Fashion | IVO MILAN - Radical Fashion Blog

Y’s Yohji Yamamoto A/W 2014-15… from Paris showroom

By: Francesca

17-01-2015

Abbigliamento, Accessori, Clothing, Design, Fashion, Marchi, Moda

Click here to see IVO MILAN at work at Y’s Yohji Yamamoto showroom in Paris.

The season sales could be boring, with the pedantic reappearance of garments already seen and maybe perceived, euphemistically, as leftover stock. But this is also the moment when the more relaxed rhythms allow us to go into and to share the vision of the choices still present in our shop.

In fact we are able finally to make available one of the film shot during the Paris Fashion Week, March of the next year, at Y’s Yohji Yamamoto showroom.

From the 1990′s, during the buying campaign, we got the habit to shot our selections. A supplementary work, which introduce itself in the complex activity of the seasonal buying, to start the comprehension of elaborate collections, often difficult, even for the mere fact of being very far and different from what the conventional channels usually show and advertise. This commitment, maybe not excellent from a ‘technical’ point of view, brings forward and allows to metabolize the garments that will be housed in the shop.

It’s a video heritage that not only will gradually compose our wide documentary archive, but could quietly insert itself in the present, to appreciate at their best garments, in many cases already part of the winter wardrobe of our customers, that are still available in our online catalogue and naturally at our shop in Padua.

Below, in sequence, the main characters, so to speak, the survivors of our video:

Y’s Yohji Yamamoto ‘Chanel’-like short jacket in carded polyester wool, acrylic and polyester, V neck, hooks closure, frayed cut raw edges, lined.

Y’s Yohji Yamamoto cotton poplin man shirt with sewn and laid on top panel staggered on a side on the breast, raw cut collar edges.

Y’s Yohji Yamamoto 5 pockets trousers in stretch cotton and polyurethane with side band in knitted wool, buttons and zip closure, belt loops, slim fit.

Y’s Yohji Yamamoto long sweater in plain knitted wool and rayon and wool parts, high neck in contrasting colour, a small patch expanding pocket with flap, soft fit, small band at the hem and on the cuffs.

Y’s Yohji Yamamoto 5 pockets trousers in wool gabardine with side band in knitted wool and polyurethane, zip and button closure, belt loops, slim fit.

Y’s Yohji Yamamoto big scarf in wool tartan with big polkadots print, fringes on the shorter sides, length 200 cm, height 72 cm.

Y’s Yohji Yamamoto cotton poplin man shirt with sewn and laid on top panel staggered on a side on the breast, raw cut collar edges.

Y’s Yohji Yamamoto 5 pockets trousers in stretch cotton and polyurethane with side band in knitted wool, buttons and zip closure, belt loops, slim fit.

Y’s Yohji Yamamoto dress in plain knitted wool with acrylic big ‘badly sewn’ polkadots, crew-neck, wide fitted at the waist line, bat three-quarter sleeves, two side pocket on the front, interesting to wear also with a belt.

Y’s Yohji Yamamoto 5 pockets trousers in wool gabardine with side band in knitted wool and polyurethane, zip and button closure, belt loops, slim fit.

Trippen black lace up shoes in vegetable-tanned calf leather treated with wax finish, wood wedge with para rubber sole.

Y’s Yohji Yamamoto white poplin dress and long waistcoat in knitted wool jacquard, raw-cut frayed edges, lace closure on the neck, two patch side pockets, closed on the front and opened on the back, wearable front/back.

‘Classic Trippen’ ankle boot in oiled suede cowhide leather with strings and small hooks, removable cork insole, rubber sole.

Y’s Yohji Yamamoto dress with wool jersey bodice and cupro and tencel neck, bottom and sleeves, shirt small neck collar, a vertical side small pocket, shirt-like cuffs with small buttons, wide fit.

Trippen black lace up shoes in vegetable-tanned calf leather treated with wax finish, wood wedge with para rubber sole.

Y’s Yohji Yamamoto padded pea coat in wool gabardine, trench style neck, press studs closure, wide bat sleeve, 2 side vertical pockets with zip, knitted fabric cuffs, trapezium line, adjustable coulisse at the bottom, reversible.

Trippen black lace up shoes in vegetable-tanned calf leather treated with wax finish, wood wedge with para rubber sole.

Oyuna padded pea coat in plain knitted cashmere, pin safety closure, cowl neck, dressing gown sleeves, two side vertical welt pockets, circle seams, reversible, available with agate lining.

