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Pants Pleats Please

The title chosen for the Pleats Please winter collection is a tribute to the work of the most prominent Mexican architect, Luis Barragàn.

Abstract shapes and lively multicoloured designs on bags, trousers, dresses and sweaters strongly recall that lush and surreal Mexico interpreted by the architecture of the master from Jalisco. The vast wall surfaces painted with bright colors, often crossed by unexpected cracks that offer glimpses of fountains of crystal clear water, are echoed by Issey Miyake’s most famous pleats.

The designer has always personally designed Pleats Please, a range which has always been the subject of his most joyous fantasies. Every season it is devolped by following a guiding theme. If, in the past, the most representative paintings of the Italian Renaissance embraced the entire silhouette in the form of dresses and t-shirts, now the inspiration is clearly Barragàn’s Mexico.

The deep pink of flourishing tropical bougainvillea, the yellow gold of the earth and the bright local houses, or the crisp blue of the cloudless sky and the sparkling blue of the clear waters, dissolve in the volumes of clothing and accessories in high-tech textiles.

Detail T-shirt Pleats Please

In fact, each garment is initially cut and sewn on flat fabric, it is only later, thanks to the extremely advanced techniques that have been patented by the well-known Japanese Maison, that it undergoes the pleating process. In addition to allowing extreme volumetric plasticity, this unique pleating remains intact over time. It is so practical that it can be machine washed and transported anywhere, as it always keeps its shape.

Detail Dress Pleats Please

A timeless, poetic product, Pleats Please gives its best when mixed with other suppliers, by completing them with surprising harmony.

Below, a sequence of outfits, from the Ivo Milan‘s shop, worn by Sari and Elena.

First outfit: ‘blue/grey’ hat Nafi; ‘musk green’ overcoat and ‘olive’ scarf Volga Volga; ‘blue pink’ t-shirt Cauliflower; ‘cornflower’ skirt Pleats Please; ‘black’ boot Trippen

Outfit Nafi-Volga Volga-Cauliflower-Pleats Please-Trippen

Hat Nafi-scarf and cardigan Volga Volga-t-shirt Cauliflower-skirt Pleats Please-boot Trippen

Second outfit: ‘orange’ padded hooded gilet Pleats Please; ‘musk green’ overcoat Volga Volga; ‘blue pink’ t-shirt Cauliflower; ‘cornflower’ skirt Pleats Please; ‘black’ boot Trippen

Outfit Pleats Please- Volga Volga-Cauliflower-Trippen

Third outfit: ‘beige’ hat Scha; ‘blue’ asymmetric sweater Oyuna; ‘beige’ pants Pleats Please; ‘black/white’ Marsèll “goccia”

Sweater Oyuna-pants Pleats Please-hat Scha-shoes Marsèll Goccia

Fourth outfit: ‘light grey’ sweater Cosmic Wonder; ‘beige’ pants Pleats Please; ‘black/white’ boot Marsèll “goccia”

Outfit Cosmic Wonder-Pleats Please-Marsèll goccia

Sweater Cosmic Wonder-pants Pleats Please-soes Marsèll Goccia

Fifth outfit: ‘black’ hat Nafi; ‘cornflower’ cardigan and ‘black/nut’ scarf Daniela Gregis; ‘beige’ pants Pleats Please; ‘black/white’ boot Marsèll “goccia”

Outfit Daniela Gregis-Nafi-Pleats Please-Marsèll Goccia

Sixth outfit: ‘burgundy’ hat Scha; ‘black’ blouson Sacai; ‘chestnut’ pants Pleats Please; ‘burgundy’ boot Trippen

Outfit Scha-Sacai-Pleats Please-Trippen

Hat Scha-Jacket Sacai-pants Pleats Please-shoes Trippen

Seventh outfit: ‘navy’ hat Scha; ‘indigo’ jacket Junya Watanabe; ‘green’ scarf Cauliflower; ‘multicolor’ pants Pleats Please; ‘blue’ boot Trippen

