Opportunities to showcase the work of Junya Watanabe, the Japanese designer historically produced by the Maison Comme des Garçons, have been plentiful. He was among the illustrious guests at the Radical Fashion exhibition at the Victoria and Albert Museum in London back in 2001, which also inspired the homonymous publication.

Elements such as origami, metal detailing, and eco-leather are repeatedly used to create a strongly recognizable language that sits at the intersection of avant-garde cyber-metropolitan trends and the visual arts.

According to the philosophy established by the Japanese school—from Rei Kawakubo to Issey Miyake, Yohji Yamamoto, and others—the dress transcends its simple decorative function, of medium and filter for social representation, instead becomes a creative opportunity and a textile device of complex realization.

For the current Fall/Winter season, Watanabe’s patchworks of matter evoke the ostentatious yet irresponsible luxury of snake skin, but in his hands, everything is a construct. The shapes, innovative and sculptural, articulate poetics that stand in stark contrast to any vulgarity. Silhouettes expand, as seen in the ‘spatial’ coat, whose expertly balanced volume takes the form of a spiral cape made from faux leather sewn onto heavy wool melton. Alternatively, they soften in a more subdued version with dropped sleeves. The dry eco-leather dress, essentially a long vest that can be layered over simpler outfits, does not shy away from more explicit elements of femininity. Unmissable the denim, with the collaboration with Levi’s, deconstructed and recomposed following the theme of the season.

This bold rhythm is a symphony of high notes and more subdued tones, a laborious composition between everyday contexts far removed from boredom and more vibrant and expressive social events.

For several years now Rei Kawakubo, in Comme des Garçons art, has exclusively dedicated to clues, atmospheres and evocation her own representation of the ongoing collection. Emancipated of any kind of obligation towards the expectations of the global audience, the Japanese designer delights with her exhibitions that are closer to the art world rather than the sector of belonging.  The runway is not dedicated to garments but to textile provocations, architectonic structures that surround the sacrificed bodies of models lend to carry oversized sculptures, deliberately cumbersome and disproportionate compared to the available space.

Impossible not to ask yourself why or what is the plausible message content in this artistic drift. Maybe a self-granted freedom of expression, against the monotonous limits forced by the reality of the female body, or a subtle provocation versus a star-system hat becomes increasingly uncritical and exhibitionist. Certainly the dialog has not the purpose of selling. The pared garments are indeed extraordinary pieces of contemporary art that belong in museums or wealthy collectors. The runway show is an idea, a suggestion of the inspiring motif of the season which will be found later translated and much wearable in the development in the show-room. For Autumn/Winter 2016-2017 we witness then poetic collage of antique fabrics, floral tapestries that catapult the public in the XVIII century, the Age of Enlightenment, the rematch of reason over ignorance and superstition.

Rei Kawakubo, however, is not nostalgic and well-mannered, the collage is held together by metal snap buttons, by cuts and raw seams, diagonals that fragment the decorative harmony of time, implying elements defined by herself  as Punk, in the most provocative meaning of the term.

Synthetic leather, studs, constant asymmetries  and details that can be observed in the motives sewed on skirts, in the curvatures of the nodal points of the joints, reinforced as if they were textile armatures. And extensions, adjustable connecting rings, a flexibility in disassembling and reassembling, a continuously adjustable area in lengths and a delicate balance between order and disorder. It is not said that we can return to the original reconstruction, that many the alternatives are. Modernity and tradition, they also alternate in the processing, the ancient Japanese knowing collaborates with the most daring experimentations of the multi-layerd polyester cloth with rayon, cupro and cotton panels, in an encounter that observes how the material determinants and imposes the final shape of the piece, whether is a jacket, skirt or coat.

Needless to assume how Rei Kawakubo, in preparing an original and personal temporal syncretism, punk and Enlightenment, thinks of women determined to stay in their own time with the vigor and exuberance of who has a critical and imaginative independency

Junya Watanabe Spring/Summer 2016 runway details, Dazed & Confused dazeddigital.com.

(Dress and necklace coming soon.)

We always brought to light the Junya Watanabe’s peculiar interpretative ability in establishing, in the form of dress, the predominant stresses of our time. Post-modern, cyber-punk, tailor-philosopher of an age crossed by very fast transformations, where, from collection to collection, plastics and brand new materials, parts of abandoned industrial landscapes, occurred, to give shape to his personal metabolization and to his interpretation of the contemporaneity.

For the Spring/Summer 2016 the Rei Kawakubo-Comme des Garçons’ favourite, still produced by the Japanese Maison, welcomed his public in an emblematic space of pressing social themes, the Musée de l’Histoire de l’Immigration of Paris.

Il Musée de l’Histoire de l’Immigration of Paris on the cover of Junya Watanabe S/S 2016 lookbook.

An important clue, a sensitive container of the present restrictive instincts of a continent in a state of alert for the imposing migratory phenomenon of which is witness. A suggestion and also an invitation to change the prospective through which we perceive the present, from an emergency point of view to an enrichment one, the one that only a flow of people and therefore of culture could offer, as the time has been able to testify.

And it’s the most problematic and hot continent to be celebrated and evoked, translated by the usual Watanabe’s modern glance. African and electro sonorities go along on the runway with the vivaciousness of the colours and of the decorations: very warm reds or clear, intense blues; kaftans and zebra-stripes dresses, tunics and shirts, garments able to face the highest temperatures, but also able to prepare us for more relaxed and evolved holidays.

Constant asymmetries, elliptic constructions, experimental leopard spots on Japanese paper and complex fabric movements at the hem bring Africa and its chromatic, formal and symbolic qualities into the metropolitan and stateless circuits, where any traditional aesthetic contaminate and regenerate itself in peculiar, as independent, anthropological expressions.

Junya Watanabe long kaftan dress in light polyester canvas with horizontal stripes ‘décor’ style and aluminium bangles, wide crew-neck, wide flared sleeve, big metallic bangles on the cuffs detachable with laces and loops.

