We have already had the opportunity to meet Shu Moriyama before, and those who visited our store in Padua in the last years could know his work, his textile and styling know-how originating from his experience at the unique ateliers of Yohji Yamamoto, whom he cooperated with before launching his own collection, under his own name.

As a generous participant in this transitioning moment in our working experience, Shu shows us his S/S 2021 suggestions.

With a typical Japanese approach, the horizon from which he gets his own inspiration is far away from the influences of western fashion, more focused on commercial inputs and linked to seasonal trends bringing to fast obsolescence. Shu’s view melts with trees, flowers and fruits, in an effort of abstraction which gives origin to the pleats of his comfortable crinkled fabrics, with small dots recalling petals, some times tone on tone, some others more showy.

The wide spaces of Normandy, his land of adoption, are the background where his delicate clothes take form, designed with hidden elegance, more to put people at ease than to surprise in an impressive way. Poetry is not showed off, but it’s outlined with soft tones in fabric shades, in the embrace of shawl collars, in drop sleeves usually narrower at the bottom, in the chance of wearing many coats upside down, changing the final look.

Dresses, jackets, coats, skirts, and trousers, are all designed with comfort and pragmatism in mind, thanks to the elasticity of a polyester that keeps the crinkled effect in time and warrants excellent fit performance, and, more simply, to very easy maintenance, since they can be washed in washing machine with no ironing.

An alternative – less explicit and identifiable – to the more popular plated fabric of Issey Miyake, with a more reserved and calm accent, the one of Shu Moriyama, a visionary artisan to the utmost extremes for France and fashion.

Find the collection on our website!

Many thanks to Shu Moriyama for pictures and drawings and to Sari for the photograph shooting.

This self-taught well-read designer challenges herself collection after collection to create something new, radical, absolutely fresh. In this way her “fashion” becomes a tool for the mind liberation, an unceasing questioning and pushing behind the faint boundary between art and fashion, an incessant game of tensions and research, of vibrations, references and provocations.

For the Spring-Summer 2014 Rei Kawakubo declares that the only way to make something different is to start with the intention to not design clothes. Actually on the catwalk moving sculptures, that not even meet anymore the logics of functionality, wearability and aesthetic harmony, succeed one another. The black colour leit-motif interrupted by shocking pink splashes, together with the brief musical themes, creates an uninterrupted tension bringing the spectator to ask himself: -what she could do more than this?-.

As a dodecaphonic musical language or a jazz piece with a sonority unpleasant at the first listening, these shapes are an invitation to the silence, an invitation to go past the well-known in order to open the mind and the spirit to new horizons and new perspectives. In other word, to grow up.

Discover the Spring/Summer 2014 collection on IVO MILAN!