From Oratorio della Passione della basilica of Sant’Ambrogio a Milano, Thursday 24th September at 18 pm, from our position the preview for next Daniela Gregis Spring/Summer…
Photo courtesy of Sari Milan
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Korean author and Italian production for Forme d’Expression, a brand that in few years discretely made its entry in the most interesting spaces of the vanguard fashion. The language of Koeun Park has a resolute, defined and recognizable identity, it’s able to interact and soften the most visionary and daring manifestations of the Japanese school.
Superimpositions, asymmetries and diagonal cuts, a certain attraction for the over volumes, sometimes unisex, together with a constant fabric research, often with a lived and rough aspect, outline the Forme spirit. Dry or very soft wools, wide sweater with cowl necks, outer stitching, damask canvas, not finished edgings, reversible garments, materials to be looked closer, undefined or melange colorations. Metropolitan, vaguely existentialist, the world of the Korean designer dialogues, with neatness and firm belief, with a cultured and reserved audience, removed from every concept and exhibitionism so dear to the fashion system.
Forme d’Expression wide pea coat in damask wool cloth with checks, shawl neck, shorter on the back, points on the front, pointed bottom, closure with button on the neck or on the side.
Forme d’Expression wool jersey trousers with waistband and knee-length doubled leg, soft line, two side welt pockets and one patch pocket on the back.
Forme d’Expression jacket in creased cotton, wool, linen and polyester canvas, single-breasted, guru neck, buttons closure, 2 horizontal welt pockets.
Forme d’Expression t-shirt in soft viscose jersey, crew-neck, slim fit, asymmetric at the bottom, long sleeve.
Forme d’Expression wide trousers in cotton, wool, linen and polyester canvas with low crutch, belt loops, zip and button closure, two patch pockets on the back.
Trippen ankle boot in soft suede cowhide leather slightly creased on the instep, side zip closure, new ‘spot’ sole with two rubber blocks and non-slip base made on iron stamp.
Forme d’Expression wide reversible pea coat in doubled wool fabric with a bouclé effect, shawl neck that becomes an hood, two rounded patch pockets on the front, pin safe closure.
Forme d’Expression wide and heavy hand-knitted wool and cashmere sweater, raglan shoulder, big ring neck, egg line, ribbed neck, cuff and bottom band.
Forme d’Expression wide trousers in cotton, wool, linen and polyester canvas with low crutch, belt loops, zip and button closure, two patch pockets on the back.
Trippen heavy-duty boot style ankle boot in cowhide leather, closure with strings and strap with outer side buckle, smooth leather on the heel and on the toe, the other parts in rough leather, removable cork insole, rubber sole.
Forme d’Expression classic jacket in wool and ramie gabardine, doubled at the bottom with an overlapped jackets effect, single-breasted, button closure, half-closed neck without lapels with darts, 2 welt horizontal pockets on the front.
A punto B tight calf-length skirt in heavy cotton, two oblique pockets, darts on the front, central zip back closure.
Forme d’Expression close-fitting t-shirt in doubled wool jersey, crew-neck, with external vertical central stitching on the front, along the sleeve and along the side.
Forme d’Expression trousers with drawstring in heavy wool jersey, low crutch, preformed leg, two side welt pockets, two patch pockets on the back.
Trippen heavy-duty boot style ankle boot in cowhide leather, closure with strings and strap with outer side buckle, smooth leather on the heel and on the toe, the other parts in rough leather, removable cork insole, rubber sole.
Forme d’Expression pea coat in padded wool canvas, shorter on the back, wide shawl neck, points on the front, pointed hem, button closure on the neck or on the side, two side welt pockets, lined.
Forme d’Expression long and wide sweater in wool and dotted alpaca in contrasting colour with a yarn effect, wide crawl neck, long kimono sleeve, two side slits, slightly longer on the back.
A punto B tight calf-length skirt in heavy cotton, two oblique pockets, darts on the front, central zip back closure.
Forme d’Expression pea coat in padded wool canvas, shorter on the back, wide shawl neck, points on the front, pointed hem, button closure on the neck or on the side, two side welt pockets, lined.
Forme d’Expression high closed neck warmer in doubled knitted soft wool and cashmere in two different colours inside-outside, reversible.
