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Issey. Miyake, Packaging, AW 2014

Packaging by Maison Issey Miyake for the circular pleated jacket.

Issey, Miyake, Sculpture, Jacket, AW 2014

Issey Miyake ‘sculpture’ short and fitted at the waist jacket in triacetate and polyester circular pleated printed with regular small bars, shawl neck, small button closure.

Less than one month from the Christmas holidays, many cities have already mounted sumptuous decorations on trees, buildings and along the streets. Being a great occasion to set on stage the kitsch or more successful urban aesthetic experimentations, the voltaic excess of the moment lights up for sure the December anxiety-inducing question: What am I giving to…?

A strong anxiolytic against the stress caused by the search with no results, running and dipping into over-crowded and definitely unflattering places, could be starting a more comfortable exploration of the online catalogue…From the painted Very Busy cashmeres to the engineering Bao Bao Issey Miyake bag, or the Fulvio Luparia scarves and the inimitable Issey Miyake pleated spirals, the choice becomes a walk around the Radical Fashion panoramas.

Very, Busy, Painted, Cashmere, AW, 2014

Very Busy 1 thread on point 8 cashmere cardigan with abstract painted effect printing with side windows, reversible.

Vivienne Westwood Red Label ankle length trousers in pinstripe wool, close-fitting, belt with belt loops, zip and ‘Vivienne’ button closure, two diagonal side front pockets, two small welt pockets with triangular flap and small buttons on the back.

Very, Busy, Painted, Cashmere, AW 2014

Very Busy wide sweater in stocking stitch cashmere with tone on tone colour shades , wide crew-neck, reversible.

Comme des garçons Comme des Garçons large skirt in nylon sateen quilted on the inside, elastic band and coulisse on the belt.

Trippen high ankle boots in oiled suede cowhide leather, with laces and small hooks, removable inner cork sole, rubber sole.

Very, Busy, Painted, Cashmere, AW 2014

Very Busy 1 thread on point 8 cashmere sweater with abstract painted effect, high cowl neck, trapeze line, reversible.

Vivienne Westwood Red Label ankle length trousers in pinstripe wool, close-fitting, belt with belt loops, zip and ‘Vivienne’ button closure, two diagonal side front pockets, two small welt pockets with triangular flap and small buttons on the back.

Very, Busy, Painted, Cashmere, AW 2014

Very Busy wide sweater in stocking stitch cashmere with abstract printing with a painted effect, turtle soft neck, reversible.

Trippen high ankle boots in oiled suede cowhide leather, with laces and small hooks, removable inner cork sole, rubber sole.

Very, Busy, Painted, Cashmere, AW 2014

Very Busy 1 thread on point 8 cashmere sweater with abstract painted effect, high cowl neck, trapeze line, reversible.

Vivienne Westwood Red Label ankle length trousers in pinstripe wool, close-fitting, belt with belt loops, zip and ‘Vivienne’ button closure, two diagonal side front pockets, two small welt pockets with triangular flap and small buttons on the back.

Very, Busy, Painted, Cashmere, AW 2014

Very Busy wide cardigan in stocking stitch cashmere with big rectangle pattern in different colours with a painted effect, wide V neck, reversible.

Trippen high ankle boots in oiled suede cowhide leather, with laces and small hooks, removable inner cork sole, rubber sole.

Bao, Bao, Bag, Issey, Miyake, Coat, AW 2014

Bao Bao Issey Miyake small ball bicoloured bag made of three-dimensional triangular plates in metallic PVC repeated with origami calculations on a cotton base, cuff handle, zip closure, circumference 55 cm.

Issey Miyake long, reversible coat in wool and angora bicolour fleece, half-closed neck, three buttons closure, one wrist button, shorter on the front, raglan shoulder, two side diagonal patch pockets.

Bao Bao Issey Miyake medium-sized bag made of triangular plates in glossy polyurethane repeated with origami calculations, press button closure, 2 small pockets on the inside, one with a zip, h 30 cm x w 35 cm.

Yohji Yamamoto wide coat in herringbone light twill in wool and polyamide, big padded neck, double slider zip closure, two welt side vertical pockets, but sleeve with opening and dropped panel, lined.

