With summer sales still pacing ahead and the first arrivals of the Fall/Winter 2016-2017, a fresh look to our current catalogue is an opportunity to bring summer back into the limelight. Heatwaves and imminent holidays demand light weights and outfits.

Together with Jennicka, Sari’s shots around our shop in Padova will take you on a swift tour of our Summer deals…

Y’s Yohji Yamamoto two pieces wide dress: wide t-shirt in cotton jersey, short sleeve, wide V neck, small buttons at the bottom to be closed in holes of the trousers, short sarouel in polyester and polyurethane Prince of Wales, with belt and detachable belt pouch, two welt vertical side pockets, t-shirt and trousers are detachable

Sha double sinamay hat with wider brim at sides and smaller at rear, small cotton ribbon trim at the edge

Trippen (SPIDER) flat shoe in soft cowhide leather with laces and side stripes, open on upper part, laces closure, leather stripes coming out from the sides suggesting a ‘spider’ design, two separated shells rubber sole

Junya Watanabe calf-length dress in polyester georgette with a zebra-stripes print, flared sleeve, wide rounded neck with a shawl effect on a second dress, back central slit, straight line

Comme des Garçons-Comme des Garçons wide shirt in cotton poplin, cut with stitching and pleating ‘impero’ style, rounded neck, strings closure on the front, short sleeve, hip-length, wearable also as an open jacket

Comme des Garçons-Comme des Garçons long and wide pleated skirt in washed linen canvas and printed with bi-colour polka-dots, elastic and waist band at the belt, side vertical welt pockets

Un-Namable over-fitting t-shirt in iridescent cotton jersey, wide crew-neck, circle line, flared asymmetric bat sleeve with raw cut edges, central vertical stitching on the front and the back

Un-Namable soft trousers in cotton crêpe with narrow vertical pleats, diagonal small panel on the front, elastic at the belt, a side diagonal small pocket

Daniela Gregis big shopper bag in hand-knitted palm leaves wrapped in a cotton vichy canvas with knots going through four holes in the upper part becoming a double handle, the piece of cloth could be worn as a shawl, h cm 30 x l cm 32 x d cm 20

Trippen (IBIZA) flip flop sandal in soft elk leather and cowhide leather parts in contrasting colours, wide and asymmetric band wrapping a foot side, Velcro closure on the front, open on the back, classic rubber rounded sole

Un-namable calf-length doubled dress in treated cotton muslin and with a cloud effect printing, wide crew-neck, sleeveless, diagonal stitching at the waist, wide bottom with side stitching and selvage at the hem, raw cut edges, wide and asymmetric line

Yesey hat straw

Trippen (HOREN) flip flop sandal in soft cowhide leather along the edges with open-toe, separated flip flop ring, shoe laces twist along the foot upper part to be tied around the ankle, classic rounded rubber sole

Maybe not everyone knows that before coming out with the line that now bears his full name, Yohji Yamamoto made his debut in 1972 with the Y’s. A possessive case strongly indicative of the paternity and affection feelings of the well-known Japanese designer towards his work and his young performance.

Y’s, in the true sense of ‘it belongs to Yohji’, could not then be considered today a second line, but instead an everyday alternative of the bolder stylistic codes reserved to the runway collections.

It is not a rare event that, in the wide Paris showroom in Rue Saint Martin, we find us facing the spoiler of choice between a fèmme piece or its Y’s similar, reflecting from time to time if privilege a more abstract and mature feminine interpretation or a more immature and practical one.

The final decision is usually commit to the more precise correspondence between shape, colour and composition, with the world evoked by the garment in question.

In the Y’s too, Yohji doesn’t scrimp on the involvement of distant artisans, last repositories of the rich Japanese textile heritage, and with extraordinary confidence and discretion leads these unmissable knowledges in refining the everyday life. Linen and cotton patchworks, gussets kept together by laborious stitchings, polka-dots spread on complex wideness, doubled fabrics, barely sketched and overlapped pleats, ad hoc placed darts, precise distribution of the empties and the voids, in a continuos, careful game around the details, the small particular, in order to confuse the position of dresses, jackets and knitwear, in two opposing worlds: one classic and conventional and the other more unpredictable and personal.

The effect is a displacement typical of Yohji Yamamoto’s trait, always in conscious and affected balance between the austerity and the unconventional.

Looking closely at a garment of the the so-called Japanese school great master Yohji Yamamoto is not only a rare occasion, but the audience reaction is always the same too: silence and an expression that instantly changes the face, as if to say very simply: ‘Here we are behind’. Behind fashion, behind the seasonal trends, behind what one could usually see, behind the widespread boredom of making clothes with approximation.

In increasingly critical times for the clothing field, where more and more less space is left to the know-how, where the production rhythms are more and more compromised by the minimizing of the costs and especially by the increasing of the manufacturing companies profit margins, having the chance to intercept a Yohji Yamamoto’s work is like finding relief in the middle of the most hazardous desert. Because the high quality tailoring, applied to accessible models and with an eloquent design, could excite on the same level of every other noble artistic expression. And Yohji, more than ever, is a skilled weavers of ancient knowledges and contemporary solicitations, gained in metropolitan contexts with an high concentration of relationships, contaminations and syncretism.

For the Spring/Summer 2016 we have a personal interpretation of an Enlightenment atmospheres, in the bustiers composed by articulated asymmetries on the wider volumes of skirt and trousers, emphasized by the sumptuous scenario of the Hotel de Ville in Paris, selected for the runway show.

But the historical citation mixes and confuses itself with more contemporary and urban silhouette, evoked with determination by the lengths and the details of the overcoats, in the calculated disorder of certain dresses and tops

and especially in the explicit collaboration with the very young painter Yuuka Asakura (discover her instagram and twitter profiles) called to paint her abstract works on the already very precious Japanese cottons.