Junya Watanabe zebra-striped dress coming soon.

Junya Watanabe multi-layers rings necklace from the bigger to the smaller in shiny polyurethane and polyester imitation leather, it could be placed along the shoulders.

Photography from Junya Watanabe S/S 2016 lookbook.

Junya Watanabe asymmetric robe manteau dress in polyester organza with tone on tone small spots processing in Japanese paper, wide half-closed shirt neck, ¾ flared sleeve, buttons closure till the bottom, spiral construction.

Junya Watanabe 5 pockets jeans-like leggings in light stretch linen and polyurethane canvas, over-the-ankle length, zip and button closure, belt loops.

Massimo Giussani man shoe in cowhide leather entirely hand-painted with two colours one shading on the other, with laces and tongue with inner elastic band, leather sole painted in the same colours of the upper part.

Junya Watanabe long and wide shirt in light ramié canvas, raglan shoulder, long sleeve, sack line on the back and straight on the front.

A punto B long trousers in cotton poplin, elastic band and light curling at the band, welt vertical side pockets.

Massimo Giussani man shoe in cowhide leather entirely hand-painted with two colours one shading on the other, with laces and tongue with inner elastic band, leather sole painted in the same colours of the upper part.

Junya Watanabe long and wide shirt in light ramié canvas, raglan shoulder, long sleeve, sack line on the back and straight on the front.

A punto B wide linen canvas trousers, elastic band and light curling at the belt, welt vertical side pockets.

Classic’ Trippen ankle-length boot in soft elk leather with rounded tip, diagonal zip on the upper part, side zip closure, removable cork insole, rubber sole.

Junya Watanabe wide tunic in light ramié canvas, shirt neck with half-closed closure, flared line with stiff band, sack shape with central upside down V stitching and on the back at the bottom.

Junya Waatanabe 5 pockets jeans-like leggings in light stretch linen and polyurethane canvas, over-the-ankle length, zip and button closure, belt loops.

Massimo Giussani man shoe in cowhide leather entirely hand-painted with two colours one shading on the other, with laces and tongue with inner elastic band, leather sole painted in the same colours of the upper part.

Junya Watanabe wide tunic in light cotton canvas, crew-neck with back small button, flared line with stiff band, sack shape with side stitching towards the inside at the bottom.

Junya Waatanabe 5 pockets jeans-like leggings in light stretch linen and polyurethane canvas, over-the-ankle length, zip and button closure, belt loops.

Massimo Giussani man shoe in cowhide leather entirely hand-painted with two colours one shading on the other, with laces and tongue with inner elastic band, leather sole painted in the same colours of the upper part.

Top 132 5. Issey Miyake spring/summer 2016.

Despite the slow, endless moving forward of the winter, in the shop the season sales introduce and overlap the joyful arrival of the next Spring/Summer. An impressive Trippen delivery makes us guess the incoming chromatic presences and, for the first time in Europe, the 132 5. Issey Miyake origami lines, anticipates the most clever developments of the extraordinary Japanese Maison!

Trippen shoes spring/summer 2016 lined up ready to be photigraphed.

Top 132 5. Issey Miyake spring/summer 2016.

1 One-dimensional

3 Three-dimensional

2 Shape

5 Body

But also Daniela Gregis, Comme des Garçons, Junya Watanabe are waiting for their turn of being shot and added to our online catalogue…

Junya Watanabe spring/summer 2016

The well-curated Daniela Gregis packaging.

Hand-woven Daniela Gregis bag in wicker and vichy spring/summer 2016.

The first arrivals of Comme des Garçons, Daniela Gregis, Junya Watanabe and 1 3 2 5.Issey Miyake waiting to be photographed  for our online catalogue.

And after these fleeting, as confused, new arrivals previews, the rigid temperatures allow us to still dwell upon the many winter possibilities… Outfits provided by the knowledge of months of experimentations, revelations and fittings with the shop customers. Often unique pieces, of impossible to find design, being timeless they are combinable with garments from the past winters, a strategic and gratifying finishing to our refined wardrobes.

Vivienne Westwood Red Label long and heavy sweater in malfilè wool, cotton, polyamide and acrylic with big contrasting triangles, wide crew-neck.

Vivienne Westwood Anglomania short pants-style miniskirt in polyester and elastane canvas with  a worn-out velvet effect printing, inner buttons closure, outer buttons diagonal closure, 2 side pockets, central back slit.

Vivienne Westwood Anglomania viscose and spandex leggings with Union Jack printing.

Vivienne Westwood Mantero big scarf in acrylic and wool big thread loom weft with squares pattern, fringes along the edges, l 200 cm x h 55 cm.

Trippen ankle boot in soft suede cowhide leather slightly creased on the instep, side zip closure, new ‘spot’ sole with two rubber blocks and non-slip base made on iron stamp.

Y’s Yohji Yamamoto wide coat in loom worked wollen multicolour cloth, single-breasted, half-closed crew-neck, frayed edges, two diagonal vertical pockets, press buttons closure.

Y’s Yohji Yamamoto long, wide and asymmetric sweater in knitted wool with a light bouclé effect, turtle-neck with V opening on the front, horizontal ribbing on the breast and on the shoulder, diagonal point at the bottom, side stitching, one side slit, asymmetric line.

Y’s Yohji Yamamoto spencer jacket in wool gabardine with cuff and hem bands, single-breasted with lapels, two vertical welt pockets.

Y’s Yohji Yamamoto wide, large and asymmetric divided skirt in light pale multicolour wool canvas, with brace, one vertical welt pockets, zip and drawstring side closure.

Yohji Yamamoto wide stole in knitted wool and nylon worked with stitched ribbed fringes, fringes at the far ends, l 216 cm x h 70 cm.

Trippen ankle-boot in cowhide leather with new ‘spot’ sole with two rubber blocks and non-slipper base made on iron stamps, vertical elastic bands from the sole to the ankle.

Yohji Yamamoto short cardigan in light knitted wool, polyamide and viscose with abstract-geometrical texture, zip closure, drop-shaped neck, wider on the side, hem band, wide kimono sleeve.