Trippen heavy-duty boot style ankle boot in cowhide leather, closure with strings and strap with outer side buckle, smooth leather on the heel and on the toe, the other parts in rough leather, removable cork insole, rubber sole.

Bao Bao Issey Miyake small shoulder bag made of triangular plates in matt PVC repeated with origami calculations on a polyester net base, zip closure, an open inner pocket, adjustable shoulder strap, h 20 cm x w 30 cm.

Comme des Garçons Comme des Garçons wide pea-coat in nylon sateen quilted on the inside, buttons closure, hood, asymmetric line with side points, shorter on the front, two inner side patch pockets, open flap under the armpit.

Comme des Garçons dry hand calf-length skirt in heavy knitted wool, polyester, nylon and acrylic, sewn large pleating, elastic and drawstring at the waist.

Comme des Garçons long and thin shoe in cowhide leather, two small symmetric cuts with elastic band barely visible on the instep, rubber sole.

Bao Bao Issey Miyake medium-sized mail bag made of triangular plates in glossy PVC repeated with origami calculations, two dovetailed buttons closure, a small inner pocket, big outside pocket with zip, adjustable shoulder strap, h 30 cm x w 36 cm.

Comme des Garçons soft hand short jacket in wool and polyester on a raw cut white cotton base sticking out from the hem and from the sleeve, crew-neck, buttons closure.

Comme des Garçons dry hand calf-length skirt in heavy knitted wool, polyester, nylon and acrylic, sewn large pleating, elastic and drawstring at the waist.

Fulvio, Luparia, Scarf, Oyuna, Coat, AW 2014

Fulvio Luparia cashmere scarf, W 70 cm. x L 200 cm.

Oyuna plain knitted cashmere coat with padded bib in contrasting colour and irregular diamonds seams, high cowl neck, buttons closure, two vertical side pockets, reversible in/out and up/down.

Fulvio, Luparia, Scarf, Comme, des, Garçons, AW 2014

Fulvio Luparia cashmere scarf, W cm. 90 x L cm. 180.

Comme des Garçons long coat with a pinstriped gabardine base and over heavy knitted wool, polyester, nylon and acrylic applications, crew-neck, single-breasted, no buttons.

‘Classic Trippen’ ankle boot in bicolour cowhide leather, with strings and small hooks, removable cork insole, rubber sole.

Fulvio, Luparia, Scarf, Oyuna, Coat, AW 2014

Fulvio Luparia modal and cashmere scarf, W cm. 140 x L cm. 200.

Oyuna plain knitted cashmere coat with padded bib in contrasting colour and irregular diamonds seams, high cowl neck, buttons closure, two vertical side pockets, reversible in/out and up/down.

Trippen ankle boots in oiled and suede cowhide leather, vertical inner side zip closure, high hill consisting of three blocks with different heights in anti-slip.

Fulvio Luparia silk and cashmere scarf, W cm. 90 x L cm. 180.

Daniela Gregis hand knitted wide cardigan in mohair and silk, high shawl neck, safety pin closure, two small patch pockets at the hem.

Vivienne Westwood Red Label short skirt in pinstripe wool, with asymmetric panels, two side slits, two darts front and back, belt, zip and small button side closure, ‘Red Label’ lined.

‘Classic Trippen’ ankle boot in bicolour cowhide leather, with strings and small hooks, removable cork insole, rubber sole.

Issey Miyake big ring scarf in polyester with three-dimensional cylindrical bubbles pleating, reversible.

Issey Miyake long, reversible coat in wool and angora bicolour fleece, half-closed neck, three buttons closure, one wrist button, shorter on the front, raglan shoulder, two side diagonal patch pockets.

Issey Miyake calf-length dress in diagonal and vertical pleated polyester with large bands printing, sleeveless with asymmetric tips on the sleeve back, tighter basque at the hem, completely asymmetric, wearable shorter lifting up the basque.

Trippen ankle boot in soft suede cowhide leather, with a comma elastic both sides of the ankle, with 2 shells sole.

Issey Miyake short and large horizontal and circular pleated t-shirt in polyester with an alcantara effect, boat neck, flared sleeve.

Issey Miyake tight-fitting trousers in stretch wool canvas and polyurethane, belt loops, zip and button closure, two side diagonal front pockets and two welt back pockets with button, outside split at the hem.