The ubiquitous black colour gets dirty with pictorial signs with a charming chromatic involvement, inviting the audience to observe with calm and attention, to stop by, discovering also the less showy gestures in fibres that reveal themselves in their curate and surprising three-dimensionality.

In opposition to the more pressing and emerging requests of time and space compression, Yohji Yamamoto with the most discreet savoir faire, remembers us that the beauty could be still part of our stories, we just need to never stop seeking it.

The Spring/Summer Yohji Yamamoto collection is on www.ivomilan.com

Top 132 5. Issey Miyake spring/summer 2016.

Despite the slow, endless moving forward of the winter, in the shop the season sales introduce and overlap the joyful arrival of the next Spring/Summer. An impressive Trippen delivery makes us guess the incoming chromatic presences and, for the first time in Europe, the 132 5. Issey Miyake origami lines, anticipates the most clever developments of the extraordinary Japanese Maison!

Trippen shoes spring/summer 2016 lined up ready to be photigraphed.

Top 132 5. Issey Miyake spring/summer 2016.

1 One-dimensional

3 Three-dimensional

2 Shape

5 Body

But also Daniela Gregis, Comme des Garçons, Junya Watanabe are waiting for their turn of being shot and added to our online catalogue…

Junya Watanabe spring/summer 2016

The well-curated Daniela Gregis packaging.

Hand-woven Daniela Gregis bag in wicker and vichy spring/summer 2016.

The first arrivals of Comme des Garçons, Daniela Gregis, Junya Watanabe and 1 3 2 5.Issey Miyake waiting to be photographed  for our online catalogue.

And after these fleeting, as confused, new arrivals previews, the rigid temperatures allow us to still dwell upon the many winter possibilities… Outfits provided by the knowledge of months of experimentations, revelations and fittings with the shop customers. Often unique pieces, of impossible to find design, being timeless they are combinable with garments from the past winters, a strategic and gratifying finishing to our refined wardrobes.

Vivienne Westwood Red Label long and heavy sweater in malfilè wool, cotton, polyamide and acrylic with big contrasting triangles, wide crew-neck.

Vivienne Westwood Anglomania short pants-style miniskirt in polyester and elastane canvas with  a worn-out velvet effect printing, inner buttons closure, outer buttons diagonal closure, 2 side pockets, central back slit.

Vivienne Westwood Anglomania viscose and spandex leggings with Union Jack printing.

Vivienne Westwood Mantero big scarf in acrylic and wool big thread loom weft with squares pattern, fringes along the edges, l 200 cm x h 55 cm.

Trippen ankle boot in soft suede cowhide leather slightly creased on the instep, side zip closure, new ‘spot’ sole with two rubber blocks and non-slip base made on iron stamp.

Y’s Yohji Yamamoto wide coat in loom worked wollen multicolour cloth, single-breasted, half-closed crew-neck, frayed edges, two diagonal vertical pockets, press buttons closure.

Y’s Yohji Yamamoto long, wide and asymmetric sweater in knitted wool with a light bouclé effect, turtle-neck with V opening on the front, horizontal ribbing on the breast and on the shoulder, diagonal point at the bottom, side stitching, one side slit, asymmetric line.

Y’s Yohji Yamamoto spencer jacket in wool gabardine with cuff and hem bands, single-breasted with lapels, two vertical welt pockets.

Y’s Yohji Yamamoto wide, large and asymmetric divided skirt in light pale multicolour wool canvas, with brace, one vertical welt pockets, zip and drawstring side closure.

Yohji Yamamoto wide stole in knitted wool and nylon worked with stitched ribbed fringes, fringes at the far ends, l 216 cm x h 70 cm.

Trippen ankle-boot in cowhide leather with new ‘spot’ sole with two rubber blocks and non-slipper base made on iron stamps, vertical elastic bands from the sole to the ankle.

Yohji Yamamoto short cardigan in light knitted wool, polyamide and viscose with abstract-geometrical texture, zip closure, drop-shaped neck, wider on the side, hem band, wide kimono sleeve.

Yohji Yamamoto short jersey and gabardine wool dress, tight-fitting t-shirt bodice with wide draped fabric sewn at the neck and adjustable, long sleeve.

Yohji Yamamoto classic twill trousers printed with artist Yasuto Sasada drawings, tight at the bottom, 2 front diagonal pockets and 2 welt pockets with small button on the back, zip and button closure, belt loops and inserted strap with buckle, lined.

Trippen ankle boot in soft suede cowhide leather slightly creased on the instep, side zip closure, new ‘spot’ sole with two rubber blocks and non-slip base made on iron stamp.

Rick Owens sculpture padded jacket longer on the sides in polyamide with an horizontal pleating processing, geometrical stitching on the front, single-breasted with wide triangular lapels, three snaps buttons closure.

Issey Miyake wool and polyurethane crêpe stretch trousers with contrasting colour belt, two diagonal pockets, two welt pockets on the back, diagonal panel stitched on the front, two buttons and zip side closure, soft line.

Trippen ankle-boot in washed and treated cowhide leather with three blocks heel, side zip closure, wide sole, instep upper part higher on the back.

Junya Watanabe mohair sweater with ribbed pyramid origami in wool and polyester along the sleeves and the shoulders, crew-neck, band on the cuffs, neck and at the bottom.

Junya Watanabe knee-length wide full skirt with rounded large pleats in wool flannel, side closure with zip and hook.

Shu Moriyama short and wide jacket in embossed wool canvas with patterns in two different colours, crew-neck, single-breasted with press buttons.

Andrea Cortella rew-neck sweater in stitched Cashwool extra fine Merino wool with pyramid shaped points on the front, knitted band at the bottom, on the cuffs and on the neck, straight line.