Forme d’Expression trousers with drawstring in heavy wool jersey, low crutch, preformed leg, two side welt pockets, two patch pockets on the back.
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“Exploring dimensionality through clothing” has laically synthesized the spokesman of the Japanese designer in a pedantic announcement after the Autumn/Winter fashion show 2015-16 held at the Palais du Tokyo in Paris last 7th March.
Not new to astonishing textile exercises Junya Watanabe, Rei Kawakubo’s favorite and still produced by the Comme des Garçons maison, in fact made his debut enchanting the audience with poetic floral structure to wear.
Yet the developing of the origami theme assumes today a different character, in certain aspects less ethereal, more conceptual and nearer to the immaterial and complex dimension of the algorithmic logic, where recursive and homogeneous series determinate almost perfect extensions.
Soft wool jersey spheres, of which three-dimensionality has been realized trough the obsessive repetition of a basic geometric pattern, decorate necks, dresses bottoms and sweaters or just stand as independent architectures in the cases of capes and scarves.
In different experiments it’s the strictness of the pyramidal geometry, starting from an essential volumetric unit of measure, to be recomposed in polyester sateen sculptural jackets.
The calculation obsession is showed off by complex and abstruse mathematic functions tattooed in the few free skin glimpses of the models on the runway: hands, ankles reveal the impetuosity of an irrepressible numeric word.
Junya Watanabe Autumn/Winter 2015-16 Runway Details
Source: style.com http://www.style.com/fashion-shows/fall-2015-ready-to-wear/junya-watanabe
Nature and culture, order and chaos, co-existing dichotomy from the revelations of the most modern physics, are translated into harmonious decorative fabric abstractions.
The most cyber and post-modern of the Japanese designers seems going to the fractal complex theoretical visions, he’s experimenting a fabric expression to wear with its usual and peculiar visionary character, in certain case even in the routine of the everyday life, taking us with bewilderment and well in advance respect the others towards unimaginable future horizons.
Junya Watanabe wool jersey dress with wide corolla neck in three-dimensional origami, soft fit, sleeve tight to the waist, wearable also as a t-shirt.
Junya Watanabe hip-length sculpture cape with pyramid origami in polyester sateen, hook closure, oval gab on the back, lined.
Junya Watanabe calf-length striped dress in light wool jersey with three-dimensional origami half-moon bottom, crew-neck, shorts pants on the inside, back zip closure.
Junya Watanabe classic man shirt in horizontal pleated cotton and polyester, rounded hem, cuff with button, central button closure, shirt neck.
Junya Watanabe calf-length skirt in origami polyester taffetas, elastic band at the waist, reversible, tighter on a side at the hem, flared on the other side, reversible and wearable as a cape.
Junya Watanabe Oxford style shoe in oiled and suede cowhide leather with an aged effect, strings closure, 2 shells rubber sole.
Junya Watanabe hip-length cardigan in light wool jersey with shawl floral origami neck, long sleeve, central small buttons closure.
Junya Watanabe cape jacket in polyester sateen, turtle-neck, single-breasted, ¾ sleeve, flat on front, wide back with waves and darts, central buttons closure.
Junya Watanabe classic man shirt in horizontal pleated cotton and polyester, rounded hem, cuff with button, central button closure, shirt neck.
Junya Watanabe calf-length skirt in origami polyester taffetas, elastic band at the waist, reversible, tighter on a side at the hem, flared on the other side, reversible and wearable as a cape.
Junya Watanabe wide corolla cape in wool jersey floral origami, zip closure.
Junya Watanabe classic man shirt in horizontal pleated cotton and polyester, rounded hem, cuff with button, central button closure, shirt neck.
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In contrast with a world becoming more and more small, fast and homogeneous, Daniela Gregis insists in shaping what we could call a slow living, a reduced-speed and a man measured modus vivendi. The designer from Bergamo resists to the globalising forces with proposals that sponge on the most typical suggestions expressed by the nature season alternating. The attention for the Spring/Summer 2015 is focused on the beautiful cobalt blue sceneries of the summer skies, in their different chromatic and imagery intensity. It could be the compulsive trait of a nose up little boy, or a more regular composition idea, with methodic blue flowers and squares prints, to be welcomed on fabrics that lend themselves as pictorial canvas. Spots and patterns are placed with skill on a textile base, selected ad hoc from time to time: the linen, to emphasize shades and opacity, the cotton, to go back on the more clear effects and the silk, to give back the darker and more suggestive hours, dotted with gold meteors.
