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Summer time, holiday time, time for yourself. Departures time and packing time. For this new tour through our summer suggestions we took inspiration from that pre-departure trepidation, recurrent on this season, typical of those days preceding the long-awaited holiday. We imagined our clothes going on vacation, putting them into different hypothetical luggage. It doesn’t matter which will be your destination. A relaxed evening at the sunset on the seashore or a more reckless backpacking day in the mountains, a walk through the ancient splendour of a city of art or a crowded afternoon in the streets of a modern metropolis, we tried to adapt our choices to different holiday scenarios in order to make the clothes good traveling companions in every journey you will decide to embark on. As well a chance to mix up for you the items on sale, putting them under a new light and revealing the possible and various combinations. Enjoy it and above all enjoy your holidays!

Ys, Yohji, Yamamoto, Trippen, LGR, SS2014

Y’s Yohji Yamamoto calf length fitted at the waist dress in tencel jersey with “Mark Rothko” colours print, slip like shoulder straps, neck opening with net insert, central zip on the back, a small side pocket on the waist.

Yohji Yamamoto shoulder bag in smooth cow leather with wool gabardine sides, drawstring expanded, one small pocket at front and one at back, exposed zip closure, detachable buckle adjustable thin strap, cotton canvas lining, inside pocket.

Trippen simple flat sandal with one upper strap across the feet and a narrow one at the ankle with velcro fastening.

LGR woman’s sun-glasses with shaded grey photochromatic lenses; frame in flexible acetate by Mazzucchelli and lenses by Barberini.

Vivienne, Westwood, Trippen, Scha, SS 2014

Vivienne Westwood Gold Label dress/skirt in viscose with a big orchid print on a black background, elastic at the belt, two side welt pockets, wide and straight line, wearable as a long skirt or a calf length dress.

Vivienne Westwood Gold Label short cardigan in knitted cotton and silk, boat neck, sewn as two drawn near knitted fabrics with profiles in relief, open holes on the shoulders and on the sides, a small pocket diagonally sewn on the front, small band hem, tight fit.

Trippen high clog with cowhide leather bands and wood sole.covered with non-slip rubber, leather band with velcro closure, heel height 7,5 cm.

Blue Yesey hat, 100% straw.

Zucca, Cauliflower, Issey Miyake, Yesey, Rosa Mosa, SS 2014

Cauliflower Issey Miyake creased t-shirt in polyester jersey, wide round neck, short sleeves.

Zucca wide and long cardigan with cotton Norwegian jacquard, three quarter sleeve, V neck, sewn beads with Aztecan pattern on the shoulders, two side small pockets at the hem.

Zucca straight fit trousers in washed cotton poplin., two diagonal pockets on the front and a small pocket with button on the back, stitching in the inner thigh with a “jodhpurs” effect, sewn turn-up at the hem, belt loops.

Rosa Mosa cotton canvas pois print and leather sneakers with rubber sole.

Yesey hat, 100% paper.

Comme des garcons, Yohji Yamamoto, Forme D'Expression, Scha, Tracey Neuls, SS 2014

Comme des Garçons ”sculpture” shirt with overlapping shapes in popeline cotton, medium length, short sleeves with geometric design, wide crew-neck.

Forme d’Expression curve shaped skinny pants in black washed wool serge, leg with front curve cut, concealed button fastening, sides slit pocket, centre leg cut and welt pockets at rear, slightly shorter and pointed hem at the back.

Yohji Yamamoto doctor style tote in black garment texture soft leather, hinged top, double handles, can be wear on shoulder, cotton canvas lining, , one zipped, one cell phone holder and one slit inside pockets.

Tracey Neuls stringless shoes in soft cowhide leather, mocassin like upper with small holes on the tongue and with inner elastic band, leather sole.

Scha limited edition hat in vintage quality, very fine weave sisal double layers, soft and ultralight, small brim, pliable wire in the edge.

Oyuna, Bouboutic, Issey Miyake, Trippen, SS 2014

Boboutic wide t-shirt in stockinette stitch makò cotton and silk, falling raw cut short sleeves, wide and reinforced crew-neck, sewn with slight horizontal difference in colour from one shoulder to the other along the back, hem band, shorter at the front.

Oyuna sahrouel knitted jersey/crêpe de Chine cotton trousers, side small pocket on the hip, asymmetric line, elastic at the waist, wearable also as a below the knee skirt lifting up the bottom.

PLEATS PLEASE Issey Miyake half moon bag in slanting polyester pleating and leather trimmings, an inside small pocket with zip, inside lined with nylon, zip closure, strengthened bottom on the sides, removable handles with hook, cross body, shoulder or hand bag.

Trippen flip-flop sandal with classic “Trippen” wide sole and metallic cowhide leather bands outlining a open V on the instep, band with Velcro fastening around the ankle, rubber arch support.

 


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Issey Miyake FW 2013-2014

After many years working in stores, it still happens that someone stops by with a bewildered expression and asks the same fateful question:

So, what’s in style this year?

A professional, objective response could be to give a broad overview of the season’s trends…like:

stylists say no to the crisis, calling on women to courageously assert their femininity without renouncing the pleasures of luxury, as can be seen in the opulent sequin-covered jackets or leather pants hanging here…

or, the opposite:

the crisis is forcing women to be more modest, serious, and attentive to small everyday things, so here’s a multi-use jacket and top, with a touch of femininity in the key details, like staggeringly high heels and strictly above-the-knee lengths.