Issey Miyake skirt in steam stretch pleated bicolour polyester and polyurethane with a narrow crystal effect, elastic band at the belt, wide and flared line, two welt pockets, reversible and wearable as a cape.

‘Classic Trippen’ ankle boot in oiled suede cowhide leather with strings and small hooks, removable cork insole, rubber sole.

Issey Miyake pleated garments.

Junya Watanabe and Comme des Garçons garments.

Gudrun & Gudrun knitwear.

Gudrun & Gudrun open jacket style cardigan in heavy knitted alpaca, dropped stitching working on the shoulder and along the sleeve.

Y’s Yohji Yamamoto long divided skirt in cotton canvas with vertical stitched pleats, 2 diagonal side welt pockets, zip and button closure.

Vivienne Westwood Mantero big scarf in acrylic and wool big thread loom weft with squares pattern, fringes along the edges, l 200 cm x h 55 cm.

Trippen ankle boot in drummed cowhide leather and traditional Japanese sole, parallel stratifications effect on the upper instep, zip closure, traditional rubber Japanese sole.

Forme D’Expression wide pea coat in damask wool cloth with checks, shawl neck, shorter on the back, points on the front, pointed bottom, closure with button on the neck or on the side.

Boboutic short sweater in knitted extra fine wool, polyamide and yak, with irregular weft thread in a different colour at the bottom and on the sleeves, crew-neck with band, band on the cuffs and at the hem, soft line.

Forme D’Expression wool jersey trousers with waistband and knee-length doubled leg, soft line, two side welt pockets and one patch pocket on the back.

Forme D’Expression high closed neck warmer in doubled knitted soft wool and cashmere in two different colours inside-outside, reversible.

Kate Sheridan rectangular backpack in waterproof British Millerain with leather adjustable shoulder straps, flap and adjustable leather ribbon closure, internal open pockets and internal zip pocket, h 43 cm x l 38 cm.

Daniela Gregis egg-shaped handmade sweater in straight stitched mohair and silk, wide crew-neck, long sleeve, neck, hem and cuffs with ribbed edge.

Daniela Gregis calf-length skirt in double wool crêpe with dark ‘storm’ printing, cut out hem, waistband at the belt, curled at the waist.

Trippen ankle boot in treated and washed cowhide leather, winglet with a pleat effect on the side, turn-up at the ankle, inner zip closure, two shell rubber sole.

Reinhard Plank medium-brimmed bowler hat in waxed and varnished lapin felt with a ‘rock’ effect.

Photography by Sari Milan.

It has been a while since we not coming back to the space/workshop that contains every our activity: online catalogue composition, shop windows, communications, presentations and everything in general gives life to the shop. In fact everything takes place inside the boutique in Via Santa Lucia, in Padua city centre. Here the collections selected during the buying campaign find their placement, they are interpreted and put together in combinations possible only in context where different brands live together, as happens in our space. For this reason it seems to us interesting sharing fresh seasonal glimpses that is not possible to imagine just watching the pictures on the website.

Talking about this…any suggestion to improve our job? The pictures with a darker background, lights and shades extending the garments movement, slow down the catalogue exploration or instead allow to understand with more likelihood the wearability of jackets, dresses, sweaters, etc?…

Details from the main shop window:

Y’s Yohji Yamamoto embroidered satin evening dress with small squares in polyester and rayon opened on the back, – strapless, inner bodice, central zip back closure, one high side buttons, two side slits.

Classic unisex ‘Final Home’ raincoat in nylon canvas, neck with zip and hood, vertical zips for the padded ‘cushions’ (it becomes a winter down jacket) on the front, on the back and along the arms, zip closure with double slide and press studs.

Trippen boot in cowhide leather and rubber sole, rounded tip, upper part with half-closed stripes on the front, zip closure on the ankle back.

Small shop windows:

Shopper Bao Bao Issey Miyake composta di placchette triangolari di pvc opaco replicate con calcoli origami su base in rete e tela di poliestere, doppi manici regolabili, una grande tasca interna con zip, l 34 cm x h 34 cm;

Trippen boot in cowhide leather and rubber sole, rounded tip, upper part with half-closed stripes on the front, zip closure on the ankle back.

Vertical shop window:

Vivienne Westwood Red Label two pieces dress in linen cotton canvas with diagonal checks pattern: ¾ sleeve top, curled rounded neck with drawstring, closure with fabric-covered small buttons; flared skirt, darts on the back at the hip, zip and button side closure.

Final Home polyester net blouson with zip, neck with hood, two vertical small pocket with zip, zip closure, zips along the arms and the shoulder transforming the blouson in a cape when open.

Calf-length Comme des Garçons quilted skirt in printed polyester with ‘red passion’ spots and cotton lining, curled at the waist, waist and elastic band at the belt, wide line.

Pleats Please Issey Miyake polyester vertical pleating dress doubled along the hips with triangular inlays in contrasting colour, sleeveless, V neck, flared line.

Pleats Please Issey Miyake polyester vertical pleating short jacket, straight neck, open on the front, no buttons, ¾ bat sleeve, wearable upside/down.

Trippen flat shoe in flatted cowhide leather, essential line with inner edge higher on a side, two separated rubber shells sole.

Comme des Garçions open-work waistcoat top in glossy polyurethane on the outside and polyester on the inside, crew-neck, zip side closure, straight fit, raw cut edging.

Comme des Garçons calf-length skirt with a cotton base with ‘red passion’ printed spots doubled with printed tulle with the same pattern, slightly curled, zip closure, wide line.

Yohji Yamamoto wide trousers jumpsuit in wool gabardine with rhinestone and silk braces with metallic stitched sequins, central zip closure on the front, 2 vertical welt pockets on the breast, 2 on the side and 2 on the back with flaps, side vertical buttons.

