Opportunities to showcase the work of Junya Watanabe, the Japanese designer historically produced by the Maison Comme des Garçons, have been plentiful. He was among the illustrious guests at the Radical Fashion exhibition at the Victoria and Albert Museum in London back in 2001, which also inspired the homonymous publication.

Elements such as origami, metal detailing, and eco-leather are repeatedly used to create a strongly recognizable language that sits at the intersection of avant-garde cyber-metropolitan trends and the visual arts.

According to the philosophy established by the Japanese school—from Rei Kawakubo to Issey Miyake, Yohji Yamamoto, and others—the dress transcends its simple decorative function, of medium and filter for social representation, instead becomes a creative opportunity and a textile device of complex realization.

For the current Fall/Winter season, Watanabe’s patchworks of matter evoke the ostentatious yet irresponsible luxury of snake skin, but in his hands, everything is a construct. The shapes, innovative and sculptural, articulate poetics that stand in stark contrast to any vulgarity. Silhouettes expand, as seen in the ‘spatial’ coat, whose expertly balanced volume takes the form of a spiral cape made from faux leather sewn onto heavy wool melton. Alternatively, they soften in a more subdued version with dropped sleeves. The dry eco-leather dress, essentially a long vest that can be layered over simpler outfits, does not shy away from more explicit elements of femininity. Unmissable the denim, with the collaboration with Levi’s, deconstructed and recomposed following the theme of the season.

This bold rhythm is a symphony of high notes and more subdued tones, a laborious composition between everyday contexts far removed from boredom and more vibrant and expressive social events.

The first change of temperatures allows us to finally experience the autumn season even outside of the online dimension ‘catalogue‘ and of the daily spaces of the store.

Now you can place the garments within the colors and atmospheres of the period, imagining them in their potential and transversal recombinations. Our tutor Sari, on a Sunday in November, leads us into passionate mix and match where you can discover, from new perspectives, different items of the seasonal assortment.

The fantastic Italian cashmere F-Cashmere – i.e. Fissore, historic brand of the most noble yarn – with different color blocks and surprisingly soft hand, accompanies a wide, rustic skirt in English Donegal by Ricorrrobe, Anglo-Japanese new-entry. They close the ensemble: a knitted hat made of acrylic, nylon and mohair by Chisaki – directly from Japan – and one of the nap Lak leather bags of the cheerful South Tyrolean Maison, Zilla.

And one more, the interpretation of Noir – Kei Ninomiya collection, the most classic winter, eternal heavy knit with braids and Lapp workmanship in a piece of more feminine portability, thanks to a wide development of the sleeves, of a complex high neck/hood and ideal proportions for voluminous skirts, such as that in waxed cotton tartan always proposed by Ricorrrobe. A cool polar hat, all moldable and the revisitation of the typical historical aviator jacket, squeezed and resumed with daring tailoring seams, by Junya Watanabe, celebrate a coming winter of international evocative recognizability.

To close our appointment, a mix and match that mixes together a unique piece of the Nuno-felt designer by Emanuela Rovida, in organic merino wool and silk, handmade and fused with painterly skills from natural colors of shrubs and territorial plants, completely reversible and wearable front and back, seamless, combined with a skirt by Marc Le Bihan, from the refined fabric of gauze and boiled wool, worked together with three-dimensional bubbles. To cover the exceptional quality of the garments, a Forme d’Expression coat with a daily taste, comfortable, in a mélange jersey with a vibrant and intense blue, reverberated by the dazzling glitter of a metallic leather briefcase.

While the summer insists on its hottest manifestations, longing for holiday destinations, regenerating rhythms and locations, we return together to Sari with some outdoor shots.

An opportunity to observe, from other perspectives, lights and combinations the proposals of a catalog that is now close to welcoming the first autumn deliveries…Let’s go!

Many thanks to GART for the location and to Andrea Rossi for the photos

Accessoires by: Shoto (shoes and bags), Zilla (bags), Chisaki (hats).