But it is possible to find the slow life outlined by Gregis also in the shapes, a very personal combination of slim and wide lines, stratifications, interpretative possibilities opened to reversible garments, with a front and a back, an inside and outside, often very different from each other. Widths, stripes, seersucker, polka-dots, London liberty, knitting, crochet and loom work, an artisanal world, a voice that stands out of the crowd, that resists with stubborn and unimaginable accuracy the hurry and the approximation.
Daniela Gregis waterproof silk faille overcoat with spots pattern, two patch pockets, ‘Gregis’ holes on the sides.
Daniela Gregis doubled overcoat in melange linen gauze and canvas, half-closed neck, irregular rounded quilting, ¾ sleeve, vertical welt pockets on the side, side ‘Gregis’ holes, wide line, wearable up and down, reversible, belt in the same fabric.
Daniela Gregis calf-length dress in linen canvas with a printed watercolour effect, straight line, boat neck, flared sleeve, belt in the same fabric, side ‘Gregis’ holes.
Daniela Gregis calf-length dress in linen canvas with a printed watercolour effect, straight line, boat neck, flared sleeve, belt in the same fabric, side ‘Gregis’ holes.
Classic’ Trippen ankle-length boot in soft elk leather with rounded tip, diagonal zip on the upper part, side zip closure, removable cork insole, rubber sole.
Daniela Gregis man jacket in washed linen canvas with pastel spots printing, slim fit, single-breasted with small lapels, two fabric cuff links closure, two welt pocket at the hem and one on the breast, cuff slit, two back slits.
Daniela Gregis dress with knitted cotton bodice and doubled skirt in embossed vicky cotton and striped silk, boat neck, ¾ sleeve, two side vertical welt pockets, ‘Gregis’ holes on the sides, reversible.
Daniela Gregis dress with knitted cotton bodice and doubled skirt in embossed vicky cotton and striped silk, boat neck, ¾ sleeve, two side vertical welt pockets, ‘Gregis’ holes on the sides, reversible.
Trippen sabot in soft vegetable tanned leather with white wax glazing that wear away with use, double band, one rivet and holes adjustable, metal loop, see through wooden wedge heel.
Daniela Gregis man jacket in washed and creased cotton canvas with stripes, slim fit, single-breasted with small lapels, fabric cuff link closure, two patch pockets at the hem, one central back slit.
Daniela Gregis niki shirt in silk crêpe de chine, boat neck, winglet sleeve, ‘Gregis’ holes on the sides, reversible, wearable also as a foulard.
Daniela Gregis wide man style trousers in washed and creased oxford cotton, opened on the front with inner elastic ribbon, belt loops and belt in the same fabric, side pockets, turned up at the bottom.
Classic’ Trippen ankle-length boot in soft elk leather with rounded tip, diagonal zip on the upper part, side zip closure, removable cork insole, rubber sole.
Daniela Gregis man style jacket in washed and creased cotton poplin with stripes, slim fit, single-breasted with small lapels, fabric cuff link closure, two patch pockets at the hem, one central back slit.
Daniela Gregis niki shirt in silk crêpe de chine, boat neck, winglet sleeve, ‘Gregis’ holes on the sides, reversible, wearable also as a foulard.
Daniela Gregis wide man style trousers in washed and creased oxford cotton, opened on the front with inner elastic ribbon, belt loops and belt in the same fabric, side pockets, turned up at the bottom.
Trippen flat shoe in flatted cowhide leather, essential line with inner edge higher on a side, two separated rubber shells sole.
Daniela Gregis calf-length dress with knitted linen bodice and curled skirt in linen gauze doubled on printed cotton canvas with a ‘cobalt brush strokes’ effect, boat neck, sleeveless, side welt pockets, side ‘Gregis’ holes.
Classic’ Trippen ankle-length boot in soft elk leather with rounded tip, diagonal zip on the upper part, side zip closure, removable cork insole, rubber sole.
