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Dazed, Junya, Watanabe, SS16

Junya Watanabe Spring/Summer 2016 runway details, Dazed & Confused dazeddigital.com.

(Dress and necklace coming soon.)

We always brought to light the Junya Watanabe’s peculiar interpretative ability in establishing, in the form of dress, the predominant stresses of our time. Post-modern, cyber-punk, tailor-philosopher of an age crossed by very fast transformations, where, from collection to collection, plastics and brand new materials, parts of abandoned industrial landscapes, occurred, to give shape to his personal metabolization and to his interpretation of the contemporaneity.

For the Spring/Summer 2016 the Rei Kawakubo-Comme des Garçons’ favourite, still produced by the Japanese Maison, welcomed his public in an emblematic space of pressing social themes, the Musée de l’Histoire de l’Immigration of Paris.

Junya, Watanabe, Musèe, de, l'Immigration, SS2016

Il Musée de l’Histoire de l’Immigration of Paris on the cover of Junya Watanabe S/S 2016 lookbook.

An important clue, a sensitive container of the present restrictive instincts of a continent in a state of alert for the imposing migratory phenomenon of which is witness. A suggestion and also an invitation to change the prospective through which we perceive the present, from an emergency point of view to an enrichment one, the one that only a flow of people and therefore of culture could offer, as the time has been able to testify.

And it’s the most problematic and hot continent to be celebrated and evoked, translated by the usual Watanabe’s modern glance. African and electro sonorities go along on the runway with the vivaciousness of the colours and of the decorations: very warm reds or clear, intense blues; kaftans and zebra-stripes dresses, tunics and shirts, garments able to face the highest temperatures, but also able to prepare us for more relaxed and evolved holidays.

Junya, Watanabe, SS2016, Full, Fashion Show

Constant asymmetries, elliptic constructions, experimental leopard spots on Japanese paper and complex fabric movements at the hem bring Africa and its chromatic, formal and symbolic qualities into the metropolitan and stateless circuits, where any traditional aesthetic contaminate and regenerate itself in peculiar, as independent, anthropological expressions.

Junya, Watanabe, Metalic, Rings, Dress, SS16

Junya Watanabe long kaftan dress in light polyester canvas with horizontal stripes ‘décor’ style and aluminium bangles, wide crew-neck, wide flared sleeve, big metallic bangles on the cuffs detachable with laces and loops.

Junya, Watanabe, SS 2016, Black, and, White, Dress

Junya Watanabe zebra-striped dress coming soon.

Junya Watanabe multi-layers rings necklace from the bigger to the smaller in shiny polyurethane and polyester imitation leather, it could be placed along the shoulders.

Photography from Junya Watanabe S/S 2016 lookbook.

Junya, Watanabe, SS 2016, Black, Dress

Junya Watanabe asymmetric robe manteau dress in polyester organza with tone on tone small spots processing in Japanese paper, wide half-closed shirt neck, ¾ flared sleeve, buttons closure till the bottom, spiral construction.

Junya Watanabe 5 pockets jeans-like leggings in light stretch linen and polyurethane canvas, over-the-ankle length, zip and button closure, belt loops.

Massimo Giussani man shoe in cowhide leather entirely hand-painted with two colours one shading on the other, with laces and tongue with inner elastic band, leather sole painted in the same colours of the upper part.

Junya, Watanabe, SS2016, White, Shirt

Junya Watanabe long and wide shirt in light ramié canvas, raglan shoulder, long sleeve, sack line on the back and straight on the front.

A punto B long trousers in cotton poplin, elastic band and light curling at the band, welt vertical side pockets.

Massimo Giussani man shoe in cowhide leather entirely hand-painted with two colours one shading on the other, with laces and tongue with inner elastic band, leather sole painted in the same colours of the upper part.

Junya, Watanabe, SS16, Red, Shirt

Junya Watanabe long and wide shirt in light ramié canvas, raglan shoulder, long sleeve, sack line on the back and straight on the front.

A punto B wide linen canvas trousers, elastic band and light curling at the belt, welt vertical side pockets.

Classic’ Trippen ankle-length boot in soft elk leather with rounded tip, diagonal zip on the upper part, side zip closure, removable cork insole, rubber sole.