Clothing by: Marc Le Bihan, Album di Famiglia, Daniela Gregis, Junya Watanabe, Forme d’Expression, Shu Moriyama, Maria Calderara

Photo by Pascal Maucuit

On a rainy Saturday morning in Paris, with the town still sleeping, we run to the venue hosting the parade of Junya Watanabe: the faculty of pharmacology at Rue de l’Observatoire, exactly at the opposite end of the metro stop to which we have to go in the evening also for Comme des Garçons.

The rain, the time and the hurry to look for the fastest way to reach our destination do not favor the good humor, until, once into the mighty faculty salon, we are not awakened by a loud rock. The rhythm spurs for attention, the fierce gait of the models drags the present into an inevitable, and personal, reflection on fashion, on its utility or emptiness, and above all, it generates a real, widespread and more than ever palpable perception of uncontrollable enthusiasm.

As if the world suddenly recapture each potential, the possible silhouettes projected on Junya Watanabe‘s future Fall/Winter incite that desire for change that is the vulnus itself of fashion and the radicalism with which the Japanese designer staggers it is thrilling.

Faithful to his own ‘cyber’ vision of contemporaneity, Watanabe assembles materials with his typical origami form, which on this occasion we can recognize in the circle: calf hair, black leather, leopard spots, all strictly in synthetic leather, studs and pailletes re-compose patch-works of cultures and epochs of costume history of the most experimental forms. Excess is the guiding thread of deformed decorative elements, which not only outline unusual aesthetics, but also become part of and modify the human physical structure. Caps like sculptures, multicolored textile wigs, lacking any romantic poetics and built to defend any hypothetical attack, tunics that amplify the circularity of the chakras, coats shaped around the feminine figure with asymmetrical spheres, possible ultra-modern armors against the advancement of the creative nothing.

But the excess is finally cleaned, made accessible in the showroom choices, revealing how far it can go and how it can be traced back to the hectic daily life but still it remains a visionary exercise of pure and extraordinary contemporary textile art.

Junya Watanabe Spring/Summer 2016 runway details, Dazed & Confused dazeddigital.com.

(Dress and necklace coming soon.)

We always brought to light the Junya Watanabe’s peculiar interpretative ability in establishing, in the form of dress, the predominant stresses of our time. Post-modern, cyber-punk, tailor-philosopher of an age crossed by very fast transformations, where, from collection to collection, plastics and brand new materials, parts of abandoned industrial landscapes, occurred, to give shape to his personal metabolization and to his interpretation of the contemporaneity.

For the Spring/Summer 2016 the Rei Kawakubo-Comme des Garçons’ favourite, still produced by the Japanese Maison, welcomed his public in an emblematic space of pressing social themes, the Musée de l’Histoire de l’Immigration of Paris.

Il Musée de l’Histoire de l’Immigration of Paris on the cover of Junya Watanabe S/S 2016 lookbook.

An important clue, a sensitive container of the present restrictive instincts of a continent in a state of alert for the imposing migratory phenomenon of which is witness. A suggestion and also an invitation to change the prospective through which we perceive the present, from an emergency point of view to an enrichment one, the one that only a flow of people and therefore of culture could offer, as the time has been able to testify.

And it’s the most problematic and hot continent to be celebrated and evoked, translated by the usual Watanabe’s modern glance. African and electro sonorities go along on the runway with the vivaciousness of the colours and of the decorations: very warm reds or clear, intense blues; kaftans and zebra-stripes dresses, tunics and shirts, garments able to face the highest temperatures, but also able to prepare us for more relaxed and evolved holidays.

Constant asymmetries, elliptic constructions, experimental leopard spots on Japanese paper and complex fabric movements at the hem bring Africa and its chromatic, formal and symbolic qualities into the metropolitan and stateless circuits, where any traditional aesthetic contaminate and regenerate itself in peculiar, as independent, anthropological expressions.

Junya Watanabe long kaftan dress in light polyester canvas with horizontal stripes ‘décor’ style and aluminium bangles, wide crew-neck, wide flared sleeve, big metallic bangles on the cuffs detachable with laces and loops.

Junya Watanabe zebra-striped dress coming soon.

Junya Watanabe multi-layers rings necklace from the bigger to the smaller in shiny polyurethane and polyester imitation leather, it could be placed along the shoulders.

