www.ivomilan.it

   IVO MILAN – Radical Fashion Blog

Archive
Abbigliamento

Elle Venturini for Ivo Milan, Padova

As many of you know, IVO MILAN of Padua had the honour of hosting the first exhibition by the Friulian designer Lucia Venturini from 5 to 18 June this year.

Elle Venturini for Ivo Milan

It was an exciting experience, not just for the visionary beauty of the models on display, but also thanks to the energetic participation and the rich exchange of opinions in the lively gathering of old and newfound friends, all united by their curiosity for the event and an undeniable and deep-rooted passion for experimental clothing styles.

Here, a little late perhaps, we are pleased to feature a brief presentation of Elle Venturini‘s proposals as a small thank you to those who were kind enough to visit us and give those who could not enjoy it live a glimpse of what they missed.

Elle Venturini for Ivo Milan overview

Elle Venturini for Ivo Milan detail

Elle Venturini for Ivo Milan white detail

Elle Venturini for Ivo Milan creased detail

Elle Venturini for Ivo Milan black jacket

Elle Venturini for Ivo Milan micky mouse skirt

Elle Venturini for Ivo Milan t-shirt stripe

Elle Venturini for Ivo Milan black dress

Elle Venturini for Ivo Milan black dress detail

Elle Venturini for Ivo Milan skirts detail

Elle Venturini for Albero dei Fiori

Elle Venturini for Ivo Milan red skirt detail


Read More

By taking the opportunity to look beyond the offerings of the online catalogue we indeed find not so well-known combinations of clothing with unfamiliar names and limited shop distribution that have retained the same original freshness of ‘new arrivals‘. Need an example?

Katrien Van Hecke is a a young Belgian designer who works with silk (only from Italy), and eco-friendly dyes made exclusively from wild herbs and plants, such as mint, chamomile and elderberry, or with spices more commonly known for their culinary uses rather than in textiles, as cinnamon, turmeric and chili pepper.

Katrien Van Hecke blouson

And there is also Vlas Blomme, whose name comes from the Flemish for ‘flax flower‘ and pays tribute to the fine flax selection of Kortrijk, used for most of the garments of the Japanese designer Satoshi Ishii.

Vlas Blomme Spring/Summer 2013

Linen and silk cloth, natural dyes, comfortable and asymmetrical lines are the hallmarks of a brand particularly sensitive to the more relaxed pace of summer.

Vlas Blomme top

Here is a look at the proposals worn by our assistant, Sari -

Katrien Van Hecke dress, Rick Owens jacket, Spring/Summer 2012

Katrien Van Hecke dress in hand dyed silk crepe, print realized with airbrush and natural colours come from spices and herbs, round neck, center gathering folds, short sleeves, rear zip fastening, slightly flared shape, knee length

Rick Owens jacket in silk georgette double layer, slightly close fit, large stand up collar, concealed asymmetric front buttons fastening, side patch pockets, long sleeves with inner knit ribbed wool paneling

Trippen cross leather bands sandal, velcro fastening at the ankle, see thro

Katrien Van Hecke dress, Trippen tong sandal

Katrien Van Hecke tunic in hand dyed silk crepe, print realized with airbrush and natural colours come from spices and herbs, round neck, cap sleeves, straight shape, relaxed fit, knee length

Trippen cross leather bands sandal, velcro fastening at the ankle, see through wooden wedge heel

Vlas Blomme top and trousers Spring/Summer 2013

Vlas Blomme flower printed tunic in cotton and linen canvas, garment washed, flared shape, v neck, sleeveless, button fastening

Vlas Blomme wide cropped pants in light linen jersey, garment washed, drop crotch, elasticated waistband, cupro lining

Scha soft crocheted foldable variation of the Panama hat in toquilla straw

Trippen thong sandal in white calf leather with red edge and rubber sole, flat wooden sole

Vlas Blomme reversible vest, one side in shiny linen and silk and melange linen on reverse, garment washed, shawl collar, front button fastening, two front welt button pockets, small vent at sides, adjustable buckle and slit at back, upside down wearable

Vlas Blomme bi-fabric gather skirt, one part in melange linen, the other in shiny linen and silk, garment washed, elasticated waistband at linen part and gathered with fringed top detail at the silk part, unbalanced hem

Stefano Mortari fitted tank top with front in plain stitch and back in thin ribbed modal blend jersey, ribbed wide round neck, ribbed armholes, raw cut hem

 

Thanks to Coffeeklatch creative chitchat for the pictures on Katrien Van Hecke and to Tranoi for the pictures on Vlas Blomme!

Read More

The aesthetic dimension of the showcase…

We have spent many years arranging our shop window as the natural showcase for the collections that change from season to season inside the store. It is a sort of metaphysical space in which to display and show off the spectacular nature of certain apparel, and especially our own fanciful interpretation of these items. There is no way for us to be sure that the general feelings and ideas we have about the collections are conveyed in the best possible way, on the other hand, the designers themselves often leave out or simply refuse to express the possible connotations of their collections.

So that’s how it is, an entirely arbitrary composition that takes over the main window of the store each week, as well as the less imposing side windows and interior cases!

It is a general image that employs a precise aesthetic lesson provided by that singular and indefinable concept of beauty known as wabi-sabi; something that different forms of the so-called Japanese school expertly make use of in clothing. Greatly simplifying, we might say that wabi-sabi is the opposite of all that which in aesthetic terms we call ‘luxury’. Luxury is glitter, flashy and smacks of something new and artificial, it is easy to reproduce and make widely available; it has a simple and explicit message. The beauty of wabi-sabi remains open in every sense to the changing times, trends and events, making it impracticable, if not impossible, to replicate. In the words of Leonard Koren:

It is the beauty of things imperfect,

impermanent, and incomplete.

