Abirinzà, a sound more than a word, coming from the recurrent Earth cadences from which Daniela Gregis draw the inspiration for this spring/summer 2016, brings us important clues about the construction of a collection particularly full of ornamental patterns. The designer with this sound expression, probably invented, evokes the Sardinia, with its rooted and complex textile traditions, the extensive and expertise use of the loom, but also with its rich heritage of memories and nostalgia.

Abirinzà broods over the memories of hard work laying them down as poetic logos in unexpected positions, becoming systematic patchwork gussets, where two different possibilities combine themselves together: fragments saved from the past and reassembled in canvas next to a painting or more slow and difficult weaving, nets and gauzes, loom and crochet, embracing each other in perfect harmony.

The designer from Bergamo certifies in this way each piece, claiming an authenticity in the acrobatic vicissitudes of the paintbrush, that stains and gives new life to the linen nets, joint with their negatives in cotton poplin, because the process should be watched in its integrity, combining itself with the first work. The silks, in the slippery brightness of the crêpe de chine, become bright palettes of strained colour, in the more contrasting red-blue shades, but also in the less radical blue-pastel light blue and white. Or the vichy, quoted also in other seasons, widen themselves becoming definite squares with more and more large spaces, always treated with the washing to contain the cotton strict rigidity.

Abirinzà are the open doors of the memory silos, abirinzà are the surprises regenerate in the changes of thinking, abirinzà is the just started spring, abirinzà are the fresh starts and the promises of staying well.

Discover the full ‘Abirinzà’ collection on our online catalogue…

Top 132 5. Issey Miyake spring/summer 2016.

Despite the slow, endless moving forward of the winter, in the shop the season sales introduce and overlap the joyful arrival of the next Spring/Summer. An impressive Trippen delivery makes us guess the incoming chromatic presences and, for the first time in Europe, the 132 5. Issey Miyake origami lines, anticipates the most clever developments of the extraordinary Japanese Maison!

Trippen shoes spring/summer 2016 lined up ready to be photigraphed.

Top 132 5. Issey Miyake spring/summer 2016.

1 One-dimensional

3 Three-dimensional

2 Shape

5 Body

But also Daniela Gregis, Comme des Garçons, Junya Watanabe are waiting for their turn of being shot and added to our online catalogue…

Junya Watanabe spring/summer 2016

The well-curated Daniela Gregis packaging.

Hand-woven Daniela Gregis bag in wicker and vichy spring/summer 2016.

The first arrivals of Comme des Garçons, Daniela Gregis, Junya Watanabe and 1 3 2 5.Issey Miyake waiting to be photographed  for our online catalogue.

And after these fleeting, as confused, new arrivals previews, the rigid temperatures allow us to still dwell upon the many winter possibilities… Outfits provided by the knowledge of months of experimentations, revelations and fittings with the shop customers. Often unique pieces, of impossible to find design, being timeless they are combinable with garments from the past winters, a strategic and gratifying finishing to our refined wardrobes.

Vivienne Westwood Red Label long and heavy sweater in malfilè wool, cotton, polyamide and acrylic with big contrasting triangles, wide crew-neck.

Vivienne Westwood Anglomania short pants-style miniskirt in polyester and elastane canvas with  a worn-out velvet effect printing, inner buttons closure, outer buttons diagonal closure, 2 side pockets, central back slit.

Vivienne Westwood Anglomania viscose and spandex leggings with Union Jack printing.

Vivienne Westwood Mantero big scarf in acrylic and wool big thread loom weft with squares pattern, fringes along the edges, l 200 cm x h 55 cm.

Trippen ankle boot in soft suede cowhide leather slightly creased on the instep, side zip closure, new ‘spot’ sole with two rubber blocks and non-slip base made on iron stamp.

Y’s Yohji Yamamoto wide coat in loom worked wollen multicolour cloth, single-breasted, half-closed crew-neck, frayed edges, two diagonal vertical pockets, press buttons closure.

Y’s Yohji Yamamoto long, wide and asymmetric sweater in knitted wool with a light bouclé effect, turtle-neck with V opening on the front, horizontal ribbing on the breast and on the shoulder, diagonal point at the bottom, side stitching, one side slit, asymmetric line.

Y’s Yohji Yamamoto spencer jacket in wool gabardine with cuff and hem bands, single-breasted with lapels, two vertical welt pockets.

Y’s Yohji Yamamoto wide, large and asymmetric divided skirt in light pale multicolour wool canvas, with brace, one vertical welt pockets, zip and drawstring side closure.

Yohji Yamamoto wide stole in knitted wool and nylon worked with stitched ribbed fringes, fringes at the far ends, l 216 cm x h 70 cm.