Junya, Watanabe, SS16, Blue, Shirt, Dress

Junya, Watanabe, SS2016, Blue, Dress, Back

Junya Watanabe wide tunic in light ramié canvas, shirt neck with half-closed closure, flared line with stiff band, sack shape with central upside down V stitching and on the back at the bottom.

Junya Waatanabe 5 pockets jeans-like leggings in light stretch linen and polyurethane canvas, over-the-ankle length, zip and button closure, belt loops.

Massimo Giussani man shoe in cowhide leather entirely hand-painted with two colours one shading on the other, with laces and tongue with inner elastic band, leather sole painted in the same colours of the upper part.

Junya, Watanabe, SS2016, Blue, Cotton, Dress

Junya Watanabe wide tunic in light cotton canvas, crew-neck with back small button, flared line with stiff band, sack shape with side stitching towards the inside at the bottom.

Junya Waatanabe 5 pockets jeans-like leggings in light stretch linen and polyurethane canvas, over-the-ankle length, zip and button closure, belt loops.

Massimo Giussani man shoe in cowhide leather entirely hand-painted with two colours one shading on the other, with laces and tongue with inner elastic band, leather sole painted in the same colours of the upper part.

 


 

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Issey, Miyake, Purses, FW16

Vague, already clear and precise or no ideas at all?

 

An high-tech and hyper-radiant BaoBao? An hand-knitted or printed with rollers and airbrushes cashmere? Or hard-to-find and alchemic fragrances? Or, why not, unforgettable multi-layers scarves, warm and ornamental? But also less recognizable accessories for the everyday life or on the contrary guessed marvels to be kept on our side for the best moments…

 

Essentially, even this year we are arrived on time to the period ritual question: What am I giving to…? But it could be even more immediate and self-rewarding: What I wish to gift me…?

 

Believing that, using the words of an illustrious supporter of our online experience,

 

The aesthetic is an important part of the good being, of the gestures and even of the battles…

 

we suggest you a catalogue of ideas and possibilities that, as usual, could be wrapped in the dedicated and exclusive Sari’s packaging, Heart-Box

 

Daniela, Gregis, Jacket, Coat, FW16

Daniela Gregis wide coat in smooth cotton velvet, single-breasted, shirt neck with button, cuff-lenght sleeve, two flap pockets, buttons covered with fabric closure, slits on the cuffs.

Daniela Gregis double wool crêpe jacket with dark ‘storm’ printing, flat lapels with ‘staggered puzzle’ edges, two welt pockets, trapeze line.

Issey, Miyake, Jacket, Steam, Streatch, FW16

Issey Miyake wide jacket in narrow wave steam-stretch pleated polyester with a multicolored optical effect, double-breasted with lapels, two buttons closure, ¾ flared sleeve, asymmetric hem, voluminous on the back.

Un-Namable long and asymmetric skirt in a paper effect polyester fabric, with pleats in different directions, with press buttons.

Andrea, Cortella, Knitwear, AW16

Andrea Cortella asymmetric sweater in stitched Cashwool extra fine Merino wool with rounded neck draped on the shoulder, knitted band at the bottom, on the cuffs and on the neck, straight line.

Daniela Gregis wide trousers in heavy cotton canvas, belt loops with belt, turned-up at the hem, welt pockets on the side and on the back, open flap with elastic band.

Bao, Bao, Issey, Miyake, FW16

Bao Bao Issey Miyake small shoulder bag made of polish PVC and polyurethane plates, adjustable shoulder strap, zip closure, open internal pocket, lined, h 16 cm x l 23 cm.

Bao, Bao, Issey, Miyake, FW, 2015, Tokolom

Classic Bao Bao squared shopper bag made of polish PVC and polyurethane TOKOLO plates with a Rubix cube effect on polyester net, adjustable handles, zip internal pocket, h 34 cm x l 34.

Comme, des, Garçons, Perfumes

Comme, des, Garçons, Perfumes

Comme, des, Garçons, Perfumes


Comme des Garçons perfumes.


Stephen, Jones, Perfum

WISTERIA HYSTERIA Stephen Jones – eau de toilette.