Yohji Yamamoto short jersey and gabardine wool dress, tight-fitting t-shirt bodice with wide draped fabric sewn at the neck and adjustable, long sleeve.

Yohji Yamamoto classic twill trousers printed with artist Yasuto Sasada drawings, tight at the bottom, 2 front diagonal pockets and 2 welt pockets with small button on the back, zip and button closure, belt loops and inserted strap with buckle, lined.

Trippen ankle boot in soft suede cowhide leather slightly creased on the instep, side zip closure, new ‘spot’ sole with two rubber blocks and non-slip base made on iron stamp.

Rick Owens sculpture padded jacket longer on the sides in polyamide with an horizontal pleating processing, geometrical stitching on the front, single-breasted with wide triangular lapels, three snaps buttons closure.

Issey Miyake wool and polyurethane crêpe stretch trousers with contrasting colour belt, two diagonal pockets, two welt pockets on the back, diagonal panel stitched on the front, two buttons and zip side closure, soft line.

Trippen ankle-boot in washed and treated cowhide leather with three blocks heel, side zip closure, wide sole, instep upper part higher on the back.

Junya Watanabe mohair sweater with ribbed pyramid origami in wool and polyester along the sleeves and the shoulders, crew-neck, band on the cuffs, neck and at the bottom.

Junya Watanabe knee-length wide full skirt with rounded large pleats in wool flannel, side closure with zip and hook.

Shu Moriyama short and wide jacket in embossed wool canvas with patterns in two different colours, crew-neck, single-breasted with press buttons.

Andrea Cortella rew-neck sweater in stitched Cashwool extra fine Merino wool with pyramid shaped points on the front, knitted band at the bottom, on the cuffs and on the neck, straight line.

Issey Miyake skirt in steam stretch pleated bicolour polyester and polyurethane with a narrow crystal effect, elastic band at the belt, wide and flared line, two welt pockets, reversible and wearable as a cape.

‘Classic Trippen’ ankle boot in oiled suede cowhide leather with strings and small hooks, removable cork insole, rubber sole.

Issey Miyake pleated garments.

Junya Watanabe and Comme des Garçons garments.

Gudrun & Gudrun knitwear.

Gudrun & Gudrun open jacket style cardigan in heavy knitted alpaca, dropped stitching working on the shoulder and along the sleeve.

Y’s Yohji Yamamoto long divided skirt in cotton canvas with vertical stitched pleats, 2 diagonal side welt pockets, zip and button closure.

Vivienne Westwood Mantero big scarf in acrylic and wool big thread loom weft with squares pattern, fringes along the edges, l 200 cm x h 55 cm.

Trippen ankle boot in drummed cowhide leather and traditional Japanese sole, parallel stratifications effect on the upper instep, zip closure, traditional rubber Japanese sole.

Forme D’Expression wide pea coat in damask wool cloth with checks, shawl neck, shorter on the back, points on the front, pointed bottom, closure with button on the neck or on the side.

Boboutic short sweater in knitted extra fine wool, polyamide and yak, with irregular weft thread in a different colour at the bottom and on the sleeves, crew-neck with band, band on the cuffs and at the hem, soft line.

Forme D’Expression wool jersey trousers with waistband and knee-length doubled leg, soft line, two side welt pockets and one patch pocket on the back.

Forme D’Expression high closed neck warmer in doubled knitted soft wool and cashmere in two different colours inside-outside, reversible.

Kate Sheridan rectangular backpack in waterproof British Millerain with leather adjustable shoulder straps, flap and adjustable leather ribbon closure, internal open pockets and internal zip pocket, h 43 cm x l 38 cm.

Daniela Gregis egg-shaped handmade sweater in straight stitched mohair and silk, wide crew-neck, long sleeve, neck, hem and cuffs with ribbed edge.

Daniela Gregis calf-length skirt in double wool crêpe with dark ‘storm’ printing, cut out hem, waistband at the belt, curled at the waist.

Trippen ankle boot in treated and washed cowhide leather, winglet with a pleat effect on the side, turn-up at the ankle, inner zip closure, two shell rubber sole.

Reinhard Plank medium-brimmed bowler hat in waxed and varnished lapin felt with a ‘rock’ effect.

Photography by Sari Milan.

Comme des Garçons by Paolo Roversi for Vogue Paris, October 2015

We would like to point out an interesting interview to Rei Kawakubo, Comme des Graçons designer and founder of the Maison that, besides the lines carrying the name (Comme des Garçons, Comme des Garçons-Comme des Garçons) produces Junya Watanabe, Noir-Kei Ninomiya and in the past Tao Kurihara. A not pretty commercial experience, but rather made of creativity and experimental research around clothing.

Not only some indications about the inspiring theme of the Autumn/Winter 2015-16 collection, ‘Ceremony of Separation’, but most of all a precious point of view on the meaning that an high creativity valence dress could embody and on the creativity process which supports it. A synthetic analysis on the possible physiological aspects turned up by wearing clothes that launch continuous challenge to our minds and on the hard exercise of constantly inventing ever seen works…

From the very creation of her line Comme des Garçons in 1969, the Japanese designer Rei Kawakubo has upended, reimagined, and revolutionized the codes and concepts of what fashion is and what it can be. Now 73, Kawakubo is no less visionary, still “drowning in the dark,” as she describes it, in search of something new.

TELL US ABOUT THE THEME OF THE FALL COLLECTION: I called it the Ceremony of Separation. It’s about how the beauty and power of ceremony can alleviate the pain of separating, for the one departing as well as for the one saying goodbye.

HOW DO YOU WANT PEOPLE TO FEEL WHEN THEY WEAR COMME DES GARCONS? What someone wears is an expression of oneself. When you’re just comfortable with what you’re wearing, you don’t have new thoughts. I want people to feel something and think about who they are. You can’t become truly free if you no longer think about clothes. You need to occasionally wear something strong, and that can feel strange. It makes you aware of your existence and can reaffirm your relationship with society. I think people feel a minute current running through them as they come into contact with something made by someone exploring the limits. When you put on clothes that are fighting against something, you can feel your courage grow. Clothing can set you free.

