric hemline, string fastened at the back, SS 2011.

Comme des Garçons Comme des Garçons large skirt in nylon sateen quilted on the inside, elastic band and coulisse on the belt.

Trippen heavy-duty boot style ankle boot in cowhide leather, closure with strings and strap with outer side buckle, smooth leather on the heel and on the toe, the other parts in rough leather, removable cork insole, rubber sole.

The exceptionality of this research lies in the fact that for the first time they chose to use and set off the “archive deposit” (partially available online in our YouTube channel and in the Special Room section) of a commercial and not industrial business, recognizing the lead retailer role and identifying the knowledge value deposited in our ‘historical memory’ as a potential strategic hub useful to re-launch the creativity and the innovative capacity of the Italian fashion industry. We have been chosen for the shop personality and for its particular address (radical fashion curator), for the long business history (118 years and today with Sari and Soili, Orlando’s daughters, the IVO MILAN story has now entered into its fifth generation), for the impressive archival heritage gathered together, for the forty-year information technology experience and for the e-commerce website, almost entirely run among ourselves, thanks to which, for more than 6 years, we are operating worldwide.

Junya, Watanabe, AW 2004-05, Ivo, Milan, Archive

Junya Watanabe down padded polyester cape with contrast tone shoulder bands, one button fastening, wide attached sleeves, slightly longer at rear, AW 2004-05.

Junya Watanabe asymmetric dress with bias cut panels in charcoal melange wool jersey, wool check and flower print polyester crepe, fitted bodice and flared skirt, V neck, long sleeves, front and back slanted zip closure, past knee length, raw cut unbalanced hem.

‘Classic Trippen’ ankle boot in bicolour cowhide leather, with strings and small hooks, removable cork insole, rubber sole.

Junya, Watanabe, AW 2005-06, Ivo, Milan, Archive

Junya Watanabe dress in Chanel style checked wool coupled with glossy polyurethane, thin shoulder straps bodice in polyurethane side with folded detail at the waist, full skirt in wool side, full length zip at rear, knee length, AW 2005-06.

Felicity, Brown, Ivo, Milan, SS 2012

Felicity Brown knee length dress featuring a multilayered wide collar, fitted body, belted waist, front skirt in silk and cotton multibands, S/S 2012.

Trippen ankle boots in oiled suede cowhide leather, back flap reversible at the ankle, vertical outside zip closure, high hill with three blocks of different heights in non-slip rubber.

It must be acknowledged that all this happened for the elective affinities we discovered, through our often difficult but timeless dresses, with our costumers, without which it wouldn’t be possible to tell this extraordinary story. And here we have to admit that, more than our storytelling capacity, important was their cultural background, precondition and evidence of a wonderful openness to the new and of an outstanding spirit of independence from fashions and trends.

Sandra, Backlund, AW 2010-11, Ivo, Milan, Archive

Sandra Backlund heavily ribbed grey dress with slim shoulder straps, a cut away opening at the front and a fitted waist. The dress has a large front pleat, curved side panels and tassels at the waist, A/W 2010-11.

Trippen black lace up shoes in vegetable-tanned calf leather treated with wax finish, wood wedge with para rubber sole.

Maison, Martin, Margiela, Ivo, Milan, Archive, AW 2007-8

Maison Martin Margiela padded ringed cape in rabbit fur, AW 2007-08.

Rick Owens legging style trousers very close-fitting in stretch leather, elastic at the belt.

Trippen ankle boot in soft suede cowhide leather, with a comma elastic both sides of the ankle, with 2 shells sole.

Toga, Archives, Ivo, Milan, Archive, SS 2007

Toga Archives short, crew-necked and short-sleeved T-shirt, in micro polyester sequins on a cotton base, S/S 2007.

Toga Archives short skirt in micro polyester sequins on a cotton base.

And for all these reasons we are here to say thank you and to share with all of you this huge satisfaction.

THANK YOU!

Marisa, Sari, Soili, Francesca and Orlando

 

‘Radical Fashion’ to be continued…! Here a selection of some of the most ‘radical’ pieces of this season, A/W 2014-15:

Yohji, Yamamoto, Padded, Coat, AW 2014-15

Yohji Yamamoto wide padded coat in heavy padded cotton, wide neck with hood, no buttons or zip closure, two vertical welt pockets.

Yohji Yamamoto classic twill trousers printed with artist Yasuto Sasada drawings, tight at the bottom, 2 front diagonal pockets and 2 welt pockets with small button on the back, zip and button closure, belt loops and inserted strap with buckle, lined.