Y’s Yohji Yamamoto baggy man style trousers in floral washed cotton brocade, button and zip closure, belt loops, 2 pockets on the front, 2 low big pockets on the back, adjustable back strap.

Trippen black lace up shoes in vegetable-tanned calf leather treated with wax finish, wood wedge with para rubber sole.

…What you would even imagine!

By: Francesca

28-11-2014

Abbigliamento, Accessori, Art, Arte, Clothing, Design, Fashion, Moda, Various

Packaging by Maison Issey Miyake for the circular pleated jacket.

Issey Miyake ‘sculpture’ short and fitted at the waist jacket in triacetate and polyester circular pleated printed with regular small bars, shawl neck, small button closure.

Less than one month from the Christmas holidays, many cities have already mounted sumptuous decorations on trees, buildings and along the streets. Being a great occasion to set on stage the kitsch or more successful urban aesthetic experimentations, the voltaic excess of the moment lights up for sure the December anxiety-inducing question: What am I giving to…?

A strong anxiolytic against the stress caused by the search with no results, running and dipping into over-crowded and definitely unflattering places, could be starting a more comfortable exploration of the online catalogue…From the painted Very Busy cashmeres to the engineering Bao Bao Issey Miyake bag, or the Fulvio Luparia scarves and the inimitable Issey Miyake pleated spirals, the choice becomes a walk around the Radical Fashion panoramas.

Very Busy 1 thread on point 8 cashmere cardigan with abstract painted effect printing with side windows, reversible.

Vivienne Westwood Red Label ankle length trousers in pinstripe wool, close-fitting, belt with belt loops, zip and ‘Vivienne’ button closure, two diagonal side front pockets, two small welt pockets with triangular flap and small buttons on the back.

Very Busy wide sweater in stocking stitch cashmere with tone on tone colour shades , wide crew-neck, reversible.

Comme des garçons Comme des Garçons large skirt in nylon sateen quilted on the inside, elastic band and coulisse on the belt.

Trippen high ankle boots in oiled suede cowhide leather, with laces and small hooks, removable inner cork sole, rubber sole.

Very Busy 1 thread on point 8 cashmere sweater with abstract painted effect, high cowl neck, trapeze line, reversible.

Very Busy wide sweater in stocking stitch cashmere with abstract printing with a painted effect, turtle soft neck, reversible.

Trippen high ankle boots in oiled suede cowhide leather, with laces and small hooks, removable inner cork sole, rubber sole.

Very Busy 1 thread on point 8 cashmere sweater with abstract painted effect, high cowl neck, trapeze line, reversible.

Very Busy wide cardigan in stocking stitch cashmere with big rectangle pattern in different colours with a painted effect, wide V neck, reversible.

Trippen high ankle boots in oiled suede cowhide leather, with laces and small hooks, removable inner cork sole, rubber sole.

Bao Bao Issey Miyake small ball bicoloured bag made of three-dimensional triangular plates in metallic PVC repeated with origami calculations on a cotton base, cuff handle, zip closure, circumference 55 cm.

Issey Miyake long, reversible coat in wool and angora bicolour fleece, half-closed neck, three buttons closure, one wrist button, shorter on the front, raglan shoulder, two side diagonal patch pockets.

Bao Bao Issey Miyake medium-sized bag made of triangular plates in glossy polyurethane repeated with origami calculations, press button closure, 2 small pockets on the inside, one with a zip, h 30 cm x w 35 cm.

Yohji Yamamoto wide coat in herringbone light twill in wool and polyamide, big padded neck, double slider zip closure, two welt side vertical pockets, but sleeve with opening and dropped panel, lined.

Trippen heavy-duty boot style ankle boot in cowhide leather, closure with strings and strap with outer side buckle, smooth leather on the heel and on the toe, the other parts in rough leather, removable cork insole, rubber sole.

Bao Bao Issey Miyake small shoulder bag made of triangular plates in matt PVC repeated with origami calculations on a polyester net base, zip closure, an open inner pocket, adjustable shoulder strap, h 20 cm x w 30 cm.

Comme des Garçons Comme des Garçons wide pea-coat in nylon sateen quilted on the inside, buttons closure, hood, asymmetric line with side points, shorter on the front, two inner side patch pockets, open flap under the armpit.

Comme des Garçons dry hand calf-length skirt in heavy knitted wool, polyester, nylon and acrylic, sewn large pleating, elastic and drawstring at the waist.