WHAT IS YOUR CREATIVE PROCESS I’m always looking to make something that didn’t exist before, fumbling about in the dark, not just while making a collection. The search for something new is a constant in my everyday life. But constantly searching for something new is like looking for a well in a desert. It is like drowning in the dark, but creation is what I built Comme des Garçons on. For a collection, I need to push myself into a corner and find a way to get over the walls. The ideas are born disconnectedly, incoherently, and slowly, slowly, a final image emerges.

IS FASHION AN ART FORM? When fashion is driven by creation, I suppose it can be called an art form. But I have no concept of art in my work. Clothes are only completed when somebody actually wears them. If they were art, they could be more abstract. As long as something is new and has never been seen before, I don’t mind if people call it art. Wear them if you dare.

HOW DO YOU BALANCE ART AND COMMERCE? Comme des Garçons is a company founded on creation, but the link to business cannot be ignored. As the designer who is also head of the company, I have been able to “design” the company based on these same values. I want to take ultimate responsibility for the things I make and follow through everything right up to the end. What emerged, therefore, was a single decisive and coherent idea. Creation is our business.

DO YOU HAVE AN ULTIMATE GOAL? There is no end and no goal. As long as I’m attempting to make something that never existed before, an end is out of the question.

HOW IMPORTANT IS VISUAL COMMUNICATION? Extremely. I don’t trust words.

WHAT IS BEAUTY? Beauty should bring excitement.

Rei Kawakubo for Interview Magazine, October 2015 http://www.interviewmagazine.com/fashion/rei-kawakubo-1#_

Our selection for Autumn/Winter 2015-16 collection:

Comme des Garçons calf-length dress in rayon velvet hand-cut lace with embroidered flowers, crew-neck, sleeveless, zip and hook back closure, slim fit cut at the waist.

Junya Watanabe wide corolla cape in wool jersey floral origami, zip closure.

Comme des Garçons man jacket in embroidered lace of washed cotton and polyester, single-breasted with lapels, joined at the bottom with an overlapping flap, one small button on the neck, two patch pockets, small back slit.

Comme des Garçons man trousers with darts in creased high-tech polyester fabric, very wide leg with turn-up at the hem, zip and two buttons closure, two side welt pockets, two back welt pockets, one with button, belt loops.

Comme des Garçons calf-length dress in treated high-tech polyester fabric, wide line cut at the belt with back pleating, jacket with lapels bodice and joined flap, two horizontal welt pockets.

Trippen low-cut shoe in soft cowhide leather with overlapping diagonal crossed flap on the instep, new ‘spot’ sole with two rubber blocks and non-slipper base made on iron stamps.

Comme des Garçons wool jacket larger at the bottom, single-breasted, central buttons, shirt rounded neck, raglan shoulder, squared raw cut holes with polyurethane ribbons in contrasting colour.

Comme des Garçons divided skirt in glossy silk and wool gabardine, balloon style, 2 side welt pockets, drawstring and elastic band at the belt, arch-shaped stitchings conferring wideness.

Comme des Garçons man jacket in treated high-tech polyester fabric, single-breasted with lapels, joined at the bottom with an overlapping flap, one small button on the neck, two patch pockets, small back slit.

Comme des Garçons Comme des Garçons wide divided skirt in treated high-tech polyester fabric with vertical stripes weft, waistband and elastic band at the belt, side vertical pockets, flared on the sides.

Comme des Garçons calf-length dress in stiff wool and silk satin with see-through cloud lace inserts in jacquard cotton lace, crew-neck, sleeveless, wide egg line, side welt pockets, side zip closure.

Comme des Garçons doubled sweater in nylon tulle on the inside coming out at the bottom and from the cuffs, and on the outside in three-dimensional knitted alpaca and wool with inside/outside cones, rounded neck, slim fit.

Comme des Garçons divided skirt in glossy silk and wool gabardine, balloon style, 2 side welt pockets, drawstring and elastic band at the belt, arch-shaped stitchings conferring wideness.

Trippen shoe in soft cowhide leather, slightly overlapped and asymmetric closure with laces, classic sole in non-slip rubber with rounded toe.

Comme des Garçons short shirt in treated polyester poplin, crew-neck, with horizontal stitching at the bottom, slim fit, long sleeve, central and side zip, darts on the front, on the back and at the breast.

Comme des Garçons divided skirt in glossy silk and wool gabardine, balloon style, 2 side welt pockets, drawstring and elastic band at the belt, arch-shaped stitchings conferring wideness.

Comme des Garçons calf-length divided skirt in embroidered lace of washed cotton and polyester, wide fit, a leg shorter than the other, drawstring and elastic band at the belt, 2 side welt pockets, could be wear entering just one leg.

“Exploring dimensionality through clothing” has laically synthesized the spokesman of the Japanese designer in a pedantic announcement after the Autumn/Winter fashion show 2015-16 held at the Palais du Tokyo in Paris last 7th March.

Not new to astonishing textile exercises Junya Watanabe, Rei Kawakubo’s favorite and still produced by the Comme des Garçons maison, in fact made his debut enchanting the audience with poetic floral structure to wear.

Yet the developing of the origami theme assumes today a different character, in certain aspects less ethereal, more conceptual and nearer to the immaterial and complex dimension of the algorithmic logic, where recursive and homogeneous series determinate almost perfect extensions.

Soft wool jersey spheres, of which three-dimensionality has been realized trough the obsessive repetition of a basic geometric pattern, decorate necks, dresses bottoms and sweaters or just stand as independent architectures in the cases of capes and scarves.

In different experiments it’s the strictness of the pyramidal geometry, starting from an essential volumetric unit of measure, to be recomposed in polyester sateen sculptural jackets.

