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Paamboli, the name of a very simple Spanish dish consisting of bread and tomato, becomes the title of a summer collection which the Italian Elle editor-in-chief pointed out at the beginning of the season as a 2014 summer passe-partout. Who are we talking about? Daniela Gregis, of course!

Daniela Gregis, Spring/Summer 2014, White, DressDaniela Gregis, Spring/Summer 2014, White, Jacket, Trousers

The basic ingredients of the Mediterranean cuisine become to the Italian designer the best synthesis of a project which choose the brightness of the red colour as a telling of the most light natural textile versions. The linen, the cotton and the silk lead the shade through different levels of movement and expression. The chromatic note assumes on the silk the airy wideness of the twilight sea breeze, while on the linen, always washed and creased, the harshness of the summer heat has been mitigated by the coolest of the fibres and drawn with the naïve signs of a bad managed paint brush on the weft of the basketweave fabric. Again, the red insists on the cotton seersucker in tiny textures, sometimes interrupted by zebra stripes which accompany its dominance or, more discretely, brighten up the joyful floral bouquet of the Londoner liberty.

Daniela Gregis, Spring/Summer 2014, Red, Dress, LinenDaniela Gregis, Spring/Summer 2014, Red, Dress, Silk

But the Gregis relaxed language can’t take itself to the extreme only on the crimson, to the initial Paamboli she commits only the concision appropriate to un unforgettable evocation: the summer!

With no hesitation it is colour, joy and fantasy…it is holiday, blue, dazzled whiteecrù or printed as a souvenir on carefree pink jackets.

Daniela, gregis, Spring/Summer 2014, Blue, Dress, TrippenDaniela Gregis, Spring/Summer 2014, Blue, Dress, Trippen

Daniela Gregis dress with top bodice in plain coloured cotton, skirt in cotton patchwork and garment washed linen, different dark tones, full shoulder with 3/4 sleeves and internal split, 2 pockets, eyelets at the sides for drapery hem, doubled over and reversible.

Flip-flop Trippen sandal with classic large sole, cowhide metallic leather strings drawing an open V on the instep, band around the ankle with velcro closure, rubber contour sole.

Stainless steel La Molla necklace.

Daniela Gregis, Spring/Summer 2014, Dress, Pink, Jacket, TrippenDaniela Gregis, Spring/Summer 2014, Dress, Pink, Jacket

Daniela Gregis longuette dress in linen and cotton, cotton singlet bodice with boat neckline, wide pleated skirt in linen, side pockets, raw cut two-colour seams.

Daniela Gregis slightly tapered jacket in cotton liberty with “travel” print, garment washed, single breasted, collar with small lapel, closure with one fabric cufflink button, 2 pockets sewn onto hemline, one central split on the back.

Trippen sandal with large sole, cowhide leather side edge and cotton string crossing all the instep, string closure around the ankle, rubber contour sole.

Daniela Gregis, Spring/Summer 2014, Trousers, Top, Jacket, Bag, TrippenDaniela Gregis, Spring/Summer 2014, Top, Bag, Jacket, Trousers, Trippen

Daniela Gregis linen singlet top with thin straps, flat and fitted at the top, 2 closed splits folding outwards on the sides, in linen.

Daniela Gregis wide leg psychedelic polygon painted cotton seersucker trousers, turn-up in the end, side pockets, coulisse closure with string-

Daniela Gregis short jacket in washed and chequered cotton, one breast with small lapel, closure with large safety pin, sleeves above wrist with internal split, straight cut, one pocket sewn onto breast and two side pockets along the hemline.

Daniela Gregis medium multicoloured bag in hand-worked cotton and hemp, flattened at the bottom basket shape, double scoubidou handle rum from side to side, it can be worn as a shoulder bag, rounded bottom, h 18 cm, w 17 cm, bottom diameter 36 cm.

Trippen sandal with large sole, cowhide leather side edge and cotton string crossing all the instep, string closure around the ankle, rubber contour sole.

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In the middle of spring and with the catalogue almost complete, we can finally give life to some suggestions with the colours and the movements of the real life. Yes, because it is inside the most authentic world that we work and spend our time, inside very concrete boundaries, often shaped by necessity and objective urgencies, or more simply, quotidian. A warning, this is not a top model show but simple experiments tested on ourselves.

 

Also an occasion to introduce you our Francesca, young IVO MILAN new entry, a precious backing for our communications and the online store replies…

 

So we tried new matching, putting together different ideas, colours and fibres. In a new and interesting dialogue between them, the silhouettes of our aficionados, Yohji Yamamoto, Junya Watanabe, Rick Owens, Daniela Gregis, get in touch with the new experimentations of the Korean brand Forme d’Expression, expressive talent produced in Italy, and draw themselves alongside the eclectic British tailoring of Vivienne Westwood, the great new entry of this spring/summer with the Gold and the Red Label. The pictures here below can guide you and maybe inspire you in the discovery of the fabrics, the cuts, the volumes you will find in the shop in the next months. Enjoy it!