Trippen ankle boot in soft suede cowhide leather, with a comma elastic both sides of the ankle, with 2 shells sole.

Issey Miyake tunic in heavy polyester pleating with a serpentine movement, boat neck, flared sleeve, side welt pockets, irregular segmental hem.

Issey Miyake tight-fitting trousers in stretch wool canvas and polyurethane, belt loops, zip and button closure, two side diagonal front pockets and two welt back pockets with button, outside split at the hem.

Trippen ankle boot in soft suede cowhide leather, with a comma elastic both sides of the ankle, with 2 shells sole.

Issey Miyake short t-shirt in heavy polyester pleating with serpentine movement, boat neck, flared sleeve, irregular segmental hem.

Issey Miyake tight-fitting trousers in stretch wool canvas and polyurethane, belt loops, zip and button closure, two side diagonal front pockets and two welt back pockets with button, outside split at the hem.

Trippen ankle boot in soft suede cowhide leather, with a comma elastic both sides of the ankle, with 2 shells sole.

Zilla small “bread bag” in creased laminated nappa leather in iridescent copper on the outside and matt black on the inside, hand hole, h 31 cm x w 19 cm.

Forme d’Expression long coat in big moss stitch knitted wool, with hood, press buttons closure, two patch pockets.

Trippen heavy-duty boot style ankle boot in cowhide leather, closure with strings and strap with outer side buckle, smooth leather on the heel and on the toe, the other parts in rough leather, removable cork insole, rubber sole.

…And the gift wrap? HEART-BOX and its workforces will be at work to wrap up with papers, twines, colours and glues not only your selection but the most noble gesture, the gift to someone you care!

HEART, BOX, packaging, IVO, MILAN

HEART, BOX, packaging, IVO, MILAN

HEART, BOX, packaging, IVO, MILAN

HEART, BOX, packaging, IVO, MILAN

HEART, BOX, pacjaging, IVO, MILAN

 

 

 

 

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Yohji, Yamamoto, FW 2014, Backstage

Celtic harsh resonances support the presentation of a simply great Yohji Yamamoto’s Autumn/Winter collection, in an alternation of folk melodies suggesting the thematic references chosen for the coming season. Resolute in going into all the possible connections between the sartorial work and the artistic dimension, the great Japanese master embraces a narrative bond with the artist Yasuto Sasada, where form and colour converge in the same figurative imagery.

Yohji, Yamamoto, FW2014, Backstage

Yohji, Yamamoto, FW 2014, Backstage

Yohji, Yamamoto, FW 2014, Backstage

In fact both, one through the study of the volumes and of the formal structures of the garments, the other with the chromatic ability of the drawing, offer an amazing representation of that syncretism, typical of the Japanese culture, between traditional and contemporary elements. Printings of archaic mythological figures, in metamorphosis with ultracontemporary pop and manga references, overlap themselves with the plentiful dimensions of the outerwear.

Yohji, Yamamoto, FW 2014, Backstage

Yohji, Yamamoto, FW 2014, Backstage

Yohji, Yamamoto, Fw 2014, Backstage

Shapes evocating ancient social roles, fully-developed and made up-to-date with absolutely more modern times, thanks to an efficient balance between the fabric selection, from the wool to the cotton canvas, and the cutting-edge movement of the forms in the ever-present Yohji’s black.

Yohji, Yamamoto, FW2014, Backstage

Yohji, Yamamoto, FW2014, Backstage

Yohji, Yamamoto, FW 2014, Backstage

Yohji, Yamamoto, FW 2014, Backstage

If the urban streets show off replicants suffocated inside all the same skimpy padded coat, Yohji Yamamoto challenges the lazy and atavistic trend to homologation offering the possibility to distinguish the self inside garments conceived as first works, not only never seen before, but most of all heralding of thought, ideas and respect towards who would wear them.

Yohi, Yamamoto, FW 2014, Backstage

*All the pictures of the Backstage of Yohji Yamamoto A/W 2014-15 Fashion Show are by Elise Toïdé.


Yohji, Yamamoto, Yasuto, Sasada, FW2014

Yohji Yamamoto wide padded coat in heavy padded cotton, wide neck with hood, no buttons or zip closure, two vertical welt pockets.