The calculation obsession is showed off by complex and abstruse mathematic functions tattooed in the few free skin glimpses of the models on the runway: hands, ankles reveal the impetuosity of an irrepressible numeric word.

Junya Watanabe Autumn/Winter 2015-16 Runway Details

Source: style.com http://www.style.com/fashion-shows/fall-2015-ready-to-wear/junya-watanabe

Nature and culture, order and chaos, co-existing dichotomy from the revelations of the most modern physics, are translated into harmonious decorative fabric abstractions.

The most cyber and post-modern of the Japanese designers seems going to the fractal complex theoretical visions, he’s experimenting a fabric expression to wear with its usual and peculiar visionary character, in certain case even in the routine of the everyday life, taking us with bewilderment and well in advance respect the others towards unimaginable future horizons.

Junya Watanabe wool jersey dress with wide corolla neck in three-dimensional origami, soft fit, sleeve tight to the waist, wearable also as a t-shirt.

Junya Watanabe hip-length sculpture cape with pyramid origami in polyester sateen, hook closure, oval gab on the back, lined.

Junya Watanabe calf-length striped dress in light wool jersey with three-dimensional origami half-moon bottom, crew-neck, shorts pants on the inside, back zip closure.

Junya Watanabe classic man shirt in horizontal pleated cotton and polyester, rounded hem, cuff with button, central button closure, shirt neck.

Junya Watanabe calf-length skirt in origami polyester taffetas, elastic band at the waist, reversible, tighter on a side at the hem, flared on the other side, reversible and wearable as a cape.

Junya Watanabe Oxford style shoe in oiled and suede cowhide leather with an aged effect, strings closure, 2 shells rubber sole.

Junya Watanabe hip-length cardigan in light wool jersey with shawl floral origami neck, long sleeve, central small buttons closure.

Junya Watanabe cape jacket in polyester sateen, turtle-neck, single-breasted, ¾ sleeve, flat on front, wide back with waves and darts, central buttons closure.

Junya Watanabe classic man shirt in horizontal pleated cotton and polyester, rounded hem, cuff with button, central button closure, shirt neck.

Junya Watanabe calf-length skirt in origami polyester taffetas, elastic band at the waist, reversible, tighter on a side at the hem, flared on the other side, reversible and wearable as a cape.

Junya Watanabe wide corolla cape in wool jersey floral origami, zip closure.

Junya Watanabe classic man shirt in horizontal pleated cotton and polyester, rounded hem, cuff with button, central button closure, shirt neck.

straight pleated calf-length dress with diagonal multicolour fantasy

Despite of the resolute summer pace, with an alternation -in Italy at least- of anticyclones, here in the shop are appearing the first Autumn arrivals.

Important returns: Issey Miyake, with a pre-collection that anticipates magisterial exercises of the Maison for the the winter season

straight pleated top with diagonal multicolour fant, long bat sleeve, V neck, rounded hem

pea coat with hexagonal three-dimensional pleating made with the steam stretch technique, wide lapel, 2 hooks closure with straps, 2 vertical welt pockets

wool and polyurethane crêpe stretch trousers with contrasting colour belt, 2 diagonal pockets, 2 welt pockets on the back, diagonal panel stitched on the front, 2 buttons and zip side closure, soft line

calf-length a-poc bicolour tunic dress, ¾ sleeve, amphora line, boat neck

t-shirt in a-poc bicolour fabric, cowl neck, soft line, wider at the hem, ¾ sleeve

stretch polyester and wool jeans-like trousers with small checks texture, 2 darts on the front, 2 side welt pockets, zip and button closure

small bucket bag in bicolour stiff soften and shiny polyester pleating, origami shape with three-dimensional star effect, string closure, small leather shoulder strap

Junya Watanabe with substantial anticipations of the poetic origami theme

waist-length sculpture cape with pyramid origami in polyester sateen, hook closure, oval gab on the back, lined

calf-length striped dress in light wool jersey with three-dimensional origami half-moon bottom, crew-neck, shorts pants on the inside, back zip closure

classic man shirt in horizontal pleated cotton and polyester, rounded hem, cuff with button, central button closure, shirt neck

calf-length skirt in origami polyester taffetas, elastic band at the waist, reversible, tighter on a side at the hem, flared on the other side, reversible and wearable as a cape

wool jersey dress with wide corolla neck in three-dimensional origami, soft fit, sleeve tight to the waist, wearable also as a t-shirt

wide corolla cape in wool jersey floral origami, zip closure

classic man shirt in horizontal pleated cotton and polyester, rounded hem, cuff with button, central button closure, shirt neck

cape jacket in polyester sateen, turtleneck, single-breasted, ¾ sleeve, flat on front, wide back with waves and darts, central buttons closure

calf-length skirt in origami polyester taffetas, elastic band at the waist, reversible, tighter on a side at the hem, flared on the other side, reversible and wearable as a cape

classic man shirt in horizontal pleated cotton and polyester, rounded hem, cuff with button, central button closure, shirt neck

Together with our ‘classic’ of course: Comme des Garçons lines, easily integrable one with the other

reversible top, polyester lace on a side, on the other a sewn taffetas roses pattern, zip closure

man trousers with darts in creased high-tech polyester fabric, very wide leg with turn-up at the hem, zip and 2 buttons closure, 2 side welt pockets, 2 back welt pockets, 1 with button, belt loops

man jacket in embroidered lace of washed cotton and polyester, single-breasted with lapels, joined at the bottom with an overlapping flap, button-less, 2 patch pockets, small back slit

very much of Daniela Gregis, with sweaters and dresses solemnly pointing to the next winter, alternating silks, wool and cashmere

robe manteau in wool felt with cuts on orange crêpe de chine, flared sleeve, closure with the belt in the same fabric, semicircle cuts, reversible with fabric that could come out from the cuts

long linen and wool canvas dress with embossed squares, amphora line, V neck, wide over-the-wrist sleeve, belt in the same fabric, 2 side welt pockets, ‘Gregis, holes

light long coat in washed cashmere canvas doubled on squared and circle quilted nylon, crew-neck, ¾ sleeve, big semicircles hem, sash closure, 2 welt pockets, reversible

doubled dress in printed wool crêpe with transparency on the pattern underneath, boat neck with lunette placket on the back, amphora line, long sleeve, side belt, ‘Gregis’ holes

double silk crêpe dress with dark ‘storm’ multicolour printing, amphora line, over-the-wrist sleeve, V neck, sash in the same fabric, 2 side welt pockets

But also the extraordinary knitwear of the secluded Fær Øer Island, with the handicraft of Gudrun & Gudrun, or a more local Made in Italy product, with the sober and functional selection of ApuntoB (pictures coming soon!).