 

Forme d'expression, Rick Owens, Trippen, Spring/Summer 2014

Forme d'expression, Rick Owens, Trippen, Spring/Summer 2014

Forme d'expression, Rick Owens, Trippen, Spring/Summer 2014

Forme d’expression top shirt in chambray iridescent cotton gauze, sleeveless, wide and draped neck, draped around the waist, fitted at the waist line, wider and symmetric bottom.

Forme d’expression longuette skirt in linen with Pollock type “scribble” print, bell shape, longer on the sides, wallet closure emphasised with a button, side pockets.

Rick Owens wool etamine jacket with shawl jacket with draped silk lapels, single breasted, single button closure, slightly fitted at the waist, two small pockets on the front, two slits on the back, inside pockets, lined.

Trippen boot in cowhide leather and rubber sole, vamp with stripes, zip closure on the back of the ankle.

 

Vivienne Westwood Red Label, Trippen, Spring/Summer 2014

Vivienne Westwood Red Label, Trippen, Spring/Summer 2014

Vivienne Westwood Red Label, Trippen, Spring/Summer 2014

Vivienne Westwood Red Label, Trippen, Spring/Summer 2014

Vivienne Westwood – Red Label crêpe de chine heart print short shirt , short sleeves adjustable with a small button on the shoulder, thin line, hole on the front between the first and the second button, rounded bottom.

Vivienne Westwood – Red Label basketweaved linen and viscose high waist trousers, soft line with darts, equipped with brace/belt, with loops, button and zip closure, two side welt pockets, a small diagonal pocket with button on the back, roll up bottom. 

Trippen high clog with cowhide leather bands and enamelled wood sole covered with non-slip rubber, leather band with velcro closure, heel height 7,5 cm.

Junya Watanabe, La Molla, Spring/Summer 2014Junya Watanabe, La Molla, Spring/Summer 2014Junya Watanabe, La Molla, Spring/Summer 2014

Junya Watanabe, La Molla, Spring/Summer 2014

Junya Watanabe cotton jersey top, boat neck, sleeveless, close-fitting line, curled with a spiral movement.

Junya Watanabe leatherette long skirt with disassembled and re-sewn jeans application in printed “etno navaho” denim, flared and asymmetric line, fringed bottom.

La Molla necklace in stainless steel.

Daniela Gregis, Yohji Yamamoto, Rosa Mosa, Spring/Summer 2014

Daniela Gregis, Yohji Yamamoto, Rosa Mosa, Spring/Summer 2014

Daniela Gregis, Yohji Yamamoto, Rosa Mosa, Spring/Summer 2014

Daniela Gregis, Yohji Yamamoto, Rosa Mosa, Spring/Summer 2014

Daniela Gregis wide fit shirt in silk crepe de chine, boat neckline, elbow length sleeves with internal split, 2 internal side pockets, doubled over and raw cut profiles, 2 small side splits on the hem.

Daniela Gregis jacket in embossed cotton with two-colour vertical stripes, in white and vanilla, crew-neck, slightly double breasted, closure with button-up collar, a side pocket sewn onto the hem, splits on the sleeve hem, straight fit.

Yohji Yamamoto garçon style trousers in light slashed poplin cotton, overturned belt, soft line with darts, belt loops, buttons and zip closure, two diagonal side pockets, two small pockets with buttons on the back.

Rosa Mosa cotton canvas pois print and leather sneakers with rubber sole.

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Comme des Garçons dress Spring/Summer 2014

The first arrivals (Comme des Garçons, Junya Watanabe, Vivienne Westwood, Yohji Yamamoto, for example) for the next spring/summer season are starting to appear in store,

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Vivienne Westwood Spring/Summer 2014

Sari and Orlando Milan, among the people for the Vivienne Westwood fashion show…September, 28th, Rue du 4 September, Le Centorial

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Dressing on the sale doesn’t mean having to make do with clothes that are uninteresting or even mediocre. When there is an extensive choice, only a cursory glance, and items characterised by a certain formal complexity, it is inevitable that you could overlook the wearability, as well as the possible and many combinations that transform them.

A multi-brand store can become distracting and require an effort to envisage items that have little similarity. How to combine a t-shirt? And that skirt or those pants, what can I wear with them? These are all typical and recurring questions.

But the flexibility offered by an eye that is trained to mix colours and volumes could prove an invaluable help in building up your personal style, and without any exaggeration, your totally unique style.

One only has to think of certain horrific combinations in collections that were circulating during the winter months, gaining unconditional success, like the one from Comme des Garçons, for example?