But, “we are what we eat”; and the only possible response from a space which feeds on research and clothing that effectively satisfies an independent-minded aesthetic is the following:

You know, I don’t know! I could tell them about this winter’s flights of fantasy and inspirations by Rei Kawakubo-Comme des Garçons;

Comme des Garçons Fall/Winter 2013-'14

Comme des Garçons jacket Fall/Winter 2013-'14

Comme des Garçons Fall/Winter 2013-'14

or about the cuts created by Yohji Yamamoto‘s sartorial musings;

Yohji Yamamoto Fall/Winter 2013-'14

or about Issey Miyake‘s textile experiments;

Issey Miyake Fall/Winter 2013-'14

Issey Miyake Scarf Fall/Winter 2013-'14

Issey MIyake scarf Fall/Winter 2013-'14

or if they prefer, I could help them discover the reversibility of every article of clothing by Daniela Gregis.

Daniela Gregis clothes Fall/Winter 2013-'14

Otherwise, I could show them the extraordinary cashmere colours made possible by a recent innovation in knitting technology…

Very Busy cachemire Fall/Winter 2013-'14

Very Busy cachemire Fall/Winter 2013-'14

Very Busy cachemire Fall/Winter 2013-'14

Very Busy cachemire Fall/Winter 2013-'14

…you are right, I am getting off track, but I feel underprepared to describe the trends for autumn-winter 2013-2014, I’m so sorry…


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The first impression one gets from Rei Kawakubo’s summer collection is that it is suited for the Tin Man from Frank L. Baum’s famous book, The Wizard of Oz. This impression is highlighted by eccentric tin hats sitting atop the heads of models with emotionless faces, whose make-up seems like it comes from another dimension, or another planet.

The daring genius of Comme des Garçons’ designer outlines the future for the Spring/Summer 2013 collection. The sculptural metal headdresses set the stage to present he conceptual value of the clothes in which each piece of clothing acts as a means to give form to something else in a veritable fashion meta-language. As simplified and superficial the message of the system may be, the more complex and structured Rei Kawakubo‘s proposals become.

Suits, vests, jackets and skirts made up of scraps and the leftover materials of other clothing, are sewn, layered and reassembled into contours that take shape with the extraordinary freedom of expression and incomparable skill of the clothier. Expertly crafted spiral lines, chaotic and yet balanced between solids and voids yield the profiles of T-shirts, jacket sleeves or surplus fabric that is then folded and crumpled to provide crafted, poetic origami effects.

Rei Kawakubo‘s exuberant creativity tailors pieces to be worn and interpreted according to personal preferences and feelings, making use of an aesthetic model of the most advanced contemporary artistic expressions, whose shape and structural uncertainty leave her work continuously open to  imagination!

and Sari, the photographer…

 

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The online catalogue is just about to be updated with the new Spring-Summer collections now in the shop. But while awaiting milder temperatures, let’s go on a trip to find out more about one of this season’s items. Something with a decidedly ingenious, original build.

The down jacket in the photo comes from the Issey Miyake cutting-edge textile laboratories and, through umpteen experiments, is an absolute novelty. Unlike those customary, foreseeable squares, the coat’s padding is sophisticated balls creating that bubble wrap effect, the well-known protective packaging used to transport fragile items.

Each ball is sewn singly with elasticized thread increasing the garment’s containing capacity.

Can you just imagine how complicated it is to repeat the same padded module umpteen times?

The line, simple on the whole, leaves room for the three-dimensional volume. The high thermal properties, a result of how the fabric is worked, coat length, weight, just about non-existent, and its innovative design can all be considered the garment’s special features. But let’s not forget details and comfort typical of the Miyake Maison. Like the neck, with its inner buttons, from which you can remove the wool and ausetex part.

The ideal coat for any winter temperature. A pleasant, useful alternative to those serial, cumbersome, seasonal down jackets.


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The idea of focusing so much attention on a single piece of clothing stems from the slightly didactic need to show off its quality and detail that are impossible to capture when skimming the pages of a catalogue.

A case in point, the Sacai dress in the picture:

What apparently looks like a very expensive, yet simple, knee-length dress, is in fact an example of an extremely labour-intensive silk garment. In the style of Chitose Abe, designer of the brand, one essential component accompanies another, more elaborate and decorative element.

Here, in fact, the chest item is a simple, crew-neck, stocking stitch, wool t-shirt. The cuffs, however, are silk appliqués, as if a fine wrist scarf was worn underneath in tune with the colours of the skirt.

The skirt is what gives meaning and value to the whole outfit. An adjustable fabric belt with studs marks the dividing line between the two parts, which are sewn together.

The lower part is pleated and made of a double-folded silk georgette with paisley print, pressed on polyester strips. The complexity of the manufacture can be seen both in the print – a fantasy of limited edition fabric – and in the intarsia of the silk and ribbon layers. Polyester and silk together not only guarantee the heavy finish of the skirt, but more importantly, are able to restore the integrity of the original design.

Despite the structural movement of the pleats, it is still possible to admire the continuity of the paisley abstractions on the two georgette layers. The manufacture involves a mathematical determination of the continuity of the image and the inevitable movement of the ribbons.

So now you know just how precious this item is!

Would you like to receive more information about the clothes in the catalogue? Do not hesitate to contact us, we will be more than happy to provide you with more details of the items that interest you!

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