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2015 Yearly archive

Korean author and Italian production for Forme d’Expression, a brand that in few years discretely made its entry in the most interesting spaces of the vanguard fashion. The language of Koeun Park has a resolute, defined and recognizable identity, it’s able to interact and soften the most visionary and daring manifestations of the Japanese school.

Superimpositions, asymmetries and diagonal cuts, a certain attraction for the over volumes, sometimes unisex, together with a constant fabric research, often with a lived and rough aspect, outline the Forme spirit. Dry or very soft wools, wide sweater with cowl necks, outer stitching, damask canvas, not finished edgings, reversible garments, materials to be looked closer, undefined or melange colorations. Metropolitan, vaguely existentialist, the world of the Korean designer dialogues, with neatness and firm belief, with a cultured and reserved audience, removed from every concept and exhibitionism so dear to the fashion system.

Forme, d'Expression, FW 2015-16, Pea Coat

Forme d’Expression wide pea coat in damask wool cloth with checks, shawl neck, shorter on the back, points on the front, pointed bottom, closure with button on the neck or on the side.

Forme d’Expression wool jersey trousers with waistband and knee-length doubled leg, soft line, two side welt pockets and one patch pocket on the back.

Forme, D'Expression, Outfit, FW 2015-16

Forme d’Expression jacket in creased cotton, wool, linen and polyester canvas, single-breasted, guru neck, buttons closure, 2 horizontal welt pockets.

Forme d’Expression t-shirt in soft viscose jersey, crew-neck, slim fit, asymmetric at the bottom, long sleeve.

Forme d’Expression wide trousers in cotton, wool, linen and polyester canvas with low crutch, belt loops, zip and button closure, two patch pockets on the back.

Trippen ankle boot in soft suede cowhide leather slightly creased on the instep, side zip closure, new ‘spot’ sole with two rubber blocks and non-slip base made on iron stamp.

Forme, d'Expression, FW 2015-16, Pea Coat

Forme d’Expression wide reversible pea coat in doubled wool fabric with a bouclé effect, shawl neck that becomes an hood, two rounded patch pockets on the front, pin safe closure.

Forme, d'Expression, FW 2015-16, Outfit

Forme d’Expression wide and heavy hand-knitted wool and cashmere sweater, raglan shoulder, big ring neck, egg line, ribbed neck, cuff and bottom band.

Forme d’Expression wide trousers in cotton, wool, linen and polyester canvas with low crutch, belt loops, zip and button closure, two patch pockets on the back.

Trippen heavy-duty boot style ankle boot in cowhide leather, closure with strings and strap with outer side buckle, smooth leather on the heel and on the toe, the other parts in rough leather, removable cork insole, rubber sole.

Forme, d'Expression, Jacket, FW 2015-16

Forme d’Expression classic jacket in wool and ramie gabardine, doubled at the bottom with an overlapped jackets effect, single-breasted, button closure, half-closed neck without lapels with darts, 2 welt horizontal pockets on the front.

A punto B tight calf-length skirt in heavy cotton, two oblique pockets, darts on the front, central zip back closure.

Forme, d'Expression, FW 2015-16, Outfit

Forme d’Expression close-fitting t-shirt in doubled wool jersey, crew-neck, with external vertical central stitching on the front, along the sleeve and along the side.

Forme d’Expression trousers with drawstring in heavy wool jersey, low crutch, preformed leg, two side welt pockets, two patch pockets on the back.

Trippen heavy-duty boot style ankle boot in cowhide leather, closure with strings and strap with outer side buckle, smooth leather on the heel and on the toe, the other parts in rough leather, removable cork insole, rubber sole.

Forme, d'Expression, FW 2015, Padded, Jacket

Forme d’Expression pea coat in padded wool canvas, shorter on the back, wide shawl neck, points on the front, pointed hem, button closure on the neck or on the side, two side welt pockets, lined.

Forme, d'Expression, FW 2015-16, Knitwear

Forme d’Expression long and wide sweater in wool and dotted alpaca in contrasting colour with a yarn effect, wide crawl neck, long kimono sleeve, two side slits, slightly longer on the back.