Daniela Gregis short cardigan in hand-knitted linen with colour spots on the higher part, crew-neck, over-the-wrist sleeve, fabric cuff link closure.
Daniela Gregis dress with bodice in different kind of knitted cotton and curled heme in crêpe de chine and linen gauze, cotton etamine slip, ¾ sleeve with slit, two side vertical welt pockets, ‘Gregis’ holes on the sides, wearable front/back.
Daniela Gregis calf-length dress in linen gauze and silk crêpe de chine, cotton etamine slip, boat neck, raw cut edging, sleeveless, curled hem, two side vertical welt pockets, ‘Gregis, holes on the sides.
Trippen sabot in soft vegetable tanned leather with white wax glazing that wear away with use, double band, one rivet and holes adjustable, metal loop, see through wooden wedge heel.
Daniela Gregis calf-length dress with knitted linen bodice and embossed linen gauze bottom, boat neck, ¾ sleeve, side welt pockets, ‘Gregis’ holes, straight line.
Trippen flat shoe in flatted cowhide leather, essential line with inner edge higher on a side, two separated rubber shells sole.
Daniela Gregis multicolour short bucket handbag in heavy crocheted linen and cotton, double handles, circular bottom, h 23 cm x d 35 cm.
Trippen flat shoe in flatted cowhide leather, essential line with inner edge higher on a side, two separated rubber shells sole.
Daniela Gregis niki shirt in silk crêpe de chine, boat neck, winglet sleeve, ‘Gregis’ holes on the sides, reversible, wearable also as a foulard.
Daniela Gregis linen canvas sarong skirt, waistband closure and two small belt loops in light fabric thread, it should be curled on the front, hem with waves.
Daniela Gregis linen medium duffel bag with thin vertical stripes, one short sewn handle in the same fabric, rectangular bottom, l 27 cm x h 44 cm x d 38 cm.
Daniela Gregis linen big duffel bag with high horizontal stripes, one short sewn handle in the same fabric, rectangular bottom, high frayed edge, l 24 cm x h 57 cm x d 37 cm.
Daniela Gregis wide jumpsuit in washed cotton with graphic square and flowers printing, adjustable straps with knots, two patch side big pockets.
Daniela Gregis niki shirt in silk crêpe de chine, boat neck, winglet sleeve, ‘Gregis’ holes on the sides, reversible, wearable also as a foulard.
Zoccolo alto Trippen con fasce in pelle di vacchetta laminata e suola in legno rivestito da gomma anti-scivolo, allacciatura con fascia di pelle con velcro alla caviglia, altezza tacco 7,5 cm.
Daniela Gregis double face shirt: one side in linen gauze and the other in cotton poplin with graphic’ squares and flowers printing; open crew-neck, half sleeve with slit, two side vertical welt pockets, ‘Gregis’ holes on the sides, wide fit, reversible.
Daniela Gregis calf-length skirt in washed cotton with graphic squares and flowers printing, elastic band at the belt, curled at the waist, doubled with a vertical parallel pockets effect on the lining, reversible.
Daniela Gregis crocheted bucket bag in heavy multicolour cotton and linen, double handles, rectangular bottom, heart-shaped bottom in heavy multicolour crocheted fabric, l 43 cm x h 33 cm.
Daniela Gregis calf-length tulip line skirt with stitched panels in doubled printed linen canvas with ‘irregular polka-dots’ spots, fringed cut raw hem, a small welt side pocket, fabric-covered buttons at the belt to adjust the size.
Daniela Gregis crocheted bucket bag in heavy multicolour cotton and linen, hold by hand and very thin cord shoulder strap, half-closed circles bottom l 51 x h 24 cm x d 22 cm.
Daniela Gregis calf-length tulip line skirt with stitched panels in doubled printed linen canvas with ‘irregular polka-dots’ spots, fringed cut raw hem, a small welt side pocket, fabric-covered buttons at the belt to adjust the size.
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It has been a while since we not coming back to the space/workshop that contains every our activity: online catalogue composition, shop windows, communications, presentations and everything in general gives life to the shop. In fact everything takes place inside the boutique in Via Santa Lucia, in Padua city centre. Here the collections selected during the buying campaign find their placement, they are interpreted and put together in combinations possible only in context where different brands live together, as happens in our space. For this reason it seems to us interesting sharing fresh seasonal glimpses that is not possible to imagine just watching the pictures on the website.
