Accessori | IVO MILAN - Radical Fashion Blog

The Daniela Gregis slow living: Spring/Summer 2015

By: Francesca

30-05-2015

Abbigliamento, Accessori, Art, Arte, Clothing, Design, Fashion, Various

In contrast with a world becoming more and more small, fast and homogeneous, Daniela Gregis insists in shaping what we could call a slow living, a reduced-speed and a man measured modus vivendi. The designer from Bergamo resists to the globalising forces with proposals that sponge on the most typical suggestions expressed by the nature season alternating. The attention for the Spring/Summer 2015 is focused on the beautiful cobalt blue sceneries of the summer skies, in their different chromatic and imagery intensity. It could be the compulsive trait of a nose up little boy, or a more regular composition idea, with methodic blue flowers and squares prints, to be welcomed on fabrics that lend themselves as pictorial canvas. Spots and patterns are placed with skill on a textile base, selected ad hoc from time to time: the linen, to emphasize shades and opacity, the cotton, to go back on the more clear effects and the silk, to give back the darker and more suggestive hours, dotted with gold meteors.

But it is possible to find the slow life outlined by Gregis also in the shapes, a very personal combination of slim and wide lines, stratifications, interpretative possibilities opened to reversible garments, with a front and a back, an inside and outside, often very different from each other. Widths, stripes, seersucker, polka-dots, London liberty, knitting, crochet and loom work, an artisanal world, a voice that stands out of the crowd, that resists with stubborn and unimaginable accuracy the hurry and the approximation.

Daniela Gregis waterproof silk faille overcoat with spots pattern, two patch pockets, ‘Gregis’ holes on the sides.

Daniela Gregis doubled overcoat in melange linen gauze and canvas, half-closed neck, irregular rounded quilting, ¾ sleeve, vertical welt pockets on the side, side ‘Gregis’ holes, wide line, wearable up and down, reversible, belt in the same fabric.

Daniela Gregis calf-length dress in linen canvas with a printed watercolour effect, straight line, boat neck, flared sleeve, belt in the same fabric, side ‘Gregis’ holes.

Classic’ Trippen ankle-length boot in soft elk leather with rounded tip, diagonal zip on the upper part, side zip closure, removable cork insole, rubber sole.

Daniela Gregis man jacket in washed linen canvas with pastel spots printing, slim fit, single-breasted with small lapels, two fabric cuff links closure, two welt pocket at the hem and one on the breast, cuff slit, two back slits.

Daniela Gregis dress with knitted cotton bodice and doubled skirt in embossed vicky cotton and striped silk, boat neck, ¾ sleeve, two side vertical welt pockets, ‘Gregis’ holes on the sides, reversible.

Trippen sabot in soft vegetable tanned leather with white wax glazing that wear away with use, double band, one rivet and holes adjustable, metal loop, see through wooden wedge heel.

Daniela Gregis man jacket in washed and creased cotton canvas with stripes, slim fit, single-breasted with small lapels, fabric cuff link closure, two patch pockets at the hem, one central back slit.

Daniela Gregis niki shirt in silk crêpe de chine, boat neck, winglet sleeve, ‘Gregis’ holes on the sides, reversible, wearable also as a foulard.

Daniela Gregis wide man style trousers in washed and creased oxford cotton, opened on the front with inner elastic ribbon, belt loops and belt in the same fabric, side pockets, turned up at the bottom.

Classic’ Trippen ankle-length boot in soft elk leather with rounded tip, diagonal zip on the upper part, side zip closure, removable cork insole, rubber sole.

Daniela Gregis man style jacket in washed and creased cotton poplin with stripes, slim fit, single-breasted with small lapels, fabric cuff link closure, two patch pockets at the hem, one central back slit.

Daniela Gregis niki shirt in silk crêpe de chine, boat neck, winglet sleeve, ‘Gregis’ holes on the sides, reversible, wearable also as a foulard.

Trippen flat shoe in flatted cowhide leather, essential line with inner edge higher on a side, two separated rubber shells sole.

Daniela Gregis calf-length dress with knitted linen bodice and curled skirt in linen gauze doubled on printed cotton canvas with a ‘cobalt brush strokes’ effect, boat neck, sleeveless, side welt pockets, side ‘Gregis’ holes.

Classic’ Trippen ankle-length boot in soft elk leather with rounded tip, diagonal zip on the upper part, side zip closure, removable cork insole, rubber sole.

Daniela Gregis short cardigan in hand-knitted linen with colour spots on the higher part, crew-neck, over-the-wrist sleeve, fabric cuff link closure.

Daniela Gregis dress with bodice in different kind of knitted cotton and curled heme in crêpe de chine and linen gauze, cotton etamine slip, ¾ sleeve with slit, two side vertical welt pockets, ‘Gregis’ holes on the sides, wearable front/back.