Amazement, looking for something new, the first deliveries cheer up the desires, soothed by the hot weather, of see ourself inside garments up to our thoughts, still unseen and un-imagined!

Something new in the shop?

If some days before the summer begins someone has already started to ask for the new arrivals, maybe we need to stimulate a greater curiosity about what our collections have still to say.

With the help of our tutor Sari let’s try to welcome the hottest season with some of the many combinations experimented and discovered in the shop, alternative to the others already observed, maybe more suitable for the every day life, for sure not so predictable. A quick tour around the possibilities of putting together different designers, also from the past years, functional to complete with unexpected actuality the more contemporary garments.

Vivienne Westwood Red Label cotton jacquard sweater with squares in different shades, draped ring collar, American shoulder, sleeveless.

Forme D’Expression 5 pockets trousers in washed and treated hemp with chromatic tone changes, horizontal parallel stitchings on the knees, button closure, belt loops, soft fit.

‘Classic BaoBao’ Issey Miyake squared shopping bag made of triangular plates of glossy-shining PVC repeated with origami calculations on a polyester net base, adjustable dovetailed handles, an inner pocket with zip, side 34 x 34 cm

Trippen flat shoe in flatted cowhide leather, essential line with inner edge higher on a side, two separated rubber shells sole.

Comme des Garçons t-shirt in gold foil print polyester jersey with irregular folds and padded bands at the hem, straight shape, round neck, dropped shoulder.

Comme des Garçons knee-length divided skirt in high-tech treated polyester fabric, stitched brace, balloon line, two welt side vertical pockets, zip and button closure, cut raw frayed belt, horizontal stitching along the leg.

Zucca Oxford shoes in see-through plastic and heel protection in red leather, with strings, small perspiring holes on the front, rubber covered sole.

Vivienne Westwood Gold Label oversize vest in cotton jersey with ‘Wallace Collection’ printing on the front and stripes and comics on the back, wide rounded neck and wide armhole, narrow shoulder straps, rounded hem.

Issey Miyake stretch organzine band top with contrast tone sheer tulle band, shape fit.

Yohji Yamamoto cigarette trousers in linen and viscose etamine, zip and button closure, 2 diagonal pockets on the front, 2 patch pockets on the back, belt with adjustable buttons.

Bao Bao issued Miyake big shoulder post-bag with opaque PVC triangular plates repeated trough an origami calculation on a net and polyester canvas base, adjustable shoulder belt, snap closure with inner hook, outer zip pocket, 2 inner small pockets, l 40 cm x h 30 cm.

Trippen flat shoe in vegetable-tanned calf leather, wax finish treated, fold detail on the vamp, two cups rubber outsole.

Comme des Garçons niki top with torn stripes in polyester georgette on a cotton base, crew-neck, sleeveless, central zip closure on the back and side zip, irregular hem.

Comme des Garçons technical treated polyester divided skirt, stitched brace, side draping, asymmetric stitchings, cut raw trimmings at the belt, one side vertical welt pockets on the hip, zip closure on the side.

June Watanabe man style lace up shoes in white leather with small triangles pattern perforated, pointed toe, leather sole.

Vivienne Westwood Gold Label t-shirt made by two different fabric rectangles printed with a ‘mixed-up’ floral printing: one in cotton jersey, one in silk, boat neck, winglet sleeve, cut raw edgings, wearable front/back.

Vivienne Westwood Anglomania pure linen canvas trousers, curled at the belt with sash, buttons closure, two vertical welt pockets, medium width leg.

Bao Bao Issey Miyake rectangular shoulder bag with glossy PVC triangular plates repeated trough an origami calculation on a net and polyester canvas base, double adjustable handle, 3 inner small pockets, zip closure, smooth bottom with 4 metal plates, l 41 cm x h 28 cm.

Trippen thong sandal with elk soft leather strings interlaced till the ankle, side strap closure, rubber rounded sole in contrasting colour.

Photography by Sari Milan.

It has been a while since we not coming back to the space/workshop that contains every our activity: online catalogue composition, shop windows, communications, presentations and everything in general gives life to the shop. In fact everything takes place inside the boutique in Via Santa Lucia, in Padua city centre. Here the collections selected during the buying campaign find their placement, they are interpreted and put together in combinations possible only in context where different brands live together, as happens in our space. For this reason it seems to us interesting sharing fresh seasonal glimpses that is not possible to imagine just watching the pictures on the website.

Talking about this…any suggestion to improve our job? The pictures with a darker background, lights and shades extending the garments movement, slow down the catalogue exploration or instead allow to understand with more likelihood the wearability of jackets, dresses, sweaters, etc?…

Details from the main shop window:

Y’s Yohji Yamamoto embroidered satin evening dress with small squares in polyester and rayon opened on the back, – strapless, inner bodice, central zip back closure, one high side buttons, two side slits.

Classic unisex ‘Final Home’ raincoat in nylon canvas, neck with zip and hood, vertical zips for the padded ‘cushions’ (it becomes a winter down jacket) on the front, on the back and along the arms, zip closure with double slide and press studs.

Trippen boot in cowhide leather and rubber sole, rounded tip, upper part with half-closed stripes on the front, zip closure on the ankle back.

