Teamwork, environmental ethos, experimentation and strong pragmatism, light and joy, the guidelines of a Maison built around the enlightened principles of its founder, Issey Miyake.

Issey Miyake Autumn/Winter 2015-16: runway show finale.

Against the perishing and obsolete destiny of fashion, against the fact that clothing reduces itself to a simply instrument of status and wealth affirmation, Miyake firmly believes in the rational and spacial nature of dressing up. The dress exists in function of the physicality of whom will wear it, it’s bounded to people life and daily movement. So it must match innovation and comfort criteria, because our existences proceed into space and time.

Pictures from the Pleats Please Autumn/Winter 2015-16 catalogue.

In opposition to the ‘designer mythicization’, Miyake put together a team of experts that goes ahead and experiments through the continuous exchange of information and skills. In fact only the contamination of ideas and the flow of consciousness could generate that innovation levels already became exclusive heritage of Miyake Maison.

Machines at work in Miyake Design Studio: pictures from ‘Pleats Please Issey Miyake, published by Taschen.

The creative process starts trying to solve three fundamental problems: to minimise the industrial waste starting from just one piece of fabric; to give back the three-dimensionality of the human body through the fabric bi-dimensionality and to guarantee to the other people practicality, movement and an exclusive perception of the self. Inside this frame it has developed the engineering and textile experimentations that brought to the realization of the already very famous pleating. During four decades Miyake together with its staff tested new materials, invented formal abstractions only made possible by the infinite fabric plasticity and by the high-tech machines built up over time. With the different lines, from the one carrying his name that shows the most avant-garde and poetic experimentations of the new steam stretch pleating, to Pleats Please, to Cauliflower, developed in just one size, to the Bao Bao bags, where the triangle modular repetition is the remarkable sign of an highly futuristic project, or moreover the latest 132 5. Issey Miyake (available in our shop from next Spring/Summer), in recycled pet, pressed like origami paper, Issey Miyake and his Design Studio are ambitious guests of the most prestigious contemporary art galleries.

Issey Miyake Autumn/Winter 2015-16

132 5. Issey Miyake

So we can’t be taken away from point out, for whom will have the chance to be in Tokyo between next March and next June, the unmissable exhibition hold at the National Art Center:

MIYAKE ISSEY EXHIBITION: The Work of Miyake Issey

One of the most complete overview of Issey Miyake work and on the solutions, always in evolution, developed by his prolific creative team. And for the very first time the complex productive processes that allow the realization of the different expression of the most famous pleating will be shown and explained.

An overview from our catalogue Autumn/Winter 2015-16:

Issey Miyake calf-length coat in wool and polyester squares with a ribbon effect, shirt neck, two buttons closure, two welt pockets, lined.

Bao Bao Issey Miyake big squared shopper bag made by polish PRISMA PVC triangular plates repeated trough an origami calculation on a polyester base, double adjustable handles, big inner zip pocket, l 39 cm x h 39 cm.

Y’s Yohji Yamamoto tight leg jeans trousers in creased cotton canvas, 2 welt vertical pockets, 3 patch pockets on the back with and 2 overlapped, belt loops, zip and button closure.

Vivienne Westwood Mantero big scarf in very light new wool and silk gauze with Union Jack printing, small fringes along the edges, l 132 cm x h 100 cm.

Trippen ankle boot in soft cowhide leather with laces and stripes on a side, classic no-slip rubber sole with rounded toe.

Issey Miyake rectangular shawl in steam stretch pleated polyester and polyurethane with a kaleidoscope effect, buttons on the four points, wearable both sides and in many different ways, h 70 cm x l 130 cm.

Un-Namable long and asymmetric skirt in a paper effect polyester fabric, with pleats in different directions, with press buttons.

Trippen ankle boot in soft suede cowhide leather, with a comma elastic both sides of the ankle, with 2 shells sole.

Issey Miyake skirt in stiff and narrow pleated polyester with a crystal effect, elastic band at the belt, wide and flared line, two welt pockets, wearable as a cape.

Trippen ankle boot in soft suede cowhide leather, with a comma elastic both sides of the ankle, with 2 shells sole.

Issey Miyake ribbed steam stretch pleated polyester jacket, wide shawled lapels, fitted at the waist, button closure.