Yohji Yamamoto classic twill trousers printed with artist Yasuto Sasada drawings, tight at the bottom, 2 front diagonal pockets and 2 welt pockets with small button on the back, zip and button closure, belt loops and inserted strap with buckle, lined.

Yohji, Yamamoto, Yasuto, Sasada, FW2014

Yohji Yamamoto wool gabardine coat with sewn padded scarf, crew-neck, high side zip, two horizontal pockets on the front, zip closure with double slider, wide line, lined.

Yohji Yamamoto classic twill trousers printed with artist Yasuto Sasada drawings, tight at the bottom, 2 front diagonal pockets and 2 welt pockets with small button on the back, zip and button closure, belt loops and inserted strap with buckle, lined.

Trippen black lace up shoes in vegetable-tanned calf leather treated with wax finish, wood wedge with para rubber sole.

Yohji, Yamamoto, Yasuto, Sasada, FW2014

Yohji Yamamoto jacket/shirt in printed twill with artist Yasuto Sasada drawings, high neck, double slider zip closure, raw cut outlines, upturned V side inserts in plain colour, under-sleeve with a long open band, 2 welt pockets.

Yohji Yamamoto man style trousers with low crutch in soft wool flannel, tight at the bottom, two diagonal pockets on the front, two flap pockets on the back, button and zip closure, belt loops.

Trippen black lace up shoes in vegetable-tanned calf leather treated with wax finish, wood wedge with para rubber sole.

Yohji, Yamamoto, Yasuto, Sasada, FW2014

Yohji Yamamoto wide coat in herringbone light twill in wool and polyamide, big padded neck, double slider zip closure, two welt side vertical pockets, but sleeve with opening and dropped panel, lined.

Yohji Yamamoto long dress in wool jersey and woollen cloth, slightly rolled up neck, two pockets with flaps on side panels, laid on top panels along the sleeves.

‘Classic Trippen’ ankle boot in bicolour cowhide leather, with strings and small hooks, removable cork insole, rubber sole.

Yohji, Yamamoto, Yasuto, Sasada, FW2014

Yohji Yamamoto cotton canvas long overcoat, single-breasted, hood, two symmetric vertical raw-cut stitchings on the front, two vertical pockets on the front, zip closure with double slider, metallic small unicorn and small bird of prey.

Yohji Yamamoto classic twill trousers printed with artist Yasuto Sasada drawings, tight at the bottom, 2 front diagonal pockets and 2 welt pockets with small button on the back, zip and button closure, belt loops and inserted strap with buckle, lined.

Trippen black lace up shoes in vegetable-tanned calf leather treated with wax finish, wood wedge with para rubber sole.

Yohji, Yamamoto, Yasudo, Sasada, FW2014

Yohji Yamamoto down pea coat in heavy cotton canvas, single-breasted, wide neck, 2 big patch pockets with 2 diagonal welt pockets laid upon them, longer on the back with upside down V central split, double slider zip closure.

Yohji Yamamoto long dress in wool jersey and woollen cloth, slightly rolled up neck, two pockets with flaps on side panels, laid on top panels along the sleeves.

Yohji, Yamamoto, Yasudo, Sasada, FW2014

Yohji Yamamoto short pea coat in cotton canvas and synthetic fur on the wide cushion neck and on the mittens, guru neck, double slider zip closure, 2 horizontal pockets with zip, padded collar badge, straight line, cotton lined.

Yohji Yamamoto long dress in wool jersey and woollen cloth, slightly rolled up neck, two pockets with flaps on side panels, laid on top panels along the sleeves.

Yohji, Yamamoto, Yasudo, Sasada, FW2014

Yohji Yamamoto jacket/pea coat in wool gabardine, doubled high neck, upside down V wool knitted side inserts, double slider zip closure. 2 side welt pockets, bat sleeve with opened under arms with dropped panel.

Yohji Yamamoto man shirt in cotton poplin with doubled trimmings folded near the neck.

Yohji Yamamoto man trousers with low crouch in soft wool and cotton tweed, tight at the bottom, two diagonal front pockets, two flap pockets on the back, closure with zip and buttons, belt loops.

Trippen high ankle boot in oiled suede cowhide leather with aged effect , double slider spiral zip around the ankle, staggered edging, removable cork insole, anti-slip rubber sole.