Issey, Miyake, AW 2014-15, Dress

Issey Miyake calf-length dress in diagonal and vertical pleated polyester with large bands printing, sleeveless with asymmetric tips on the sleeve back, tighter basque at the hem, completely asymmetric, wearable shorter lifting up the basque.

Trippen ankle boot in soft suede cowhide leather, with a comma elastic both sides of the ankle, with 2 shells sole.

Daniela, Gregis, Dress, Coat, AW 2014-15

Daniela Gregis wide coat in doubled fabric: lambswool canvas and light wool canvas, wide shawl neck with detachable tubular, double big side patch pockets, closure with big safety pin, reversible.

Daniela Gregis calf-length dress in double basket weaved wool in two different colours inside/outside, shawl neck with detachable padding, irregular hem, ¾ sleeve with small slit, welt side pockets, side ‘Gregis’ holes, reversible.

Comme, Des, Garçons, AW 2014-15

Comme des Garçons calf-length dress with heavy knitted abstract long bodice on a polyester georgette bottom with a narrow pleating, sartorial seams in contrasting colour, boat neck, central zip closure on the back.

Comme des Garçons long and thin shoe in cowhide leather, two small symmetric cuts with elastic band barely visible on the instep, rubber sole.



 

 

 

Read More

Assisted by a definitely late autumn, the insistence of our ‘picture coming soon’ starts, day after day, to reduce itself, restraining the embarrassment of who, much to his regret, suffers of the “I haven’t do my homework in time” syndrome. So, taking advantage of a season undecided on showing itself, but most of all trusting in the comprehension of a patient audience, here we are revealing some of the mysterious garments hidden beyond the most read icon of our website…

Issey Miyake, Sculpture Jacket, AW 2014

Issey Miyake ‘sculpture’ short and fitted at the waist jacket in triacetate and polyester circular pleated printed with regular small bars, shawl neck, small button closure.

Issey Miyake tight-fitting trousers in stretch wool canvas and polyurethane, belt loops, zip and button closure, two side diagonal front pockets and two welt back pockets with button, outside split at the hem.

Bao Bao, Bag, Issey Miyake, Coat, AW 2014

Issey Miyake down coat in textured polyester and wool fabric with detachable hausetex fur neck, single-breasted, coulisse at the waist, zip and press button closure, two side half-moon welt pockets.

BAO BAO Issey Miyake square shopping bag with triangular plates in enamelled and silver polyurethane with origami movement on a net structure, medium dimension, adjustable handles, one inner pocket with zip.

Trippen ankle boot in soft suede cowhide leather, with a comma elastic both sides of the ankle, with 2 shells sole.

Comme des Garçons, Coat, Skirt, Aw 2014

Comme des Garçons coat with a pinstriped gabardine base and over heavy knitted wool, polyester, nylon and acrylic applications, crew-neck, single-breasted, no buttons.

Comme des Garçons calf-length dress in wool jersey with knitted sewn applications on the front of the bodice with a “badly half-closed” cardigan effect, crew-neck, external seam at the waist.

Comme des Garçons stretch polyester leggings printed with a large and irregular weave effect, tight with feet.

Comme des Garçons long and thin shoe in cowhide leather, two small symmetric cuts with elastic band barely visible on the instep, rubber sole.

Daniela Gregis, Dress, Aw 2014

Daniela Gregis calf-length dress in double basket weaved wool in two different colours inside/outside, shawl neck with detachable padding, flounced hem, ¾ sleeve with small slit, welt side pockets, side ‘Gregis’ holes, reversible.

Comme des Garçons, Skirt, Sweater, Aw 2014

Comme des Garçons carded wool and nylon sweater, half-closed and staggered at the centre neck, asymmetric line with side drapery at the hem.

Comme des Garçons calf-length full skirt in heavy twisted knitted wool, acrylic and polyester, with waistband, two side welt pockets, inner hem with heavy cotton poplin lined band, external vertical side seams.

Comme des Garçons stretch polyester leggings printed with a large and irregular weave effect, tight with feet.

Comme des Garçons long and thin shoe in cowhide leather, two small symmetric cuts with elastic band barely visible on the instep, rubber sole.

Issey Miyake, Dress, Yohji Yamamoto, Trousers, Aw 2014

Issey Miyake large tunic in horizontal polyester pleating with tight waves, boat neck, short sleeve, side welt pocket, waves pattern.