Issey Miyake wool and polyurethane crêpe stretch trousers with contrasting colour belt, two diagonal pockets, two welt pockets on the back, diagonal panel stitched on the front, two buttons and zip side closure, soft line.

Trippen ankle boot in soft suede cowhide leather, with a comma elastic both sides of the ankle, with 2 shells sole.

Issey Miyake straight pleated top with diagonal multicolour pattern, long bat sleeve, V neck, rounded hem.

Issey Miyake wool and polyurethane crêpe stretch trousers with contrasting colour belt, two diagonal pockets, two welt pockets on the back, diagonal panel stitched on the front, two buttons and zip side closure, soft line.

Issey Miyake long top in  melange narrow wave pleated polyester and wool, V neck, egg line.

A punto B low crotch and low waist trousers in heavy cotton, zip and button closure, wide and moulded slightly tightening at the bottom, two vertical welt pockets.

‘Classic Trippen’ ankle boot in oiled suede cowhide leather with strings and small hooks, removable cork insole, rubber sole.

Issey Miyake top in horizontal narrow and grained bicolour pleated polyester, wide and doubled cowl neck, diagonal pleating on the breast till the sleeve.

Issey Miyake large balloon trousers in narrow wave pleated polyester, tighter at the bottom, elastic band at the belt, two side welt pockets.

Issey Miyake squared shawl in stiff and narrow pleated polyester with a crystal effect, hole closure, h 80 cm x l 87 cm.

Issey Miyake hip-length jacket in stiff and narrow bicolour pleated polyester, single-breasted, lapels with detached points stitched on the neck, button closure, pointed sleeve on the cuffs, flared line.

Issey Miyake large balloon trousers in narrow wave pleated polyester, tighter at the bottom, elastic band at the belt, two side welt pockets.

Issey Miyake wide pea coat in  narrow wave pleated polyester with a multicolour optical effect, lapels, two buttons closure, ¾ flared sleeve, egg line.

Issey Miyake wool and polyurethane crêpe stretch trousers with contrasting colour belt, two diagonal pockets, two welt pockets on the back, diagonal panel stitched on the front, two buttons and zip side closure, soft line.

Issey Miyake short and wide jacket in horizontal narrow and grained bicolour pleated polyester, single-breasted, shawl and doubled neck, button closure.

Un-Namable long and asymmetric skirt in a paper effect polyester fabric, with pleats in different directions, with press buttons.

Trippen ankle boot in soft suede cowhide leather, with a comma elastic both sides of the ankle, with 2 shells sole.

Issey Miyake hip-length jacket in narrow wave pleated polyester with a multicolour optical effect, single-breasted with lapels, buttons closure.

Issey Miyake wool and polyurethane crêpe stretch trousers with contrasting colour belt, two diagonal pockets, two welt pockets on the back, diagonal panel stitched on the front, two buttons and zip side closure, soft line.

Trippen ankle boot in soft suede cowhide leather, with a comma elastic both sides of the ankle, with 2 shells sole.

Issey Miyake bolero jacket in tridimensional pleated polyester, shawl neck with semi-circular edges pleating on the inside, button closure, ¾ flared sleeve.

Issey Miyake wool and polyurethane crêpe stretch trousers with contrasting colour belt, two diagonal pockets, two welt pockets on the back, diagonal panel stitched on the front, two buttons and zip side closure, soft line.

Issey Miyake calf-length asymmetric dress in horizontal narrow and grained bicolour pleated polyester, wide and doubled cowl neck, diagonal pleating on the breast till the sleeve.

Trippen ankle boot in soft suede cowhide leather, with a comma elastic both sides of the ankle, with 2 shells sole.

Issey Miyake top in nylon and cotton A-poc bicolour fabric, asymmetric line, boat neck, flared sleeve, soften colours, frayed hem.

Issey Miyake stretch polyester and wool jeans-like trousers with small checks texture, two darts on the front, two side welt pockets, zip and button closure.

Trippen ankle boot in soft suede cowhide leather, with a comma elastic both sides of the ankle, with 2 shells sole.

Issey Miyake calf-length nylon and cotton A-poc bicolour tunic dress, ¾ sleeve, amphora line, boat neck.

Issey Miyake small bucket bag in bicolour stiff soften and shiny polyester pleating, origami shape with three-dimensional star effect, string closure, small leather shoulder strap.