Trippen ankle-boot in cowhide leather with new ‘spot’ sole with two rubber blocks and non-slipper base made on iron stamps, vertical elastic bands from the sole to the ankle.

Yohji Yamamoto short cardigan in light knitted wool, polyamide and viscose with abstract-geometrical texture, zip closure, drop-shaped neck, wider on the side, hem band, wide kimono sleeve.

Yohji Yamamoto short jersey and gabardine wool dress, tight-fitting t-shirt bodice with wide draped fabric sewn at the neck and adjustable, long sleeve.

Yohji Yamamoto classic twill trousers printed with artist Yasuto Sasada drawings, tight at the bottom, 2 front diagonal pockets and 2 welt pockets with small button on the back, zip and button closure, belt loops and inserted strap with buckle, lined.

Trippen ankle boot in soft suede cowhide leather slightly creased on the instep, side zip closure, new ‘spot’ sole with two rubber blocks and non-slip base made on iron stamp.

Rick Owens sculpture padded jacket longer on the sides in polyamide with an horizontal pleating processing, geometrical stitching on the front, single-breasted with wide triangular lapels, three snaps buttons closure.

Issey Miyake wool and polyurethane crêpe stretch trousers with contrasting colour belt, two diagonal pockets, two welt pockets on the back, diagonal panel stitched on the front, two buttons and zip side closure, soft line.

Trippen ankle-boot in washed and treated cowhide leather with three blocks heel, side zip closure, wide sole, instep upper part higher on the back.

Junya Watanabe mohair sweater with ribbed pyramid origami in wool and polyester along the sleeves and the shoulders, crew-neck, band on the cuffs, neck and at the bottom.

Junya Watanabe knee-length wide full skirt with rounded large pleats in wool flannel, side closure with zip and hook.

Shu Moriyama short and wide jacket in embossed wool canvas with patterns in two different colours, crew-neck, single-breasted with press buttons.

Andrea Cortella rew-neck sweater in stitched Cashwool extra fine Merino wool with pyramid shaped points on the front, knitted band at the bottom, on the cuffs and on the neck, straight line.

Issey Miyake skirt in steam stretch pleated bicolour polyester and polyurethane with a narrow crystal effect, elastic band at the belt, wide and flared line, two welt pockets, reversible and wearable as a cape.

‘Classic Trippen’ ankle boot in oiled suede cowhide leather with strings and small hooks, removable cork insole, rubber sole.

Issey Miyake pleated garments.

Junya Watanabe and Comme des Garçons garments.

Gudrun & Gudrun knitwear.

Gudrun & Gudrun open jacket style cardigan in heavy knitted alpaca, dropped stitching working on the shoulder and along the sleeve.

Y’s Yohji Yamamoto long divided skirt in cotton canvas with vertical stitched pleats, 2 diagonal side welt pockets, zip and button closure.

Vivienne Westwood Mantero big scarf in acrylic and wool big thread loom weft with squares pattern, fringes along the edges, l 200 cm x h 55 cm.

Trippen ankle boot in drummed cowhide leather and traditional Japanese sole, parallel stratifications effect on the upper instep, zip closure, traditional rubber Japanese sole.

Forme D’Expression wide pea coat in damask wool cloth with checks, shawl neck, shorter on the back, points on the front, pointed bottom, closure with button on the neck or on the side.

Boboutic short sweater in knitted extra fine wool, polyamide and yak, with irregular weft thread in a different colour at the bottom and on the sleeves, crew-neck with band, band on the cuffs and at the hem, soft line.

Forme D’Expression wool jersey trousers with waistband and knee-length doubled leg, soft line, two side welt pockets and one patch pocket on the back.

Forme D’Expression high closed neck warmer in doubled knitted soft wool and cashmere in two different colours inside-outside, reversible.

Kate Sheridan rectangular backpack in waterproof British Millerain with leather adjustable shoulder straps, flap and adjustable leather ribbon closure, internal open pockets and internal zip pocket, h 43 cm x l 38 cm.

Daniela Gregis egg-shaped handmade sweater in straight stitched mohair and silk, wide crew-neck, long sleeve, neck, hem and cuffs with ribbed edge.

Daniela Gregis calf-length skirt in double wool crêpe with dark ‘storm’ printing, cut out hem, waistband at the belt, curled at the waist.

Trippen ankle boot in treated and washed cowhide leather, winglet with a pleat effect on the side, turn-up at the ankle, inner zip closure, two shell rubber sole.

Reinhard Plank medium-brimmed bowler hat in waxed and varnished lapin felt with a ‘rock’ effect.

Photography by Sari Milan.

Teamwork, environmental ethos, experimentation and strong pragmatism, light and joy, the guidelines of a Maison built around the enlightened principles of its founder, Issey Miyake.

Issey Miyake Autumn/Winter 2015-16: runway show finale.