Vivienne, Westwood, Mantero, Scarves

Vivienne Westwood Mantero big scarves in acrylic and wool big thread loom weft with squares pattern, fringes along the edges, l 200 cm x h 55 cm.

Mantero, Vivienne, Westwood, Scarf

Vivienne Westwood big scarf in very light new wool and silk gauze with Union Jack printing, small fringes along the edges, l 132 cm x h 100 cm.

Cauliflower, Issey, Miyake, Scarves, FW16

Issey Miyake Cauliflower wide scarves with zig zag edges in rayon and polyester with a fustian touch, extremities in contrasting colours, l 150 cm x h 40 cm.

Gudrun, Gudrun, Wool, Scarves, AW16

Gudrun & Gudrun large scarf with long fringes in hand-knitted alpaca, multicolour from grey to white at the extremities.

Gudrun-Gudrun-Wool-Hoods-FW16

Gudrun & Gudrun heavy hand-knitted alpaca neck with hood, stitched on the neck.

Reinhard, Plank, Hats, FW16

Reinhard Plank hats.

Gudrun-Gudrun-Sweater-Trippen-Shoe-FW16

Gudrun & Gudrun wide sweater in hand-knitted virgin wool, mohair and alpaca with a patchwork of different workings and colours on the neck, slightly flared.

Trippen ankle boot in soft cowhide leather with laces and stripes on a side, classic no-slip rubber sole with rounded toe.

Pleats, Please, Issey, Miyake, Padded, Jacket, T-shirt, FW16

Pleats Please Issey Miyake hip-length down padded jacket in shiny polyester, turtle-neck, snap buttons closure, two side welt pockets.

Pleats Please Issey Miyake t-shirt in vertical pleated polyester with faded roller printing, long bat sleeve, soft turtle-neck, large along the bodice and fitted at the bottom.

Issey, Miyake, Purses, FW16

Issey Miyake small bucket bag in bicolour stiff soften and shiny polyester pleating, origami shape with three-dimensional star effect, string closure, small leather shoulder strap.

Daniela, Gregis, Pink, Red, Coat

Daniela Gregis reversible wide pea coat in mohair wool on a side and in circles quilted nylon on the other, crew-neck with half-moon back flap, small slits on the cuffs, two welt pockets with inside holes where is possible insert a belt to close the pea coat.

Daniela, Gregis, Bag, FW16

Daniela Gregis wool crochet rectangular shopper bag with silk and cotton ribbons in different colour, two short double handles, h 28 cm x l 46 cm x d 30 cm approximately.

Anrealage, Light, Collection, FW16, Jacket

Anrealage, Light, Collection, FW16, Jacket, Detail

Anrealage long jacket in black and white polyester and rayon graffito on a velvet effect base, single-breasted with lapels, button closure, two patch pockets, flounces on the sides and at the bottom, welt small breast pocket.

Anrealage, Light, Collection, FW16, Detail

Anrealage short trench in wool cloth with light circle imprinted at the centre, double-breasted with flaps and lapels emerging from the fabric, gorget patches on the shoulders, back yoke, 2 vertical welt pockets, 2 welt inner pockets.

Heart, Box, Packaging

Heart, Box, packaging

Heart, Box, Packaging

Heart, Box, Packaging

Heart, Box, Packaging

Heart, Box, Packaging

Heart, Box, Packaging

Heart, Box, Packaging

Photography by Sari Milan.

 


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issey miyake fw 2016 multicolor blue dress 2

straight pleated calf-length dress with diagonal multicolour fantasy

 

Despite of the resolute summer pace, with an alternation -in Italy at least- of anticyclones, here in the shop are appearing the first Autumn arrivals.