HaaT calf-length dress in high twist squared linen, boat-neck, half sleeve, panel to be buttoned on the side with buttons, back central zip, asymmetric.

Daniela Gregis ‘rectangle calf-length dress, one side in watercolour printed effect linen canvas and one in linen gauze, boat neck, flared sleeve stitched on the inside, side small buttons, same fabric belt, ‘Gregis’ hole, reversible front/back, it becomes a shawl.

Daniela Gregis waterproof silk faille overcoat with spots pattern, two patch pockets, ‘Gregis’ holes on the sides.

Daniela Gregis bags.

Reinhard Plank bonnet style hat in loom operated straw hat, narrow rolled up at the edges brim forming a rose on the side.

Mae belts.

Boboutic calf-length skirt in stocking stitched cotton, stainless-steel and viscose with in movement ring deformable threads, elastic band at the belt in contrasting colour, side welt pockets, slip.

Bao Bao Issey Miyake hold-everything purse made by PVC triangular plates repeated trough an origami calculation on a polyester base, zip closure, l 24 cm x h 12 cm.

Bao Bao Issey Miyake small rectangular shoulder bag made by platinum metallic PVC triangular plates repeated trough an origami calculation on a polyester base, small metallic detachable shoulder belt, smooth base with 2 metallic plates, l 13,5 cm x h 15,5 cm.

Photography by Sari Milan.

The unfailing exercises around the black colour of the great Japanese master compose a Spring/Summer 2015 definitely less austere and formal than the previous editions.

Slimmer volumes, alternated with more bare widenesses, underline an explicit femininity, almost surprising for the Yohji Yamamoto’s strict formal tradition, interpreter of an intellectual decency that is hardly able to identify itself in manifest gender simplification. The emerging of a new sensuality, inside complex and nonconformist stylistic habits, hardly could tell itself or could be identify through predictable codes, as bareness and tight lines.

Yohji respects characters and feminine shapes with the poetic intensity of the silk, operated with ancient and laborious Ikat dyeings or embellished by metallic sequins on rhinestones anything but regular.

The textile virtuosities meets themselves also in less striking expressions, with mimetic effects that hide the Prince of Wales and give it back creased and faded on dark black tones, but also shaded and pictorial floral printing or on the devoré from which field of flowers surface. If the more noble traditional heritage intervenes in the choosing of the fabrics, it’s always in the lines constituent ability that the Yohji’s aesthetic knowledge recognize and complete itself: a strategic balance of void and height, with asymmetries placed along the more critical points of the feminine silhouette, allow even to the less regular figure to find out itself suddenly of a completely unexpected charm and beauty!

Yohji Yamamoto wide trousers jumpsuit in wool gabardine with rhinestone and silk braces with metallic stitched sequins, central zip closure on the front, 2 vertical welt pockets on the breast, 2 on the side and 2 on the back with flaps, side vertical buttons.

Trippen short, tight-fitting boot with cubic, Japanese-type sole, in light cowhide.

Yohji Yamamoto long jumpsuit dress in plain crêpe de chine and ‘ikat’ printing on the back, central wide-skirted pleating on the back, central zip closure on the front, 2 vertical pockets on the breast, 2 on the back with flaps, side vertical buttons.

Trippen short, tight-fitting boot with cubic, Japanese-type sole, in light cowhide.

Yohji Yamamoto silk crêpe de chine jacket with part in different plain colours and ‘ikat Laos’ printing, single-breasted, V neck, two buttons closure, one small flap pocket at the hip, one side hip-length and the one calf-length.

Y’s Yohji Yamamoto creased cotton etamine and viscose trousers, two diagonal pockets on the front and one small pocket with button on the back, belt loops, small band with side external zip at the bottom, straight line.

Trippen flat men style shoes, featuring round toe, a lace-up fastening and a cut away detail on the sides.

Yohji Yamamoto double-breasted jacket in cotton and linen gauze, revers, two vertical welt pocket with inner net.

Yohji Yamamoto wide sahrouel trousers in devoré chiffon with stylized flowers in rayon and silk, side waist band at the belt, one vertical welt pocket.

Trippen short, tight-fitting boot with cubic, Japanese-type sole, in light cowhide.

Yohji Yamamoto short blouson in Prince of Wales creased and shaded in wool and polyester, shirt neck, button closure, shoulder badges, side small belts at the hem, 2 flap pockets and button on the breast, interlaced strings at the cuffs.

Yohji Yamamoto long and asymmetric tencel skirt with floral printing, fabric appendixes at the hips, 1 side horizontal pocket, side zip closure, adjustable band with button at the belt, longer on one side.

Trippen short, tight-fitting boot with cubic, Japanese-type sole, in light cowhide.

Yohji Yamamoto plain crêpe de chine single-breasted jacket on a side and the other with ‘ikat’ printing, revers, an half longer, Japanese frogs closure, back movement at the hem with stitched small slits.

Yohji Yamamoto calf-length skirt in tencel etamine with a side shibori treatment in relief with a ‘bouquet’ effect, side zip closure, soft line draped on the side.

Trippen short, tight-fitting boot with cubic, Japanese-type sole, in light cowhide.

Yohji Yamamoto single-breasted viscose etamine jacket, cut revers with contrasting colour thread, stitched collar, ‘zen’ threads on the shoulders, 2 flap and button pockets, 1 central slit.

Yohji Yamamoto decorative suspender bra in silk with ikat pattern printing.

Yohji Yamamoto cigarette trousers in linen and viscose etamine, zip and button closure, 2 diagonal pockets on the front, 2 patch pockets on the back, belt with adjustable buttons.

Click here to see IVO MILAN at work at Y’s Yohji Yamamoto showroom in Paris.