Photography from Junya Watanabe S/S 2016 lookbook.

Junya Watanabe asymmetric robe manteau dress in polyester organza with tone on tone small spots processing in Japanese paper, wide half-closed shirt neck, ¾ flared sleeve, buttons closure till the bottom, spiral construction.

Junya Watanabe 5 pockets jeans-like leggings in light stretch linen and polyurethane canvas, over-the-ankle length, zip and button closure, belt loops.

Massimo Giussani man shoe in cowhide leather entirely hand-painted with two colours one shading on the other, with laces and tongue with inner elastic band, leather sole painted in the same colours of the upper part.

Junya Watanabe long and wide shirt in light ramié canvas, raglan shoulder, long sleeve, sack line on the back and straight on the front.

A punto B long trousers in cotton poplin, elastic band and light curling at the band, welt vertical side pockets.

Massimo Giussani man shoe in cowhide leather entirely hand-painted with two colours one shading on the other, with laces and tongue with inner elastic band, leather sole painted in the same colours of the upper part.

Junya Watanabe long and wide shirt in light ramié canvas, raglan shoulder, long sleeve, sack line on the back and straight on the front.

A punto B wide linen canvas trousers, elastic band and light curling at the belt, welt vertical side pockets.

Classic’ Trippen ankle-length boot in soft elk leather with rounded tip, diagonal zip on the upper part, side zip closure, removable cork insole, rubber sole.

Junya Watanabe wide tunic in light ramié canvas, shirt neck with half-closed closure, flared line with stiff band, sack shape with central upside down V stitching and on the back at the bottom.

Junya Waatanabe 5 pockets jeans-like leggings in light stretch linen and polyurethane canvas, over-the-ankle length, zip and button closure, belt loops.

Massimo Giussani man shoe in cowhide leather entirely hand-painted with two colours one shading on the other, with laces and tongue with inner elastic band, leather sole painted in the same colours of the upper part.

Junya Watanabe wide tunic in light cotton canvas, crew-neck with back small button, flared line with stiff band, sack shape with side stitching towards the inside at the bottom.

Junya Waatanabe 5 pockets jeans-like leggings in light stretch linen and polyurethane canvas, over-the-ankle length, zip and button closure, belt loops.

Massimo Giussani man shoe in cowhide leather entirely hand-painted with two colours one shading on the other, with laces and tongue with inner elastic band, leather sole painted in the same colours of the upper part.

Top 132 5. Issey Miyake spring/summer 2016.

Despite the slow, endless moving forward of the winter, in the shop the season sales introduce and overlap the joyful arrival of the next Spring/Summer. An impressive Trippen delivery makes us guess the incoming chromatic presences and, for the first time in Europe, the 132 5. Issey Miyake origami lines, anticipates the most clever developments of the extraordinary Japanese Maison!

Trippen shoes spring/summer 2016 lined up ready to be photigraphed.

Top 132 5. Issey Miyake spring/summer 2016.

1 One-dimensional

3 Three-dimensional

2 Shape

5 Body

But also Daniela Gregis, Comme des Garçons, Junya Watanabe are waiting for their turn of being shot and added to our online catalogue…

Junya Watanabe spring/summer 2016

The well-curated Daniela Gregis packaging.

Hand-woven Daniela Gregis bag in wicker and vichy spring/summer 2016.

The first arrivals of Comme des Garçons, Daniela Gregis, Junya Watanabe and 1 3 2 5.Issey Miyake waiting to be photographed  for our online catalogue.

And after these fleeting, as confused, new arrivals previews, the rigid temperatures allow us to still dwell upon the many winter possibilities… Outfits provided by the knowledge of months of experimentations, revelations and fittings with the shop customers. Often unique pieces, of impossible to find design, being timeless they are combinable with garments from the past winters, a strategic and gratifying finishing to our refined wardrobes.

Vivienne Westwood Red Label long and heavy sweater in malfilè wool, cotton, polyamide and acrylic with big contrasting triangles, wide crew-neck.

Vivienne Westwood Anglomania short pants-style miniskirt in polyester and elastane canvas with  a worn-out velvet effect printing, inner buttons closure, outer buttons diagonal closure, 2 side pockets, central back slit.