Trippen ankle boot in soft suede cowhide leather, with a comma elastic both sides of the ankle, with 2 shells sole.

He just turned seventy-six years old and he spent forty of them doing what he loves the most, the designer. And not a fashion designer but “simply” a designer as Issey Miyake prefers to be defined. During his long career he actually designed everything, from bicycles to exhibition spaces, design means life to him and designing involves create the time we are living.

So dresses are for Miyake another tool to experience, to express himself, to have fun and bring joy. Sensibility, curiosity and an undoubted ingeniousness brought him to the identification of techniques and materials so innovative that till now nobody has tried to emulate or imitate them. At the beginning of the 90’s with the launch of the Pleats Please line, Miyake brought his although simplified creations to a wider public. Similar to this operation, a new experiment is launched ten years later: Cauliflower, where the fabric surface recalls the cauliflower texture. Here ingeniousness solves the hoary problem of the sizes. A piece of clothing includes three of them and the whole collection is one size.

In the Issey Miyake Spring-Summer 2014 collection, designed by young Yoshiyuki Miyamae, the airy fabrics and the pleats turn light into something wearable. From the brighter white to the sunset-like dark red, passing by the intense blue of the sky during day-time, strips of rainbow parade on the catwalk.

The fabric experimentation dare the force of gravity with the diagonally or even radially pleating, producing in the dress unexpected drapes. The polyester fabric, usually a little bit shiny to substitute silk, becomes dull and looks like cotton. Or the warp of a light plain knitted fabric becomes pleated cloth without interruption. In this atmosphere of continuous inventions the music as well is not left to chance.

The Japanese musician Ei Wada transformed television screens into percussions, using the light and the electrostatic emitted to create the sound, composing an innovative soundtrack, absolutely in line with the spirit of this brand: there is no nostalgia or reference to the past, the look is always turned towards the future, to find solutions to new challenges and new technologies to realize them.

The first arrivals (Comme des Garçons, Junya Watanabe, Vivienne Westwood, Yohji Yamamoto, for example) for the next spring/summer season are starting to appear in store,

in anticipation of a season that is yet to arrive, and in stark contrast with a winter, which (at least in Italy) never really began. However, despite the strange seasonal patterns, the calendar never lies, and the period – like it or not – speaks clearly: we are in the heart of the coldest time of the year…

A preamble, which as you can imagine, highlights how exciting it still is to discover winter coats, their new combinations and the not to be overlooked consideration that, in their exclusive uniqueness, they are now 30-40% cheaper… with great respect for the ideas they represent and of which they are an expression, we now show you our own synthetic interpretation…

Oyuna hand knit charcoal fluffy cashmere sleeveless jacket-turn-shoulder garment, round neck, yellow cashmere decorated pin closure, asymmetric hemline

Cauliflower-Issey Miyake charcoal grey melange creased t-shirt in polyester and wool jersey, wide round neck, long sleeves

Junya Watanabe wool knit pullover with heavy weight front and lighter back, wide shape with smaller and shorter back, crew neck, drop shoulder, batwing style armhole and fitted sleeves, openwork details at the center back, ribbed neck, cuffs and hem

Issey Miyake man style tailored black coat in extra fine wool and angora, straight shape, notched lapel with navy eleather under collar, single breast with one cowhide button fastening, navy eleather welt pockets, bar stripe coloured polyester lining

Issey Miyake navy stretch denim jeans with grid-like streets cityscape jacquard pattern, copper star detail marks Issey Miyake store, classic 5 pockets details, straight leg, comfortable fit

Haat silk ribbon and wool yarn woven stole, contrast tone jacquard detail with sides felted tassels and fringe on the short sides

Trippen black wedge lace up ankle boot, vegetable-tanned, aniline-dyed calf leather with suede surface and a brushed used look, voluminous inset in softer leather, rubber segmented sole

Cauliflower-Issey Miyake colorful set shopping bag style backpack in padded polyester blend, double handle, adjustable straps, three snap button closure, one inside pocket

Zucca duffle coat in navy wool, A-line, relaxed fit, wide pointed collar with button tab, concealed zip fastening, welt slanted pockets, long slightly A-line sleeves with long zip at cuffs, wide back with centre box pleats and button half belt, full lining