A punto B tight calf-length skirt in heavy cotton, two oblique pockets, darts on the front, central zip back closure.

Forme, d'Expression, FW 2015-16, Outfit

Forme d’Expression pea coat in padded wool canvas, shorter on the back, wide shawl neck, points on the front, pointed hem, button closure on the neck or on the side, two side welt pockets, lined.

Forme d’Expression high closed neck warmer in doubled knitted soft wool and cashmere in two different colours inside-outside, reversible.

Forme d’Expression trousers with drawstring in heavy wool jersey, low crutch, preformed leg, two side welt pockets, two patch pockets on the back.

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Faroer, Island

From the remote Fær Øer Island, secluded archipelago contained between the Norwegian Sea and the north of the Atlantic Ocean, an happy example of how the world is restraining in its space-time coordinates.

Despite the limits resulting from a forced coast isolation, Gudrun & Gudrun is in fact able to address itself to the global market proposing a knitwear line in wool, alpaca and merinos or in a more rustic and ecological autochthonous wool, thick of suggestions, local influences and traditions.

Gudrun, Gudrun, AW15, Knitwear, Cardigan

Gudrun & Gudrun open jacket style cardigan in heavy knitted alpaca, dropped stitching working on the shoulder and along the sleeve.

Daniela Gregis wide trousers in heavy cotton canvas, belt loops with belt, turned-up at the hem, welt pockets on the side and on the back, open flap with elastic band.

Gudrun, Gudrun, Knitwear, Sweater, AW15

Gudrun & Gudrun hip-length heavy sweater in hand-knitted alpaca, slightly flared, cowl neck.

Daniela Gregis wide trousers in heavy cotton canvas, belt loops with belt, turned-up at the hem, welt pockets on the side and on the back, open flap with elastic band.

Gudrun, Gudrun, Knitwear, Big, Cardigan, AW 2015

Gudrun & Gudrun long and wide cardigan in hand-knitted alpaca, two patch pockets on the front, belt loops with belt, crew-neck.

Daniela Gregis wide trousers in heavy cotton canvas, belt loops with belt, turned-up at the hem, welt pockets on the side and on the back, open flap with elastic band.

But the surprise and the news brought by this young Danish brand are in the ability of interrupt the monotonous folklore language with more contemporary shapes, completely consistent with more advanced and sophisticated urban proposals.

From the thick blanket of the yarn, an anything but an old-fashioned and folk femininity emerges, rather pleased of being wrapped in garment of certain thermal and aesthetic properties.

Gudrun, Gudrun, Knitwear, AW15, Sweater

Gudrun & Gudrun honeycomb stitched short and tight sweater, turtle-neck, medium weight.

Daniela Gregis wide trousers in heavy cotton canvas, belt loops with belt, turned-up at the hem, welt pockets on the side and on the back, open flap with elastic band.

Gudrun, Gudrun, Knitwear, Aw15, Sweater

Gudrun & Gudrun man style hip-length sweater in hand-knitted alpaca, straight line, boat neck.

Daniela Gregis wide trousers in heavy cotton canvas, belt loops with belt, turned-up at the hem, welt pockets on the side and on the back, open flap with elastic band.

Gudrun, Gudrun, Knitwear, AW15, Long, Sweater

Gudrun & Gudrun long and tight sweater in ‘ecowool’ ecological wool jersey, crew-neck, raglan shoulder, outer stitchings.

Gudrun, Gudrun, Knitwear, Aw 15, Hood

Gudrun & Gudrun heavy hand-knitted alpaca neck with hood, stitched on the neck.

Shu Moriyama wide and long coat in rayon acrylic and polyester canvas with a wool effect, egg line with an horizontal stitching with a pocket effect on a side, wide padded neck, press buttons, 2 horizontal welt pockets.

Gudrun, Gudrun, Knitwear, AW15, Sweater

Gudrun & Gudrun wide sweater in hand-knitted virgin wool, mohair and alpaca with a patchwork of different workings and colours on the neck, slightly flared.

Daniela Gregis wide trousers in heavy cotton canvas, belt loops with belt, turned-up at the hem, welt pockets on the side and on the back, open flap with elastic band.