Important returns: Issey Miyake, with a pre-collection that anticipates magisterial exercises of the Maison for the the winter season

 

issey miyake fw 2016 multicolor blue dress 1

 

issey miyake fw 2016 multicolor red t-shirt 3

straight pleated top with diagonal multicolour fant, long bat sleeve, V neck, rounded hem

issey miyake fw 2016 blue coat

pea coat with hexagonal three-dimensional pleating made with the steam stretch technique, wide lapel, 2 hooks closure with straps, 2 vertical welt pockets

wool and polyurethane crêpe stretch trousers with contrasting colour belt, 2 diagonal pockets, 2 welt pockets on the back, diagonal panel stitched on the front, 2 buttons and zip side closure, soft line

issey miyake fw 2016 blue apoc dress

calf-length a-poc bicolour tunic dress, ¾ sleeve, amphora line, boat neck

issey miyake fw 2016 black apoc t-shirt bag

t-shirt in a-poc bicolour fabric, cowl neck, soft line, wider at the hem, ¾ sleeve

stretch polyester and wool jeans-like trousers with small checks texture, 2 darts on the front, 2 side welt pockets, zip and button closure

small bucket bag in bicolour stiff soften and shiny polyester pleating, origami shape with three-dimensional star effect, string closure, small leather shoulder strap

 

Junya Watanabe with substantial anticipations of the poetic origami theme

 

junya watanabe fw 2016 sculpture jacket

waist-length sculpture cape with pyramid origami in polyester sateen, hook closure, oval gab on the back, lined

junya watanabe fw 2016 origami dress

calf-length striped dress in light wool jersey with three-dimensional origami half-moon bottom, crew-neck, shorts pants on the inside, back zip closure

junya watanabe fw 2016 origami skirt

classic man shirt in horizontal pleated cotton and polyester, rounded hem, cuff with button, central button closure, shirt neck

calf-length skirt in origami polyester taffetas, elastic band at the waist, reversible, tighter on a side at the hem, flared on the other side, reversible and wearable as a cape

junya watanabe fw 2016 origami dress violet

wool jersey dress with wide corolla neck in three-dimensional origami, soft fit, sleeve tight to the waist, wearable also as a t-shirt

junya watanabe fw 2016 origami scarf

wide corolla cape in wool jersey floral origami, zip closure

classic man shirt in horizontal pleated cotton and polyester, rounded hem, cuff with button, central button closure, shirt neck

junya watanabe fw 2016 jacket

cape jacket in polyester sateen, turtleneck, single-breasted, ¾ sleeve, flat on front, wide back with waves and darts, central buttons closure

calf-length skirt in origami polyester taffetas, elastic band at the waist, reversible, tighter on a side at the hem, flared on the other side, reversible and wearable as a cape

classic man shirt in horizontal pleated cotton and polyester, rounded hem, cuff with button, central button closure, shirt neck

 

Together with our ‘classic’ of course: Comme des Garçons lines, easily integrable one with the other

comme des garçons-comme des garçons fw 2016 top

reversible top, polyester lace on a side, on the other a sewn taffetas roses pattern, zip closure

man trousers with darts in creased high-tech polyester fabric, very wide leg with turn-up at the hem, zip and 2 buttons closure, 2 side welt pockets, 2 back welt pockets, 1 with button, belt loops

 

comme des garçons fw 2016 black jacket

man jacket in embroidered lace of washed cotton and polyester, single-breasted with lapels, joined at the bottom with an overlapping flap, button-less, 2 patch pockets, small back slit

 

very much of Daniela Gregis, with sweaters and dresses solemnly pointing to the next winter, alternating silks, wool and cashmere

 

daniela gregis fw 2016 black red robe-manteau

daniela gregis fw 2016 black and red robe-manteau

robe manteau in wool felt with cuts on orange crêpe de chine, flared sleeve, closure with the belt in the same fabric, semicircle cuts, reversible with fabric that could come out from the cuts

long linen and wool canvas dress with embossed squares, amphora line, V neck, wide over-the-wrist sleeve, belt in the same fabric, 2 side welt pockets, ‘Gregis, holes

daniela gregis fw 2016 reversible coat-1

daniela gregis fw 2016 reversible coat-2

light long coat in washed cashmere canvas doubled on squared and circle quilted nylon, crew-neck, ¾ sleeve, big semicircles hem, sash closure, 2 welt pockets, reversible

doubled dress in printed wool crêpe with transparency on the pattern underneath, boat neck with lunette placket on the back, amphora line, long sleeve, side belt, ‘Gregis’ holes

daniela gregis fw 2016 multicolor dress-5

double silk crêpe dress with dark ‘storm’ multicolour printing, amphora line, over-the-wrist sleeve, V neck, sash in the same fabric, 2 side welt pockets

 

But also the extraordinary knitwear of the secluded Fær Øer Island, with the handicraft of Gudrun & Gudrun, or a more local Made in Italy product, with the sober and functional selection of ApuntoB (pictures coming soon!).

