Abirinzà, a sound more than a word, coming from the recurrent Earth cadences from which Daniela Gregis draw the inspiration for this spring/summer 2016, brings us important clues about the construction of a collection particularly full of ornamental patterns. The designer with this sound expression, probably invented, evokes the Sardinia, with its rooted and complex textile traditions, the extensive and expertise use of the loom, but also with its rich heritage of memories and nostalgia.

Abirinzà broods over the memories of hard work laying them down as poetic logos in unexpected positions, becoming systematic patchwork gussets, where two different possibilities combine themselves together: fragments saved from the past and reassembled in canvas next to a painting or more slow and difficult weaving, nets and gauzes, loom and crochet, embracing each other in perfect harmony.

The designer from Bergamo certifies in this way each piece, claiming an authenticity in the acrobatic vicissitudes of the paintbrush, that stains and gives new life to the linen nets, joint with their negatives in cotton poplin, because the process should be watched in its integrity, combining itself with the first work. The silks, in the slippery brightness of the crêpe de chine, become bright palettes of strained colour, in the more contrasting red-blue shades, but also in the less radical blue-pastel light blue and white. Or the vichy, quoted also in other seasons, widen themselves becoming definite squares with more and more large spaces, always treated with the washing to contain the cotton strict rigidity.

Abirinzà are the open doors of the memory silos, abirinzà are the surprises regenerate in the changes of thinking, abirinzà is the just started spring, abirinzà are the fresh starts and the promises of staying well.

Discover the full ‘Abirinzà’ collection on our online catalogue…

Junya Watanabe Spring/Summer 2016 runway details, Dazed & Confused dazeddigital.com.

(Dress and necklace coming soon.)

We always brought to light the Junya Watanabe’s peculiar interpretative ability in establishing, in the form of dress, the predominant stresses of our time. Post-modern, cyber-punk, tailor-philosopher of an age crossed by very fast transformations, where, from collection to collection, plastics and brand new materials, parts of abandoned industrial landscapes, occurred, to give shape to his personal metabolization and to his interpretation of the contemporaneity.

For the Spring/Summer 2016 the Rei Kawakubo-Comme des Garçons’ favourite, still produced by the Japanese Maison, welcomed his public in an emblematic space of pressing social themes, the Musée de l’Histoire de l’Immigration of Paris.

Il Musée de l’Histoire de l’Immigration of Paris on the cover of Junya Watanabe S/S 2016 lookbook.

An important clue, a sensitive container of the present restrictive instincts of a continent in a state of alert for the imposing migratory phenomenon of which is witness. A suggestion and also an invitation to change the prospective through which we perceive the present, from an emergency point of view to an enrichment one, the one that only a flow of people and therefore of culture could offer, as the time has been able to testify.

And it’s the most problematic and hot continent to be celebrated and evoked, translated by the usual Watanabe’s modern glance. African and electro sonorities go along on the runway with the vivaciousness of the colours and of the decorations: very warm reds or clear, intense blues; kaftans and zebra-stripes dresses, tunics and shirts, garments able to face the highest temperatures, but also able to prepare us for more relaxed and evolved holidays.

Constant asymmetries, elliptic constructions, experimental leopard spots on Japanese paper and complex fabric movements at the hem bring Africa and its chromatic, formal and symbolic qualities into the metropolitan and stateless circuits, where any traditional aesthetic contaminate and regenerate itself in peculiar, as independent, anthropological expressions.

Junya Watanabe long kaftan dress in light polyester canvas with horizontal stripes ‘décor’ style and aluminium bangles, wide crew-neck, wide flared sleeve, big metallic bangles on the cuffs detachable with laces and loops.

Junya Watanabe zebra-striped dress coming soon.

Junya Watanabe multi-layers rings necklace from the bigger to the smaller in shiny polyurethane and polyester imitation leather, it could be placed along the shoulders.

Photography from Junya Watanabe S/S 2016 lookbook.

Junya Watanabe asymmetric robe manteau dress in polyester organza with tone on tone small spots processing in Japanese paper, wide half-closed shirt neck, ¾ flared sleeve, buttons closure till the bottom, spiral construction.

Junya Watanabe 5 pockets jeans-like leggings in light stretch linen and polyurethane canvas, over-the-ankle length, zip and button closure, belt loops.