Against the perishing and obsolete destiny of fashion, against the fact that clothing reduces itself to a simply instrument of status and wealth affirmation, Miyake firmly believes in the rational and spacial nature of dressing up. The dress exists in function of the physicality of whom will wear it, it’s bounded to people life and daily movement. So it must match innovation and comfort criteria, because our existences proceed into space and time.

Pictures from the Pleats Please Autumn/Winter 2015-16 catalogue.

In opposition to the ‘designer mythicization’, Miyake put together a team of experts that goes ahead and experiments through the continuous exchange of information and skills. In fact only the contamination of ideas and the flow of consciousness could generate that innovation levels already became exclusive heritage of Miyake Maison.

Machines at work in Miyake Design Studio: pictures from ‘Pleats Please Issey Miyake, published by Taschen.

The creative process starts trying to solve three fundamental problems: to minimise the industrial waste starting from just one piece of fabric; to give back the three-dimensionality of the human body through the fabric bi-dimensionality and to guarantee to the other people practicality, movement and an exclusive perception of the self. Inside this frame it has developed the engineering and textile experimentations that brought to the realization of the already very famous pleating. During four decades Miyake together with its staff tested new materials, invented formal abstractions only made possible by the infinite fabric plasticity and by the high-tech machines built up over time. With the different lines, from the one carrying his name that shows the most avant-garde and poetic experimentations of the new steam stretch pleating, to Pleats Please, to Cauliflower, developed in just one size, to the Bao Bao bags, where the triangle modular repetition is the remarkable sign of an highly futuristic project, or moreover the latest 132 5. Issey Miyake (available in our shop from next Spring/Summer), in recycled pet, pressed like origami paper, Issey Miyake and his Design Studio are ambitious guests of the most prestigious contemporary art galleries.

Issey Miyake Autumn/Winter 2015-16

132 5. Issey Miyake

So we can’t be taken away from point out, for whom will have the chance to be in Tokyo between next March and next June, the unmissable exhibition hold at the National Art Center:

MIYAKE ISSEY EXHIBITION: The Work of Miyake Issey

One of the most complete overview of Issey Miyake work and on the solutions, always in evolution, developed by his prolific creative team. And for the very first time the complex productive processes that allow the realization of the different expression of the most famous pleating will be shown and explained.

An overview from our catalogue Autumn/Winter 2015-16:

Issey Miyake calf-length coat in wool and polyester squares with a ribbon effect, shirt neck, two buttons closure, two welt pockets, lined.

Bao Bao Issey Miyake big squared shopper bag made by polish PRISMA PVC triangular plates repeated trough an origami calculation on a polyester base, double adjustable handles, big inner zip pocket, l 39 cm x h 39 cm.

Y’s Yohji Yamamoto tight leg jeans trousers in creased cotton canvas, 2 welt vertical pockets, 3 patch pockets on the back with and 2 overlapped, belt loops, zip and button closure.

Vivienne Westwood Mantero big scarf in very light new wool and silk gauze with Union Jack printing, small fringes along the edges, l 132 cm x h 100 cm.

Trippen ankle boot in soft cowhide leather with laces and stripes on a side, classic no-slip rubber sole with rounded toe.

Issey Miyake rectangular shawl in steam stretch pleated polyester and polyurethane with a kaleidoscope effect, buttons on the four points, wearable both sides and in many different ways, h 70 cm x l 130 cm.

Un-Namable long and asymmetric skirt in a paper effect polyester fabric, with pleats in different directions, with press buttons.

Trippen ankle boot in soft suede cowhide leather, with a comma elastic both sides of the ankle, with 2 shells sole.

Issey Miyake skirt in stiff and narrow pleated polyester with a crystal effect, elastic band at the belt, wide and flared line, two welt pockets, wearable as a cape.

Trippen ankle boot in soft suede cowhide leather, with a comma elastic both sides of the ankle, with 2 shells sole.

Issey Miyake ribbed steam stretch pleated polyester jacket, wide shawled lapels, fitted at the waist, button closure.

Issey Miyake wool and polyurethane crêpe stretch trousers with contrasting colour belt, two diagonal pockets, two welt pockets on the back, diagonal panel stitched on the front, two buttons and zip side closure, soft line.

Trippen ankle boot in soft suede cowhide leather, with a comma elastic both sides of the ankle, with 2 shells sole.

Issey Miyake straight pleated top with diagonal multicolour pattern, long bat sleeve, V neck, rounded hem.

Issey Miyake wool and polyurethane crêpe stretch trousers with contrasting colour belt, two diagonal pockets, two welt pockets on the back, diagonal panel stitched on the front, two buttons and zip side closure, soft line.

Issey Miyake long top in  melange narrow wave pleated polyester and wool, V neck, egg line.