Small shop windows:

Shopper Bao Bao Issey Miyake composta di placchette triangolari di pvc opaco replicate con calcoli origami su base in rete e tela di poliestere, doppi manici regolabili, una grande tasca interna con zip, l 34 cm x h 34 cm;

Trippen boot in cowhide leather and rubber sole, rounded tip, upper part with half-closed stripes on the front, zip closure on the ankle back.

Vertical shop window:

Vivienne Westwood Red Label two pieces dress in linen cotton canvas with diagonal checks pattern: ¾ sleeve top, curled rounded neck with drawstring, closure with fabric-covered small buttons; flared skirt, darts on the back at the hip, zip and button side closure.

Final Home polyester net blouson with zip, neck with hood, two vertical small pocket with zip, zip closure, zips along the arms and the shoulder transforming the blouson in a cape when open.

Calf-length Comme des Garçons quilted skirt in printed polyester with ‘red passion’ spots and cotton lining, curled at the waist, waist and elastic band at the belt, wide line.

Pleats Please Issey Miyake polyester vertical pleating dress doubled along the hips with triangular inlays in contrasting colour, sleeveless, V neck, flared line.

Pleats Please Issey Miyake polyester vertical pleating short jacket, straight neck, open on the front, no buttons, ¾ bat sleeve, wearable upside/down.

Trippen flat shoe in flatted cowhide leather, essential line with inner edge higher on a side, two separated rubber shells sole.

Comme des Garçions open-work waistcoat top in glossy polyurethane on the outside and polyester on the inside, crew-neck, zip side closure, straight fit, raw cut edging.

Comme des Garçons calf-length skirt with a cotton base with ‘red passion’ printed spots doubled with printed tulle with the same pattern, slightly curled, zip closure, wide line.

Yohji Yamamoto wide trousers jumpsuit in wool gabardine with rhinestone and silk braces with metallic stitched sequins, central zip closure on the front, 2 vertical welt pockets on the breast, 2 on the side and 2 on the back with flaps, side vertical buttons.

HaaT calf-length dress in high twist squared linen, boat-neck, half sleeve, panel to be buttoned on the side with buttons, back central zip, asymmetric.

Daniela Gregis ‘rectangle calf-length dress, one side in watercolour printed effect linen canvas and one in linen gauze, boat neck, flared sleeve stitched on the inside, side small buttons, same fabric belt, ‘Gregis’ hole, reversible front/back, it becomes a shawl.

Daniela Gregis waterproof silk faille overcoat with spots pattern, two patch pockets, ‘Gregis’ holes on the sides.

Daniela Gregis bags.

Reinhard Plank bonnet style hat in loom operated straw hat, narrow rolled up at the edges brim forming a rose on the side.

Mae belts.

Boboutic calf-length skirt in stocking stitched cotton, stainless-steel and viscose with in movement ring deformable threads, elastic band at the belt in contrasting colour, side welt pockets, slip.

Bao Bao Issey Miyake hold-everything purse made by PVC triangular plates repeated trough an origami calculation on a polyester base, zip closure, l 24 cm x h 12 cm.

Bao Bao Issey Miyake small rectangular shoulder bag made by platinum metallic PVC triangular plates repeated trough an origami calculation on a polyester base, small metallic detachable shoulder belt, smooth base with 2 metallic plates, l 13,5 cm x h 15,5 cm.

Photography by Sari Milan.

Comme des Garçons abstract pea coat similar to a short cape made of technical treated polyester overlapping fabric layers , flared sleeve, raw cut trimmings, strap buckle closure on the neck.

From the cold bi-dimensional light of the white colour to the tridimensional shades of the chiaroscuro, the Spring/Summer 2015 makes its debut online under new spotlights.

A turning point revealing openly an heartfelt need to amplify that narrative difference expressed by the garments composing our catalogue. An attempt to give life, longer than the static time of a flash, to the possible worlds of Rei Kawakubo-Comme des Garçons, Daniela Gregis, Yohji Yamamoto, Forme D’Expression but also the less well-known new-entries as Un-Namable, to the more renowned proposals of Vivienne Westwood.

Trying to compensate for the less light with thousands of photos available, we invite you to reflect more, to observe and, who knows, finally to bring nearer the same evocative atmosphere of the shop in Padua.

Daniela Gregis waterproof silk faille overcoat with spots pattern, two patch pockets, ‘Gregis’ holes on the sides.

Daniela Gregis cotton gauze calf-length dress, boat neck, sleeveless, bodice with vertical and horizontal seams with a loom effect, wide doubled skirt, side vertical welt pockets, ‘Gregis’ holes on the sides, sash in the same fabric.

Trippen white lace up shoes in vegetable-tanned calf leather treated with wax finish, wood wedge with para rubber sole.

Daniela Gregis dress with knitted cotton bodice and doubled skirt in embossed vicky cotton and striped silk, boat neck, ¾ sleeve, two side vertical welt pockets, ‘Gregis’ holes on the sides, reversible.

Daniela Gregis man jacket in washed linen canvas with pastel spots printing, slim fit, single-breasted with small lapels, two fabric cuff links closure, two welt pocket at the hem and one on the breast, cuff slit, two back slits.

Daniela Gregis wide double face jacket: one side in cotton liberty with small flowers and and the other one in linen, crew-neck, single-breasted, ¾ sleeve, two side vertical welt pockets, ‘Gregis’ holes on the sides, reversible.

Daniela Gregis cotton gauze calf-length dress, boat neck, sleeveless, bodice with vertical and horizontal seams with a loom effect, wide doubled skirt, side vertical welt pockets, ‘Gregis’ holes on the sides, sash in the same fabric.

Daniela Gregis wide double face jacket: one side in cotton liberty with shaded polka-dots and the other one in linen gauze, crew-neck, single-breasted, ¾ sleeve, two side vertical welt pockets, ‘Gregis’ holes on the sides, reversible.

Daniela Gregis cotton gauze calf-length dress, boat neck, sleeveless, bodice with vertical and horizontal seams with a loom effect, wide doubled skirt, side vertical welt pockets, ‘Gregis’ holes on the sides, sash in the same fabric.