Yohji, Yamamoto, Yasudo, Sasada, FW2014

Yohji Yamamoto long dress in wool jersey and woollen cloth, slightly rolled up neck, two pockets with flaps on side panels, laid on top panels along the sleeves.

‘Classic Trippen’ ankle boot in bicolour cowhide leather, with strings and small hooks, removable cork insole, rubber sole.

 


 







 


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Paamboli, the name of a very simple Spanish dish consisting of bread and tomato, becomes the title of a summer collection which the Italian Elle editor-in-chief pointed out at the beginning of the season as a 2014 summer passe-partout. Who are we talking about? Daniela Gregis, of course!

Daniela Gregis, Spring/Summer 2014, White, DressDaniela Gregis, Spring/Summer 2014, White, Jacket, Trousers

The basic ingredients of the Mediterranean cuisine become to the Italian designer the best synthesis of a project which choose the brightness of the red colour as a telling of the most light natural textile versions. The linen, the cotton and the silk lead the shade through different levels of movement and expression. The chromatic note assumes on the silk the airy wideness of the twilight sea breeze, while on the linen, always washed and creased, the harshness of the summer heat has been mitigated by the coolest of the fibres and drawn with the naïve signs of a bad managed paint brush on the weft of the basketweave fabric. Again, the red insists on the cotton seersucker in tiny textures, sometimes interrupted by zebra stripes which accompany its dominance or, more discretely, brighten up the joyful floral bouquet of the Londoner liberty.

Daniela Gregis, Spring/Summer 2014, Red, Dress, LinenDaniela Gregis, Spring/Summer 2014, Red, Dress, Silk

But the Gregis relaxed language can’t take itself to the extreme only on the crimson, to the initial Paamboli she commits only the concision appropriate to un unforgettable evocation: the summer!

With no hesitation it is colour, joy and fantasy…it is holiday, blue, dazzled whiteecrù or printed as a souvenir on carefree pink jackets.

Daniela, gregis, Spring/Summer 2014, Blue, Dress, TrippenDaniela Gregis, Spring/Summer 2014, Blue, Dress, Trippen

Daniela Gregis dress with top bodice in plain coloured cotton, skirt in cotton patchwork and garment washed linen, different dark tones, full shoulder with 3/4 sleeves and internal split, 2 pockets, eyelets at the sides for drapery hem, doubled over and reversible.

Flip-flop Trippen sandal with classic large sole, cowhide metallic leather strings drawing an open V on the instep, band around the ankle with velcro closure, rubber contour sole.

Stainless steel La Molla necklace.

Daniela Gregis, Spring/Summer 2014, Dress, Pink, Jacket, TrippenDaniela Gregis, Spring/Summer 2014, Dress, Pink, Jacket

Daniela Gregis longuette dress in linen and cotton, cotton singlet bodice with boat neckline, wide pleated skirt in linen, side pockets, raw cut two-colour seams.

Daniela Gregis slightly tapered jacket in cotton liberty with “travel” print, garment washed, single breasted, collar with small lapel, closure with one fabric cufflink button, 2 pockets sewn onto hemline, one central split on the back.

Trippen sandal with large sole, cowhide leather side edge and cotton string crossing all the instep, string closure around the ankle, rubber contour sole.

Daniela Gregis, Spring/Summer 2014, Trousers, Top, Jacket, Bag, TrippenDaniela Gregis, Spring/Summer 2014, Top, Bag, Jacket, Trousers, Trippen

Daniela Gregis linen singlet top with thin straps, flat and fitted at the top, 2 closed splits folding outwards on the sides, in linen.

Daniela Gregis wide leg psychedelic polygon painted cotton seersucker trousers, turn-up in the end, side pockets, coulisse closure with string-

Daniela Gregis short jacket in washed and chequered cotton, one breast with small lapel, closure with large safety pin, sleeves above wrist with internal split, straight cut, one pocket sewn onto breast and two side pockets along the hemline.

Daniela Gregis medium multicoloured bag in hand-worked cotton and hemp, flattened at the bottom basket shape, double scoubidou handle rum from side to side, it can be worn as a shoulder bag, rounded bottom, h 18 cm, w 17 cm, bottom diameter 36 cm.

Trippen sandal with large sole, cowhide leather side edge and cotton string crossing all the instep, string closure around the ankle, rubber contour sole.

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