Gudrun, Gudrun, Knitwear, Aw 15, Dress

Gudrun & Gudrun calf-length dress in large stitched mohair, boat neck, flared sleeve, seam at the belt, wide skirt.

Gudrun, Gudrun, Knitwear, AW15, Cardigan

Gudrun & Gudrun short and wide cardigan large stitched mohair and chenille on the neck, crew-neck, small buttons closure, chenille working on the neck.

Daniela Gregis wide trousers in heavy cotton canvas, belt loops with belt, turned-up at the hem, welt pockets on the side and on the back, open flap with elastic band.

Gudrun, Gudrun, Knitwear, Aw 15, Big, Cardigan

Gudrun & Gudrun long and wide cardigan in hand-knitted virgin wool and alpaca with a patchwork of different workings and colours on the neck, crew-neck with press button.

Daniela Gregis wide trousers in heavy cotton canvas, belt loops with belt, turned-up at the hem, welt pockets on the side and on the back, open flap with elastic band.

Gudrun, Gudrun, Knitwear, Aw 15, Scarf

Gudrun & Gudrun large scarf with long fringes in hand-knitted alpaca, multicolour from grey to white at the extremities.

Forme d’Expression classic jacket in wool and ramie gabardine, doubled at the bottom with an overlapped jackets effect, single-breasted, button closure, half-closed neck without lapels with darts, 2 welt horizontal pockets on the front.

Forme d’Expression t-shirt in soft viscose jersey, crew-neck, slim fit, asymmetric at the bottom, long sleeve.

Forme d’Expression trousers with drawstring in heavy wool jersey, low crutch, preformed leg, two side welt pockets, two patch pockets on the back.

Gudrun, Gudrun, AW15, Knitwear, Sweater

Gudrun & Gudrun turtle-neck wide sweater in hand-knitted virgin wool, mohair and alpaca, with a patchwork of different workings and colours on the neck, slightly flared.

Daniela Gregis wide trousers in heavy cotton canvas, belt loops with belt, turned-up at the hem, welt pockets on the side and on the back, open flap with elastic band.

 

 

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Junya, Watanabe, AW 2015-16, Dress

“Exploring dimensionality through clothing” has laically synthesized the spokesman of the Japanese designer in a pedantic announcement after the Autumn/Winter fashion show 2015-16 held at the Palais du Tokyo in Paris last 7th March.

Not new to astonishing textile exercises Junya Watanabe, Rei Kawakubo’s favorite and still produced by the Comme des Garçons maison, in fact made his debut enchanting the audience with poetic floral structure to wear.

Yet the developing of the origami theme assumes today a different character, in certain aspects less ethereal, more conceptual and nearer to the immaterial and complex dimension of the algorithmic logic, where recursive and homogeneous series determinate almost perfect extensions.

Junya Watanabe, AW 2015-16, Dress

Junya, Watanabe, AW 2015-16, Dress

Soft wool jersey spheres, of which three-dimensionality has been realized trough the obsessive repetition of a basic geometric pattern, decorate necks, dresses bottoms and sweaters or just stand as independent architectures in the cases of capes and scarves.

Junya, Watanabe, AW 2015-16, Dress

Junya, Watanabe, AW 2015-16, Dress

In different experiments it’s the strictness of the pyramidal geometry, starting from an essential volumetric unit of measure, to be recomposed in polyester sateen sculptural jackets.

Junya, Waatanabe, AW 2015-16, Cape

Junya, Watanabe, AW 2015-16, Skirt

The calculation obsession is showed off by complex and abstruse mathematic functions tattooed in the few free skin glimpses of the models on the runway: hands, ankles reveal the impetuosity of an irrepressible numeric word.

Junya, Watanabe, AW 2015-16, Runway

Junya Watanabe Autumn/Winter 2015-16 Runway Details

Source: style.com http://www.style.com/fashion-shows/fall-2015-ready-to-wear/junya-watanabe

Nature and culture, order and chaos, co-existing dichotomy from the revelations of the most modern physics, are translated into harmonious decorative fabric abstractions.

The most cyber and post-modern of the Japanese designers seems going to the fractal complex theoretical visions, he’s experimenting a fabric expression to wear with its usual and peculiar visionary character, in certain case even in the routine of the everyday life, taking us with bewilderment and well in advance respect the others towards unimaginable future horizons.