Comme des Garçons long and thin shoe in cowhide leather, two small symmetric cuts with elastic band barely visible on the instep, rubber sole.

Bao Bao Issey Miyake medium-sized mail bag made of triangular plates in glossy PVC repeated with origami calculations, two dovetailed buttons closure, a small inner pocket, big outside pocket with zip, adjustable shoulder strap, h 30 cm x w 36 cm.

Comme des Garçons soft hand short jacket in wool and polyester on a raw cut white cotton base sticking out from the hem and from the sleeve, crew-neck, buttons closure.

Comme des Garçons dry hand calf-length skirt in heavy knitted wool, polyester, nylon and acrylic, sewn large pleating, elastic and drawstring at the waist.

Fulvio Luparia cashmere scarf, W 70 cm. x L 200 cm.

Oyuna plain knitted cashmere coat with padded bib in contrasting colour and irregular diamonds seams, high cowl neck, buttons closure, two vertical side pockets, reversible in/out and up/down.

Fulvio Luparia cashmere scarf, W cm. 90 x L cm. 180.

Comme des Garçons long coat with a pinstriped gabardine base and over heavy knitted wool, polyester, nylon and acrylic applications, crew-neck, single-breasted, no buttons.

‘Classic Trippen’ ankle boot in bicolour cowhide leather, with strings and small hooks, removable cork insole, rubber sole.

Fulvio Luparia modal and cashmere scarf, W cm. 140 x L cm. 200.

Oyuna plain knitted cashmere coat with padded bib in contrasting colour and irregular diamonds seams, high cowl neck, buttons closure, two vertical side pockets, reversible in/out and up/down.

Trippen ankle boots in oiled and suede cowhide leather, vertical inner side zip closure, high hill consisting of three blocks with different heights in anti-slip.

Fulvio Luparia silk and cashmere scarf, W cm. 90 x L cm. 180.

Daniela Gregis hand knitted wide cardigan in mohair and silk, high shawl neck, safety pin closure, two small patch pockets at the hem.

Vivienne Westwood Red Label short skirt in pinstripe wool, with asymmetric panels, two side slits, two darts front and back, belt, zip and small button side closure, ‘Red Label’ lined.

‘Classic Trippen’ ankle boot in bicolour cowhide leather, with strings and small hooks, removable cork insole, rubber sole.

Issey Miyake big ring scarf in polyester with three-dimensional cylindrical bubbles pleating, reversible.

Issey Miyake calf-length dress in diagonal and vertical pleated polyester with large bands printing, sleeveless with asymmetric tips on the sleeve back, tighter basque at the hem, completely asymmetric, wearable shorter lifting up the basque.

Trippen ankle boot in soft suede cowhide leather, with a comma elastic both sides of the ankle, with 2 shells sole.

Issey Miyake short and large horizontal and circular pleated t-shirt in polyester with an alcantara effect, boat neck, flared sleeve.

Issey Miyake tight-fitting trousers in stretch wool canvas and polyurethane, belt loops, zip and button closure, two side diagonal front pockets and two welt back pockets with button, outside split at the hem.

Trippen ankle boot in soft suede cowhide leather, with a comma elastic both sides of the ankle, with 2 shells sole.

Issey Miyake tunic in heavy polyester pleating with a serpentine movement, boat neck, flared sleeve, side welt pockets, irregular segmental hem.

Trippen ankle boot in soft suede cowhide leather, with a comma elastic both sides of the ankle, with 2 shells sole.

Issey Miyake short t-shirt in heavy polyester pleating with serpentine movement, boat neck, flared sleeve, irregular segmental hem.

Trippen ankle boot in soft suede cowhide leather, with a comma elastic both sides of the ankle, with 2 shells sole.

Zilla small “bread bag” in creased laminated nappa leather in iridescent copper on the outside and matt black on the inside, hand hole, h 31 cm x w 19 cm.

Forme d’Expression long coat in big moss stitch knitted wool, with hood, press buttons closure, two patch pockets.

…And the gift wrap? HEART-BOX and its workforces will be at work to wrap up with papers, twines, colours and glues not only your selection but the most noble gesture, the gift to someone you care!

Yohji Yamamoto Autumn/Winter 2014-15

By: Francesca

20-09-2014

Abbigliamento, Accessori, Art, Arte, Clothing, Design, Fashion, Moda, Various

Celtic harsh resonances support the presentation of a simply great Yohji Yamamoto’s Autumn/Winter collection, in an alternation of folk melodies suggesting the thematic references chosen for the coming season. Resolute in going into all the possible connections between the sartorial work and the artistic dimension, the great Japanese master embraces a narrative bond with the artist Yasuto Sasada, where form and colour converge in the same figurative imagery.

