Daniela Gregis…S/S 2013
Mentaelimone (Mintandlemon) – written as one word – is the name of the Spring/Summer 2013 collection by Daniela Gregis. It calls attention to the goods that the earth has to offer and provides a clue as to where the designer from Bergamo is directing her gaze.
The vaguely rural spirit conjured up in her previous creations came through directly from the scenic setting inside the Oratory of the Passion at the Basilica of Sant’Ambrogio in Milan. Here, the pots of herbs, glass bottles for collecting water and depictions of farmers immersed in the ascetic calm of gardening with wheelbarrows and various tools made for an intimate and welcoming atmosphere – in stark contrast to the aggressive pace of other walkways – to accompany the debut of the familiarly voluminous clothing in that most desirable of materials for the summer season – linen.
The fabrics seem to have been deliberately mistreated and then mended, their folds and cuts bearing the marks of expert craftsmanship. Gregis’ staff certainly must know how to knit and crochet, or weave baskets and hair, which require deft hand movements and a trained eye to follow asymmetrical patterns and explore solutions that go beyond what has already been done before; truly the sure sign of an innovative collection.
This expertise is nourished by comparisons with the likes of Rei Kawakubo of Comme des Garçons, as well as through extensive research from travel and contacts that have permitted, as an exclusive client of the renowned Liberty of London, magnificent participation in the summer collection of dresses and jackets.
The Gregis phenomenon continues to grow, cultivating, along with those landscapes sketched in natural dyes, seasonal wear with a very human and poetic quality.
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