One of the constant features of Daniela Gregis’ collection is definitely her unique and exclusive ability to naturally combine two temporal and spatial dispositions that are distinct opposites of one another: the old and rural on the one hand, and the contemporary and urban on the other. A Proustian figure of speech cleansed of all nostalgia and rendered physical in the shape of clothing. The balance created by Gregis essentially has that touch of a different daily reality that has yet to unfold, while seamlessly blending the beauty of the past with current cultural resources.

Comfortable volumes and colour tones drawn from the most evocative seasonal contrasts emphasise a serene sense of femininity, enveloped in fibres and fabrics that have been worked by hand, using the instruments, loom, needles, and crochet hook representing far slower societies. Straw bags, generous shawls and heavy sweaters are evidence of the insurmountable practicalities of facing up to the imminent cold weather.

At the same time, a complexity of layered and asymmetrical shapes, with broad and concise lines that combine so well together, and a certain freedom that is provided especially by the garments making a variety of options accessible; these are all evidence of a marked sensitivity to the more evolved clothing options of the Japanese and the countries north of Alps.

The use of sought after raw materials like silks for items that see a skirt transformed with intelligence into an outfit for the evening; taking into account potential social evenings, not just in the context of the upcoming Christmas holidays, but any other entertainment offered by the rich cultural programmes in the various cities.

Gregis has the unmatched gift of being able to dress our most diametrically opposed desires and our most incompatible identities.

With our tutor Sari, we invite to discover a brief Fall/Winter 2012-2013 selection by IVO MILAN…

cashmere shawl with buffalo check pattern, small fringe

longuette dress with contrast tone bodice in washed wool and linen, boat neck with slit, high waist cut with adjustable fullness cuff links, elbow length kimono sleeves, side slit pockets, length adjustable through sides eyelets, self belt, raw cut edges

hand made crochet basket shape bag in multicolour wool and various fabric band, double handle

Trippen short bootee in soft, vegetable-tanned, aniline-dyed calf leather with suede surface and used look, zip fastener on the inside

cashmere shawl with macro check pattern, small fringe edges

longuette dress with contrast tone bodice in washed wool and linen, boat neck with slit, high waist cut with adjustable fullness cuff links, elbow length kimono sleeves, side slit pockets, length adjustable through sides eyelets, self belt, raw cut edges

Trippen short bootee in soft, vegetable-tanned, aniline-dyed calf leather with suede surface and used look, zip fastener on the inside

check pattern cashmere scarf, small fringe edges

hand knit jacquard alpaca wool sweater in two tones design, round neck, long sleeves, one tone hem, shaped fit

sarong style skirt in slightly sheer washed wool and linen, wrap-around with adjustable buttons and eyelets fastening, drapeable in various ways with different length effect, fringed edges

Trippen short bootee in soft, vegetable-tanned, aniline-dyed calf leather with suede surface and used look, zip fastener on the inside

man style jacket in two tone washed carded wool, shape fit, single breasted, three cotton cuff links fastening, one in contrast tone, side patch pockets with slits, loops function, for belt in different fabric and tone, unlined

sarong style skirt in slightly sheer washed wool and linen, wrap-around with adjustable buttons and eyelets fastening, drapeable in various ways with different length effect, fringed edges

Trippen short bootee in soft, vegetable-tanned, aniline-dyed calf leather with suede surface and used look, zip fastener on the inside

man style jacket in two tone washed carded wool, shape fit, single breasted, three cotton cuff links fastening, one in contrast tone, side patch pockets with slits, loops function, for belt in different fabric and tone, unlined

sarong style skirt in slightly sheer washed wool and linen, wrap-around with adjustable buttons and eyelets fastening, drapeable in various ways with different length effect, fringed edges

Trippen short bootee in soft, vegetable-tanned, aniline-dyed calf leather with suede surface and used look, zip fastener on the inside

Scha soft featherlight hat with medium brimmed roll up edge in finest fur felt

man style jacket in two tone washed carded wool, shape fit, single breasted, three cotton cuff links fastening, one in contrast tone, side patch pockets with slits, loops function, for belt in different fabric and tone, unlined

Comme des Garçons jacquard flower pattern skirt with rigid draped panels in the front, flat in the back, zip fastening at rear, asymmetric hem, past knee length

Trippen short bootee in soft, vegetable-tanned, aniline-dyed calf leather with suede surface and used look, zip fastener on the inside

Antonia hand knit cashmere oversize beanie hat, ribbed hem, seam detail at the back

striped cashmere coat, boatneck, single breasted safety pin fastening, wide kimono sleeves with double wrapping fringe at the cuffs, side slits, knee length, frayed hem

Cauliflower-Issey Miyake large trousers

Trippen short bootee in soft, vegetable-tanned, aniline-dyed calf leather with suede surface and used look, zip fastener on the inside

This seems to be the inspiration behind Rei Kawakubo’s new collection which, as usual, does not simply propose new trends for the current season, but complex creative works. The clothes are not presented for what they are, definite and completed items ready to be worn, but are rather abstract patterns to be repeated, superimposed, reversed and matched.

Skirts, shirts, jackets or waistcoats, every item of clothing is a sort of replicant that cannot be got rid of, that takes form and emerges from anywhere. The edge of a lapel, the stitching of a shoulder, the bottom of a skirt or of a pullover, the back of a dress are all possible places where another element can be put.

Comme des Garçons performs a sort of metalanguage of fashion, where the analysis and description of the process of the mind, which leads to concrete production, are revealed and suggested. Such an operation, that might have potentially obsessive and inflated results, is incredibly able to make up a poetic entirety that is generally harmonious, despite the centrality of asymmetrical lines.

Thanks to masterly tailoring and aesthetic skills, the imbalance of colours and volumes is translated into balanced solutions, whilst the urge to exceed is diluted by more severe pieces, where the creativity of the designer is shown by the fabric processing, for example the cotton that looks like skin.

This collection requires time and attention to detail, because, as we have already mentioned, nothing is as it seems.

Many pieces offer the possibility of being worn in different versions, thus enormously increasing the number of items of clothing.

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