http://www.thenewblack.com/portraits/anrealage-fw-15-pfw/
The name Kunihiko Morinaga, 1980 class, hides itself behind a brand, Anrealage, that with that privative suffix at the beginning, an, denies two different meanings: reality and time. An important hint, that helps to understand the experimental will of the very young designer:
- nothing is what appears
-
every seasonal tendency doesn’t fall within the primal interests of the collection proposed.
In fact we are inside the Japanese school, where the wish to affect and to stand out from a conceptual point of view prevails on the more simply broad consensus marketing phenomenons.
With Light collection Morinaga makes his debut in Paris with a strong experimental collection, put together around the engineering exercise of the photo-sensibility. Every garment translates a possible light manifestation. Actually photo-sensible outfits come out on the runway that, on the base of the solicitation they were subjected, modify their chromatic aspect and all the collection conducts the radiant light theme. The formal circles on the pea coats and on the coats emphasize the idea of the spot light. A luminous circle testifies extremely sophisticated treatments in the colour distribution, an absorption of the light tones more complex to tell than any print realized until now.
Anrealage short trench in wool cloth with light circle imprinted at the centre, double-breasted with flaps and lapels emerging from the fabric, gorget patches on the shoulders, back yoke, two vertical welt pockets, two welt inner pockets.
Milano Parigi man trousers in wool flannel,darts on the front, belt loops, welt vertical pockets, zip and button closure, elastic band at the beck of the belt, soft line tighter at the calf.
‘Classic Trippen’ ankle boot in oiled suede cowhide leather with strings and small hooks, removable cork insole, rubber sole.
Anrealage short trench in wool cloth with light circle imprinted at the centre, double-breasted with flaps and lapels emerging from the fabric, gorget patches on the shoulders, back yoke, two vertical welt pockets, two welt inner pockets.
Milano Parigi man trousers in wool flannel,darts on the front, belt loops, welt vertical pockets, zip and button closure, elastic band at the beck of the belt, soft line tighter at the calf.
Anrealage wool cloth knee-length pea coat with central chevron imprinted light circle, single-breasted, flaps and lapels emerging from the fabric, shoulder patches, three buttons, two welt pockets, two inner pockets.
Milano Parigi man trousers in wool flannel,darts on the front, belt loops, welt vertical pockets, zip and button closure, elastic band at the beck of the belt, soft line tighter at the calf.
‘Classic Trippen’ ankle boot in oiled suede cowhide leather with strings and small hooks, removable cork insole, rubber sole.
Anrealage wool cloth knee-length pea coat with central chevron imprinted light circle, single-breasted, flaps and lapels emerging from the fabric, shoulder patches, three buttons, two welt pockets, two inner pockets.
Anrealage calf-length skirt in black and white polyester and rayon graffito on a velvet effect base, side and bottom flounces, zip and hook side closure.
The radiant light theme is also on the knitwear, developed around a single fabric thread that, in the weft, alternates the with the shade represented by the black colour.
Anrealage circular cape in heavy knitted wool, aplaca and acrylic with a central light circle made by a single fabric thread, turtle-neck.
Y’s Yohji Yamamoto tight leg jeans trousers in creased cotton canvas, two welt vertical pockets, three patch pockets on the back with and two overlapped, belt loops, zip and button closure.
Anrealage long circular cardigan in bouclé knitted wool, alpaca and acrylic with a light circle in weft, automatic buttons closure, two welt pockets, large ribbed bands on the cuffs.
Y’s Yohji Yamamoto tight leg jeans trousers in creased cotton canvas, two welt vertical pockets, three patch pockets on the back with and two overlapped, belt loops, zip and button closure.
Or moreover, what could appear at first glance an elementary printed velvet, reveals with the movement its textile three-dimensionality: fibre, weft graphite traces on the contrasting colour, compressed in realizing a familiar textile evocation made by lights and shades never seen before, something that has absolutely to be observed live because there is no description able to give back effectively the final result.
Anrealage long jacket in black and white polyester and rayon graffito on a velvet effect base, single-breasted with lapels, button closure, two patch pockets, flounces on the sides and at the bottom, welt small breast pocket.
Milano Parigi man trousers in wool flannel,darts on the front, belt loops, welt vertical pockets, zip and button closure, elastic band at the beck of the belt, soft line tighter at the calf.
‘Classic Trippen’ ankle boot in oiled suede cowhide leather with strings and small hooks, removable cork insole, rubber sole.
Also in the garments with an aspect less bold and experimental, in reality thermic properties or decorative elements are very well hidden and they allow not only to enjoy the light portability of coats and pea coats, but also to modify their aspects, especially the length, at your own convenience.
Anrealage short blouson in mosaic patchwork of knitted cotton with different black and grey shades, iron wire core on the edges, zip closure, hood, two flap and button vertical pockets, buttons on the cuffs, vertical welt inner pocket.
Y’s Yohji Yamamoto tight leg jeans trousers in creased cotton canvas, two welt vertical pockets, three patch pockets on the back with and two overlapped, belt loops, zip and button closure.
Anrealage coat with hood in tone on tone cotton and rayon, zip and frogs closure, iron wire core along the edges, two patch pockets, draping, cuffs with buttons, inner vertical welt pocket.
Milano Parigi man trousers in wool flannel,darts on the front, belt loops, welt vertical pockets, zip and button closure, elastic band at the beck of the belt, soft line tighter at the calf.
‘Classic Trippen’ ankle boot in oiled suede cowhide leather with strings and small hooks, removable cork insole, rubber sole.
A great respect new entry, Anrealage has to be observed and waited with the enthusiasm of the most curious youth towards every possible, revolutionary formal and textile manipulation.
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