Junya, Watanbe, AW 2015-16, T-Shirt, Dress

Junya Watanabe wool jersey dress with wide corolla neck in three-dimensional origami, soft fit, sleeve tight to the waist, wearable also as a t-shirt.

Junya, Watanabe, AW 2015-16, Cape

Junya Watanabe hip-length sculpture cape with pyramid origami in polyester sateen, hook closure, oval gab on the back, lined.

Junya, Watanabe, AW, 2015-16, Dress

Junya Watanabe calf-length striped dress in light wool jersey with three-dimensional origami half-moon bottom, crew-neck, shorts pants on the inside, back zip closure.

Junya, Watanabe, Shirt, Skirt, AW 2015-16

Junya Watanabe classic man shirt in horizontal pleated cotton and polyester, rounded hem, cuff with button, central button closure, shirt neck.

Junya Watanabe calf-length skirt in origami polyester taffetas, elastic band at the waist, reversible, tighter on a side at the hem, flared on the other side, reversible and wearable as a cape.

Junya Watanabe Oxford style shoe in oiled and suede cowhide leather with an aged effect, strings closure, 2 shells rubber sole.

Junya, Watanabe, AW 2015-16, Cardigan

Junya Watanabe hip-length cardigan in light wool jersey with shawl floral origami neck, long sleeve, central small buttons closure.

Junya, Watanabe, AW 2015-16, Jacket, Shirt, Skirt

Junya Watanabe cape jacket in polyester sateen, turtle-neck, single-breasted, ¾ sleeve, flat on front, wide back with waves and darts, central buttons closure.

Junya Watanabe classic man shirt in horizontal pleated cotton and polyester, rounded hem, cuff with button, central button closure, shirt neck.

Junya Watanabe calf-length skirt in origami polyester taffetas, elastic band at the waist, reversible, tighter on a side at the hem, flared on the other side, reversible and wearable as a cape.

Junya, Watanabe, AW 2015-16, Cape

Junya Watanabe wide corolla cape in wool jersey floral origami, zip closure.

Junya Watanabe classic man shirt in horizontal pleated cotton and polyester, rounded hem, cuff with button, central button closure, shirt neck.

 

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issey miyake fw 2016 multicolor blue dress 2

straight pleated calf-length dress with diagonal multicolour fantasy

 

Despite of the resolute summer pace, with an alternation -in Italy at least- of anticyclones, here in the shop are appearing the first Autumn arrivals.

Important returns: Issey Miyake, with a pre-collection that anticipates magisterial exercises of the Maison for the the winter season

 

issey miyake fw 2016 multicolor blue dress 1

 

issey miyake fw 2016 multicolor red t-shirt 3

straight pleated top with diagonal multicolour fant, long bat sleeve, V neck, rounded hem

issey miyake fw 2016 blue coat

pea coat with hexagonal three-dimensional pleating made with the steam stretch technique, wide lapel, 2 hooks closure with straps, 2 vertical welt pockets

wool and polyurethane crêpe stretch trousers with contrasting colour belt, 2 diagonal pockets, 2 welt pockets on the back, diagonal panel stitched on the front, 2 buttons and zip side closure, soft line

issey miyake fw 2016 blue apoc dress

calf-length a-poc bicolour tunic dress, ¾ sleeve, amphora line, boat neck

issey miyake fw 2016 black apoc t-shirt bag

t-shirt in a-poc bicolour fabric, cowl neck, soft line, wider at the hem, ¾ sleeve

stretch polyester and wool jeans-like trousers with small checks texture, 2 darts on the front, 2 side welt pockets, zip and button closure

small bucket bag in bicolour stiff soften and shiny polyester pleating, origami shape with three-dimensional star effect, string closure, small leather shoulder strap

 

