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Shu Moriyama coat

We have already had the opportunity to meet Shu Moriyama before, and those who visited our store in Padua in the last years could know his work, his textile and styling know-how originating from his experience at the unique ateliers of Yohji Yamamoto, whom he cooperated with before launching his own collection, under his own name.

Shu Moriyama and wife

As a generous participant in this transitioning moment in our working experience, Shu shows us his S/S 2021 suggestions.

 

With a typical Japanese approach, the horizon from which he gets his own inspiration is far away from the influences of western fashion, more focused on commercial inputs and linked to seasonal trends bringing to fast obsolescence. Shu’s view melts with trees, flowers and fruits, in an effort of abstraction which gives origin to the pleats of his comfortable crinkled fabrics, with small dots recalling petals, some times tone on tone, some others more showy.

 

Shu-Moriyama-inspiration

Shu Moriyama drawing

The wide spaces of Normandy, his land of adoption, are the background where his delicate clothes take form, designed with hidden elegance, more to put people at ease than to surprise in an impressive way. Poetry is not showed off, but it’s outlined with soft tones in fabric shades, in the embrace of shawl collars, in drop sleeves usually narrower at the bottom, in the chance of wearing many coats upside down, changing the final look.

 

Shu Moriyama tree inspiration pleats

Shu Moriyama pleats dress Spring Summer 2021

Dresses, jackets, coats, skirts, and trousers, are all designed with comfort and pragmatism in mind, thanks to the elasticity of a polyester that keeps the crinkled effect in time and warrants excellent fit performance, and, more simply, to very easy maintenance, since they can be washed in washing machine with no ironing.

Shu Moriyama IVO MILAN outfitShu Moriyama Spring Summer 2021 pleats jacket IVO MILAN

An alternative – less explicit and identifiable – to the more popular plated fabric of Issey Miyake, with a more reserved and calm accent, the one of Shu Moriyama, a visionary artisan to the utmost extremes for France and fashion.

 

Shu Moriyama Spring Summer 2021 pleats jacket IVO MILAN

Find the collection on our website!

 

Many thanks to Shu Moriyama for pictures and drawings and to Sari for the photograph shooting.

 

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After a long absence, a grand return. 

XII XII XLIX (12/12/49), birth date of the great Italian designer, marks the riappropriation of the brand after a long controversy.

Today’s collection is completely designed and carried out by Romeo Gigli himself. The designer was a striking discovery in the history of Italian fashion, that in the mid-Eighties was dominated by an androgynous female style, wrapped in the geometrical and sharp Armani‘s suits.

Gigli was able to astonish, by proposing an opposite model. Whereas the female manager was celebrated, in a latent competition with her partner, Gigli made an ancestral, ethereal woman flourish again, dressed in a vaguely Renaissance-style items. A powerful tribute to the woman’s gracefully sensual body and identity. By doing so, he made a revolution that, at least in the world of fashion, was able to sweep the misunderstood struggle of sexes away, that tried to standardize different personalities.

Even if it is not so vast and elaborate as Gigli’s past collections used to be, the Summer collection is nevertheless inspired by the same spirit. Soft jersey, knots, juxtapositions, bare shoulders, and slightly asymmetrical silk works, show colours that range between the warm density of ochre and orange and the metallic concentration of black, grey and blue, and are new examples of Romeo Gigli’s typical woman.

By looking at the different items of clothing of this collection, nostalgic memories are awaken of a period when Italian fashion was in the centre of the international fashion scene.

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