Daniela Gregis calf-length dress in linen gauze and silk crêpe de chine, cotton etamine slip, boat neck, raw cut edging, sleeveless, curled hem, two side vertical welt pockets, ‘Gregis, holes on the sides.

Trippen sabot in soft vegetable tanned leather with white wax glazing that wear away with use, double band, one rivet and holes adjustable, metal loop, see through wooden wedge heel.

Daniela Gregis calf-length dress with knitted linen bodice and embossed linen gauze bottom, boat neck, ¾ sleeve, side welt pockets, ‘Gregis’ holes, straight line.

Trippen flat shoe in flatted cowhide leather, essential line with inner edge higher on a side, two separated rubber shells sole.

Daniela Gregis multicolour short bucket handbag in heavy crocheted linen and cotton, double handles, circular bottom, h 23 cm x d 35 cm.

Trippen flat shoe in flatted cowhide leather, essential line with inner edge higher on a side, two separated rubber shells sole.

Daniela Gregis niki shirt in silk crêpe de chine, boat neck, winglet sleeve, ‘Gregis’ holes on the sides, reversible, wearable also as a foulard.

Daniela Gregis linen canvas sarong skirt, waistband closure and two small belt loops in light fabric thread, it should be curled on the front, hem with waves.

Daniela Gregis linen medium duffel bag with thin vertical stripes, one short sewn handle in the same fabric, rectangular bottom, l 27 cm x h 44 cm x d 38 cm.

Daniela Gregis linen big duffel bag with high horizontal stripes, one short sewn handle in the same fabric, rectangular bottom, high frayed edge, l 24 cm x h 57 cm x d 37 cm.

Daniela Gregis wide jumpsuit in washed cotton with graphic square and flowers printing, adjustable straps with knots, two patch side big pockets.

Daniela Gregis niki shirt in silk crêpe de chine, boat neck, winglet sleeve, ‘Gregis’ holes on the sides, reversible, wearable also as a foulard.

Zoccolo alto Trippen con fasce in pelle di vacchetta laminata e suola in legno rivestito da gomma anti-scivolo, allacciatura con fascia di pelle con velcro alla caviglia, altezza tacco 7,5 cm.

Daniela Gregis double face shirt: one side in linen gauze and the other in cotton poplin with graphic’ squares and flowers printing; open crew-neck, half sleeve with slit, two side vertical welt pockets, ‘Gregis’ holes on the sides, wide fit, reversible.

Daniela Gregis calf-length skirt in washed cotton with graphic squares and flowers printing, elastic band at the belt, curled at the waist, doubled with a vertical parallel pockets effect on the lining, reversible.

Daniela Gregis crocheted bucket bag in heavy multicolour cotton and linen, double handles, rectangular bottom, heart-shaped bottom in heavy multicolour crocheted fabric, l 43 cm x h 33 cm.

Daniela Gregis calf-length tulip line skirt with stitched panels in doubled printed linen canvas with ‘irregular polka-dots’ spots, fringed cut raw hem, a small welt side pocket, fabric-covered buttons at the belt to adjust the size.

Daniela Gregis crocheted bucket bag in heavy multicolour cotton and linen, hold by hand and very thin cord shoulder strap, half-closed circles bottom l 51 x h 24 cm x d 22 cm.

Back to…the shop!

By: Francesca

15-05-2015

Abbigliamento, Accessori, Architettura, Art, Arte, Clothing, Design, Fashion, Marchi, Moda, Various

It has been a while since we not coming back to the space/workshop that contains every our activity: online catalogue composition, shop windows, communications, presentations and everything in general gives life to the shop. In fact everything takes place inside the boutique in Via Santa Lucia, in Padua city centre. Here the collections selected during the buying campaign find their placement, they are interpreted and put together in combinations possible only in context where different brands live together, as happens in our space. For this reason it seems to us interesting sharing fresh seasonal glimpses that is not possible to imagine just watching the pictures on the website.

Talking about this…any suggestion to improve our job? The pictures with a darker background, lights and shades extending the garments movement, slow down the catalogue exploration or instead allow to understand with more likelihood the wearability of jackets, dresses, sweaters, etc?…

Details from the main shop window:

Y’s Yohji Yamamoto embroidered satin evening dress with small squares in polyester and rayon opened on the back, – strapless, inner bodice, central zip back closure, one high side buttons, two side slits.

Classic unisex ‘Final Home’ raincoat in nylon canvas, neck with zip and hood, vertical zips for the padded ‘cushions’ (it becomes a winter down jacket) on the front, on the back and along the arms, zip closure with double slide and press studs.