Yohji Yamamoto herringbone heavy cotton trousers, button and zip closure, belt loops, 2 diagonal side pockets and 2 horizontal flap pockets on the back, side strap adjustable with button, man fit with low crutch.

Trippen ankle boot in soft suede cowhide leather, with a comma elastic both sides of the ankle, with 2 shells sole.

Daniela Gregis, Dress, Coat, Aw 2014

Daniela Gregis wide coat in doubled fabric: lambswool canvas and light wool canvas, wide shawl neck with detachable tubular, double big side patch pockets, closure with big safety pin, reversible.

Daniela Gregis calf-length dress with washed cashmere canvas bodice and flounced skirt in washed wool crêpe, boat neck, sleeve with slit, side welt pockets, raw cut hem, side ‘Gregis’ holes, wide fit.

Trippen ankle boot in soft suede cowhide leather, with a comma elastic both sides of the ankle, with 2 shells sole.

Fulvio Luparia, Scarf, Zucca, Cardigan, Aw 2014

Zucca long cardigan in heavy carded alpaca, nylon, wool and polyurethane, button-less, V neck, two welt side vertical pockets, amphora line.

Fulvio Luparia scarf, 100% camel, width 140 cm x lenght 200 cm.

Trippen ankle boot with heel in oiled and suede cowhide leather, no strings, with elastic geometric band at the ankle, high heel consisting of three blocks with different heights in anti-slip rubber.

Rick Owens, Leather jacket, Aw 2014

Rick Owens biker blouson in leather with an inner cashmere flannel panel coming out from below, high neck, side zip closure, two vertical zip pocket and a diagonal small pocket on the breast with zip, slim fit, sleeve with knitted insert.

Forme d’Expression tight stretch leggings-like trousers in heavy viscose, polyamide and elastan jersey, elastic at the belt.

Trippen ankle boot in chamois and oiled cowhide leather with a vintage effect, triangular seams on the ankle, vertical zip closure on the back, high heel with three non-slip rubber blocks with different heights.





 



 

Read More

Yohji, Yamamoto, FW 2014, Backstage

Celtic harsh resonances support the presentation of a simply great Yohji Yamamoto’s Autumn/Winter collection, in an alternation of folk melodies suggesting the thematic references chosen for the coming season. Resolute in going into all the possible connections between the sartorial work and the artistic dimension, the great Japanese master embraces a narrative bond with the artist Yasuto Sasada, where form and colour converge in the same figurative imagery.

Yohji, Yamamoto, FW2014, Backstage

Yohji, Yamamoto, FW 2014, Backstage

Yohji, Yamamoto, FW 2014, Backstage

In fact both, one through the study of the volumes and of the formal structures of the garments, the other with the chromatic ability of the drawing, offer an amazing representation of that syncretism, typical of the Japanese culture, between traditional and contemporary elements. Printings of archaic mythological figures, in metamorphosis with ultracontemporary pop and manga references, overlap themselves with the plentiful dimensions of the outerwear.

Yohji, Yamamoto, FW 2014, Backstage

Yohji, Yamamoto, FW 2014, Backstage

Yohji, Yamamoto, Fw 2014, Backstage

Shapes evocating ancient social roles, fully-developed and made up-to-date with absolutely more modern times, thanks to an efficient balance between the fabric selection, from the wool to the cotton canvas, and the cutting-edge movement of the forms in the ever-present Yohji’s black.

Yohji, Yamamoto, FW2014, Backstage

Yohji, Yamamoto, FW2014, Backstage

Yohji, Yamamoto, FW 2014, Backstage

Yohji, Yamamoto, FW 2014, Backstage

If the urban streets show off replicants suffocated inside all the same skimpy padded coat, Yohji Yamamoto challenges the lazy and atavistic trend to homologation offering the possibility to distinguish the self inside garments conceived as first works, not only never seen before, but most of all heralding of thought, ideas and respect towards who would wear them.

Yohi, Yamamoto, FW 2014, Backstage

*All the pictures of the Backstage of Yohji Yamamoto A/W 2014-15 Fashion Show are by Elise Toïdé.


Yohji, Yamamoto, Yasuto, Sasada, FW2014

Yohji Yamamoto wide padded coat in heavy padded cotton, wide neck with hood, no buttons or zip closure, two vertical welt pockets.

Yohji Yamamoto classic twill trousers printed with artist Yasuto Sasada drawings, tight at the bottom, 2 front diagonal pockets and 2 welt pockets with small button on the back, zip and button closure, belt loops and inserted strap with buckle, lined.

