Sari and Orlando Milan, among the people for the Vivienne Westwood fashion show…September, 28th, Rue du 4 September, Le Centorial
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“The infinity of tailoring” are the laconic words Rei Kawakubo used to close the Comme des Garçons Autumn/Winter 2013-2014 fashion show. The expression is well suited to being used as a pithy title for a collection characterized by a generous abundance of shapes, fabrics and also colours.
Following the thread that starts with menswear in its canonical variations of jackets, suits, trousers, Rei Kawakubo develops a creative plan whose results consistently tend to destabilize what we would expect to see. The choice of fabric and colours, and their extremely traditional usage, from pinstriped grey to dark flannel and Glen plaid, combine not only to intensify the abandonment of traditional industry dictates, but especially to become ductile tools that demonstrate how inventiveness has no limits, even in the changing room.
Thus a commonplace men’s jacket takes the form of three-dimensional poetry through a process of cutting and stitching that, through some incomprehensible tailoring skills, transform the model and enrich it with roses, ribbons or sculptural bows.
The original same-old model of pants seems to expand, as if the fabric scraps from the packaging have been put back together in new forms that rebel against their boring pre-ordained shape.
The Japanese designer’s libertarian provocations finally come to a climax with the prints traced from drawings by Dan Michiels, the psychedelic Hollywood artist.
This open collaboration demonstrates how fashion meets the art world, and is likely an invitation to pursue the follies of their own imagination and to bring them into reality.
After many years working in stores, it still happens that someone stops by with a bewildered expression and asks the same fateful question:
So, what’s in style this year?
A professional, objective response could be to give a broad overview of the season’s trends…like:
stylists say no to the crisis, calling on women to courageously assert their femininity without renouncing the pleasures of luxury, as can be seen in the opulent sequin-covered jackets or leather pants hanging here…
or, the opposite:
the crisis is forcing women to be more modest, serious, and attentive to small everyday things, so here’s a multi-use jacket and top, with a touch of femininity in the key details, like staggeringly high heels and strictly above-the-knee lengths.
But, “we are what we eat”; and the only possible response from a space which feeds on research and clothing that effectively satisfies an independent-minded aesthetic is the following:
You know, I don’t know! I could tell them about this winter’s flights of fantasy and inspirations by Rei Kawakubo-Comme des Garçons;
or about the cuts created by Yohji Yamamoto‘s sartorial musings;
or about Issey Miyake‘s textile experiments;
or if they prefer, I could help them discover the reversibility of every article of clothing by Daniela Gregis.
Otherwise, I could show them the extraordinary cashmere colours made possible by a recent innovation in knitting technology…
…you are right, I am getting off track, but I feel underprepared to describe the trends for autumn-winter 2013-2014, I’m so sorry…
The relentless heat we are currently experiencing is not slowing down our preparations for the upcoming fall season.
As the courier services continue to bring us deliveries, opening the boxes to free these early arrivals from their impeccable packaging, even in this scorching heat, produces the same heady euphoria as discovering hidden treasures.
The garments that have already arrived from some of the most well-known names, such as Issey Miyake, Comme des Garçons, Daniela Gregis, Junya Watanabe, Yohji Yamamoto, Zucca, Trippen, as well as the stunning debuts of Kristiina Karinen knitwear or Paradis outerwear, to name just a few, all form part of the magnificent orchestra of the upcoming Autumn/Winter collection. The diversity of these clothing styles come together in incredible harmony.
This harmonious effect is not fleeting either, the picture below shows just how these new arrivals can be combined with other store collections to produce extraordinary results. The regal beauty and complete uniqueness of this one-of-a-kind ensemble earn it a place among timeless and imaginative haute couture fashions.
We are constantly impressed with the sensations that come from unpacking extremely rare and innovative conceptual items with strong poetic meanings, created from a multiplicity of fabric processes, striking colour combinations and an extensive and often very complex variety of forms.
We are fortunate enough to be able to admire the collections when they are still intact before any item is sold, with the same awareness of those whose professions afford them the privilege of living close to art and the ability to examine rare pieces. It is truly exciting!
Most of the new arrivals are already available in our online catalogue. There is a lot more on its way and even more to be photographed.
Here below are some quick shots, by Sari, to share these moments of the changing season with you…
Sara…with Comme des Garçons-Comme des Garçons
…with Junya Watanabe
…with Comme des Garçons
…with Pleats Please-Issey Miyake
and, Amanda, with Daniela Gregis and Trippen
Orlando, the catalogue photographer
…Elena, Soili…in the mirror, Sari
But we could also say “young prospects!” to introduce that curious collaboration between the proactive enthusiasm of a group of twenty-year-olds, lovers of photography, music, art and the long IVO MILAN clothing sector experience.