Zucca lemon pullover in knit stretch mohair blend, relaxed fit, ribbed v neck at front and back, long sleeves, ribbed cuffs and hem

Zucca asymmetric skirt pants with front wrap over shorter panel, crafted in patch of pleated and plain band of khaki cupro and cotton, grey melange wool jersey and blue royal cupro, elastic waistband, above knee length

Katrien Van Hecke oversize quilted bomber jacket in hand dye silk, dye realized with airbrush and natural colours come from spices and herbs, front zip fastening, stand collar, slanted welt pockets, elasticated cuffs and hem, silk satin lining, polyester padding

Oyuna coat in charcoal cashmere knit in diagonal pattern, relaxed fit, egg shape, chimney collar, blue buttons concealed fastening only top one exposed, one slanted pocket, drop shoulder, long sleeves, knee length

Trippen black wedge lace up ankle boot, vegetable-tanned, aniline-dyed calf leather with suede surface and a brushed used look, voluminous inset in softer leather, rubber segmented sole

Y’s Yohji Yamamoto cropped down jacket in polyester taffeta, wide shape, crater like neck, double breast with side snaps button fastening, welt pockets with zip, long sleeves with inner knit ribbed cuffs, drawstring hem, goose down and feather padding

Cauliflower-Issey Miyake khaki jacket in cauliflower crinkled effect heavyweight cotton and polyurethane, notched lapel, single-breasted button front, patch pockets, long sleeves, close fitting

Y’s Yohji Yamamoto wide khaki pants in cotton twill, garment dyed, waistband with belt loops, zip and button closure, curved slit pockets, drop crotch, back darts detail and two patch pockets, one with asymmetric button flap

Oyuna super fine cashmere shawl super fine shawl in cashmere spice red blending on orange, small fringe at the shorter edge

Trippen expresso wedge boot in vegetable-tanned calf leather treated with wax finish, wood wedge with para rubber sole, side zip fastening

and, grand final… our Marisa!

Issey Miyake pleated asymmetric dress in patterned weaving colors gradation inspired by afterglow tinted sky, shift from satin to matte surface polyester, bias cut at front and back with pleated cross, herringbone effect, boat neck, drop shoulder, shorter at one side

Johnbull biker style navy cotton sweat jacket with distressed details, fitted shape, off centre zip and snaps closure, chest pocket with flap and snap, side welt pockets, shoulder tabs, long sleeves with high ribbed cuffs, elbow patch

Trippen classic feminine shoe with a front cross string, press stud fastening at the ankle, in treated nubuck leather

and with

Daniela Gregis man style jacket in blue linen and wool, garment treated, straight shape, relaxed fit, lapel and black collar, single breasted, black cotton cuff links fastening, chest and sides flap pocket, long sleeves with cuff slit, double vent at rear, unlined

The aesthetic dimension of the showcase…

We have spent many years arranging our shop window as the natural showcase for the collections that change from season to season inside the store. It is a sort of metaphysical space in which to display and show off the spectacular nature of certain apparel, and especially our own fanciful interpretation of these items. There is no way for us to be sure that the general feelings and ideas we have about the collections are conveyed in the best possible way, on the other hand, the designers themselves often leave out or simply refuse to express the possible connotations of their collections.

So that’s how it is, an entirely arbitrary composition that takes over the main window of the store each week, as well as the less imposing side windows and interior cases!

It is a general image that employs a precise aesthetic lesson provided by that singular and indefinable concept of beauty known as wabi-sabi; something that different forms of the so-called Japanese school expertly make use of in clothing. Greatly simplifying, we might say that wabi-sabi is the opposite of all that which in aesthetic terms we call ‘luxury’. Luxury is glitter, flashy and smacks of something new and artificial, it is easy to reproduce and make widely available; it has a simple and explicit message. The beauty of wabi-sabi remains open in every sense to the changing times, trends and events, making it impracticable, if not impossible, to replicate. In the words of Leonard Koren:

It is the beauty of things imperfect,

impermanent, and incomplete.

It is the beauty of things modest and humble.

It is the beauty of things unconventional.