In fact both, one through the study of the volumes and of the formal structures of the garments, the other with the chromatic ability of the drawing, offer an amazing representation of that syncretism, typical of the Japanese culture, between traditional and contemporary elements. Printings of archaic mythological figures, in metamorphosis with ultracontemporary pop and manga references, overlap themselves with the plentiful dimensions of the outerwear.

Shapes evocating ancient social roles, fully-developed and made up-to-date with absolutely more modern times, thanks to an efficient balance between the fabric selection, from the wool to the cotton canvas, and the cutting-edge movement of the forms in the ever-present Yohji’s black.

If the urban streets show off replicants suffocated inside all the same skimpy padded coat, Yohji Yamamoto challenges the lazy and atavistic trend to homologation offering the possibility to distinguish the self inside garments conceived as first works, not only never seen before, but most of all heralding of thought, ideas and respect towards who would wear them.

*All the pictures of the Backstage of Yohji Yamamoto A/W 2014-15 Fashion Show are by Elise Toïdé.

Yohji Yamamoto wide padded coat in heavy padded cotton, wide neck with hood, no buttons or zip closure, two vertical welt pockets.

Yohji Yamamoto classic twill trousers printed with artist Yasuto Sasada drawings, tight at the bottom, 2 front diagonal pockets and 2 welt pockets with small button on the back, zip and button closure, belt loops and inserted strap with buckle, lined.

Yohji Yamamoto wool gabardine coat with sewn padded scarf, crew-neck, high side zip, two horizontal pockets on the front, zip closure with double slider, wide line, lined.

Trippen black lace up shoes in vegetable-tanned calf leather treated with wax finish, wood wedge with para rubber sole.

Yohji Yamamoto jacket/shirt in printed twill with artist Yasuto Sasada drawings, high neck, double slider zip closure, raw cut outlines, upturned V side inserts in plain colour, under-sleeve with a long open band, 2 welt pockets.

Yohji Yamamoto man style trousers with low crutch in soft wool flannel, tight at the bottom, two diagonal pockets on the front, two flap pockets on the back, button and zip closure, belt loops.

Trippen black lace up shoes in vegetable-tanned calf leather treated with wax finish, wood wedge with para rubber sole.

Yohji Yamamoto long dress in wool jersey and woollen cloth, slightly rolled up neck, two pockets with flaps on side panels, laid on top panels along the sleeves.

‘Classic Trippen’ ankle boot in bicolour cowhide leather, with strings and small hooks, removable cork insole, rubber sole.

Yohji Yamamoto cotton canvas long overcoat, single-breasted, hood, two symmetric vertical raw-cut stitchings on the front, two vertical pockets on the front, zip closure with double slider, metallic small unicorn and small bird of prey.

Trippen black lace up shoes in vegetable-tanned calf leather treated with wax finish, wood wedge with para rubber sole.

Yohji Yamamoto down pea coat in heavy cotton canvas, single-breasted, wide neck, 2 big patch pockets with 2 diagonal welt pockets laid upon them, longer on the back with upside down V central split, double slider zip closure.

Yohji Yamamoto long dress in wool jersey and woollen cloth, slightly rolled up neck, two pockets with flaps on side panels, laid on top panels along the sleeves.

Yohji Yamamoto short pea coat in cotton canvas and synthetic fur on the wide cushion neck and on the mittens, guru neck, double slider zip closure, 2 horizontal pockets with zip, padded collar badge, straight line, cotton lined.

Yohji Yamamoto long dress in wool jersey and woollen cloth, slightly rolled up neck, two pockets with flaps on side panels, laid on top panels along the sleeves.

Yohji Yamamoto jacket/pea coat in wool gabardine, doubled high neck, upside down V wool knitted side inserts, double slider zip closure. 2 side welt pockets, bat sleeve with opened under arms with dropped panel.

Yohji Yamamoto man shirt in cotton poplin with doubled trimmings folded near the neck.

Yohji Yamamoto man trousers with low crouch in soft wool and cotton tweed, tight at the bottom, two diagonal front pockets, two flap pockets on the back, closure with zip and buttons, belt loops.

Trippen high ankle boot in oiled suede cowhide leather with aged effect , double slider spiral zip around the ankle, staggered edging, removable cork insole, anti-slip rubber sole.