Comme des Garçons calf- length sheath dress in wool worsted drapery pinstripe fabric with torn stripes on the front, rounded collar, half sleeve, zip central closure on the back.

Comme des Garçons Comme des Garçons calf-length dress in polyester georgette with ‘pixel’ effect printing, rounded collar, open on the front with buttons, two small patch pockets on the hip and patch small pocket on the breast, attached strap, long sleeve.

Comme des Garçons Comme des Garçons shopper bag in cowhide leather and double bamboo handles, metal small chain, an inner zip pocket, h 43 cm x w 37 cm.

Yohji Yamamoto silk crêpe de chine jacket with part in different plain colours and ‘ikat Laos’ printing, single-breasted, V neck, two buttons closure, one small flap pocket at the hip, one side hip-length and the one calf-length.

Y’s Yohji Yamamoto creased cotton etamine and viscose trousers, two diagonal pockets on the front and one small pocket with button on the back, belt loops, small band with side external zip at the bottom, straight line.

Trippen flat men style shoes, featuring round toe, a lace-up fastening and a cut away detail on the sides.

Y’s Yohji Yamamoto short bomber in creased cotton etamine and viscose, crew-neck, zip closure with double slide, two diagonal welt pockets with press button, knitted band at the hem and on the cuffs.

Y’s Yohji Yamamoto viscose shirt with stitched cardigan as shrug in knitted viscose and linen, side ring neck, two hidden press button closure, open under the armpit, wide line.

Y’s Yohji Yamamoto calf-length wrap skirt in poplin tencel, belt closure with three horizontal buttons, wide half-full line.

Trousers jumpsuit in doubled polyester georgette, bodice with V neck and buttons, sleeveless, man trousers with diagonal pockets, zip and stitched belt, central vertical stitching along the leg, knitted band at the bottom.

Shoe with classic “Trippen” wide sole, upper in cowhide leather with colour contrast edges and side holes with diagonal stripes “admiral rank” like, asymmetric closure with strings, rubber arch support.

Y’s Yohji Yamamoto cotton jersey t-shirt with striped cupro and polyamide overlapping panel, large staggred crew-neck on two levels, flared sleeve.

Y’s Yohji Yamamoto calf-length divided sahrouel skirt in treated and shaded cotton denim, one diagonal pocket, zip and button closure, elastic band and waistband at the belt, diagonal cut.

Shoe with classic “Trippen” wide sole, upper in cowhide leather with colour contrast edges and side holes with diagonal stripes “admiral rank” like, asymmetric closure with strings, rubber arch support.

HAAT wide cardigan in knitted cotton and paper, crew-neck, raglan shoulder, over the cuff sleeve length, fabric-covered buttons, straight line.

HAAT wide trousers in ‘tea dungaree’ jacquard cotton, wrap closure with button, zip and fabric, two pinces on the front, two vertical welt pockets on the front and horizontal on the back.

Trippen flat ankle boot in soft elk leather, featuring a round toe, bias zip detail on the vamp, side zip fastening.

HAAT light overcoat in linen, cotton and paper canvas with small a-jour embroidery on the trimmings and on the back, crew-neck, hidden press buttons closure, two side patch pockets.

HAAT very baggy sahrouel trousers in ‘special tea dungaree’ cotton canvas with sewn fabric strings, elastic band at the belt, zip and button closure on the hip, one side vertical welt pocket.

Trippen flat ankle boot in soft elk leather, featuring a round toe, bias zip detail on the vamp, side zip fastening.

PLEATS PLEASE Issey Miyake polyester vertical pleating overcoat doubled along the lapels and the hips with triangular inlays in contrasting colour, flared line, wearable upside/down.

PLEATS PLEASE Issey Miyake polyester vertical pleating dress doubled along the hips with triangular inlays in contrasting colour, sleeveless, V neck, flared line.

Trippen high clog with cowhide leather bands and wood sole.covered with non-slip rubber, leather band with velcro closure, heel height 7,5 cm.

PLEATS PLEASE Issey Miyake heavy polyester short raincoat with a vertical pleating becoming flat, hood, high neck with press buttons, zip closure, 2 side flap pockets with press button, waistband at the hem, press buttons on the cuff, amphora line.

Daniela Gregis linen canvas sarong skirt, waistband closure and two small belt loops in light fabric thread, it should be curled on the front, hem with waves.

Shoe with classic “Trippen” wide sole, upper in cowhide leather with colour contrast edges and side holes with diagonal stripes “admiral rank” like, asymmetric closure with strings, rubber arch support.

Final Home polyester net blouson with zip, neck with hood, two vertical small pocket with zip, zip closure, zips along the arms and the shoulder transforming the blouson in a cape when open.

Y’s Yohji Yamamoto creased cotton etamine and viscose trousers, two diagonal pockets on the front and one small pocket with button on the back, belt loops, small band with side external zip at the bottom, straight line.

Vivienne Westwood Red Label jacquard viscose dress with paisley and two-colours checks, large shoulder strap, low-necked, fitted bodice, back central buttons and strap closure, welt vertical side pockets, egglike bottom with large not ironed pleats.

Trippen high clog with cowhide leather bands and wood sole.covered with non-slip rubber, leather band with velcro closure, heel height 7,5 cm.

Forme D’Expression man long jacket in cotton tweed with fabric tufts outlining a geometrical pattern, single-breasted with small lapels, button closure, one button on the neck, two flap pockets at the hem, a central slit on the back.

Forme D’Expression short skirt in washed and creased linen canvas and ramie, waistband closure and side panels to be laced or on the front or on the back, two vertical welt pockets.

VeryBusy tunic sweater in knitted printed linen with a painted effect pattern, wide rounded neck, flared sleeve, a small patch pocket at the hem, band at the hem.

Y’s Yohji Yamamoto creased cotton etamine and viscose trousers, two diagonal pockets on the front and one small pocket with button on the back, belt loops, small band with side external zip at the bottom, straight line.