Ancora una volta Rey Kawakubo ci riesce a stupire trovando nuovo modo di decostruire gli indumenti più elementari e di trasformarli in opere d’arte.
Nel video seguente, un breve estratto della sfilata di Parigi in cui veniva presentata la nuova collezione Primavera-Estate 2011.
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Next spring the V&A will open the first UK solo exhibition celebrating the life and work of Yohji Yamamoto, one of the world’s most influential and enigmatic fashion designers. This installation-based retrospective, taking place 30 years after his Paris debut, will feature over 80 garments spanning Yamamoto’s career. The exhibition will explore the work of a designer who has challenged, provoked and inspired the fashion world.
An unconventional character who temporarily moved from the new continent to the Ville Lumière, Rick Owens has been able to win the favour of the American star system and of the most important fashion magazines, establishing a real trend in just a few years.
His really original silhouettes achieved such a large success, as to become the reference prototypes of a great number of emulators and enthusiasts.
This is something extraordinary, especially for a designer like him, who cannot be included within an already affirmed tendency, but who bravely laid himself open to a new and original approach.
His easily recognizable style is made up of an eccentric mixture of elements that can refer to certain hippy and punk youth subcultures, together with highly aristocratic features, given by the severe lengths or the complex closing of the collars.
Therefore, sleeves that are too long, frayed edges, jumpers and pullovers outline a shabby, almost slovenly type, whilst the complex balance of shapes, volumes and materials betrays an unexpected propensity towards taste and elegance in general. So, his collections are paradoxically open to opposite judgements. On one hand, they meet the expectations of those who appreciate garments for being clearly prestigious.
On the other hand, they are loved by people who in a dress, a jacket or a coat look for the feeling of finding something new and personal, independent from any ratification and completely outside the fashion system’s commands.
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