A punto B low crotch and low waist trousers in heavy cotton, zip and button closure, wide and moulded slightly tightening at the bottom, two vertical welt pockets.

‘Classic Trippen’ ankle boot in oiled suede cowhide leather with strings and small hooks, removable cork insole, rubber sole.

Issey Miyake top in horizontal narrow and grained bicolour pleated polyester, wide and doubled cowl neck, diagonal pleating on the breast till the sleeve.

Issey Miyake large balloon trousers in narrow wave pleated polyester, tighter at the bottom, elastic band at the belt, two side welt pockets.

Issey Miyake squared shawl in stiff and narrow pleated polyester with a crystal effect, hole closure, h 80 cm x l 87 cm.

Issey Miyake hip-length jacket in stiff and narrow bicolour pleated polyester, single-breasted, lapels with detached points stitched on the neck, button closure, pointed sleeve on the cuffs, flared line.

Issey Miyake large balloon trousers in narrow wave pleated polyester, tighter at the bottom, elastic band at the belt, two side welt pockets.

Issey Miyake wide pea coat in  narrow wave pleated polyester with a multicolour optical effect, lapels, two buttons closure, ¾ flared sleeve, egg line.

Issey Miyake wool and polyurethane crêpe stretch trousers with contrasting colour belt, two diagonal pockets, two welt pockets on the back, diagonal panel stitched on the front, two buttons and zip side closure, soft line.

Issey Miyake short and wide jacket in horizontal narrow and grained bicolour pleated polyester, single-breasted, shawl and doubled neck, button closure.

Un-Namable long and asymmetric skirt in a paper effect polyester fabric, with pleats in different directions, with press buttons.

Trippen ankle boot in soft suede cowhide leather, with a comma elastic both sides of the ankle, with 2 shells sole.

Issey Miyake hip-length jacket in narrow wave pleated polyester with a multicolour optical effect, single-breasted with lapels, buttons closure.

Issey Miyake wool and polyurethane crêpe stretch trousers with contrasting colour belt, two diagonal pockets, two welt pockets on the back, diagonal panel stitched on the front, two buttons and zip side closure, soft line.

Trippen ankle boot in soft suede cowhide leather, with a comma elastic both sides of the ankle, with 2 shells sole.

Issey Miyake bolero jacket in tridimensional pleated polyester, shawl neck with semi-circular edges pleating on the inside, button closure, ¾ flared sleeve.

Issey Miyake wool and polyurethane crêpe stretch trousers with contrasting colour belt, two diagonal pockets, two welt pockets on the back, diagonal panel stitched on the front, two buttons and zip side closure, soft line.

Issey Miyake calf-length asymmetric dress in horizontal narrow and grained bicolour pleated polyester, wide and doubled cowl neck, diagonal pleating on the breast till the sleeve.

Trippen ankle boot in soft suede cowhide leather, with a comma elastic both sides of the ankle, with 2 shells sole.

Issey Miyake top in nylon and cotton A-poc bicolour fabric, asymmetric line, boat neck, flared sleeve, soften colours, frayed hem.

Issey Miyake stretch polyester and wool jeans-like trousers with small checks texture, two darts on the front, two side welt pockets, zip and button closure.

Trippen ankle boot in soft suede cowhide leather, with a comma elastic both sides of the ankle, with 2 shells sole.

Issey Miyake calf-length nylon and cotton A-poc bicolour tunic dress, ¾ sleeve, amphora line, boat neck.

Issey Miyake small bucket bag in bicolour stiff soften and shiny polyester pleating, origami shape with three-dimensional star effect, string closure, small leather shoulder strap.

Trippen ankle boot in soft suede cowhide leather, with a comma elastic both sides of the ankle, with 2 shells sole.

Comme des Garçons by Paolo Roversi for Vogue Paris, October 2015

We would like to point out an interesting interview to Rei Kawakubo, Comme des Graçons designer and founder of the Maison that, besides the lines carrying the name (Comme des Garçons, Comme des Garçons-Comme des Garçons) produces Junya Watanabe, Noir-Kei Ninomiya and in the past Tao Kurihara. A not pretty commercial experience, but rather made of creativity and experimental research around clothing.

Not only some indications about the inspiring theme of the Autumn/Winter 2015-16 collection, ‘Ceremony of Separation’, but most of all a precious point of view on the meaning that an high creativity valence dress could embody and on the creativity process which supports it. A synthetic analysis on the possible physiological aspects turned up by wearing clothes that launch continuous challenge to our minds and on the hard exercise of constantly inventing ever seen works…

From the very creation of her line Comme des Garçons in 1969, the Japanese designer Rei Kawakubo has upended, reimagined, and revolutionized the codes and concepts of what fashion is and what it can be. Now 73, Kawakubo is no less visionary, still “drowning in the dark,” as she describes it, in search of something new.

