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2014 Yearly archive

In the middle of spring and with the catalogue almost complete, we can finally give life to some suggestions with the colours and the movements of the real life. Yes, because it is inside the most authentic world that we work and spend our time, inside very concrete boundaries, often shaped by necessity and objective urgencies, or more simply, quotidian. A warning, this is not a top model show but simple experiments tested on ourselves.

 

Also an occasion to introduce you our Francesca, young IVO MILAN new entry, a precious backing for our communications and the online store replies…

 

So we tried new matching, putting together different ideas, colours and fibres. In a new and interesting dialogue between them, the silhouettes of our aficionados, Yohji Yamamoto, Junya Watanabe, Rick Owens, Daniela Gregis, get in touch with the new experimentations of the Korean brand Forme d’Expression, expressive talent produced in Italy, and draw themselves alongside the eclectic British tailoring of Vivienne Westwood, the great new entry of this spring/summer with the Gold and the Red Label. The pictures here below can guide you and maybe inspire you in the discovery of the fabrics, the cuts, the volumes you will find in the shop in the next months. Enjoy it!

 

Forme d'expression, Rick Owens, Trippen, Spring/Summer 2014

Forme d'expression, Rick Owens, Trippen, Spring/Summer 2014

Forme d'expression, Rick Owens, Trippen, Spring/Summer 2014

Forme d’expression top shirt in chambray iridescent cotton gauze, sleeveless, wide and draped neck, draped around the waist, fitted at the waist line, wider and symmetric bottom.

Forme d’expression longuette skirt in linen with Pollock type “scribble” print, bell shape, longer on the sides, wallet closure emphasised with a button, side pockets.

Rick Owens wool etamine jacket with shawl jacket with draped silk lapels, single breasted, single button closure, slightly fitted at the waist, two small pockets on the front, two slits on the back, inside pockets, lined.

Trippen boot in cowhide leather and rubber sole, vamp with stripes, zip closure on the back of the ankle.

 

Vivienne Westwood Red Label, Trippen, Spring/Summer 2014

Vivienne Westwood Red Label, Trippen, Spring/Summer 2014

Vivienne Westwood Red Label, Trippen, Spring/Summer 2014

Vivienne Westwood Red Label, Trippen, Spring/Summer 2014

Vivienne Westwood – Red Label crêpe de chine heart print short shirt , short sleeves adjustable with a small button on the shoulder, thin line, hole on the front between the first and the second button, rounded bottom.

Vivienne Westwood – Red Label basketweaved linen and viscose high waist trousers, soft line with darts, equipped with brace/belt, with loops, button and zip closure, two side welt pockets, a small diagonal pocket with button on the back, roll up bottom. 

Trippen high clog with cowhide leather bands and enamelled wood sole covered with non-slip rubber, leather band with velcro closure, heel height 7,5 cm.

Junya Watanabe, La Molla, Spring/Summer 2014Junya Watanabe, La Molla, Spring/Summer 2014Junya Watanabe, La Molla, Spring/Summer 2014

Junya Watanabe, La Molla, Spring/Summer 2014

Junya Watanabe cotton jersey top, boat neck, sleeveless, close-fitting line, curled with a spiral movement.

Junya Watanabe leatherette long skirt with disassembled and re-sewn jeans application in printed “etno navaho” denim, flared and asymmetric line, fringed bottom.

La Molla necklace in stainless steel.

Daniela Gregis, Yohji Yamamoto, Rosa Mosa, Spring/Summer 2014

Daniela Gregis, Yohji Yamamoto, Rosa Mosa, Spring/Summer 2014

Daniela Gregis, Yohji Yamamoto, Rosa Mosa, Spring/Summer 2014

Daniela Gregis, Yohji Yamamoto, Rosa Mosa, Spring/Summer 2014

Daniela Gregis wide fit shirt in silk crepe de chine, boat neckline, elbow length sleeves with internal split, 2 internal side pockets, doubled over and raw cut profiles, 2 small side splits on the hem.

Daniela Gregis jacket in embossed cotton with two-colour vertical stripes, in white and vanilla, crew-neck, slightly double breasted, closure with button-up collar, a side pocket sewn onto the hem, splits on the sleeve hem, straight fit.

Yohji Yamamoto garçon style trousers in light slashed poplin cotton, overturned belt, soft line with darts, belt loops, buttons and zip closure, two diagonal side pockets, two small pockets with buttons on the back.

Rosa Mosa cotton canvas pois print and leather sneakers with rubber sole.

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Issey Miyake Spring/Summer 2014

He just turned seventy-six years old and he spent forty of them doing what he loves the most, the designer. And not a fashion designer but “simply” a designer as Issey Miyake prefers to be defined. During his long career he actually designed everything, from bicycles to exhibition spaces, design means life to him and designing involves create the time we are living.