The Mood Board, creators of the new-born blog of the same name, have involved shop staff in an experimental shooting with which to start trying their hands at a yet unexplored area for them: fashion
Easily deceptive, full of crossed wires and stereotyped references, the label does not really match the long, well-rooted IVO MILAN tradition in its search for clothes and shapes that are far from any obsolete seasonal trend; thus, inevitably, differences of opinion but, above all, that fatal question:
how do others see us?
Seeing how young our collaborators are, they probably won’t give us the most articulate, aware answer. But that is no reason to discard such a young point of view, open to comparison, to accepting criticism and advice and to defending its green, passionate skills.
So we’ll leave you with The Mood Board shots and views of our outfits and their personal, original interpretation.
Enrica Breda is wearing:
Scha, soft crocheted foldable variation of the Panama hat in toquilla straw
patch of cotton indian checks Y’s Yohji Yamamoto shirt with a shorter front side and a straight panel at the hem, side buttoned, pointed collar, button fastening, short sleeves with row cut hem, double pleat at the joke, rounded hem
Johnbull jeans in a distressed wash and bleach denim with tears, relaxed fit, boot leg, button detachable suspender, waistband with belt loops, button fastening, classic five pocket style, adjustable buckle tab at rear
wide pleated and contrast colour printed polyester Pleats Please-Issey Miyake rucksack, padded polyester net back and bottom, zip fastening, top handle, adjustable straps, interior zipped pocket
Trippen ballerina in vegetable-tanned calf leather, wax finish treated, fold detail on the vamp, two cups rubber outsole
Johnbull bi-fabric dress with “ARMY” graphic faded print, front and back top in cotton and polyester jersey, sides and back skirt in light rayon and polyester satin, wide round neck, sleeveless, waist gathered at rear, curved hem, longer at the back
Johnbull cardigan in knit linen jacquard camouflage design, purple dye in lower part of bust and sleeves, v neck, button fastening, relaxed fit
Bao Bao Issey Miyake make-up purse in multicolor flexible glossy PVC triangles, zip closure
limited edition Scha hat in vintage quality, very fine weave sisal double layers, soft and ultralight, small brim, pliable wire in the edge
Katrien Van Hecke oversize bomber jacket in hand dye silk crepe, print realized with airbrush and natural colours come from spices and herbs, front zip fastening, collar and hem band in knit ribbed hemp blend, slanted welt pockets, silk lining
viscose and linen Forme d’Expression jersey dress, bias cut, skirt with slanted draped detail at front and back, low round neck, sleeveless, one side shorter, curved hem
Jiois Ga is wearing:
Comme des Garçons-Comme des Garçons cotton jersey t-shirt with striped front and Hawaiian pattern printed on sleeves and back, garment washed, round neck, short sleeves
Comme des Garçons-Comme des Garçons skirt culottes in Hawaiian pattern printed rexcell, garment washed, elasticated with inner drawstring waistband, sides pocket, unbalanced hem, wearable like a skirt in the wide leg with shorter leg out
Marsèll “goccia” classic man style shoe, featuring a perforated leather and no lace open front
Bao Bao Issey Miyake make-up purse in multicolor flexible glossy PVC triangles, zip closure
Issey Miyake boxy top in grid pleated polyester with colored surface print, three dimensional effect, as it is worn or touch the pleated cubes open and reveal colour contrast, boat neck, dropped shoulder
Forme d’Expression wide pants in light washed grainy linen, barrel-shaped, extra drop crotch, waistband with tab and button, button concealed fastening, front sides double pleat, sides slit pocket, wide welt pockets at rear
Marsèll “goccia” treated kangaroo leather lace-up style shoes, screen printing letters at front, no lace, rubber heel
The Beatles-Comme des Garçons synthetic leather bucked bag with outer top embossed apple logo detail, asymmetric shape, two short top handles, side press stud fastening, two internal zipped pockets
From left:
Junya Watanabe dress in smooth polyester with mesh curved inserts pattern in contrast tone, wide funnel neck with zip fastening, front bodice with sides embossed detail, short kimono sleeves, fitted waist, slightly flared skirt, knee length
Trippen cross leather bands sandal, velcro fastening at the ankle, see through wooden wedge heel
Junya Watanabe dress made up of polyester double cloth top in two colour and pleated skirt with polyester mesh overlay, sheer bust, scoop neck, sleeveless, above knee length
Trippen cross leather bands sandal, velcro fastening at the ankle, see through wooden wedge heel
Photographs by: Furio Marco Magliani
Contacts: Tommaso Dalla Libera
Models: Enrica Breda e Jiois Ga
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