The season sales could be boring, with the pedantic reappearance of garments already seen and maybe perceived, euphemistically, as leftover stock. But this is also the moment when the more relaxed rhythms allow us to go into and to share the vision of the choices still present in our shop.

In fact we are able finally to make available one of the film shot during the Paris Fashion Week, March of the next year, at Y’s Yohji Yamamoto showroom.

From the 1990′s, during the buying campaign, we got the habit to shot our selections. A supplementary work, which introduce itself in the complex activity of the seasonal buying, to start the comprehension of elaborate collections, often difficult, even for the mere fact of being very far and different from what the conventional channels usually show and advertise. This commitment, maybe not excellent from a ‘technical’ point of view, brings forward and allows to metabolize the garments that will be housed in the shop.

It’s a video heritage that not only will gradually compose our wide documentary archive, but could quietly insert itself in the present, to appreciate at their best garments, in many cases already part of the winter wardrobe of our customers, that are still available in our online catalogue and naturally at our shop in Padua.

Below, in sequence, the main characters, so to speak, the survivors of our video:

Y’s Yohji Yamamoto ‘Chanel’-like short jacket in carded polyester wool, acrylic and polyester, V neck, hooks closure, frayed cut raw edges, lined.

Y’s Yohji Yamamoto cotton poplin man shirt with sewn and laid on top panel staggered on a side on the breast, raw cut collar edges.

Y’s Yohji Yamamoto 5 pockets trousers in stretch cotton and polyurethane with side band in knitted wool, buttons and zip closure, belt loops, slim fit.

Y’s Yohji Yamamoto long sweater in plain knitted wool and rayon and wool parts, high neck in contrasting colour, a small patch expanding pocket with flap, soft fit, small band at the hem and on the cuffs.

Y’s Yohji Yamamoto 5 pockets trousers in wool gabardine with side band in knitted wool and polyurethane, zip and button closure, belt loops, slim fit.

Y’s Yohji Yamamoto big scarf in wool tartan with big polkadots print, fringes on the shorter sides, length 200 cm, height 72 cm.

Y’s Yohji Yamamoto cotton poplin man shirt with sewn and laid on top panel staggered on a side on the breast, raw cut collar edges.

Y’s Yohji Yamamoto 5 pockets trousers in stretch cotton and polyurethane with side band in knitted wool, buttons and zip closure, belt loops, slim fit.

Y’s Yohji Yamamoto dress in plain knitted wool with acrylic big ‘badly sewn’ polkadots, crew-neck, wide fitted at the waist line, bat three-quarter sleeves, two side pocket on the front, interesting to wear also with a belt.

Y’s Yohji Yamamoto 5 pockets trousers in wool gabardine with side band in knitted wool and polyurethane, zip and button closure, belt loops, slim fit.

Trippen black lace up shoes in vegetable-tanned calf leather treated with wax finish, wood wedge with para rubber sole.

Y’s Yohji Yamamoto white poplin dress and long waistcoat in knitted wool jacquard, raw-cut frayed edges, lace closure on the neck, two patch side pockets, closed on the front and opened on the back, wearable front/back.

‘Classic Trippen’ ankle boot in oiled suede cowhide leather with strings and small hooks, removable cork insole, rubber sole.

Y’s Yohji Yamamoto dress with wool jersey bodice and cupro and tencel neck, bottom and sleeves, shirt small neck collar, a vertical side small pocket, shirt-like cuffs with small buttons, wide fit.

Trippen black lace up shoes in vegetable-tanned calf leather treated with wax finish, wood wedge with para rubber sole.

Y’s Yohji Yamamoto padded pea coat in wool gabardine, trench style neck, press studs closure, wide bat sleeve, 2 side vertical pockets with zip, knitted fabric cuffs, trapezium line, adjustable coulisse at the bottom, reversible.

Y’s Yohji Yamamoto dress in plain knitted wool with acrylic big ‘badly sewn’ polkadots, crew-neck, wide fitted at the waist line, bat three-quarter sleeves, two side pocket on the front, interesting to wear also with a belt.

Trippen black lace up shoes in vegetable-tanned calf leather treated with wax finish, wood wedge with para rubber sole.

Oyuna padded pea coat in plain knitted cashmere, pin safety closure, cowl neck, dressing gown sleeves, two side vertical welt pockets, circle seams, reversible, available with agate lining.

Y’s Yohji Yamamoto baggy man style trousers in floral washed cotton brocade, button and zip closure, belt loops, 2 pockets on the front, 2 low big pockets on the back, adjustable back strap.

Trippen black lace up shoes in vegetable-tanned calf leather treated with wax finish, wood wedge with para rubber sole.

Packaging by Maison Issey Miyake for the circular pleated jacket.

Issey Miyake ‘sculpture’ short and fitted at the waist jacket in triacetate and polyester circular pleated printed with regular small bars, shawl neck, small button closure.

Less than one month from the Christmas holidays, many cities have already mounted sumptuous decorations on trees, buildings and along the streets. Being a great occasion to set on stage the kitsch or more successful urban aesthetic experimentations, the voltaic excess of the moment lights up for sure the December anxiety-inducing question: What am I giving to…?

A strong anxiolytic against the stress caused by the search with no results, running and dipping into over-crowded and definitely unflattering places, could be starting a more comfortable exploration of the online catalogue…From the painted Very Busy cashmeres to the engineering Bao Bao Issey Miyake bag, or the Fulvio Luparia scarves and the inimitable Issey Miyake pleated spirals, the choice becomes a walk around the Radical Fashion panoramas.

Very Busy 1 thread on point 8 cashmere cardigan with abstract painted effect printing with side windows, reversible.

Vivienne Westwood Red Label ankle length trousers in pinstripe wool, close-fitting, belt with belt loops, zip and ‘Vivienne’ button closure, two diagonal side front pockets, two small welt pockets with triangular flap and small buttons on the back.