TELL US ABOUT THE THEME OF THE FALL COLLECTION: I called it the Ceremony of Separation. It’s about how the beauty and power of ceremony can alleviate the pain of separating, for the one departing as well as for the one saying goodbye.

HOW DO YOU WANT PEOPLE TO FEEL WHEN THEY WEAR COMME DES GARCONS? What someone wears is an expression of oneself. When you’re just comfortable with what you’re wearing, you don’t have new thoughts. I want people to feel something and think about who they are. You can’t become truly free if you no longer think about clothes. You need to occasionally wear something strong, and that can feel strange. It makes you aware of your existence and can reaffirm your relationship with society. I think people feel a minute current running through them as they come into contact with something made by someone exploring the limits. When you put on clothes that are fighting against something, you can feel your courage grow. Clothing can set you free.

WHAT IS YOUR CREATIVE PROCESS I’m always looking to make something that didn’t exist before, fumbling about in the dark, not just while making a collection. The search for something new is a constant in my everyday life. But constantly searching for something new is like looking for a well in a desert. It is like drowning in the dark, but creation is what I built Comme des Garçons on. For a collection, I need to push myself into a corner and find a way to get over the walls. The ideas are born disconnectedly, incoherently, and slowly, slowly, a final image emerges.

IS FASHION AN ART FORM? When fashion is driven by creation, I suppose it can be called an art form. But I have no concept of art in my work. Clothes are only completed when somebody actually wears them. If they were art, they could be more abstract. As long as something is new and has never been seen before, I don’t mind if people call it art. Wear them if you dare.

HOW DO YOU BALANCE ART AND COMMERCE? Comme des Garçons is a company founded on creation, but the link to business cannot be ignored. As the designer who is also head of the company, I have been able to “design” the company based on these same values. I want to take ultimate responsibility for the things I make and follow through everything right up to the end. What emerged, therefore, was a single decisive and coherent idea. Creation is our business.

DO YOU HAVE AN ULTIMATE GOAL? There is no end and no goal. As long as I’m attempting to make something that never existed before, an end is out of the question.

HOW IMPORTANT IS VISUAL COMMUNICATION? Extremely. I don’t trust words.

WHAT IS BEAUTY? Beauty should bring excitement.

Rei Kawakubo for Interview Magazine, October 2015 http://www.interviewmagazine.com/fashion/rei-kawakubo-1#_

Our selection for Autumn/Winter 2015-16 collection:

Comme des Garçons calf-length dress in rayon velvet hand-cut lace with embroidered flowers, crew-neck, sleeveless, zip and hook back closure, slim fit cut at the waist.

Junya Watanabe wide corolla cape in wool jersey floral origami, zip closure.

Comme des Garçons man jacket in embroidered lace of washed cotton and polyester, single-breasted with lapels, joined at the bottom with an overlapping flap, one small button on the neck, two patch pockets, small back slit.

Comme des Garçons man trousers with darts in creased high-tech polyester fabric, very wide leg with turn-up at the hem, zip and two buttons closure, two side welt pockets, two back welt pockets, one with button, belt loops.

Comme des Garçons calf-length dress in treated high-tech polyester fabric, wide line cut at the belt with back pleating, jacket with lapels bodice and joined flap, two horizontal welt pockets.

Trippen low-cut shoe in soft cowhide leather with overlapping diagonal crossed flap on the instep, new ‘spot’ sole with two rubber blocks and non-slipper base made on iron stamps.

Comme des Garçons wool jacket larger at the bottom, single-breasted, central buttons, shirt rounded neck, raglan shoulder, squared raw cut holes with polyurethane ribbons in contrasting colour.

Comme des Garçons divided skirt in glossy silk and wool gabardine, balloon style, 2 side welt pockets, drawstring and elastic band at the belt, arch-shaped stitchings conferring wideness.

Comme des Garçons man jacket in treated high-tech polyester fabric, single-breasted with lapels, joined at the bottom with an overlapping flap, one small button on the neck, two patch pockets, small back slit.

Comme des Garçons Comme des Garçons wide divided skirt in treated high-tech polyester fabric with vertical stripes weft, waistband and elastic band at the belt, side vertical pockets, flared on the sides.

Comme des Garçons calf-length dress in stiff wool and silk satin with see-through cloud lace inserts in jacquard cotton lace, crew-neck, sleeveless, wide egg line, side welt pockets, side zip closure.

Comme des Garçons doubled sweater in nylon tulle on the inside coming out at the bottom and from the cuffs, and on the outside in three-dimensional knitted alpaca and wool with inside/outside cones, rounded neck, slim fit.

Comme des Garçons divided skirt in glossy silk and wool gabardine, balloon style, 2 side welt pockets, drawstring and elastic band at the belt, arch-shaped stitchings conferring wideness.