Issey Miyake Spring/Summer 2014

So dresses are for Miyake another tool to experience, to express himself, to have fun and bring joy. Sensibility, curiosity and an undoubted ingeniousness brought him to the identification of techniques and materials so innovative that till now nobody has tried to emulate or imitate them. At the beginning of the 90’s with the launch of the Pleats Please line, Miyake brought his although simplified creations to a wider public. Similar to this operation, a new experiment is launched ten years later: Cauliflower, where the fabric surface recalls the cauliflower texture. Here ingeniousness solves the hoary problem of the sizes. A piece of clothing includes three of them and the whole collection is one size.

Issey Miyake Spring/Summer 2014

In the Issey Miyake Spring-Summer 2014 collection, designed by young Yoshiyuki Miyamae, the airy fabrics and the pleats turn light into something wearable. From the brighter white to the sunset-like dark red, passing by the intense blue of the sky during day-time, strips of rainbow parade on the catwalk.

Issey Miyake Spring/Summer 2014

The fabric experimentation dare the force of gravity with the diagonally or even radially pleating, producing in the dress unexpected drapes. The polyester fabric, usually a little bit shiny to substitute silk, becomes dull and looks like cotton. Or the warp of a light plain knitted fabric becomes pleated cloth without interruption. In this atmosphere of continuous inventions the music as well is not left to chance.

Issey Miyake Sprin/Summer 2014

The Japanese musician Ei Wada transformed television screens into percussions, using the light and the electrostatic emitted to create the sound, composing an innovative soundtrack, absolutely in line with the spirit of this brand: there is no nostalgia or reference to the past, the look is always turned towards the future, to find solutions to new challenges and new technologies to realize them.

Ei Wada Issey Miyake

 

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Marisa e Adriana, IVO MILAN

Have you ever thought about communicating through what you wear?

Silvia, a very fond client of IVO MILAN, talk about this in a text she sent us after choosing with great determination the dress that should represent her during the thesis defence.

Don’t be scared of the amount of words… If you are interested take your time to read it!

What is a dress?

 

It is something that we choose to place between us and the world every morning.

 

The dress is a boundary, in other words a line which separate two territories and put them together at the same time: it is the point where two regions meet, a place where contacts happen, where you learn new information, new concepts and new visions, a means of encounter between us and the world which is made of other people.

 

So the dress is not just a passing fancy but it is a powerful means of communication that we use daily and without a break, at the same level of the voice, the glances and the body movements. A means that represent us and on which tissue communicative meeting and clash take place going beyond the surface, building stories and dialogues on different visions of the world.

The dress becomes a means to tell, to receive, to declare, to listen.

In brief it is an extraordinary means of connection.


Vivienne Westwood outfit 2014

And for all these reasons a dress became part of my degree thesis: it was an irreplaceable fellow able to help me in telling my efforts, my joy and the discoveries of my studying.

 

My degree dress had the task of represent myself in the staging of the last act of my growing path (as a student but also as a person), and I entrusted it of the representation of my position towards what I asserted in the graduation thesis, dedicated to the internal companies communication, intended as a communicative exchange inside the company borders, translated then into communication towards the world through the production of documents, such as balances, messengers of a global organization identity. Exactly in the same way my dress became a witness of my humanity, of my ironic gaze towards the world and also of some specific meanings of my paper about the mutual relation and listening.

Considering how it came so naturally to me looking for a dress that I could feel truly mine (or rather that was able to tell me what I wanted to say to the others), I thought that the dress was a toy to me, an encounter invitation.

Issey Miyake Spring/Summer 2014

I regard the dress as a boundary where I invite the others to play, where any invention or good idea become a challenge and an invitation to connect, an open dialogue, a mutual discovery desire, even through a “fabric statement” that could seem weird or provocative towards the “common feeling”.

While I was realizing this I thought that some people could be not interested in playing and they could choose the “silence of the dress”, hiding themselves from the others, eluding the connection and wearing an accepted idea. Maybe these people try to be reassured because a “silent” (or mute) dress doesn’t open any dialogue, it limit itself to assert concepts and existences that carry out themselves following codified and generally accepted rules and so, by definition, not under discussion. That “sewn silence” turn the dress boundary into a frontier, or rather into a place with specific limits which represent a closure towards what is beyond it.


Comme des Garçons shoes Spring-Summer 2014

Pleats Please Spring/Summer 2014

I thought that maybe the comparison fear could bring to the silent dress.

Yohji Yamamoto Spring-Summer 2014

On the contrary, the day of the thesis defence I wanted a dress that would contribute to it, representing the meanings of the relation, intended in its extended sense, becoming the symbol itself of some of the most diverting concepts of my paper.

Issey Miyake outfit Spring/Summer 2014
This dress take me to the conquering of my degree that I was yearning for since a long time and I’m grateful to it because it testified me better than I could ever be able to do with my own words.

 

Silvia Parolin, ladysyla@gmail.com

 

 

 

 

 

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Comme des Garçons dress Spring/Summer 2014

The first arrivals (Comme des Garçons, Junya Watanabe, Vivienne Westwood, Yohji Yamamoto, for example) for the next spring/summer season are starting to appear in store,

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