Yohji Yamamoto, long train dress in organic cotton serge, flared shape, slit neck with pointed stand up top edge, front joke detail, sleeveless, horizontally cut at rear, tiered hem, row cut edges

Katrien Van Hecke,  dress in hand dyed silk crepe, print realized with airbrush and natural colours come from spices and herbs, round neck, center gathering folds, short sleeves, rear zip fastening, slightly flared shape, knee length

Vlas Blomme, reversible jacket, one side in shiny linen and silk and melange linen on reverse, garment washed, notched collar, front button fastening, welt chest pocket, two front flap pockets, long sleeves with slit at the hem, small vent at back

Katrien Van Hecke, oversize bomber jacket in hand dye silk crepe, print realized with airbrush and natural colours come from spices and herbs, front zip fastening, collar and hem band in knit ribbed hemp blend, slanted welt pockets, silk lining

Rick Owens, long top in rayon and silk fine jersey, front draped at one side, straight shape, loose fit, rounded v neck, dropped shoulder, short sleeves, asymmetric front hem

Trippen, ballerina in vegetable-tanned calf leather, wax finish treated, fold detail on the vamp, two cups rubber outsole

Cauliflower-Issey Miyake, stretch honey comb pleated top in multicolor mosaic pattern printed, low round neck, dropped shoulder

Deux Dans Umi, asymmetric dress in polyester and viscose jersey, irregular curved cuts patterned with draped and embossed effect, asymmetric neck line, front slanted slit detail, sleeveless, row cut edges, shorter at the back

Vlas Blomme, melange linen with bar stripe back, wide fit, shawl collar, dropped shoulder, long tapered sleeves, no fastening, upside down wearable with longer effect

Bao Bao-Issey Miyake, tote bag in multicolor flexible glossy PVC triangles, black adjustable handle, interior zipped pocket; length: 34cm, height: 34cm, handle: 38cm

Photographs by Sari Milan

Nonetheless, putting aside our timeless devotion to each individual item making up our catalogue, and despite the date that it was included, we can’t deny the enthusiasm we feel with our new arrivals.

You can be part of the pulsating rhythm we are experiencing, the various landscapes between the photographic sets, dressing and organising of our girls, Benedetta, Amanda and Katia…A peep backstage, giving advance warning of the new season that has almost arrived!

After a year of shots, recommendations and sharing of timeless clothes…our wishes for what’s to come?
…that 2013 can turn feelings, spirits and strain into profitable occasions for making life the greatest, most personal work of art!

Happy Holidays from:

Marisa, Sari, Elena, Marina, Gabriella, Soili, Orlando and our unfailing shots of the Padova shop…

OYUNA, fluffy knit cashmere shawl collar with fringe stripe pattern and twisted detail;

ISSEY MIYAKE, down padded blouson in nylon and cotton mesh with contrast tone cushioning, stand up cowl neck, double breast buttons fastening, side pockets, small fringe at the edges

Pleats Please-Issey Miyake, multicolor planetarium design printed lightweight wool stole, fringed short sides

Cauliflower-Issey Miyake, mix colour stole in shrink wool gauze, contrast tone band along two sides, fringed edges

Yohji Yamamoto, long shawl in wool gauze coupled with a shorter felted wool scarf with fringe, fringed edges

Luisa Brini, wool jacquard shawl with tartan pattern, fringed edges

Cauliflower-Issey Miyake, light weight wool stole with two panel attached on one length, one in lame gingham check, one in plain tone, fringed edges

Haat-Issey Miyake, silk ribbon and wool yarn woven stole, contrast tone jacquard detail with sides felted tassels and fringe on the short sides

Showcase of accessories: Pleats Please and Bao Bao, Issey Miyake

In the sun-drenched, baking courtyard just outside our Padua shop, among pastel walls and porticos, the colours of an ongoing summer season blend together. Clothes, hats, bags and shoes, all suitable for sultry weather without giving up your grace and originality.

Follow Sari‘s proposals and find out how to wear design clothes and be really feminine …even on sale!