Trippen boot in cowhide leather and rubber sole, rounded tip, upper part with half-closed stripes on the front, zip closure on the ankle back.

Small shop windows:

Shopper Bao Bao Issey Miyake composta di placchette triangolari di pvc opaco replicate con calcoli origami su base in rete e tela di poliestere, doppi manici regolabili, una grande tasca interna con zip, l 34 cm x h 34 cm;

Trippen boot in cowhide leather and rubber sole, rounded tip, upper part with half-closed stripes on the front, zip closure on the ankle back.

Vertical shop window:

Vivienne Westwood Red Label two pieces dress in linen cotton canvas with diagonal checks pattern: ¾ sleeve top, curled rounded neck with drawstring, closure with fabric-covered small buttons; flared skirt, darts on the back at the hip, zip and button side closure.

Final Home polyester net blouson with zip, neck with hood, two vertical small pocket with zip, zip closure, zips along the arms and the shoulder transforming the blouson in a cape when open.

Calf-length Comme des Garçons quilted skirt in printed polyester with ‘red passion’ spots and cotton lining, curled at the waist, waist and elastic band at the belt, wide line.

Pleats Please Issey Miyake polyester vertical pleating dress doubled along the hips with triangular inlays in contrasting colour, sleeveless, V neck, flared line.

Pleats Please Issey Miyake polyester vertical pleating short jacket, straight neck, open on the front, no buttons, ¾ bat sleeve, wearable upside/down.

Trippen flat shoe in flatted cowhide leather, essential line with inner edge higher on a side, two separated rubber shells sole.

Comme des Garçions open-work waistcoat top in glossy polyurethane on the outside and polyester on the inside, crew-neck, zip side closure, straight fit, raw cut edging.

Comme des Garçons calf-length skirt with a cotton base with ‘red passion’ printed spots doubled with printed tulle with the same pattern, slightly curled, zip closure, wide line.

Yohji Yamamoto wide trousers jumpsuit in wool gabardine with rhinestone and silk braces with metallic stitched sequins, central zip closure on the front, 2 vertical welt pockets on the breast, 2 on the side and 2 on the back with flaps, side vertical buttons.

HaaT calf-length dress in high twist squared linen, boat-neck, half sleeve, panel to be buttoned on the side with buttons, back central zip, asymmetric.

Daniela Gregis ‘rectangle calf-length dress, one side in watercolour printed effect linen canvas and one in linen gauze, boat neck, flared sleeve stitched on the inside, side small buttons, same fabric belt, ‘Gregis’ hole, reversible front/back, it becomes a shawl.

Daniela Gregis waterproof silk faille overcoat with spots pattern, two patch pockets, ‘Gregis’ holes on the sides.

Daniela Gregis bags.

Reinhard Plank bonnet style hat in loom operated straw hat, narrow rolled up at the edges brim forming a rose on the side.

Mae belts.

Boboutic calf-length skirt in stocking stitched cotton, stainless-steel and viscose with in movement ring deformable threads, elastic band at the belt in contrasting colour, side welt pockets, slip.

Bao Bao Issey Miyake hold-everything purse made by PVC triangular plates repeated trough an origami calculation on a polyester base, zip closure, l 24 cm x h 12 cm.

Bao Bao Issey Miyake small rectangular shoulder bag made by platinum metallic PVC triangular plates repeated trough an origami calculation on a polyester base, small metallic detachable shoulder belt, smooth base with 2 metallic plates, l 13,5 cm x h 15,5 cm.

Photography by Sari Milan.

BaoBao-Issey Miyake: the high tech bag

By: Soili Milan

24-04-2015

Accessori, Design, Various

Born from a Pleats Please experiment, the Issey Miyake cult bag has been ‘baptized’ as an independent project with the name BaoBao only in the 2000, a symbolic tribute to the futuristic Guggheneim Museum of Bilbao, designed by the Canadian architecture Frank O. Gehry and opened in the 1997.

A not casual connection with Gehry work that highlights the ambitions and the awareness of having constructed an object with an high level of beauty and innovation.

Starting from a traditional principle such as the origami, and form a primary inlay, the Issey Miyake Maison develops a prototype with unlimited plastic potentials. The PVC plates joined together with new mathematic-textile techniques, shape a changeable accessory, that model itself according to its content, to the way how is wore, or even just how is put down. In a constant game of shapes and reflections, the colours are enhanced by the gleams that the PVC itself catches and reflects.

It is also treated at the same level of the best vehicle bodies, in fact the small triangular modulus undergoes to the same spectacular and indelible painting of the Lexus cars, excellence of the well-known Japanese brand Toyota, in a twinning thinkable only by the Miyake ideational farsightedness.