Trippen shoe in soft cowhide leather, slightly overlapped and asymmetric closure with laces, classic sole in non-slip rubber with rounded toe.

Comme des Garçons short shirt in treated polyester poplin, crew-neck, with horizontal stitching at the bottom, slim fit, long sleeve, central and side zip, darts on the front, on the back and at the breast.

Comme des Garçons divided skirt in glossy silk and wool gabardine, balloon style, 2 side welt pockets, drawstring and elastic band at the belt, arch-shaped stitchings conferring wideness.

Comme des Garçons calf-length divided skirt in embroidered lace of washed cotton and polyester, wide fit, a leg shorter than the other, drawstring and elastic band at the belt, 2 side welt pockets, could be wear entering just one leg.

http://www.thenewblack.com/portraits/anrealage-fw-15-pfw/

The name Kunihiko Morinaga, 1980 class, hides itself behind a brand, Anrealage, that with that privative suffix at the beginning, an, denies two different meanings: reality and time. An important hint, that helps to understand the experimental will of the very young designer:

• nothing is what appears

• every seasonal tendency doesn’t fall within the primal interests of the collection proposed.

In fact we are inside the Japanese school, where the wish to affect and to stand out from a conceptual point of view prevails on the more simply broad consensus marketing phenomenons.

With Light collection Morinaga makes his debut in Paris with a strong experimental collection, put together around the engineering exercise of the photo-sensibility. Every garment translates a possible light manifestation. Actually photo-sensible outfits come out on the runway that, on the base of the solicitation they were subjected, modify their chromatic aspect and all the collection conducts the radiant light theme. The formal circles on the pea coats and on the coats emphasize the idea of the spot light. A luminous circle testifies extremely sophisticated treatments in the colour distribution, an absorption of the light tones more complex to tell than any print realized until now.

Anrealage short trench in wool cloth with light circle imprinted at the centre, double-breasted with flaps and lapels emerging from the fabric, gorget patches on the shoulders, back yoke, two vertical welt pockets, two welt inner pockets.

Milano Parigi man trousers in wool flannel,darts on the front, belt loops, welt vertical pockets, zip and button closure, elastic band at the beck of the belt, soft line tighter at the calf.

‘Classic Trippen’ ankle boot in oiled suede cowhide leather with strings and small hooks, removable cork insole, rubber sole.

Anrealage short trench in wool cloth with light circle imprinted at the centre, double-breasted with flaps and lapels emerging from the fabric, gorget patches on the shoulders, back yoke, two vertical welt pockets, two welt inner pockets.

Milano Parigi man trousers in wool flannel,darts on the front, belt loops, welt vertical pockets, zip and button closure, elastic band at the beck of the belt, soft line tighter at the calf.

Anrealage wool cloth knee-length pea coat with central chevron imprinted light circle, single-breasted, flaps and lapels emerging from the fabric, shoulder patches, three buttons, two welt pockets, two inner pockets.

Milano Parigi man trousers in wool flannel,darts on the front, belt loops, welt vertical pockets, zip and button closure, elastic band at the beck of the belt, soft line tighter at the calf.

‘Classic Trippen’ ankle boot in oiled suede cowhide leather with strings and small hooks, removable cork insole, rubber sole.

Anrealage wool cloth knee-length pea coat with central chevron imprinted light circle, single-breasted, flaps and lapels emerging from the fabric, shoulder patches, three buttons, two welt pockets, two inner pockets.

Anrealage calf-length skirt in black and white polyester and rayon graffito on a velvet effect base, side and bottom flounces, zip and hook side closure.

The radiant light theme is also on the knitwear, developed around a single fabric thread that, in the weft, alternates the with the shade represented by the black colour.

Anrealage circular cape in heavy knitted wool, aplaca and acrylic with a central light circle made by a single fabric thread, turtle-neck.

Y’s Yohji Yamamoto tight leg jeans trousers in creased cotton canvas, two welt vertical pockets, three patch pockets on the back with and two overlapped, belt loops, zip and button closure.

Anrealage long circular cardigan in bouclé knitted wool, alpaca and acrylic with a light circle in weft, automatic buttons closure, two welt pockets, large ribbed bands on the cuffs.

Y’s Yohji Yamamoto tight leg jeans trousers in creased cotton canvas, two welt vertical pockets, three patch pockets on the back with and two overlapped, belt loops, zip and button closure.

Or moreover, what could appear at first glance an elementary printed velvet, reveals with the movement its textile three-dimensionality: fibre, weft graphite traces on the contrasting colour, compressed in realizing a familiar textile evocation made by lights and shades never seen before, something that has absolutely to be observed live because there is no description able to give back effectively the final result.