It is the beauty of things modest and humble.

It is the beauty of things unconventional.

Yohji Yamamoto, long train dress in organic cotton serge, flared shape, slit neck with pointed stand up top edge, front joke detail, sleeveless, horizontally cut at rear, tiered hem, row cut edges

Katrien Van Heckedress in hand dyed silk crepe, print realized with airbrush and natural colours come from spices and herbs, round neck, center gathering folds, short sleeves, rear zip fastening, slightly flared shape, knee length

Vlas Blomme, reversible jacket, one side in shiny linen and silk and melange linen on reverse, garment washed, notched collar, front button fastening, welt chest pocket, two front flap pockets, long sleeves with slit at the hem, small vent at back

Katrien Van Hecke, oversize bomber jacket in hand dye silk crepe, print realized with airbrush and natural colours come from spices and herbs, front zip fastening, collar and hem band in knit ribbed hemp blend, slanted welt pockets, silk lining

Rick Owens, long top in rayon and silk fine jersey, front draped at one side, straight shape, loose fit, rounded v neck, dropped shoulder, short sleeves, asymmetric front hem

Trippen, ballerina in vegetable-tanned calf leather, wax finish treated, fold detail on the vamp, two cups rubber outsole

Cauliflower-Issey Miyake, stretch honey comb pleated top in multicolor mosaic pattern printed, low round neck, dropped shoulder

Deux Dans Umi, asymmetric dress in polyester and viscose jersey, irregular curved cuts patterned with draped and embossed effect, asymmetric neck line, front slanted slit detail, sleeveless, row cut edges, shorter at the back

Vlas Blomme, melange linen with bar stripe back, wide fit, shawl collar, dropped shoulder, long tapered sleeves, no fastening, upside down wearable with longer effect

Bao Bao-Issey Miyake, tote bag in multicolor flexible glossy PVC triangles, black adjustable handle, interior zipped pocket; length: 34cm, height: 34cm, handle: 38cm

Photographs by Sari Milan

 

 

 

Read More

During an interview given shortly before the Spring/Summer 2013 fashion show, Yohji Yamamoto said that he was not in the least interested in producing recognizable clothing styles bearing his name every season, but rather that he wished to approach the creative process as a new challenge each and every time, as an opportunity to try new things and break free of repetitive ideas. The obvious risk of getting it wrong and not being understood by his audience, if seen for just what it is and why, would not be so important to him.

His statement seems to anticipate a spring and summer collection that steers away from the intensely poetic and familiar styles that Yohji has accustomed his fans to in order to make way for something fresh and unexpected.

When taken in the context of the current season’s fashions, the words of the great Japanese master seem to be more of a confession from an artist observing his own creative powers. Despite what he said his creations possess the easily-recognizable quality features that have always identified his work. Asymmetries, unfinished profiles, inventive volumes, cuts and stitching that are much closer to the meticulous slowness of high fashion than serial prêt-à-porter approximations, make up an ambitious and spectacular Spring/Summer collection.


The working of the fabric and the unique dyes make use of the most ancient and rare of  traditional Japanese methods that have remained unaltered in the few workshops able to pass on a cultural heritage that is in danger of being lost. Unheard of colours, such as indanthrene blue (made by hand then, dyed and faded using a slow bleeding process that imbues the colour with a unique metallic-lava effect), intersect lines with avant-garde designs.


The dragons on the printed silks pay explicit homage to China and offer a personal invitation to immediate economic and cultural reconciliation.


Even the Western expression “sexy“, mediated by a more sober and respectful intellectualism, joins in the design vocabulary of a modern Yohji Yamamoto, aware that cultures are getting closer, in a syncretism that is impossible to ignore. With the nimbleness of a Bolshoi dancer, the masterful artist moves deftly between tradition and modernity, East and West, displaying with all his expert skill, how a philosopher-craftsman designs clothes.

Pictures by Sari Milan

Read More

“[W]e find beauty not in the thing itself but in the patterns of shadows, the light and the darkness, that one thing against another creates”.

Junichiro TanizakiIn Praise of Shadows

It is no coincidence that at the last Salone del Mobile in Milan, these words of Tanizaki accompanied the lighting project In-Ei (Japanese for shadow, shading, nuance) designed by Issey Miyake and his Reality Lab and built by Artemide, which is now permanently housed in the Design section of the MoMa in New York.

Rooted in traditional Japanese aesthetics, the art of light and shadow has in fact always been at the centre of the technological and conceptual experimentation of Maison Issey Miyake. This shows respect for the heritage of the past that is comparable only to the same willingness to push the limits set by the material fabric.

Tania Braukamper of Fashionising.com, using an effective metaphor dedicated to the collection during the season, said:

Heritage is carried through, like a flame lit in the past that helps light the future: but it doesn’t dictate.


Designed by Yoshiyuki Miyamae, the creative director of the Maison, the Spring/Summer 2013 collection is a triumph of visual effects, lights, shadows and new three-dimensional micro-inlays. Geometric patterns, checks and diagonals serve as a link between creativity and mathematical analysis.

The pleats are enhanced, creating visual effects in which the perfection of the geometric formula applied to the fabric simulates the aesthetic imperfection (wabi-sabi) of deteriorating objects.


Shades of colour and small steps staggered in a grid effect transform the precision into fun, engaging the gaze in an amazement and wonder that only things never seen before can offer. Knits in continual metamorphosis as they react to the physical movement of the wearer or t-shirts and clothes made using extremely complicated techniques of casting and separating polyester, which can be seen from the moulded perimeter of contrasting colour.


Energetic hues celebrate a collection so exuberant and futuristic that it radiates energy and joy both to those who see and those who wear. Another generous lesson from Miyake!

Photos by  Sari Milan

Read More