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Junya Watanabe spring-summer 2011

A long time collaborator with Rei Kawakubo for Comme des Garçons, Junya is with no doubts the most attentive interpreter of the cyber metropolitan spirit of current urban cultures.

He is now one of the biggest stars in international fashion, able to astound with his unfailing ability to transform materials that make up and describe the present industrial landscapes into suggestions that inspire his collections. Steel threads, brass bits and pieces, plexiglass plates and fabrics for industrial use are modified and translated into sculptures that can be worn, signs of a time that is decoded by a complex intellectual project, rather than by transient products of mass business.

The expressive ability of the Japanese designer, however, is surprising even when he makes variations on his own inspirational standards. More than recalling futuristic and hyper-technological distressing moods of a modern megalopolis, the spring collection suggests the relaxing holiday mood of indefinite seaside resorts.

Faceless masks march on parade in a timeless moment, in spaces that are far from the daily frenzy, whilst the volumes fit with slowed down and light-hearted life rhythms.

The bodies, that are shaped in the usual complex female silhouettes, float in extremely light georgette fabric. The items of clothing are compositions of jackets, cardigans or simple shirts with draped skirts, made of different patterns and fabrics, or fresh summers skirts.

The navy blue and the recurring cream colour of the backgrounds outline seaside, summer moods, and imagination is carried away within the heat, the promises and the well-being of a season that is anticipated and longed for so much.

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