Anrealage long jacket in black and white polyester and rayon graffito on a velvet effect base, single-breasted with lapels, button closure, two patch pockets, flounces on the sides and at the bottom, welt small breast pocket.

Milano Parigi man trousers in wool flannel,darts on the front, belt loops, welt vertical pockets, zip and button closure, elastic band at the beck of the belt, soft line tighter at the calf.

‘Classic Trippen’ ankle boot in oiled suede cowhide leather with strings and small hooks, removable cork insole, rubber sole.

Also in the garments with an aspect less bold and experimental, in reality thermic properties or decorative elements are very well hidden and they allow not only to enjoy the light portability of coats and pea coats, but also to modify their aspects, especially the length, at your own convenience.

Anrealage short blouson in mosaic patchwork of knitted cotton with different black and grey shades, iron wire core on the edges, zip closure, hood, two flap and button vertical pockets, buttons on the cuffs, vertical welt inner pocket.

Y’s Yohji Yamamoto tight leg jeans trousers in creased cotton canvas, two welt vertical pockets, three patch pockets on the back with and two overlapped, belt loops, zip and button closure.

Anrealage coat with hood in tone on tone cotton and rayon, zip and frogs closure, iron wire core along the edges, two patch pockets, draping, cuffs with buttons, inner vertical welt pocket.

Milano Parigi man trousers in wool flannel,darts on the front, belt loops, welt vertical pockets, zip and button closure, elastic band at the beck of the belt, soft line tighter at the calf.

‘Classic Trippen’ ankle boot in oiled suede cowhide leather with strings and small hooks, removable cork insole, rubber sole.

A great respect new entry, Anrealage has to be observed and waited with the enthusiasm of the most curious youth towards every possible, revolutionary formal and textile manipulation.

Photo courtesy of Sari Milan

Superimpositions, asymmetries and diagonal cuts, a certain attraction for the over volumes, sometimes unisex, together with a constant fabric research, often with a lived and rough aspect, outline the Forme spirit. Dry or very soft wools, wide sweater with cowl necks, outer stitching, damask canvas, not finished edgings, reversible garments, materials to be looked closer, undefined or melange colorations. Metropolitan, vaguely existentialist, the world of the Korean designer dialogues, with neatness and firm belief, with a cultured and reserved audience, removed from every concept and exhibitionism so dear to the fashion system.

Forme d’Expression wide pea coat in damask wool cloth with checks, shawl neck, shorter on the back, points on the front, pointed bottom, closure with button on the neck or on the side.

Forme d’Expression wool jersey trousers with waistband and knee-length doubled leg, soft line, two side welt pockets and one patch pocket on the back.

Forme d’Expression jacket in creased cotton, wool, linen and polyester canvas, single-breasted, guru neck, buttons closure, 2 horizontal welt pockets.

Forme d’Expression t-shirt in soft viscose jersey, crew-neck, slim fit, asymmetric at the bottom, long sleeve.

Forme d’Expression wide trousers in cotton, wool, linen and polyester canvas with low crutch, belt loops, zip and button closure, two patch pockets on the back.

Trippen ankle boot in soft suede cowhide leather slightly creased on the instep, side zip closure, new ‘spot’ sole with two rubber blocks and non-slip base made on iron stamp.

Forme d’Expression wide reversible pea coat in doubled wool fabric with a bouclé effect, shawl neck that becomes an hood, two rounded patch pockets on the front, pin safe closure.

Forme d’Expression wide and heavy hand-knitted wool and cashmere sweater, raglan shoulder, big ring neck, egg line, ribbed neck, cuff and bottom band.

Forme d’Expression wide trousers in cotton, wool, linen and polyester canvas with low crutch, belt loops, zip and button closure, two patch pockets on the back.

Trippen heavy-duty boot style ankle boot in cowhide leather, closure with strings and strap with outer side buckle, smooth leather on the heel and on the toe, the other parts in rough leather, removable cork insole, rubber sole.

Forme d’Expression classic jacket in wool and ramie gabardine, doubled at the bottom with an overlapped jackets effect, single-breasted, button closure, half-closed neck without lapels with darts, 2 welt horizontal pockets on the front.

A punto B tight calf-length skirt in heavy cotton, two oblique pockets, darts on the front, central zip back closure.

Forme d’Expression close-fitting t-shirt in doubled wool jersey, crew-neck, with external vertical central stitching on the front, along the sleeve and along the side.

Forme d’Expression trousers with drawstring in heavy wool jersey, low crutch, preformed leg, two side welt pockets, two patch pockets on the back.

Trippen heavy-duty boot style ankle boot in cowhide leather, closure with strings and strap with outer side buckle, smooth leather on the heel and on the toe, the other parts in rough leather, removable cork insole, rubber sole.