Junya Watanabe with substantial anticipations of the poetic origami theme

 

junya watanabe fw 2016 sculpture jacket

waist-length sculpture cape with pyramid origami in polyester sateen, hook closure, oval gab on the back, lined

junya watanabe fw 2016 origami dress

calf-length striped dress in light wool jersey with three-dimensional origami half-moon bottom, crew-neck, shorts pants on the inside, back zip closure

junya watanabe fw 2016 origami skirt

classic man shirt in horizontal pleated cotton and polyester, rounded hem, cuff with button, central button closure, shirt neck

calf-length skirt in origami polyester taffetas, elastic band at the waist, reversible, tighter on a side at the hem, flared on the other side, reversible and wearable as a cape

junya watanabe fw 2016 origami dress violet

wool jersey dress with wide corolla neck in three-dimensional origami, soft fit, sleeve tight to the waist, wearable also as a t-shirt

junya watanabe fw 2016 origami scarf

wide corolla cape in wool jersey floral origami, zip closure

classic man shirt in horizontal pleated cotton and polyester, rounded hem, cuff with button, central button closure, shirt neck

junya watanabe fw 2016 jacket

cape jacket in polyester sateen, turtleneck, single-breasted, ¾ sleeve, flat on front, wide back with waves and darts, central buttons closure

calf-length skirt in origami polyester taffetas, elastic band at the waist, reversible, tighter on a side at the hem, flared on the other side, reversible and wearable as a cape

classic man shirt in horizontal pleated cotton and polyester, rounded hem, cuff with button, central button closure, shirt neck

 

Together with our ‘classic’ of course: Comme des Garçons lines, easily integrable one with the other

comme des garçons-comme des garçons fw 2016 top

reversible top, polyester lace on a side, on the other a sewn taffetas roses pattern, zip closure

man trousers with darts in creased high-tech polyester fabric, very wide leg with turn-up at the hem, zip and 2 buttons closure, 2 side welt pockets, 2 back welt pockets, 1 with button, belt loops

 

comme des garçons fw 2016 black jacket

man jacket in embroidered lace of washed cotton and polyester, single-breasted with lapels, joined at the bottom with an overlapping flap, button-less, 2 patch pockets, small back slit

 

very much of Daniela Gregis, with sweaters and dresses solemnly pointing to the next winter, alternating silks, wool and cashmere

 

daniela gregis fw 2016 black red robe-manteau

daniela gregis fw 2016 black and red robe-manteau

robe manteau in wool felt with cuts on orange crêpe de chine, flared sleeve, closure with the belt in the same fabric, semicircle cuts, reversible with fabric that could come out from the cuts

long linen and wool canvas dress with embossed squares, amphora line, V neck, wide over-the-wrist sleeve, belt in the same fabric, 2 side welt pockets, ‘Gregis, holes

daniela gregis fw 2016 reversible coat-1

daniela gregis fw 2016 reversible coat-2

light long coat in washed cashmere canvas doubled on squared and circle quilted nylon, crew-neck, ¾ sleeve, big semicircles hem, sash closure, 2 welt pockets, reversible

doubled dress in printed wool crêpe with transparency on the pattern underneath, boat neck with lunette placket on the back, amphora line, long sleeve, side belt, ‘Gregis’ holes

daniela gregis fw 2016 multicolor dress-5

double silk crêpe dress with dark ‘storm’ multicolour printing, amphora line, over-the-wrist sleeve, V neck, sash in the same fabric, 2 side welt pockets

 

But also the extraordinary knitwear of the secluded Fær Øer Island, with the handicraft of Gudrun & Gudrun, or a more local Made in Italy product, with the sober and functional selection of ApuntoB (pictures coming soon!).

Amazement, looking for something new, the first deliveries cheer up the desires, soothed by the hot weather, of see ourself inside garments up to our thoughts, still unseen and un-imagined!

 


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Vivienne, Westwood, Comme, Des, Garçons, SS15

 

Something new in the shop?

If some days before the summer begins someone has already started to ask for the new arrivals, maybe we need to stimulate a greater curiosity about what our collections have still to say.

With the help of our tutor Sari let’s try to welcome the hottest season with some of the many combinations experimented and discovered in the shop, alternative to the others already observed, maybe more suitable for the every day life, for sure not so predictable. A quick tour around the possibilities of putting together different designers, also from the past years, functional to complete with unexpected actuality the more contemporary garments.