Talking about this…any suggestion to improve our job? The pictures with a darker background, lights and shades extending the garments movement, slow down the catalogue exploration or instead allow to understand with more likelihood the wearability of jackets, dresses, sweaters, etc?…
Details from the main shop window:
Y’s Yohji Yamamoto embroidered satin evening dress with small squares in polyester and rayon opened on the back, – strapless, inner bodice, central zip back closure, one high side buttons, two side slits.
Classic unisex ‘Final Home’ raincoat in nylon canvas, neck with zip and hood, vertical zips for the padded ‘cushions’ (it becomes a winter down jacket) on the front, on the back and along the arms, zip closure with double slide and press studs.
Trippen boot in cowhide leather and rubber sole, rounded tip, upper part with half-closed stripes on the front, zip closure on the ankle back.
Small shop windows:
Shopper Bao Bao Issey Miyake composta di placchette triangolari di pvc opaco replicate con calcoli origami su base in rete e tela di poliestere, doppi manici regolabili, una grande tasca interna con zip, l 34 cm x h 34 cm;
Trippen boot in cowhide leather and rubber sole, rounded tip, upper part with half-closed stripes on the front, zip closure on the ankle back.
Vertical shop window:
Vivienne Westwood Red Label two pieces dress in linen cotton canvas with diagonal checks pattern: ¾ sleeve top, curled rounded neck with drawstring, closure with fabric-covered small buttons; flared skirt, darts on the back at the hip, zip and button side closure.
Final Home polyester net blouson with zip, neck with hood, two vertical small pocket with zip, zip closure, zips along the arms and the shoulder transforming the blouson in a cape when open.
Calf-length Comme des Garçons quilted skirt in printed polyester with ‘red passion’ spots and cotton lining, curled at the waist, waist and elastic band at the belt, wide line.
Pleats Please Issey Miyake polyester vertical pleating dress doubled along the hips with triangular inlays in contrasting colour, sleeveless, V neck, flared line.
Pleats Please Issey Miyake polyester vertical pleating short jacket, straight neck, open on the front, no buttons, ¾ bat sleeve, wearable upside/down.
Trippen flat shoe in flatted cowhide leather, essential line with inner edge higher on a side, two separated rubber shells sole.
Comme des Garçions open-work waistcoat top in glossy polyurethane on the outside and polyester on the inside, crew-neck, zip side closure, straight fit, raw cut edging.
Comme des Garçons calf-length skirt with a cotton base with ‘red passion’ printed spots doubled with printed tulle with the same pattern, slightly curled, zip closure, wide line.
Yohji Yamamoto wide trousers jumpsuit in wool gabardine with rhinestone and silk braces with metallic stitched sequins, central zip closure on the front, 2 vertical welt pockets on the breast, 2 on the side and 2 on the back with flaps, side vertical buttons.
HaaT calf-length dress in high twist squared linen, boat-neck, half sleeve, panel to be buttoned on the side with buttons, back central zip, asymmetric.
Daniela Gregis ‘rectangle calf-length dress, one side in watercolour printed effect linen canvas and one in linen gauze, boat neck, flared sleeve stitched on the inside, side small buttons, same fabric belt, ‘Gregis’ hole, reversible front/back, it becomes a shawl.
Daniela Gregis waterproof silk faille overcoat with spots pattern, two patch pockets, ‘Gregis’ holes on the sides.
Reinhard Plank bonnet style hat in loom operated straw hat, narrow rolled up at the edges brim forming a rose on the side.
Boboutic calf-length skirt in stocking stitched cotton, stainless-steel and viscose with in movement ring deformable threads, elastic band at the belt in contrasting colour, side welt pockets, slip.
Bao Bao Issey Miyake hold-everything purse made by PVC triangular plates repeated trough an origami calculation on a polyester base, zip closure, l 24 cm x h 12 cm.
Bao Bao Issey Miyake small rectangular shoulder bag made by platinum metallic PVC triangular plates repeated trough an origami calculation on a polyester base, small metallic detachable shoulder belt, smooth base with 2 metallic plates, l 13,5 cm x h 15,5 cm.
Photography by Sari Milan.
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