Vivienne Westwood Anglomania viscose and spandex leggings with Union Jack printing.

Vivienne Westwood Mantero big scarf in acrylic and wool big thread loom weft with squares pattern, fringes along the edges, l 200 cm x h 55 cm.

Trippen ankle boot in soft suede cowhide leather slightly creased on the instep, side zip closure, new ‘spot’ sole with two rubber blocks and non-slip base made on iron stamp.

Y’s Yohji Yamamoto wide coat in loom worked wollen multicolour cloth, single-breasted, half-closed crew-neck, frayed edges, two diagonal vertical pockets, press buttons closure.

Y’s Yohji Yamamoto long, wide and asymmetric sweater in knitted wool with a light bouclé effect, turtle-neck with V opening on the front, horizontal ribbing on the breast and on the shoulder, diagonal point at the bottom, side stitching, one side slit, asymmetric line.

Y’s Yohji Yamamoto spencer jacket in wool gabardine with cuff and hem bands, single-breasted with lapels, two vertical welt pockets.

Y’s Yohji Yamamoto wide, large and asymmetric divided skirt in light pale multicolour wool canvas, with brace, one vertical welt pockets, zip and drawstring side closure.

Yohji Yamamoto wide stole in knitted wool and nylon worked with stitched ribbed fringes, fringes at the far ends, l 216 cm x h 70 cm.

Trippen ankle-boot in cowhide leather with new ‘spot’ sole with two rubber blocks and non-slipper base made on iron stamps, vertical elastic bands from the sole to the ankle.

Yohji Yamamoto short cardigan in light knitted wool, polyamide and viscose with abstract-geometrical texture, zip closure, drop-shaped neck, wider on the side, hem band, wide kimono sleeve.

Yohji Yamamoto short jersey and gabardine wool dress, tight-fitting t-shirt bodice with wide draped fabric sewn at the neck and adjustable, long sleeve.

Yohji Yamamoto classic twill trousers printed with artist Yasuto Sasada drawings, tight at the bottom, 2 front diagonal pockets and 2 welt pockets with small button on the back, zip and button closure, belt loops and inserted strap with buckle, lined.

Trippen ankle boot in soft suede cowhide leather slightly creased on the instep, side zip closure, new ‘spot’ sole with two rubber blocks and non-slip base made on iron stamp.

Rick Owens sculpture padded jacket longer on the sides in polyamide with an horizontal pleating processing, geometrical stitching on the front, single-breasted with wide triangular lapels, three snaps buttons closure.

Issey Miyake wool and polyurethane crêpe stretch trousers with contrasting colour belt, two diagonal pockets, two welt pockets on the back, diagonal panel stitched on the front, two buttons and zip side closure, soft line.

Trippen ankle-boot in washed and treated cowhide leather with three blocks heel, side zip closure, wide sole, instep upper part higher on the back.

Junya Watanabe mohair sweater with ribbed pyramid origami in wool and polyester along the sleeves and the shoulders, crew-neck, band on the cuffs, neck and at the bottom.

Junya Watanabe knee-length wide full skirt with rounded large pleats in wool flannel, side closure with zip and hook.

Shu Moriyama short and wide jacket in embossed wool canvas with patterns in two different colours, crew-neck, single-breasted with press buttons.

Andrea Cortella rew-neck sweater in stitched Cashwool extra fine Merino wool with pyramid shaped points on the front, knitted band at the bottom, on the cuffs and on the neck, straight line.

Issey Miyake skirt in steam stretch pleated bicolour polyester and polyurethane with a narrow crystal effect, elastic band at the belt, wide and flared line, two welt pockets, reversible and wearable as a cape.

‘Classic Trippen’ ankle boot in oiled suede cowhide leather with strings and small hooks, removable cork insole, rubber sole.

Issey Miyake pleated garments.

Junya Watanabe and Comme des Garçons garments.

Gudrun & Gudrun knitwear.

Gudrun & Gudrun open jacket style cardigan in heavy knitted alpaca, dropped stitching working on the shoulder and along the sleeve.