Forme, D'Expression, Vivienne, Westwood, Bao, Bao, Issey, Miyake, Outfit

Vivienne, Westwood, Forme, D'Expression, Bao, Bao, Issey, Miyake, SS15

Vivienne Westwood Red Label cotton jacquard sweater with squares in different shades, draped ring collar, American shoulder, sleeveless.

Forme D’Expression 5 pockets trousers in washed and treated hemp with chromatic tone changes, horizontal parallel stitchings on the knees, button closure, belt loops, soft fit.

‘Classic BaoBao’ Issey Miyake squared shopping bag made of triangular plates of glossy-shining PVC repeated with origami calculations on a polyester net base, adjustable dovetailed handles, an inner pocket with zip, side 34 x 34 cm

Trippen flat shoe in flatted cowhide leather, essential line with inner edge higher on a side, two separated rubber shells sole.

 

 

Comme, Des, Garçons, Zucca, Outfit, SS15

Comme, Des, garçons. Zucca, SS15, Oufit

Comme des Garçons t-shirt in gold foil print polyester jersey with irregular folds and padded bands at the hem, straight shape, round neck, dropped shoulder.

Comme des Garçons knee-length divided skirt in high-tech treated polyester fabric, stitched brace, balloon line, two welt side vertical pockets, zip and button closure, cut raw frayed belt, horizontal stitching along the leg.

Zucca Oxford shoes in see-through plastic and heel protection in red leather, with strings, small perspiring holes on the front, rubber covered sole.

Vivienne, Westwood, Yohji, Yamamoto, Bao, Bao, issey, Miyake, SS15, Outfit

Vivienne, Westwood, Yohji, Yamamoto, Bao, Bao, Issey, Miyake, SS15, Outfit

Vivienne Westwood Gold Label oversize vest in cotton jersey with ‘Wallace Collection’ printing on the front and stripes and comics on the back, wide rounded neck and wide armhole, narrow shoulder straps, rounded hem.

Issey Miyake stretch organzine band top with contrast tone sheer tulle band, shape fit.

Yohji Yamamoto cigarette trousers in linen and viscose etamine, zip and button closure, 2 diagonal pockets on the front, 2 patch pockets on the back, belt with adjustable buttons.

Bao Bao issued Miyake big shoulder post-bag with opaque PVC triangular plates repeated trough an origami calculation on a net and polyester canvas base, adjustable shoulder belt, snap closure with inner hook, outer zip pocket, 2 inner small pockets, l 40 cm x h 30 cm.

Trippen flat shoe in vegetable-tanned calf leather, wax finish treated, fold detail on the vamp, two cups rubber outsole.

Comme, Des, Garçons, Junya, Watanabe, SS15, Outfit

Comme, Des, Garçons, Junya, Watanane, SS15, Outfit

Comme des Garçons niki top with torn stripes in polyester georgette on a cotton base, crew-neck, sleeveless, central zip closure on the back and side zip, irregular hem.

Comme des Garçons technical treated polyester divided skirt, stitched brace, side draping, asymmetric stitchings, cut raw trimmings at the belt, one side vertical welt pockets on the hip, zip closure on the side.

June Watanabe man style lace up shoes in white leather with small triangles pattern perforated, pointed toe, leather sole.

Vivienne, Westwood, Bao, Bao, Issey, Miyake, SS15, Outfit

Vivienne, Westwod, Bao, Bao, issey, Miyake, SS15

Vivienne Westwood Gold Label t-shirt made by two different fabric rectangles printed with a ‘mixed-up’ floral printing: one in cotton jersey, one in silk, boat neck, winglet sleeve, cut raw edgings, wearable front/back.

Vivienne Westwood Anglomania pure linen canvas trousers, curled at the belt with sash, buttons closure, two vertical welt pockets, medium width leg.

Bao Bao Issey Miyake rectangular shoulder bag with glossy PVC triangular plates repeated trough an origami calculation on a net and polyester canvas base, double adjustable handle, 3 inner small pockets, zip closure, smooth bottom with 4 metal plates, l 41 cm x h 28 cm.

Trippen thong sandal with elk soft leather strings interlaced till the ankle, side strap closure, rubber rounded sole in contrasting colour.

 

Photography by Sari Milan.


 

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