Massimo Giussani man shoe in cowhide leather entirely hand-painted with two colours one shading on the other, with laces and tongue with inner elastic band, leather sole painted in the same colours of the upper part.

Junya Watanabe long and wide shirt in light ramié canvas, raglan shoulder, long sleeve, sack line on the back and straight on the front.

A punto B long trousers in cotton poplin, elastic band and light curling at the band, welt vertical side pockets.

Massimo Giussani man shoe in cowhide leather entirely hand-painted with two colours one shading on the other, with laces and tongue with inner elastic band, leather sole painted in the same colours of the upper part.

Junya Watanabe long and wide shirt in light ramié canvas, raglan shoulder, long sleeve, sack line on the back and straight on the front.

A punto B wide linen canvas trousers, elastic band and light curling at the belt, welt vertical side pockets.

Classic’ Trippen ankle-length boot in soft elk leather with rounded tip, diagonal zip on the upper part, side zip closure, removable cork insole, rubber sole.

Junya Watanabe wide tunic in light ramié canvas, shirt neck with half-closed closure, flared line with stiff band, sack shape with central upside down V stitching and on the back at the bottom.

Junya Waatanabe 5 pockets jeans-like leggings in light stretch linen and polyurethane canvas, over-the-ankle length, zip and button closure, belt loops.

Massimo Giussani man shoe in cowhide leather entirely hand-painted with two colours one shading on the other, with laces and tongue with inner elastic band, leather sole painted in the same colours of the upper part.

Junya Watanabe wide tunic in light cotton canvas, crew-neck with back small button, flared line with stiff band, sack shape with side stitching towards the inside at the bottom.

Junya Waatanabe 5 pockets jeans-like leggings in light stretch linen and polyurethane canvas, over-the-ankle length, zip and button closure, belt loops.

Massimo Giussani man shoe in cowhide leather entirely hand-painted with two colours one shading on the other, with laces and tongue with inner elastic band, leather sole painted in the same colours of the upper part.

From the remote Fær Øer Island, secluded archipelago contained between the Norwegian Sea and the north of the Atlantic Ocean, an happy example of how the world is restraining in its space-time coordinates.

Despite the limits resulting from a forced coast isolation, Gudrun & Gudrun is in fact able to address itself to the global market proposing a knitwear line in wool, alpaca and merinos or in a more rustic and ecological autochthonous wool, thick of suggestions, local influences and traditions.

Gudrun & Gudrun open jacket style cardigan in heavy knitted alpaca, dropped stitching working on the shoulder and along the sleeve.

Daniela Gregis wide trousers in heavy cotton canvas, belt loops with belt, turned-up at the hem, welt pockets on the side and on the back, open flap with elastic band.

Gudrun & Gudrun hip-length heavy sweater in hand-knitted alpaca, slightly flared, cowl neck.

Daniela Gregis wide trousers in heavy cotton canvas, belt loops with belt, turned-up at the hem, welt pockets on the side and on the back, open flap with elastic band.

Gudrun & Gudrun long and wide cardigan in hand-knitted alpaca, two patch pockets on the front, belt loops with belt, crew-neck.

Daniela Gregis wide trousers in heavy cotton canvas, belt loops with belt, turned-up at the hem, welt pockets on the side and on the back, open flap with elastic band.

But the surprise and the news brought by this young Danish brand are in the ability of interrupt the monotonous folklore language with more contemporary shapes, completely consistent with more advanced and sophisticated urban proposals.

From the thick blanket of the yarn, an anything but an old-fashioned and folk femininity emerges, rather pleased of being wrapped in garment of certain thermal and aesthetic properties.

Gudrun & Gudrun honeycomb stitched short and tight sweater, turtle-neck, medium weight.

Daniela Gregis wide trousers in heavy cotton canvas, belt loops with belt, turned-up at the hem, welt pockets on the side and on the back, open flap with elastic band.

Gudrun & Gudrun man style hip-length sweater in hand-knitted alpaca, straight line, boat neck.

Daniela Gregis wide trousers in heavy cotton canvas, belt loops with belt, turned-up at the hem, welt pockets on the side and on the back, open flap with elastic band.

Gudrun & Gudrun long and tight sweater in ‘ecowool’ ecological wool jersey, crew-neck, raglan shoulder, outer stitchings.

Gudrun & Gudrun heavy hand-knitted alpaca neck with hood, stitched on the neck.