Every tiny particular of this object refers to the complexity hidden behind its designing. Moreover, thanks to the sophisticated proprietary technologies developed by the Maison, it’s rooted out the recurring problem of the production waste (here completely non-existent) and the final product becomes an unique ensemble, sheltered from badly realised clones and replicas.

The umpteenth genius strike of Issey Miyake that, through Bao Bao line, with its different models from bags to the more basic key holder, made again accessible and wearable the joy of colour and the limitless expressive possibilities of shapes.

SHOP THE EDITORIAL

Yohji Yamamoto Spring/Summer 2015

By: Francesca

07-04-2015

Abbigliamento, Accessori, Art, Arte, Clothing, Design, Fashion, Various

The unfailing exercises around the black colour of the great Japanese master compose a Spring/Summer 2015 definitely less austere and formal than the previous editions.

Slimmer volumes, alternated with more bare widenesses, underline an explicit femininity, almost surprising for the Yohji Yamamoto’s strict formal tradition, interpreter of an intellectual decency that is hardly able to identify itself in manifest gender simplification. The emerging of a new sensuality, inside complex and nonconformist stylistic habits, hardly could tell itself or could be identify through predictable codes, as bareness and tight lines.

Yohji respects characters and feminine shapes with the poetic intensity of the silk, operated with ancient and laborious Ikat dyeings or embellished by metallic sequins on rhinestones anything but regular.

The textile virtuosities meets themselves also in less striking expressions, with mimetic effects that hide the Prince of Wales and give it back creased and faded on dark black tones, but also shaded and pictorial floral printing or on the devoré from which field of flowers surface. If the more noble traditional heritage intervenes in the choosing of the fabrics, it’s always in the lines constituent ability that the Yohji’s aesthetic knowledge recognize and complete itself: a strategic balance of void and height, with asymmetries placed along the more critical points of the feminine silhouette, allow even to the less regular figure to find out itself suddenly of a completely unexpected charm and beauty!

Trippen short, tight-fitting boot with cubic, Japanese-type sole, in light cowhide.

Yohji Yamamoto long jumpsuit dress in plain crêpe de chine and ‘ikat’ printing on the back, central wide-skirted pleating on the back, central zip closure on the front, 2 vertical pockets on the breast, 2 on the back with flaps, side vertical buttons.

Trippen short, tight-fitting boot with cubic, Japanese-type sole, in light cowhide.

Yohji Yamamoto silk crêpe de chine jacket with part in different plain colours and ‘ikat Laos’ printing, single-breasted, V neck, two buttons closure, one small flap pocket at the hip, one side hip-length and the one calf-length.

Y’s Yohji Yamamoto creased cotton etamine and viscose trousers, two diagonal pockets on the front and one small pocket with button on the back, belt loops, small band with side external zip at the bottom, straight line.

Trippen flat men style shoes, featuring round toe, a lace-up fastening and a cut away detail on the sides.

Yohji Yamamoto double-breasted jacket in cotton and linen gauze, revers, two vertical welt pocket with inner net.

Yohji Yamamoto wide sahrouel trousers in devoré chiffon with stylized flowers in rayon and silk, side waist band at the belt, one vertical welt pocket.

Trippen short, tight-fitting boot with cubic, Japanese-type sole, in light cowhide.

Yohji Yamamoto short blouson in Prince of Wales creased and shaded in wool and polyester, shirt neck, button closure, shoulder badges, side small belts at the hem, 2 flap pockets and button on the breast, interlaced strings at the cuffs.

Yohji Yamamoto long and asymmetric tencel skirt with floral printing, fabric appendixes at the hips, 1 side horizontal pocket, side zip closure, adjustable band with button at the belt, longer on one side.

Trippen short, tight-fitting boot with cubic, Japanese-type sole, in light cowhide.

Yohji Yamamoto plain crêpe de chine single-breasted jacket on a side and the other with ‘ikat’ printing, revers, an half longer, Japanese frogs closure, back movement at the hem with stitched small slits.

Yohji Yamamoto calf-length skirt in tencel etamine with a side shibori treatment in relief with a ‘bouquet’ effect, side zip closure, soft line draped on the side.

Trippen short, tight-fitting boot with cubic, Japanese-type sole, in light cowhide.

Yohji Yamamoto single-breasted viscose etamine jacket, cut revers with contrasting colour thread, stitched collar, ‘zen’ threads on the shoulders, 2 flap and button pockets, 1 central slit.

Yohji Yamamoto decorative suspender bra in silk with ikat pattern printing.

Yohji Yamamoto cigarette trousers in linen and viscose etamine, zip and button closure, 2 diagonal pockets on the front, 2 patch pockets on the back, belt with adjustable buttons.