Yohji, Yamamoto, Yasuto, Sasada, FW2014

Yohji Yamamoto wool gabardine coat with sewn padded scarf, crew-neck, high side zip, two horizontal pockets on the front, zip closure with double slider, wide line, lined.

Yohji Yamamoto classic twill trousers printed with artist Yasuto Sasada drawings, tight at the bottom, 2 front diagonal pockets and 2 welt pockets with small button on the back, zip and button closure, belt loops and inserted strap with buckle, lined.

Trippen black lace up shoes in vegetable-tanned calf leather treated with wax finish, wood wedge with para rubber sole.

Yohji, Yamamoto, Yasuto, Sasada, FW2014

Yohji Yamamoto jacket/shirt in printed twill with artist Yasuto Sasada drawings, high neck, double slider zip closure, raw cut outlines, upturned V side inserts in plain colour, under-sleeve with a long open band, 2 welt pockets.

Yohji Yamamoto man style trousers with low crutch in soft wool flannel, tight at the bottom, two diagonal pockets on the front, two flap pockets on the back, button and zip closure, belt loops.

Trippen black lace up shoes in vegetable-tanned calf leather treated with wax finish, wood wedge with para rubber sole.

Yohji, Yamamoto, Yasuto, Sasada, FW2014

Yohji Yamamoto wide coat in herringbone light twill in wool and polyamide, big padded neck, double slider zip closure, two welt side vertical pockets, but sleeve with opening and dropped panel, lined.

Yohji Yamamoto long dress in wool jersey and woollen cloth, slightly rolled up neck, two pockets with flaps on side panels, laid on top panels along the sleeves.

‘Classic Trippen’ ankle boot in bicolour cowhide leather, with strings and small hooks, removable cork insole, rubber sole.

Yohji, Yamamoto, Yasuto, Sasada, FW2014

Yohji Yamamoto cotton canvas long overcoat, single-breasted, hood, two symmetric vertical raw-cut stitchings on the front, two vertical pockets on the front, zip closure with double slider, metallic small unicorn and small bird of prey.

Yohji Yamamoto classic twill trousers printed with artist Yasuto Sasada drawings, tight at the bottom, 2 front diagonal pockets and 2 welt pockets with small button on the back, zip and button closure, belt loops and inserted strap with buckle, lined.

Trippen black lace up shoes in vegetable-tanned calf leather treated with wax finish, wood wedge with para rubber sole.

Yohji, Yamamoto, Yasudo, Sasada, FW2014

Yohji Yamamoto down pea coat in heavy cotton canvas, single-breasted, wide neck, 2 big patch pockets with 2 diagonal welt pockets laid upon them, longer on the back with upside down V central split, double slider zip closure.

Yohji Yamamoto long dress in wool jersey and woollen cloth, slightly rolled up neck, two pockets with flaps on side panels, laid on top panels along the sleeves.

Yohji, Yamamoto, Yasudo, Sasada, FW2014

Yohji Yamamoto short pea coat in cotton canvas and synthetic fur on the wide cushion neck and on the mittens, guru neck, double slider zip closure, 2 horizontal pockets with zip, padded collar badge, straight line, cotton lined.

Yohji Yamamoto long dress in wool jersey and woollen cloth, slightly rolled up neck, two pockets with flaps on side panels, laid on top panels along the sleeves.

Yohji, Yamamoto, Yasudo, Sasada, FW2014

Yohji Yamamoto jacket/pea coat in wool gabardine, doubled high neck, upside down V wool knitted side inserts, double slider zip closure. 2 side welt pockets, bat sleeve with opened under arms with dropped panel.

Yohji Yamamoto man shirt in cotton poplin with doubled trimmings folded near the neck.

Yohji Yamamoto man trousers with low crouch in soft wool and cotton tweed, tight at the bottom, two diagonal front pockets, two flap pockets on the back, closure with zip and buttons, belt loops.

Trippen high ankle boot in oiled suede cowhide leather with aged effect , double slider spiral zip around the ankle, staggered edging, removable cork insole, anti-slip rubber sole.

Yohji, Yamamoto, Yasudo, Sasada, FW2014

Yohji Yamamoto long dress in wool jersey and woollen cloth, slightly rolled up neck, two pockets with flaps on side panels, laid on top panels along the sleeves.

‘Classic Trippen’ ankle boot in bicolour cowhide leather, with strings and small hooks, removable cork insole, rubber sole.

 


 







 


Read More