Yohji Yamamoto long dress in wool jersey and woollen cloth, slightly rolled up neck, two pockets with flaps on side panels, laid on top panels along the sleeves.

‘Classic Trippen’ ankle boot in bicolour cowhide leather, with strings and small hooks, removable cork insole, rubber sole.

Final Home…Life, Survival, Protection!

By: Francesca

23-08-2014

Abbigliamento, Art, Arte, Clothing, Design, Fashion, Moda

Sun, rain, hot, cold…It’s really difficult to decide what to wear when the weather is unsettled, maybe we are even far from home and it’s not possible to sheltered from sudden meteorological changes.

It’s hard especially if you don’t know the Final Home line. Offshoot of the designer Kosuke Tsumura’s longstanding artistic endeavours, Final Home gives hint with its name of the idea at the basis of the project: it proposes to provide ultra practical piece of clothing that could become your shelter in case of natural disasters. The functionality is so much identifying that it has been described as an extraordinary futuristic expression of style and function. Each Final Home jacket, overcoat, waistcoat is overall waterproof and very light to be brought along, but the intelligence is shown in the multi-zips which not only connote clearly the brand design but they have a specific function: to be filled up. In fact inside them it’s possible to put in padded ‘cushions’ that transform drastically the piece of clothing seasonal nature: from a mid-season raincoat to a winter padded jacket, or crumpled up newspaper pages to increase the windproof function. Actually inside the pockets made by the zips it’s possible to put in every kind of objects absolutely necessary to us or, when the article is made in see-through polyester, to use the “filling” as a decorative chance.

Awarded with countless recognitions, featured in different contemporary art exhibitions (among the last ones Future Beauty: 30 Years of Japanese Fashion in Tokyo), Kosuke Tsumura forms itself in the Miyake Design Studios and for several years had a hand in the Issey Miyake’s collections.

The school of the great Japanese master is wisely personalized in a timeless project, technologic and futuristic, practical and also poetic in its essential cheerfulness.

Final Home long padded unisex coat in see-through nylon canvas doubled with camouflage canvas in polyester and down, zip for ‘cushions’, coulisse at the waist, hood, double closure with zit and inner pressure buttons, inner wrist cuffs with elastic.

Final Home unisex blouson in cotton jersey on the outside and colour contrast metallic zip, hood, reflective polyester lining, two way zip closure, high band wrist cuffs, 2 vertical side pockets, padding can inserted in the zip.

Final Home long unisex coat in see-through and stiff polyester canvas, with zip for padded ‘cushions’ con zip or to be filled with objects and coloured paper, hood, coulisse at the waist, two way zip closure and inner pressure buttons.

Final Home unisex pea coat in see-through and stiff polyester canvas, with zip for padded ‘cushions’ con zip or to be filled with objects and coloured paper, hood, coulisse at the bottom, two way zip closure and inner pressure buttons.

Final Home unisex blouson-like waistcoat in polyester canvas, zip for the padded “cushions” only on the front, with hood, double closure: two way zip at the bottom and pressure buttons at the top, two vertical side pockets, bottom with band.

First autumn shots

By: Francesca

13-08-2014

Art, Design, Fashion

The placid summer calm of the sunny and semi-desert city alleys during August bank holidays clashes with the rapid pace of IVO MILAN shop…

Couriers, boxes delivered, boxes to be opened, pictures to be shot. The autumn/winter 2014-15 catalogue is in full preparation. Intense, exciting moments for the amazement in looking at so much waited previews.

For example, Yohji Yamamoto ravishes with surprisingly involving textile spaces, in the prints of the Japanese artist Yasuto Sasada or in the extreme volumes of his coats and overcoats.

The unisex pieces of Final Home, raincoats to be stuffed strategically with removable pads or windproof papers and newspapers. But also Vivienne Westwood, with the Gold and the Red lines, the British style deconstructed and re-invented by IVO MILAN. And the urban and vaguely grunge silhouettes of Rick Owens already live together and are making their entry in the racks together with Forme d’Expression, Zucca, Boboutic, Shu Moriyama, etc.

Day after day the online anthology for the next season becomes more complete and more articulate, during its definition we hand you some shots stolen from the backstage, a small tasting to share it with you and maybe, with the interpretation of our Alice Sofia, it will help you to forget for a second the sultry weather of these days. Enjoy it!

YOHJI YAMAMOTO x YASUTO SASADA