Amazement, looking for something new, the first deliveries cheer up the desires, soothed by the hot weather, of see ourself inside garments up to our thoughts, still unseen and un-imagined!

 


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Born from a
Pleats Please experiment, the Issey Miyake cult bag has been ‘baptized’ as an independent project with the name BaoBao only in the 2000, a symbolic tribute to the futuristic Guggheneim Museum of Bilbao, designed by the Canadian architecture Frank O. Gehry and opened in the 1997.

A not casual connection with Gehry work that highlights the ambitions and the awareness of having constructed an object with an high level of beauty and innovation.

Starting from a traditional principle such as the origami, and form a primary inlay, the Issey Miyake Maison develops a prototype with unlimited plastic potentials. The PVC plates joined together with new mathematic-textile techniques, shape a changeable accessory, that model itself according to its content, to the way how is wore, or even just how is put down. In a constant game of shapes and reflections, the colours are enhanced by the gleams that the PVC itself catches and reflects.

It is also treated at the same level of the best vehicle bodies, in fact the small triangular modulus undergoes to the same spectacular and indelible painting of the Lexus cars, excellence of the well-known Japanese brand Toyota, in a twinning thinkable only by the Miyake ideational farsightedness.

Every tiny particular of this object refers to the complexity hidden behind its designing. Moreover, thanks to the sophisticated proprietary technologies developed by the Maison, it’s rooted out the recurring problem of the production waste (here completely non-existent) and the final product becomes an unique ensemble, sheltered from badly realised clones and replicas.

The umpteenth genius strike of Issey Miyake that, through Bao Bao line, with its different models from bags to the more basic key holder, made again accessible and wearable the joy of colour and the limitless expressive possibilities of shapes.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Issey Miyake Spring/Summer 2014

He just turned seventy-six years old and he spent forty of them doing what he loves the most, the designer. And not a fashion designer but “simply” a designer as Issey Miyake prefers to be defined. During his long career he actually designed everything, from bicycles to exhibition spaces, design means life to him and designing involves create the time we are living.

Issey Miyake Spring/Summer 2014

So dresses are for Miyake another tool to experience, to express himself, to have fun and bring joy. Sensibility, curiosity and an undoubted ingeniousness brought him to the identification of techniques and materials so innovative that till now nobody has tried to emulate or imitate them. At the beginning of the 90’s with the launch of the Pleats Please line, Miyake brought his although simplified creations to a wider public. Similar to this operation, a new experiment is launched ten years later: Cauliflower, where the fabric surface recalls the cauliflower texture. Here ingeniousness solves the hoary problem of the sizes. A piece of clothing includes three of them and the whole collection is one size.

Issey Miyake Spring/Summer 2014

In the Issey Miyake Spring-Summer 2014 collection, designed by young Yoshiyuki Miyamae, the airy fabrics and the pleats turn light into something wearable. From the brighter white to the sunset-like dark red, passing by the intense blue of the sky during day-time, strips of rainbow parade on the catwalk.

Issey Miyake Spring/Summer 2014

The fabric experimentation dare the force of gravity with the diagonally or even radially pleating, producing in the dress unexpected drapes. The polyester fabric, usually a little bit shiny to substitute silk, becomes dull and looks like cotton. Or the warp of a light plain knitted fabric becomes pleated cloth without interruption. In this atmosphere of continuous inventions the music as well is not left to chance.

Issey Miyake Sprin/Summer 2014

The Japanese musician Ei Wada transformed television screens into percussions, using the light and the electrostatic emitted to create the sound, composing an innovative soundtrack, absolutely in line with the spirit of this brand: there is no nostalgia or reference to the past, the look is always turned towards the future, to find solutions to new challenges and new technologies to realize them.

Ei Wada Issey Miyake

 

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