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Paamboli, the name of a very simple Spanish dish consisting of bread and tomato, becomes the title of a summer collection which the Italian Elle editor-in-chief pointed out at the beginning of the season as a 2014 summer passe-partout. Who are we talking about? Daniela Gregis, of course!

Daniela Gregis, Spring/Summer 2014, White, DressDaniela Gregis, Spring/Summer 2014, White, Jacket, Trousers

The basic ingredients of the Mediterranean cuisine become to the Italian designer the best synthesis of a project which choose the brightness of the red colour as a telling of the most light natural textile versions. The linen, the cotton and the silk lead the shade through different levels of movement and expression. The chromatic note assumes on the silk the airy wideness of the twilight sea breeze, while on the linen, always washed and creased, the harshness of the summer heat has been mitigated by the coolest of the fibres and drawn with the naïve signs of a bad managed paint brush on the weft of the basketweave fabric. Again, the red insists on the cotton seersucker in tiny textures, sometimes interrupted by zebra stripes which accompany its dominance or, more discretely, brighten up the joyful floral bouquet of the Londoner liberty.

Daniela Gregis, Spring/Summer 2014, Red, Dress, LinenDaniela Gregis, Spring/Summer 2014, Red, Dress, Silk

But the Gregis relaxed language can’t take itself to the extreme only on the crimson, to the initial Paamboli she commits only the concision appropriate to un unforgettable evocation: the summer!

With no hesitation it is colour, joy and fantasy…it is holiday, blue, dazzled whiteecrù or printed as a souvenir on carefree pink jackets.

Daniela, gregis, Spring/Summer 2014, Blue, Dress, TrippenDaniela Gregis, Spring/Summer 2014, Blue, Dress, Trippen

Daniela Gregis dress with top bodice in plain coloured cotton, skirt in cotton patchwork and garment washed linen, different dark tones, full shoulder with 3/4 sleeves and internal split, 2 pockets, eyelets at the sides for drapery hem, doubled over and reversible.

Flip-flop Trippen sandal with classic large sole, cowhide metallic leather strings drawing an open V on the instep, band around the ankle with velcro closure, rubber contour sole.

Stainless steel La Molla necklace.

Daniela Gregis, Spring/Summer 2014, Dress, Pink, Jacket, TrippenDaniela Gregis, Spring/Summer 2014, Dress, Pink, Jacket

Daniela Gregis longuette dress in linen and cotton, cotton singlet bodice with boat neckline, wide pleated skirt in linen, side pockets, raw cut two-colour seams.

Daniela Gregis slightly tapered jacket in cotton liberty with “travel” print, garment washed, single breasted, collar with small lapel, closure with one fabric cufflink button, 2 pockets sewn onto hemline, one central split on the back.

Trippen sandal with large sole, cowhide leather side edge and cotton string crossing all the instep, string closure around the ankle, rubber contour sole.

Daniela Gregis, Spring/Summer 2014, Trousers, Top, Jacket, Bag, TrippenDaniela Gregis, Spring/Summer 2014, Top, Bag, Jacket, Trousers, Trippen

Daniela Gregis linen singlet top with thin straps, flat and fitted at the top, 2 closed splits folding outwards on the sides, in linen.

Daniela Gregis wide leg psychedelic polygon painted cotton seersucker trousers, turn-up in the end, side pockets, coulisse closure with string-

Daniela Gregis short jacket in washed and chequered cotton, one breast with small lapel, closure with large safety pin, sleeves above wrist with internal split, straight cut, one pocket sewn onto breast and two side pockets along the hemline.

Daniela Gregis medium multicoloured bag in hand-worked cotton and hemp, flattened at the bottom basket shape, double scoubidou handle rum from side to side, it can be worn as a shoulder bag, rounded bottom, h 18 cm, w 17 cm, bottom diameter 36 cm.

Trippen sandal with large sole, cowhide leather side edge and cotton string crossing all the instep, string closure around the ankle, rubber contour sole.

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Marisa e Adriana, IVO MILAN

Have you ever thought about communicating through what you wear?

Silvia, a very fond client of IVO MILAN, talk about this in a text she sent us after choosing with great determination the dress that should represent her during the thesis defence.

Don’t be scared of the amount of words… If you are interested take your time to read it!

What is a dress?

 

It is something that we choose to place between us and the world every morning.

 

The dress is a boundary, in other words a line which separate two territories and put them together at the same time: it is the point where two regions meet, a place where contacts happen, where you learn new information, new concepts and new visions, a means of encounter between us and the world which is made of other people.