Y’s Yohji Yamamoto long divided skirt in cotton canvas with vertical stitched pleats, 2 diagonal side welt pockets, zip and button closure.

Vivienne Westwood Mantero big scarf in acrylic and wool big thread loom weft with squares pattern, fringes along the edges, l 200 cm x h 55 cm.

Trippen ankle boot in drummed cowhide leather and traditional Japanese sole, parallel stratifications effect on the upper instep, zip closure, traditional rubber Japanese sole.

Forme D’Expression wide pea coat in damask wool cloth with checks, shawl neck, shorter on the back, points on the front, pointed bottom, closure with button on the neck or on the side.

Boboutic short sweater in knitted extra fine wool, polyamide and yak, with irregular weft thread in a different colour at the bottom and on the sleeves, crew-neck with band, band on the cuffs and at the hem, soft line.

Forme D’Expression wool jersey trousers with waistband and knee-length doubled leg, soft line, two side welt pockets and one patch pocket on the back.

Forme D’Expression high closed neck warmer in doubled knitted soft wool and cashmere in two different colours inside-outside, reversible.

Kate Sheridan rectangular backpack in waterproof British Millerain with leather adjustable shoulder straps, flap and adjustable leather ribbon closure, internal open pockets and internal zip pocket, h 43 cm x l 38 cm.

Daniela Gregis egg-shaped handmade sweater in straight stitched mohair and silk, wide crew-neck, long sleeve, neck, hem and cuffs with ribbed edge.

Daniela Gregis calf-length skirt in double wool crêpe with dark ‘storm’ printing, cut out hem, waistband at the belt, curled at the waist.

Trippen ankle boot in treated and washed cowhide leather, winglet with a pleat effect on the side, turn-up at the ankle, inner zip closure, two shell rubber sole.

Reinhard Plank medium-brimmed bowler hat in waxed and varnished lapin felt with a ‘rock’ effect.

Photography by Sari Milan.

“Exploring dimensionality through clothing” has laically synthesized the spokesman of the Japanese designer in a pedantic announcement after the Autumn/Winter fashion show 2015-16 held at the Palais du Tokyo in Paris last 7th March.

Not new to astonishing textile exercises Junya Watanabe, Rei Kawakubo’s favorite and still produced by the Comme des Garçons maison, in fact made his debut enchanting the audience with poetic floral structure to wear.

Yet the developing of the origami theme assumes today a different character, in certain aspects less ethereal, more conceptual and nearer to the immaterial and complex dimension of the algorithmic logic, where recursive and homogeneous series determinate almost perfect extensions.

Soft wool jersey spheres, of which three-dimensionality has been realized trough the obsessive repetition of a basic geometric pattern, decorate necks, dresses bottoms and sweaters or just stand as independent architectures in the cases of capes and scarves.

In different experiments it’s the strictness of the pyramidal geometry, starting from an essential volumetric unit of measure, to be recomposed in polyester sateen sculptural jackets.

The calculation obsession is showed off by complex and abstruse mathematic functions tattooed in the few free skin glimpses of the models on the runway: hands, ankles reveal the impetuosity of an irrepressible numeric word.

Junya Watanabe Autumn/Winter 2015-16 Runway Details

Source: style.com http://www.style.com/fashion-shows/fall-2015-ready-to-wear/junya-watanabe

Nature and culture, order and chaos, co-existing dichotomy from the revelations of the most modern physics, are translated into harmonious decorative fabric abstractions.

The most cyber and post-modern of the Japanese designers seems going to the fractal complex theoretical visions, he’s experimenting a fabric expression to wear with its usual and peculiar visionary character, in certain case even in the routine of the everyday life, taking us with bewilderment and well in advance respect the others towards unimaginable future horizons.

Junya Watanabe wool jersey dress with wide corolla neck in three-dimensional origami, soft fit, sleeve tight to the waist, wearable also as a t-shirt.

Junya Watanabe hip-length sculpture cape with pyramid origami in polyester sateen, hook closure, oval gab on the back, lined.

Junya Watanabe calf-length striped dress in light wool jersey with three-dimensional origami half-moon bottom, crew-neck, shorts pants on the inside, back zip closure.