Shu Moriyama wide and long coat in rayon acrylic and polyester canvas with a wool effect, egg line with an horizontal stitching with a pocket effect on a side, wide padded neck, press buttons, 2 horizontal welt pockets.

Gudrun & Gudrun wide sweater in hand-knitted virgin wool, mohair and alpaca with a patchwork of different workings and colours on the neck, slightly flared.

Daniela Gregis wide trousers in heavy cotton canvas, belt loops with belt, turned-up at the hem, welt pockets on the side and on the back, open flap with elastic band.

Gudrun & Gudrun calf-length dress in large stitched mohair, boat neck, flared sleeve, seam at the belt, wide skirt.

Gudrun & Gudrun short and wide cardigan large stitched mohair and chenille on the neck, crew-neck, small buttons closure, chenille working on the neck.

Daniela Gregis wide trousers in heavy cotton canvas, belt loops with belt, turned-up at the hem, welt pockets on the side and on the back, open flap with elastic band.

Gudrun & Gudrun long and wide cardigan in hand-knitted virgin wool and alpaca with a patchwork of different workings and colours on the neck, crew-neck with press button.

Daniela Gregis wide trousers in heavy cotton canvas, belt loops with belt, turned-up at the hem, welt pockets on the side and on the back, open flap with elastic band.

Y’s Yohji Yamamoto calf length fitted at the waist dress in tencel jersey with “Mark Rothko” colours print, slip like shoulder straps, neck opening with net insert, central zip on the back, a small side pocket on the waist.

Yohji Yamamoto shoulder bag in smooth cow leather with wool gabardine sides, drawstring expanded, one small pocket at front and one at back, exposed zip closure, detachable buckle adjustable thin strap, cotton canvas lining, inside pocket.

Trippen simple flat sandal with one upper strap across the feet and a narrow one at the ankle with velcro fastening.

LGR woman’s sun-glasses with shaded grey photochromatic lenses; frame in flexible acetate by Mazzucchelli and lenses by Barberini.

Vivienne Westwood Gold Label dress/skirt in viscose with a big orchid print on a black background, elastic at the belt, two side welt pockets, wide and straight line, wearable as a long skirt or a calf length dress.

Vivienne Westwood Gold Label short cardigan in knitted cotton and silk, boat neck, sewn as two drawn near knitted fabrics with profiles in relief, open holes on the shoulders and on the sides, a small pocket diagonally sewn on the front, small band hem, tight fit.

Trippen high clog with cowhide leather bands and wood sole.covered with non-slip rubber, leather band with velcro closure, heel height 7,5 cm.

Blue Yesey hat, 100% straw.

Cauliflower Issey Miyake creased t-shirt in polyester jersey, wide round neck, short sleeves.

Zucca wide and long cardigan with cotton Norwegian jacquard, three quarter sleeve, V neck, sewn beads with Aztecan pattern on the shoulders, two side small pockets at the hem.

Zucca straight fit trousers in washed cotton poplin., two diagonal pockets on the front and a small pocket with button on the back, stitching in the inner thigh with a “jodhpurs” effect, sewn turn-up at the hem, belt loops.

Rosa Mosa cotton canvas pois print and leather sneakers with rubber sole.

Yesey hat, 100% paper.

Comme des Garçons ”sculpture” shirt with overlapping shapes in popeline cotton, medium length, short sleeves with geometric design, wide crew-neck.

Forme d’Expression curve shaped skinny pants in black washed wool serge, leg with front curve cut, concealed button fastening, sides slit pocket, centre leg cut and welt pockets at rear, slightly shorter and pointed hem at the back.

Yohji Yamamoto doctor style tote in black garment texture soft leather, hinged top, double handles, can be wear on shoulder, cotton canvas lining, , one zipped, one cell phone holder and one slit inside pockets.

Tracey Neuls stringless shoes in soft cowhide leather, mocassin like upper with small holes on the tongue and with inner elastic band, leather sole.

Scha limited edition hat in vintage quality, very fine weave sisal double layers, soft and ultralight, small brim, pliable wire in the edge.

Boboutic wide t-shirt in stockinette stitch makò cotton and silk, falling raw cut short sleeves, wide and reinforced crew-neck, sewn with slight horizontal difference in colour from one shoulder to the other along the back, hem band, shorter at the front.