Very Busy wide sweater in stocking stitch cashmere with tone on tone colour shades , wide crew-neck, reversible.

Comme des garçons Comme des Garçons large skirt in nylon sateen quilted on the inside, elastic band and coulisse on the belt.

Trippen high ankle boots in oiled suede cowhide leather, with laces and small hooks, removable inner cork sole, rubber sole.

Very Busy 1 thread on point 8 cashmere sweater with abstract painted effect, high cowl neck, trapeze line, reversible.

Vivienne Westwood Red Label ankle length trousers in pinstripe wool, close-fitting, belt with belt loops, zip and ‘Vivienne’ button closure, two diagonal side front pockets, two small welt pockets with triangular flap and small buttons on the back.

Very Busy wide sweater in stocking stitch cashmere with abstract printing with a painted effect, turtle soft neck, reversible.

Trippen high ankle boots in oiled suede cowhide leather, with laces and small hooks, removable inner cork sole, rubber sole.

Very Busy 1 thread on point 8 cashmere sweater with abstract painted effect, high cowl neck, trapeze line, reversible.

Vivienne Westwood Red Label ankle length trousers in pinstripe wool, close-fitting, belt with belt loops, zip and ‘Vivienne’ button closure, two diagonal side front pockets, two small welt pockets with triangular flap and small buttons on the back.

Very Busy wide cardigan in stocking stitch cashmere with big rectangle pattern in different colours with a painted effect, wide V neck, reversible.

Trippen high ankle boots in oiled suede cowhide leather, with laces and small hooks, removable inner cork sole, rubber sole.

Bao Bao Issey Miyake small ball bicoloured bag made of three-dimensional triangular plates in metallic PVC repeated with origami calculations on a cotton base, cuff handle, zip closure, circumference 55 cm.

Issey Miyake long, reversible coat in wool and angora bicolour fleece, half-closed neck, three buttons closure, one wrist button, shorter on the front, raglan shoulder, two side diagonal patch pockets.

Bao Bao Issey Miyake medium-sized bag made of triangular plates in glossy polyurethane repeated with origami calculations, press button closure, 2 small pockets on the inside, one with a zip, h 30 cm x w 35 cm.

Yohji Yamamoto wide coat in herringbone light twill in wool and polyamide, big padded neck, double slider zip closure, two welt side vertical pockets, but sleeve with opening and dropped panel, lined.

Trippen heavy-duty boot style ankle boot in cowhide leather, closure with strings and strap with outer side buckle, smooth leather on the heel and on the toe, the other parts in rough leather, removable cork insole, rubber sole.

Bao Bao Issey Miyake small shoulder bag made of triangular plates in matt PVC repeated with origami calculations on a polyester net base, zip closure, an open inner pocket, adjustable shoulder strap, h 20 cm x w 30 cm.

Comme des Garçons Comme des Garçons wide pea-coat in nylon sateen quilted on the inside, buttons closure, hood, asymmetric line with side points, shorter on the front, two inner side patch pockets, open flap under the armpit.

Comme des Garçons dry hand calf-length skirt in heavy knitted wool, polyester, nylon and acrylic, sewn large pleating, elastic and drawstring at the waist.

Comme des Garçons long and thin shoe in cowhide leather, two small symmetric cuts with elastic band barely visible on the instep, rubber sole.

Bao Bao Issey Miyake medium-sized mail bag made of triangular plates in glossy PVC repeated with origami calculations, two dovetailed buttons closure, a small inner pocket, big outside pocket with zip, adjustable shoulder strap, h 30 cm x w 36 cm.

Comme des Garçons soft hand short jacket in wool and polyester on a raw cut white cotton base sticking out from the hem and from the sleeve, crew-neck, buttons closure.

Comme des Garçons dry hand calf-length skirt in heavy knitted wool, polyester, nylon and acrylic, sewn large pleating, elastic and drawstring at the waist.

Fulvio Luparia cashmere scarf, W 70 cm. x L 200 cm.

Oyuna plain knitted cashmere coat with padded bib in contrasting colour and irregular diamonds seams, high cowl neck, buttons closure, two vertical side pockets, reversible in/out and up/down.

Fulvio Luparia cashmere scarf, W cm. 90 x L cm. 180.

Comme des Garçons long coat with a pinstriped gabardine base and over heavy knitted wool, polyester, nylon and acrylic applications, crew-neck, single-breasted, no buttons.

‘Classic Trippen’ ankle boot in bicolour cowhide leather, with strings and small hooks, removable cork insole, rubber sole.

Fulvio Luparia modal and cashmere scarf, W cm. 140 x L cm. 200.

Oyuna plain knitted cashmere coat with padded bib in contrasting colour and irregular diamonds seams, high cowl neck, buttons closure, two vertical side pockets, reversible in/out and up/down.

Trippen ankle boots in oiled and suede cowhide leather, vertical inner side zip closure, high hill consisting of three blocks with different heights in anti-slip.

Fulvio Luparia silk and cashmere scarf, W cm. 90 x L cm. 180.

Daniela Gregis hand knitted wide cardigan in mohair and silk, high shawl neck, safety pin closure, two small patch pockets at the hem.

Vivienne Westwood Red Label short skirt in pinstripe wool, with asymmetric panels, two side slits, two darts front and back, belt, zip and small button side closure, ‘Red Label’ lined.

‘Classic Trippen’ ankle boot in bicolour cowhide leather, with strings and small hooks, removable cork insole, rubber sole.

Issey Miyake big ring scarf in polyester with three-dimensional cylindrical bubbles pleating, reversible.

Issey Miyake long, reversible coat in wool and angora bicolour fleece, half-closed neck, three buttons closure, one wrist button, shorter on the front, raglan shoulder, two side diagonal patch pockets.