Outfit Scha-Junya Watanabe-Cauliflower-Trippen

From Paris showroom, Pleats Please-Issey Miyake F/W 2011-2012, order of Ivo Milan

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Sacai, spring-summer 2012 fashion show, Salle des Tirages – Hôtel d’Evreux, Place Vendôme


Orlando Milan of  IVO MILAN, Padua, with Rosy Biffi of  BIFFI and Carla Sozzani of  10 CORSO COMO, Milan

Photographers in action

Overview of the Esplanade des Invalides

Showroom Rick Owens, 7 bis, Place du Palais Bourbon


Trading Museum Comme des Garçons, 54 Rue du Faubourg St. Honoré

Boutique Issey Miyake, 11, Rue Royale

Photographs by Sari Milan

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The apostrophe in the name stands for the strong paternal feeling that Yohji Yamamoto has for the Y’s line. This line is only second to his first line of clothing, the one which bears his whole name, in the sense that is yet “another” line. The product makes use of recurring themes, like asymmetries and cross cuts and the quality fabrics draw upon the erudite Japanese textile culture.

With the Y’s line, Yohji translates his daring poetic projects into the everyday more freely than in the first line. In fact, these are reworked in a less austere, more usable and practical way.

Re-dimensioning the abstract stylistic forms that have made him famous, Yamamoto makes space for colour, so frequently avoided in favour of strong monochromatic themes like black, white and red, which enhance and metabolize more complex tailoring work. These are also present in Y’s, but simplified and with volumes sensibly contained, creating attractive silhouettes for a younger audience, yet always mature enough to incorporate refined exoticism.

Yamamoto never presents the Orient in a quaint or traditional style, but rather as a mental place where Western clothing styles are fused and transfigured through edge-to-edge cuts, textile weaves and the imbalances of Japanese aesthetics.

Frayed houndstooth,

dry outwear in soft boiled wool faded unevenly,

and then, crisp fabrics,

shirts printed with worn newspaper

and spartan denim, ennobled by the unusual shapes of jeans, make up a part of the varied and original selection for the current season.



 

 

 

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Overviews, new outfits and details that can be seen from a close view from the Padua boutique.

A real and evocative point of view, to make the acquaintance of the complex new collections of the autumn-winter 2011/2012 catalogue.

 

Daniela Gregis jacket, t-shirts Cauliflower, pants Pleats Please and boots Trippen

Bags Craig-New Zealand

T-shirts hung Cauliflower – Issey Miyake

Silhouette Cauliflower – Issey Miyake

Cauliflower and Pleats Please – Issey Miyake landscapes

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On September, 30, Friday, at rue du Faubourg St. Honoré, 54, the new Rei Kawakubo’s concept store has been opened. The following words, said by the members of the staff of the famous designer are interesting to read, in order to understand the idea that leads the Trading Museum:

Museums can be of many kinds and be founded for many purposes, such as recreation, study, education, tourism and even for civic pride.

Trade has probably existed in one form or another for about 150.000 years. The realm of trading is where mankind’s most significant meetings take place, bringing together all kinds of people, randomly and deliberatly.

Trading Museum Comme des Garçons is a space where the two above mentioned notions come together.

We hope to create a world where there is a reason and story behind all the goods we collect, show, display and or sell.

It will be a place where shopping is not the only objective. It will be a shop where “just looking” will be encouraged and merely being inspired can also be the aim.

A retail space beyond trends, outside fashion, where the barriers between trading and museum come tumbling down.

On this occasion, until October 29th, the Trading Museum present “Simulacrum and Hyperboleseries 2, the multimedia installation by Katerina Jebb, worldwide famous photographer, known for her co-operations with many personalities of international stardom and and for her particular interpretation of the so-called “society of the spectacle” and the mass aesthetics.

During the opening, the new perfume by Comme des Garçons was also launched.The essence, contained in a paradoxical waste bottle, represents a metaphoric invitation to reconsider the many objects that we don’t normally consider.

 

 

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