Junya Watanabe classic man shirt in horizontal pleated cotton and polyester, rounded hem, cuff with button, central button closure, shirt neck.

Junya Watanabe calf-length skirt in origami polyester taffetas, elastic band at the waist, reversible, tighter on a side at the hem, flared on the other side, reversible and wearable as a cape.

Junya Watanabe Oxford style shoe in oiled and suede cowhide leather with an aged effect, strings closure, 2 shells rubber sole.

Junya Watanabe hip-length cardigan in light wool jersey with shawl floral origami neck, long sleeve, central small buttons closure.

Junya Watanabe cape jacket in polyester sateen, turtle-neck, single-breasted, ¾ sleeve, flat on front, wide back with waves and darts, central buttons closure.

Junya Watanabe classic man shirt in horizontal pleated cotton and polyester, rounded hem, cuff with button, central button closure, shirt neck.

Junya Watanabe calf-length skirt in origami polyester taffetas, elastic band at the waist, reversible, tighter on a side at the hem, flared on the other side, reversible and wearable as a cape.

Junya Watanabe wide corolla cape in wool jersey floral origami, zip closure.

Junya Watanabe classic man shirt in horizontal pleated cotton and polyester, rounded hem, cuff with button, central button closure, shirt neck.

straight pleated calf-length dress with diagonal multicolour fantasy

Despite of the resolute summer pace, with an alternation -in Italy at least- of anticyclones, here in the shop are appearing the first Autumn arrivals.

Important returns: Issey Miyake, with a pre-collection that anticipates magisterial exercises of the Maison for the the winter season

straight pleated top with diagonal multicolour fant, long bat sleeve, V neck, rounded hem

pea coat with hexagonal three-dimensional pleating made with the steam stretch technique, wide lapel, 2 hooks closure with straps, 2 vertical welt pockets

wool and polyurethane crêpe stretch trousers with contrasting colour belt, 2 diagonal pockets, 2 welt pockets on the back, diagonal panel stitched on the front, 2 buttons and zip side closure, soft line

calf-length a-poc bicolour tunic dress, ¾ sleeve, amphora line, boat neck

t-shirt in a-poc bicolour fabric, cowl neck, soft line, wider at the hem, ¾ sleeve

stretch polyester and wool jeans-like trousers with small checks texture, 2 darts on the front, 2 side welt pockets, zip and button closure

small bucket bag in bicolour stiff soften and shiny polyester pleating, origami shape with three-dimensional star effect, string closure, small leather shoulder strap

Junya Watanabe with substantial anticipations of the poetic origami theme

waist-length sculpture cape with pyramid origami in polyester sateen, hook closure, oval gab on the back, lined

calf-length striped dress in light wool jersey with three-dimensional origami half-moon bottom, crew-neck, shorts pants on the inside, back zip closure

classic man shirt in horizontal pleated cotton and polyester, rounded hem, cuff with button, central button closure, shirt neck

calf-length skirt in origami polyester taffetas, elastic band at the waist, reversible, tighter on a side at the hem, flared on the other side, reversible and wearable as a cape

wool jersey dress with wide corolla neck in three-dimensional origami, soft fit, sleeve tight to the waist, wearable also as a t-shirt

wide corolla cape in wool jersey floral origami, zip closure

classic man shirt in horizontal pleated cotton and polyester, rounded hem, cuff with button, central button closure, shirt neck

cape jacket in polyester sateen, turtleneck, single-breasted, ¾ sleeve, flat on front, wide back with waves and darts, central buttons closure

calf-length skirt in origami polyester taffetas, elastic band at the waist, reversible, tighter on a side at the hem, flared on the other side, reversible and wearable as a cape

classic man shirt in horizontal pleated cotton and polyester, rounded hem, cuff with button, central button closure, shirt neck