Issey Miyake calf-length dress in diagonal and vertical pleated polyester with large bands printing, sleeveless with asymmetric tips on the sleeve back, tighter basque at the hem, completely asymmetric, wearable shorter lifting up the basque.

Trippen ankle boot in soft suede cowhide leather, with a comma elastic both sides of the ankle, with 2 shells sole.

Issey Miyake short and large horizontal and circular pleated t-shirt in polyester with an alcantara effect, boat neck, flared sleeve.

Issey Miyake tight-fitting trousers in stretch wool canvas and polyurethane, belt loops, zip and button closure, two side diagonal front pockets and two welt back pockets with button, outside split at the hem.

Trippen ankle boot in soft suede cowhide leather, with a comma elastic both sides of the ankle, with 2 shells sole.

Issey Miyake tunic in heavy polyester pleating with a serpentine movement, boat neck, flared sleeve, side welt pockets, irregular segmental hem.

Issey Miyake tight-fitting trousers in stretch wool canvas and polyurethane, belt loops, zip and button closure, two side diagonal front pockets and two welt back pockets with button, outside split at the hem.

Trippen ankle boot in soft suede cowhide leather, with a comma elastic both sides of the ankle, with 2 shells sole.

Issey Miyake short t-shirt in heavy polyester pleating with serpentine movement, boat neck, flared sleeve, irregular segmental hem.

Issey Miyake tight-fitting trousers in stretch wool canvas and polyurethane, belt loops, zip and button closure, two side diagonal front pockets and two welt back pockets with button, outside split at the hem.

Trippen ankle boot in soft suede cowhide leather, with a comma elastic both sides of the ankle, with 2 shells sole.

Zilla small “bread bag” in creased laminated nappa leather in iridescent copper on the outside and matt black on the inside, hand hole, h 31 cm x w 19 cm.

Forme d’Expression long coat in big moss stitch knitted wool, with hood, press buttons closure, two patch pockets.

Trippen heavy-duty boot style ankle boot in cowhide leather, closure with strings and strap with outer side buckle, smooth leather on the heel and on the toe, the other parts in rough leather, removable cork insole, rubber sole.

…And the gift wrap? HEART-BOX and its workforces will be at work to wrap up with papers, twines, colours and glues not only your selection but the most noble gesture, the gift to someone you care!

Celtic harsh resonances support the presentation of a simply great Yohji Yamamoto’s Autumn/Winter collection, in an alternation of folk melodies suggesting the thematic references chosen for the coming season. Resolute in going into all the possible connections between the sartorial work and the artistic dimension, the great Japanese master embraces a narrative bond with the artist Yasuto Sasada, where form and colour converge in the same figurative imagery.

In fact both, one through the study of the volumes and of the formal structures of the garments, the other with the chromatic ability of the drawing, offer an amazing representation of that syncretism, typical of the Japanese culture, between traditional and contemporary elements. Printings of archaic mythological figures, in metamorphosis with ultracontemporary pop and manga references, overlap themselves with the plentiful dimensions of the outerwear.

Shapes evocating ancient social roles, fully-developed and made up-to-date with absolutely more modern times, thanks to an efficient balance between the fabric selection, from the wool to the cotton canvas, and the cutting-edge movement of the forms in the ever-present Yohji’s black.

If the urban streets show off replicants suffocated inside all the same skimpy padded coat, Yohji Yamamoto challenges the lazy and atavistic trend to homologation offering the possibility to distinguish the self inside garments conceived as first works, not only never seen before, but most of all heralding of thought, ideas and respect towards who would wear them.

*All the pictures of the Backstage of Yohji Yamamoto A/W 2014-15 Fashion Show are by Elise Toïdé.

Yohji Yamamoto wide padded coat in heavy padded cotton, wide neck with hood, no buttons or zip closure, two vertical welt pockets.

Yohji Yamamoto classic twill trousers printed with artist Yasuto Sasada drawings, tight at the bottom, 2 front diagonal pockets and 2 welt pockets with small button on the back, zip and button closure, belt loops and inserted strap with buckle, lined.

Yohji Yamamoto wool gabardine coat with sewn padded scarf, crew-neck, high side zip, two horizontal pockets on the front, zip closure with double slider, wide line, lined.

Yohji Yamamoto classic twill trousers printed with artist Yasuto Sasada drawings, tight at the bottom, 2 front diagonal pockets and 2 welt pockets with small button on the back, zip and button closure, belt loops and inserted strap with buckle, lined.

Trippen black lace up shoes in vegetable-tanned calf leather treated with wax finish, wood wedge with para rubber sole.

Yohji Yamamoto jacket/shirt in printed twill with artist Yasuto Sasada drawings, high neck, double slider zip closure, raw cut outlines, upturned V side inserts in plain colour, under-sleeve with a long open band, 2 welt pockets.

Yohji Yamamoto man style trousers with low crutch in soft wool flannel, tight at the bottom, two diagonal pockets on the front, two flap pockets on the back, button and zip closure, belt loops.

Trippen black lace up shoes in vegetable-tanned calf leather treated with wax finish, wood wedge with para rubber sole.

Yohji Yamamoto wide coat in herringbone light twill in wool and polyamide, big padded neck, double slider zip closure, two welt side vertical pockets, but sleeve with opening and dropped panel, lined.

Yohji Yamamoto long dress in wool jersey and woollen cloth, slightly rolled up neck, two pockets with flaps on side panels, laid on top panels along the sleeves.

‘Classic Trippen’ ankle boot in bicolour cowhide leather, with strings and small hooks, removable cork insole, rubber sole.

Yohji Yamamoto cotton canvas long overcoat, single-breasted, hood, two symmetric vertical raw-cut stitchings on the front, two vertical pockets on the front, zip closure with double slider, metallic small unicorn and small bird of prey.