 

So the dress is not just a passing fancy but it is a powerful means of communication that we use daily and without a break, at the same level of the voice, the glances and the body movements. A means that represent us and on which tissue communicative meeting and clash take place going beyond the surface, building stories and dialogues on different visions of the world.

The dress becomes a means to tell, to receive, to declare, to listen.

In brief it is an extraordinary means of connection.


Vivienne Westwood outfit 2014

And for all these reasons a dress became part of my degree thesis: it was an irreplaceable fellow able to help me in telling my efforts, my joy and the discoveries of my studying.

 

My degree dress had the task of represent myself in the staging of the last act of my growing path (as a student but also as a person), and I entrusted it of the representation of my position towards what I asserted in the graduation thesis, dedicated to the internal companies communication, intended as a communicative exchange inside the company borders, translated then into communication towards the world through the production of documents, such as balances, messengers of a global organization identity. Exactly in the same way my dress became a witness of my humanity, of my ironic gaze towards the world and also of some specific meanings of my paper about the mutual relation and listening.

Considering how it came so naturally to me looking for a dress that I could feel truly mine (or rather that was able to tell me what I wanted to say to the others), I thought that the dress was a toy to me, an encounter invitation.

Issey Miyake Spring/Summer 2014

I regard the dress as a boundary where I invite the others to play, where any invention or good idea become a challenge and an invitation to connect, an open dialogue, a mutual discovery desire, even through a “fabric statement” that could seem weird or provocative towards the “common feeling”.

While I was realizing this I thought that some people could be not interested in playing and they could choose the “silence of the dress”, hiding themselves from the others, eluding the connection and wearing an accepted idea. Maybe these people try to be reassured because a “silent” (or mute) dress doesn’t open any dialogue, it limit itself to assert concepts and existences that carry out themselves following codified and generally accepted rules and so, by definition, not under discussion. That “sewn silence” turn the dress boundary into a frontier, or rather into a place with specific limits which represent a closure towards what is beyond it.


Comme des Garçons shoes Spring-Summer 2014

Pleats Please Spring/Summer 2014

I thought that maybe the comparison fear could bring to the silent dress.

Yohji Yamamoto Spring-Summer 2014

On the contrary, the day of the thesis defence I wanted a dress that would contribute to it, representing the meanings of the relation, intended in its extended sense, becoming the symbol itself of some of the most diverting concepts of my paper.

Issey Miyake outfit Spring/Summer 2014
This dress take me to the conquering of my degree that I was yearning for since a long time and I’m grateful to it because it testified me better than I could ever be able to do with my own words.

 

Silvia Parolin, ladysyla@gmail.com

 

 

 

 

 

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Junya Watanabe Spring/Summer 2014

Paris Fashion Week for Spring/Summer 2014 ended a few days ago and, though a lot has already been talked about in various online magazines, we can’t help but share our enthusiasm and our experience – as we have in times past – by offering a brief pictorial glimpse of what is coming to the store.

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Vivienne Westwood Spring/Summer 2014

Sari and Orlando Milan, among the people for the Vivienne Westwood fashion show…September, 28th, Rue du 4 September, Le Centorial

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Elle Venturini for Ivo Milan, Padova

As many of you know, IVO MILAN of Padua had the honour of hosting the first exhibition by the Friulian designer Lucia Venturini from 5 to 18 June this year.

Elle Venturini for Ivo Milan

It was an exciting experience, not just for the visionary beauty of the models on display, but also thanks to the energetic participation and the rich exchange of opinions in the lively gathering of old and newfound friends, all united by their curiosity for the event and an undeniable and deep-rooted passion for experimental clothing styles.

Here, a little late perhaps, we are pleased to feature a brief presentation of Elle Venturini‘s proposals as a small thank you to those who were kind enough to visit us and give those who could not enjoy it live a glimpse of what they missed.

Elle Venturini for Ivo Milan overview

Elle Venturini for Ivo Milan detail

Elle Venturini for Ivo Milan white detail

Elle Venturini for Ivo Milan creased detail

Elle Venturini for Ivo Milan black jacket

Elle Venturini for Ivo Milan micky mouse skirt

Elle Venturini for Ivo Milan t-shirt stripe

Elle Venturini for Ivo Milan black dress

Elle Venturini for Ivo Milan black dress detail

Elle Venturini for Ivo Milan skirts detail

Elle Venturini for Albero dei Fiori

Elle Venturini for Ivo Milan red skirt detail


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