Together with our ‘classic’ of course: Comme des Garçons lines, easily integrable one with the other

reversible top, polyester lace on a side, on the other a sewn taffetas roses pattern, zip closure

man trousers with darts in creased high-tech polyester fabric, very wide leg with turn-up at the hem, zip and 2 buttons closure, 2 side welt pockets, 2 back welt pockets, 1 with button, belt loops

man jacket in embroidered lace of washed cotton and polyester, single-breasted with lapels, joined at the bottom with an overlapping flap, button-less, 2 patch pockets, small back slit

very much of Daniela Gregis, with sweaters and dresses solemnly pointing to the next winter, alternating silks, wool and cashmere

robe manteau in wool felt with cuts on orange crêpe de chine, flared sleeve, closure with the belt in the same fabric, semicircle cuts, reversible with fabric that could come out from the cuts

long linen and wool canvas dress with embossed squares, amphora line, V neck, wide over-the-wrist sleeve, belt in the same fabric, 2 side welt pockets, ‘Gregis, holes

light long coat in washed cashmere canvas doubled on squared and circle quilted nylon, crew-neck, ¾ sleeve, big semicircles hem, sash closure, 2 welt pockets, reversible

doubled dress in printed wool crêpe with transparency on the pattern underneath, boat neck with lunette placket on the back, amphora line, long sleeve, side belt, ‘Gregis’ holes

double silk crêpe dress with dark ‘storm’ multicolour printing, amphora line, over-the-wrist sleeve, V neck, sash in the same fabric, 2 side welt pockets

But also the extraordinary knitwear of the secluded Fær Øer Island, with the handicraft of Gudrun & Gudrun, or a more local Made in Italy product, with the sober and functional selection of ApuntoB (pictures coming soon!).

Amazement, looking for something new, the first deliveries cheer up the desires, soothed by the hot weather, of see ourself inside garments up to our thoughts, still unseen and un-imagined!

Something new in the shop?

If some days before the summer begins someone has already started to ask for the new arrivals, maybe we need to stimulate a greater curiosity about what our collections have still to say.

With the help of our tutor Sari let’s try to welcome the hottest season with some of the many combinations experimented and discovered in the shop, alternative to the others already observed, maybe more suitable for the every day life, for sure not so predictable. A quick tour around the possibilities of putting together different designers, also from the past years, functional to complete with unexpected actuality the more contemporary garments.

Vivienne Westwood Red Label cotton jacquard sweater with squares in different shades, draped ring collar, American shoulder, sleeveless.

Forme D’Expression 5 pockets trousers in washed and treated hemp with chromatic tone changes, horizontal parallel stitchings on the knees, button closure, belt loops, soft fit.

‘Classic BaoBao’ Issey Miyake squared shopping bag made of triangular plates of glossy-shining PVC repeated with origami calculations on a polyester net base, adjustable dovetailed handles, an inner pocket with zip, side 34 x 34 cm

Trippen flat shoe in flatted cowhide leather, essential line with inner edge higher on a side, two separated rubber shells sole.

Comme des Garçons t-shirt in gold foil print polyester jersey with irregular folds and padded bands at the hem, straight shape, round neck, dropped shoulder.

Comme des Garçons knee-length divided skirt in high-tech treated polyester fabric, stitched brace, balloon line, two welt side vertical pockets, zip and button closure, cut raw frayed belt, horizontal stitching along the leg.

Zucca Oxford shoes in see-through plastic and heel protection in red leather, with strings, small perspiring holes on the front, rubber covered sole.

Vivienne Westwood Gold Label oversize vest in cotton jersey with ‘Wallace Collection’ printing on the front and stripes and comics on the back, wide rounded neck and wide armhole, narrow shoulder straps, rounded hem.

Issey Miyake stretch organzine band top with contrast tone sheer tulle band, shape fit.

Yohji Yamamoto cigarette trousers in linen and viscose etamine, zip and button closure, 2 diagonal pockets on the front, 2 patch pockets on the back, belt with adjustable buttons.

Bao Bao issued Miyake big shoulder post-bag with opaque PVC triangular plates repeated trough an origami calculation on a net and polyester canvas base, adjustable shoulder belt, snap closure with inner hook, outer zip pocket, 2 inner small pockets, l 40 cm x h 30 cm.

Trippen flat shoe in vegetable-tanned calf leather, wax finish treated, fold detail on the vamp, two cups rubber outsole.