Yohji Yamamoto classic twill trousers printed with artist Yasuto Sasada drawings, tight at the bottom, 2 front diagonal pockets and 2 welt pockets with small button on the back, zip and button closure, belt loops and inserted strap with buckle, lined.

Trippen black lace up shoes in vegetable-tanned calf leather treated with wax finish, wood wedge with para rubber sole.

Yohji Yamamoto down pea coat in heavy cotton canvas, single-breasted, wide neck, 2 big patch pockets with 2 diagonal welt pockets laid upon them, longer on the back with upside down V central split, double slider zip closure.

Yohji Yamamoto long dress in wool jersey and woollen cloth, slightly rolled up neck, two pockets with flaps on side panels, laid on top panels along the sleeves.

Yohji Yamamoto short pea coat in cotton canvas and synthetic fur on the wide cushion neck and on the mittens, guru neck, double slider zip closure, 2 horizontal pockets with zip, padded collar badge, straight line, cotton lined.

Yohji Yamamoto long dress in wool jersey and woollen cloth, slightly rolled up neck, two pockets with flaps on side panels, laid on top panels along the sleeves.

Yohji Yamamoto jacket/pea coat in wool gabardine, doubled high neck, upside down V wool knitted side inserts, double slider zip closure. 2 side welt pockets, bat sleeve with opened under arms with dropped panel.

Yohji Yamamoto man shirt in cotton poplin with doubled trimmings folded near the neck.

Yohji Yamamoto man trousers with low crouch in soft wool and cotton tweed, tight at the bottom, two diagonal front pockets, two flap pockets on the back, closure with zip and buttons, belt loops.

Trippen high ankle boot in oiled suede cowhide leather with aged effect , double slider spiral zip around the ankle, staggered edging, removable cork insole, anti-slip rubber sole.

Yohji Yamamoto long dress in wool jersey and woollen cloth, slightly rolled up neck, two pockets with flaps on side panels, laid on top panels along the sleeves.

‘Classic Trippen’ ankle boot in bicolour cowhide leather, with strings and small hooks, removable cork insole, rubber sole.

Y’s Yohji Yamamoto calf length fitted at the waist dress in tencel jersey with “Mark Rothko” colours print, slip like shoulder straps, neck opening with net insert, central zip on the back, a small side pocket on the waist.

Yohji Yamamoto shoulder bag in smooth cow leather with wool gabardine sides, drawstring expanded, one small pocket at front and one at back, exposed zip closure, detachable buckle adjustable thin strap, cotton canvas lining, inside pocket.

Trippen simple flat sandal with one upper strap across the feet and a narrow one at the ankle with velcro fastening.

LGR woman’s sun-glasses with shaded grey photochromatic lenses; frame in flexible acetate by Mazzucchelli and lenses by Barberini.

Vivienne Westwood Gold Label dress/skirt in viscose with a big orchid print on a black background, elastic at the belt, two side welt pockets, wide and straight line, wearable as a long skirt or a calf length dress.

Vivienne Westwood Gold Label short cardigan in knitted cotton and silk, boat neck, sewn as two drawn near knitted fabrics with profiles in relief, open holes on the shoulders and on the sides, a small pocket diagonally sewn on the front, small band hem, tight fit.

Trippen high clog with cowhide leather bands and wood sole.covered with non-slip rubber, leather band with velcro closure, heel height 7,5 cm.

Blue Yesey hat, 100% straw.

Cauliflower Issey Miyake creased t-shirt in polyester jersey, wide round neck, short sleeves.

Zucca wide and long cardigan with cotton Norwegian jacquard, three quarter sleeve, V neck, sewn beads with Aztecan pattern on the shoulders, two side small pockets at the hem.

Zucca straight fit trousers in washed cotton poplin., two diagonal pockets on the front and a small pocket with button on the back, stitching in the inner thigh with a “jodhpurs” effect, sewn turn-up at the hem, belt loops.

Rosa Mosa cotton canvas pois print and leather sneakers with rubber sole.

Yesey hat, 100% paper.

Comme des Garçons ”sculpture” shirt with overlapping shapes in popeline cotton, medium length, short sleeves with geometric design, wide crew-neck.

Forme d’Expression curve shaped skinny pants in black washed wool serge, leg with front curve cut, concealed button fastening, sides slit pocket, centre leg cut and welt pockets at rear, slightly shorter and pointed hem at the back.

Yohji Yamamoto doctor style tote in black garment texture soft leather, hinged top, double handles, can be wear on shoulder, cotton canvas lining, , one zipped, one cell phone holder and one slit inside pockets.

Tracey Neuls stringless shoes in soft cowhide leather, mocassin like upper with small holes on the tongue and with inner elastic band, leather sole.

Scha limited edition hat in vintage quality, very fine weave sisal double layers, soft and ultralight, small brim, pliable wire in the edge.

Boboutic wide t-shirt in stockinette stitch makò cotton and silk, falling raw cut short sleeves, wide and reinforced crew-neck, sewn with slight horizontal difference in colour from one shoulder to the other along the back, hem band, shorter at the front.

Oyuna sahrouel knitted jersey/crêpe de Chine cotton trousers, side small pocket on the hip, asymmetric line, elastic at the waist, wearable also as a below the knee skirt lifting up the bottom.

PLEATS PLEASE Issey Miyake half moon bag in slanting polyester pleating and leather trimmings, an inside small pocket with zip, inside lined with nylon, zip closure, strengthened bottom on the sides, removable handles with hook, cross body, shoulder or hand bag.

Trippen flip-flop sandal with classic “Trippen” wide sole and metallic cowhide leather bands outlining a open V on the instep, band with Velcro fastening around the ankle, rubber arch support.