Cauliflower Issey Miyake washed cotton dress, printed with graphic design, featuring a gathered bodice, wide round neck with drawstring, just above knee length, sleeveless, relaxed fit

Trippen thong sandal with doubled soft elk leather straps, ankle strap with velcro fastening, padded footbed

Scha hat in twisted seagrass

Y’s Yohji Yamamoto dress in heavy cotton gauze with shaped bodice and flare skirt, double wrapped straps, side zip fastening, curved hem, calf length shorter at side

Scha hat in double sinamay and cotton

Y’s Yohji Yamamoto hobo bag in treated calf leather, snap fastening, interior pockets, one with zip, fully lined

Marsèll “goccia” treated kangaroo leather lace-up style shoes, open toe, no lace, contrast tone rubber heel

Sacai dress with cotton jersey top and broderie anglaise skirt, low round neck with satin trim, short sleeves, drop drawstring waist and gathered skirt, side pockets, relaxed fit, light grey/white colour

Scha gold coated linen beret, knit cotton edge and lining

Peter Non sabot, Birkenstock style sole, broderie anglais cotton upper, suede lace

Rick Owens light jersey dress in double layer, low round neck, shoulder straps, gathered at the front and back, side slit pockets, self tie belt, knee length

Lgr Lunettes woman’s sun-glasses with shaded grey photochromatic lenses; frame in flexible acetate by Mazzucchelli and lenses by Barberini.

Issey Miyake lengthened pumpkin shape flexible bag in polyester satin with glass coating leather details and shoulder strap, drawstring and magnetic fastener, interior zipped pocket, full lining

Trippen flat wooden platform sandal, single strap across the toes and an ankle strap with rivet and holes closure, calf leather

Pleats Please Issey Miyake pleated jersey dress with stripe design undertone at the back, low round neck, sleeveless, just above knee length

Lgr Lunettes sun-glasses in the style of Onassis with frame in flexible acetate by Mazzucchelli and shaded photochromatic lenses by Barberini ideal for drivers.

Trippen flat wooden platform sandal, single strap across the toes and an ankle strap with rivet and holes closure, calf leather

Cosmic Wonder flowers print patch cotton dress, square neckline with gathered detail, spaghetti straps, elasticated band at rear, calf length

Scha hat in twisted seagrass

Trippen ankle high sandal with cut out design in calf leather, open toes, buckle fastening, rubber sole

Junya Watanabe lace tunic dress with floral embroidery design, boat neck with centre slash, cropped shoulder with side lace panel gathered on the shoulder falling to the hem at the front and back

Scha boater style hat in parasisal vintage, tight- brimmed, limited edition

Trippen flat wooden platform sandal, single strap across the toes and an ankle strap with rivet and holes closure, calf leather

Do you think sales just mean the present season’s end-of-the-line products?

Browsing an online catalogue that displays the same garments and suits for months on end can bore you and stifle interest.

With Sari’s help, from the Padova shop directly, let’s try mixing articles to see those same products from a different angle…items you have already seen will look completely new!

Pleats Please-Issey Miyake polyester froissé shirt, plunging v neck with button fastening, short kimono sleeves, azur colour

Y’s Yohji Yamamoto trousers jumpsuit with zip detachable band top, wide leg, drop crotch, button and zip fastening, side pockets, waistband with belt loops, patch pockets at rear, top with button fastening, chest pockets, adjustable straps at the back, in washed cotton

Issey Miyake leather and clear PVC inserts belt, stud fastening; length; white colour

Marsèll “goccia” treated kangaroo leather lace-up style shoes (not in sale) open toe, no lace, contrast tone rubber heel; white colour

With Pleats Please-Issey Miyake shirt in straw-yellow colour

Cauliflower Issey Miyake spider web design pleated boxy top in polyester etamine, boat neck, sleeveless, wide fit; white colour

Y’s Yohji Yamamoto shorts in tencel and linen, waistband with belt loops, two button and strings fastening, side slanted pockets, slit pocket with button at the back, relaxed fit

Issey Miyake leather and clear PVC inserts belt, stud fastening; length; white colour

Marsèll “goccia” treated kangaroo leather lace-up style shoes (not in sale) open toe, no lace, contrast tone rubber heel; white colour

With blue colours: Cauliflower-Issey Miyake top , Issey Miyake belt, Marsèll “goccia” shoes

Issey Miyake tank top in pleated printed polyester with colour gradations design, round neck, relaxed fit

Cauliflower Issey Miyake hakama style wide cropped cotton trousers, wide high waistband with loops and small self belt knot fastening, one side patch pocket, bluette colour

Trippen flat wooden platform sandal (not in sale), single strap across the toes and an ankle strap with rivet and holes closure, calf leather; black colour

With green/yellow fluo t-shirt Issey Miyake