So then, if you on the other hand feel the need for harmony even in the asymmetrical and unconventional proportions of a so-called radical fashion design, follow the suggestions worn and put together by our expert tutor Sari! Trying out, combining, putting together and understanding what works for us is just a question of practise!

Y’s Yohji Yamamoto chunky knit wool cape, wide shape, safety pin fastening, drawstring gathered hem detail at front, turn up to down wearable with shorter length effect

Pleats Please pleated polyester leggings, elasticated waistband, past calf length

Trippen classic lace-up bootee in calf leather

Rick Owens knit super kid mohair and silk cropped sweater, ribbed polo neck, high ribbed fitted hem band, long sleeves with long ribbed design, dropped shoulder

Rick Owens fine lambskin jacket with high waist leather drawstring, small funnel neck, concealed buttons fastening, two slit pockets, long raglan sleeves with wool ribbed detail, light padded cotton lining, interior pockets with button

Junya Watanabe balloon skirt pant, featuring a pleated slightly longer front with concealed zip fastening, in wool twill

Trippen classic lace-up bootee in calf leather

Yesey rabbit felt velour cloche hat with asymmetric brim

Sacai Luck cashmere knit top, featuring a crew neck with a rear slash with a rhinestone decorated ribbon closure, long sleeve with gathered cuff, ribbed hem

Junya Watanabe balloon skirt pant, featuring a pleated slightly longer front with concealed zip fastening, in wool twill

Trippen classic lace-up bootee in calf leather

Yesey man style floppy hat in boiled wool jersey with handmade embroidery edges

Yohji Yamamoto chunky sweater in knit wool ribbed design, amphora shape, round neck, long sleeves with cuffs, contrasting stitch detail to the sides, neck and cuffs, ribbed hem

Rick Owens creased salt and pepper wool cropped trousers, straight leg, waistband with belt loops and button fastening, side slanted pockets, two welt pockets with button at rear, full lining

Trippen classic lace-up bootee in calf leather

Yesey man style floppy hat in boiled wool jersey with handmade embroidery edges

Luisa Brini Maya calendar printed shawl in modal and wool mélange, fringed edges

Haat long cardigan knit in wool and angora blend with handmade patch of mix Maya pattern, shawl collar, long sleeves, inside ribbons knot fastening, turn up to down wearable with shorter effect

Y’s Yohji Yamamoto wide jodhpurs trousers in treated brushed finish flax, waistband with belt loops, front darts, – slanted pockets, side zip fastening, dropped crotch

Trippen classic lace-up bootee in calf leather

Luisa Brini American flag elements printed shawl in wool mélange, fringed edges

Sacai wool knit ribbed cardigan with hem frills, v neck, button fastening, long sleeves, frills in layers of bias cut cupro satin and pinstriped wool

Y’s Yohji Yamamoto jogging-type pants with pouch-like pockets and knitted bottom; with parts in knitted wool, polyamide and cashmere, and others in silk material.

Trippen classic lace-up bootee in calf leather

Scha soft wool mohair beret with elasticated hem band

Rick Owens knit super kid mohair and silk long fitted sweater, ribbed polo neck, long ribbed hem, dropped shoulder, long ribbed sleeves

Y’s Yohji Yamamoto jogging-type pants with pouch-like pockets and knitted bottom; with parts in knitted wool, polyamide and cashmere, and others in silk material.

Trippen classic lace-up bootee in calf leather

Scha soft featherlight hat with medium brimmed roll up edge in finest fur felt

Junya Watanabe short coat in wool serge stripe, man style jacket with attached panel trousers like effect, fitted shape, wide notched lapels, single breast button fastening, chest welt pocket, side patch pockets, long sleeves with buttoned cuffs, exposed seam details

Junya Watanabe classic sheath dress in mottled wool check with flower pattern devoré velvet sleeves, shaped fit, roundneck, external darts details, long sleeves with buttoned cuffs gathered at the shoulder, zip fastening and vent at rear, above knee length

Trippen classic lace-up bootee in calf leather

Scha soft wool mohair beret with elasticated hem band

Undercover-Jun Takahashi shirt jacket in cropped rabbit fur, featuring a shirt collar, concealed button fastening, long sleeves with cuffs, full lined

Junya Watanabe classic sheath dress in wool herringbone stripe, shaped fit, round neck, sleeveless, waist cut, external darts details, zip fastening and vent at rear, above knee length

Trippen classic lace-up bootee in calf leather

Yesey wool felt hat with pleats detail and turned up brim

Daniela Gregis man style jacket in washed wool and silk jacquard lozenge pattern, shape fit, single breasted, three cotton cuff links fastening, one in contrast tone, side patch pockets with slits, loops function, for different fabric and tone belt, unlined

Junya Watanabe classic sheath dress in wool herringbone stripe, shaped fit, round neck, sleeveless, waist cut, external darts details, zip fastening and vent at rear, above knee length

Trippen classic lace-up bootee in calf leather

 

 

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