The unfailing exercises around the black colour of the great Japanese master compose a Spring/Summer 2015 definitely less austere and formal than the previous editions.
Slimmer volumes, alternated with more bare widenesses, underline an explicit femininity, almost surprising for the Yohji Yamamoto’s strict formal tradition, interpreter of an intellectual decency that is hardly able to identify itself in manifest gender simplification. The emerging of a new sensuality, inside complex and nonconformist stylistic habits, hardly could tell itself or could be identify through predictable codes, as bareness and tight lines.
Yohji respects characters and feminine shapes with the poetic intensity of the silk, operated with ancient and laborious Ikat dyeings or embellished by metallic sequins on rhinestones anything but regular.
The textile virtuosities meets themselves also in less striking expressions, with mimetic effects that hide the Prince of Wales and give it back creased and faded on dark black tones, but also shaded and pictorial floral printing or on the devoré from which field of flowers surface. If the more noble traditional heritage intervenes in the choosing of the fabrics, it’s always in the lines constituent ability that the Yohji’s aesthetic knowledge recognize and complete itself: a strategic balance of void and height, with asymmetries placed along the more critical points of the feminine silhouette, allow even to the less regular figure to find out itself suddenly of a completely unexpected charm and beauty!
Yohji Yamamoto wide trousers jumpsuit in wool gabardine with rhinestone and silk braces with metallic stitched sequins, central zip closure on the front, 2 vertical welt pockets on the breast, 2 on the side and 2 on the back with flaps, side vertical buttons.
Trippen short, tight-fitting boot with cubic, Japanese-type sole, in light cowhide.
Yohji Yamamoto long jumpsuit dress in plain crêpe de chine and ‘ikat’ printing on the back, central wide-skirted pleating on the back, central zip closure on the front, 2 vertical pockets on the breast, 2 on the back with flaps, side vertical buttons.
Trippen short, tight-fitting boot with cubic, Japanese-type sole, in light cowhide.
Yohji Yamamoto silk crêpe de chine jacket with part in different plain colours and ‘ikat Laos’ printing, single-breasted, V neck, two buttons closure, one small flap pocket at the hip, one side hip-length and the one calf-length.
Y’s Yohji Yamamoto creased cotton etamine and viscose trousers, two diagonal pockets on the front and one small pocket with button on the back, belt loops, small band with side external zip at the bottom, straight line.
Trippen flat men style shoes, featuring round toe, a lace-up fastening and a cut away detail on the sides.
Yohji Yamamoto double-breasted jacket in cotton and linen gauze, revers, two vertical welt pocket with inner net.
Yohji Yamamoto wide sahrouel trousers in devoré chiffon with stylized flowers in rayon and silk, side waist band at the belt, one vertical welt pocket.
Trippen short, tight-fitting boot with cubic, Japanese-type sole, in light cowhide.
Yohji Yamamoto short blouson in Prince of Wales creased and shaded in wool and polyester, shirt neck, button closure, shoulder badges, side small belts at the hem, 2 flap pockets and button on the breast, interlaced strings at the cuffs.
Yohji Yamamoto long and asymmetric tencel skirt with floral printing, fabric appendixes at the hips, 1 side horizontal pocket, side zip closure, adjustable band with button at the belt, longer on one side.
Trippen short, tight-fitting boot with cubic, Japanese-type sole, in light cowhide.
Yohji Yamamoto plain crêpe de chine single-breasted jacket on a side and the other with ‘ikat’ printing, revers, an half longer, Japanese frogs closure, back movement at the hem with stitched small slits.
Yohji Yamamoto calf-length skirt in tencel etamine with a side shibori treatment in relief with a ‘bouquet’ effect, side zip closure, soft line draped on the side.
Trippen short, tight-fitting boot with cubic, Japanese-type sole, in light cowhide.
Yohji Yamamoto single-breasted viscose etamine jacket, cut revers with contrasting colour thread, stitched collar, ‘zen’ threads on the shoulders, 2 flap and button pockets, 1 central slit.
Yohji Yamamoto decorative suspender bra in silk with ikat pattern printing.
Yohji Yamamoto cigarette trousers in linen and viscose etamine, zip and button closure, 2 diagonal pockets on the front, 2 patch pockets on the back, belt with adjustable buttons.
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Starting from a traditional principle such as the origami, and form a primary inlay, the Issey Miyake Maison develops a prototype with unlimited plastic potentials. The PVC plates joined together with new mathematic-textile techniques, shape a changeable accessory, that model itself according to its content, to the way how is wore, or even just how is put down. In a constant game of shapes and reflections, the colours are enhanced by the gleams that the PVC itself catches and reflects.
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