Comme des Garçons niki top with torn stripes in polyester georgette on a cotton base, crew-neck, sleeveless, central zip closure on the back and side zip, irregular hem.

Comme des Garçons technical treated polyester divided skirt, stitched brace, side draping, asymmetric stitchings, cut raw trimmings at the belt, one side vertical welt pockets on the hip, zip closure on the side.

June Watanabe man style lace up shoes in white leather with small triangles pattern perforated, pointed toe, leather sole.

Vivienne Westwood Gold Label t-shirt made by two different fabric rectangles printed with a ‘mixed-up’ floral printing: one in cotton jersey, one in silk, boat neck, winglet sleeve, cut raw edgings, wearable front/back.

Vivienne Westwood Anglomania pure linen canvas trousers, curled at the belt with sash, buttons closure, two vertical welt pockets, medium width leg.

Bao Bao Issey Miyake rectangular shoulder bag with glossy PVC triangular plates repeated trough an origami calculation on a net and polyester canvas base, double adjustable handle, 3 inner small pockets, zip closure, smooth bottom with 4 metal plates, l 41 cm x h 28 cm.

Trippen thong sandal with elk soft leather strings interlaced till the ankle, side strap closure, rubber rounded sole in contrasting colour.

Photography by Sari Milan.

Also an occasion to introduce you our Francesca, young IVO MILAN new entry, a precious backing for our communications and the online store replies…

So we tried new matching, putting together different ideas, colours and fibres. In a new and interesting dialogue between them, the silhouettes of our aficionados, Yohji Yamamoto, Junya Watanabe, Rick Owens, Daniela Gregis, get in touch with the new experimentations of the Korean brand Forme d’Expression, expressive talent produced in Italy, and draw themselves alongside the eclectic British tailoring of Vivienne Westwood, the great new entry of this spring/summer with the Gold and the Red Label. The pictures here below can guide you and maybe inspire you in the discovery of the fabrics, the cuts, the volumes you will find in the shop in the next months. Enjoy it!

Forme d’expression top shirt in chambray iridescent cotton gauze, sleeveless, wide and draped neck, draped around the waist, fitted at the waist line, wider and symmetric bottom.

Forme d’expression longuette skirt in linen with Pollock type “scribble” print, bell shape, longer on the sides, wallet closure emphasised with a button, side pockets.

Rick Owens wool etamine jacket with shawl jacket with draped silk lapels, single breasted, single button closure, slightly fitted at the waist, two small pockets on the front, two slits on the back, inside pockets, lined.

Trippen boot in cowhide leather and rubber sole, vamp with stripes, zip closure on the back of the ankle.

Vivienne Westwood – Red Label crêpe de chine heart print short shirt , short sleeves adjustable with a small button on the shoulder, thin line, hole on the front between the first and the second button, rounded bottom.

Vivienne Westwood – Red Label basketweaved linen and viscose high waist trousers, soft line with darts, equipped with brace/belt, with loops, button and zip closure, two side welt pockets, a small diagonal pocket with button on the back, roll up bottom. 

Trippen high clog with cowhide leather bands and enamelled wood sole covered with non-slip rubber, leather band with velcro closure, heel height 7,5 cm.

Junya Watanabe cotton jersey top, boat neck, sleeveless, close-fitting line, curled with a spiral movement.

Junya Watanabe leatherette long skirt with disassembled and re-sewn jeans application in printed “etno navaho” denim, flared and asymmetric line, fringed bottom.

La Molla necklace in stainless steel.

Daniela Gregis wide fit shirt in silk crepe de chine, boat neckline, elbow length sleeves with internal split, 2 internal side pockets, doubled over and raw cut profiles, 2 small side splits on the hem.

Daniela Gregis jacket in embossed cotton with two-colour vertical stripes, in white and vanilla, crew-neck, slightly double breasted, closure with button-up collar, a side pocket sewn onto the hem, splits on the sleeve hem, straight fit.

Yohji Yamamoto garçon style trousers in light slashed poplin cotton, overturned belt, soft line with darts, belt loops, buttons and zip closure, two diagonal side pockets, two small pockets with buttons on the back.

Rosa Mosa cotton canvas pois print and leather sneakers with rubber sole.