Oyuna sahrouel knitted jersey/crêpe de Chine cotton trousers, side small pocket on the hip, asymmetric line, elastic at the waist, wearable also as a below the knee skirt lifting up the bottom.

PLEATS PLEASE Issey Miyake half moon bag in slanting polyester pleating and leather trimmings, an inside small pocket with zip, inside lined with nylon, zip closure, strengthened bottom on the sides, removable handles with hook, cross body, shoulder or hand bag.

Trippen flip-flop sandal with classic “Trippen” wide sole and metallic cowhide leather bands outlining a open V on the instep, band with Velcro fastening around the ankle, rubber arch support.

This title serves as a perfect introduction to the meeting between the shots taken by the young photographer from Padua, Giulia Magnaguagno, and the offerings for autumn from the store IVO MILAN.

The concept of ‘outside the neighbourhood’ refers to the external perspective, and from certain viewpoints, also refers to being outside the boutique in Padua, which usually shows its range inside the spaces that have now become familiar to public online.

But it is also an indication of the subject around which Giulia shoots her photographs, in other words, a journey. With the focus centred increasingly on the strong scenic and aesthetic presence of the female form, the dimension that moves is suggested by minimal touches: luggage, roads and changing backgrounds. The elsewhere is intentionally presented and is based on the models themselves. They interpret the clothing designed in different places and cultures, immortalised in set contexts; which are easily recognisable for anyone that knows Padua … from the historic centre, the famous university observatory of Galileo Galilei in the vicinity of Specola, on the Ponte Molino and Ponte di Ferro bridges, to the countryside surrounding the town centre.

Go to the contemporary art gallery site Spazio Anna Breda in Padua, to learn more about the talent and biography of Giulia Magnaguagno.

Set 1, in the countryside surrounding Padua, starting from the left, the girls are wearing:

Haat garment, knitted stripes overlaid with cotton, polyester and alpaca

Yesey hat, in mat wool jersey

Daniela Gregis shirt, printed Liberty design cotton shirt

Daniela Gregis pants, in washed cotton with a micro-check design, and natural leather belt

“Archive” short Trippen boots, in soft elk leather

Set 2, on Ponte Molino, starting from the left:

Y’s Yohji Yamamoto top, asymmetrical, in cotton and angora jersey, with satin applications at the bottom and on the cuff

Y’s Yohji Yamamoto scarf, with two woollen Scotch plaid panels

Yohji Yamamoto pants, in wool viyella jersey

“Archive” short Trippen boots, in soft elk leather

Sacai garment, cotton jersey cardigan shirt with attached wool cardigan

Bao Bao Issey Miyake shoulder bag, in origami PVC triangular panels

Short Trippen boots, in vintage cowhide leather

Set 3, on Ponte di Ferro, starting from the left:

Forme d’Expression jacket, in crushed wool with a dotted print giving the effect of ‘corrosion’

Asymmetrical Forme d’Expression t-shirt, in a Prince of Wales wool and cotton knit

Rick Owens pants, in brush-back crushed wool flannel

Marsèll “goccia” ankle boots, in leather, and part of the heel in white rubber

Y’s Yohji Yamamoto jacket, in heavy “weave” type drape in wool and polyamide with unfinished edging

Junya Watanabe, bermuda garment with high waist and braces, in soft virgin wool

hat with broad ‘Hamish’ brim, Comme des Garçons-Comme des Garçons, in stiff woollen felt

boot in treated cowhide leather, with rubber under sole and heel in bubble rubber, Marsèll “goccia”

Set 4, narrow street near Specola, the Galilelo Galilei observatory, starting from the left:

Rick Owens caban, in wool, silk and cupro fabric

Rick Owens garment, in viscose and acrylic caddis

“Archive” short Martin Margiela boots

long Yohji Yamamoto stole, in felt wool combined with wool gauze

Rick Owens pants, in brush-back flannel of crushed wool

Triangular shoulder bag, Jaana Parkkila, in sheepskin and Nickel-free metal cord (soon available in the catalogue under code 20814)

Marsèll “goccia” ankle boots, in leather, and part of the heel in white rubber

Because most of the shooting was done entirely in public places, the footwear worn by the models was kindly lent by Sari. Most of the footwear is still available in the IVO MILAN catalogue.

The staff, in order of appearance: Sari stylist, Anna make-up artist, Annachiara assistant photographer, Irina and Giulia models; Giulia photographer