Forme d’Expression pea coat in padded wool canvas, shorter on the back, wide shawl neck, points on the front, pointed hem, button closure on the neck or on the side, two side welt pockets, lined.

Forme d’Expression long and wide sweater in wool and dotted alpaca in contrasting colour with a yarn effect, wide crawl neck, long kimono sleeve, two side slits, slightly longer on the back.

A punto B tight calf-length skirt in heavy cotton, two oblique pockets, darts on the front, central zip back closure.

Forme d’Expression pea coat in padded wool canvas, shorter on the back, wide shawl neck, points on the front, pointed hem, button closure on the neck or on the side, two side welt pockets, lined.

Forme d’Expression high closed neck warmer in doubled knitted soft wool and cashmere in two different colours inside-outside, reversible.

Forme d’Expression trousers with drawstring in heavy wool jersey, low crutch, preformed leg, two side welt pockets, two patch pockets on the back.

From the remote Fær Øer Island, secluded archipelago contained between the Norwegian Sea and the north of the Atlantic Ocean, an happy example of how the world is restraining in its space-time coordinates.

Despite the limits resulting from a forced coast isolation, Gudrun & Gudrun is in fact able to address itself to the global market proposing a knitwear line in wool, alpaca and merinos or in a more rustic and ecological autochthonous wool, thick of suggestions, local influences and traditions.

Gudrun & Gudrun open jacket style cardigan in heavy knitted alpaca, dropped stitching working on the shoulder and along the sleeve.

Daniela Gregis wide trousers in heavy cotton canvas, belt loops with belt, turned-up at the hem, welt pockets on the side and on the back, open flap with elastic band.

Gudrun & Gudrun hip-length heavy sweater in hand-knitted alpaca, slightly flared, cowl neck.

Daniela Gregis wide trousers in heavy cotton canvas, belt loops with belt, turned-up at the hem, welt pockets on the side and on the back, open flap with elastic band.

Gudrun & Gudrun long and wide cardigan in hand-knitted alpaca, two patch pockets on the front, belt loops with belt, crew-neck.

Daniela Gregis wide trousers in heavy cotton canvas, belt loops with belt, turned-up at the hem, welt pockets on the side and on the back, open flap with elastic band.

But the surprise and the news brought by this young Danish brand are in the ability of interrupt the monotonous folklore language with more contemporary shapes, completely consistent with more advanced and sophisticated urban proposals.

From the thick blanket of the yarn, an anything but an old-fashioned and folk femininity emerges, rather pleased of being wrapped in garment of certain thermal and aesthetic properties.

Gudrun & Gudrun honeycomb stitched short and tight sweater, turtle-neck, medium weight.

Daniela Gregis wide trousers in heavy cotton canvas, belt loops with belt, turned-up at the hem, welt pockets on the side and on the back, open flap with elastic band.

Gudrun & Gudrun man style hip-length sweater in hand-knitted alpaca, straight line, boat neck.

Daniela Gregis wide trousers in heavy cotton canvas, belt loops with belt, turned-up at the hem, welt pockets on the side and on the back, open flap with elastic band.

Gudrun & Gudrun long and tight sweater in ‘ecowool’ ecological wool jersey, crew-neck, raglan shoulder, outer stitchings.

Gudrun & Gudrun heavy hand-knitted alpaca neck with hood, stitched on the neck.

Shu Moriyama wide and long coat in rayon acrylic and polyester canvas with a wool effect, egg line with an horizontal stitching with a pocket effect on a side, wide padded neck, press buttons, 2 horizontal welt pockets.

Gudrun & Gudrun wide sweater in hand-knitted virgin wool, mohair and alpaca with a patchwork of different workings and colours on the neck, slightly flared.

Daniela Gregis wide trousers in heavy cotton canvas, belt loops with belt, turned-up at the hem, welt pockets on the side and on the back, open flap with elastic band.

Gudrun & Gudrun calf-length dress in large stitched mohair, boat neck, flared sleeve, seam at the belt, wide skirt.

Gudrun & Gudrun short and wide cardigan large stitched mohair and chenille on the neck, crew-neck, small buttons closure, chenille working on the neck.

Daniela Gregis wide trousers in heavy cotton canvas, belt loops with belt, turned-up at the hem, welt pockets on the side and on the back, open flap with elastic band.

Gudrun & Gudrun long and wide cardigan in hand-knitted virgin wool and alpaca with a patchwork of different workings and colours on the neck, crew-neck with press button.

Daniela Gregis wide trousers in heavy cotton canvas, belt loops with belt, turned-up at the hem, welt pockets on the side and on the back, open flap with elastic band.

“Exploring dimensionality through clothing” has laically synthesized the spokesman of the Japanese designer in a pedantic announcement after the Autumn/Winter fashion show 2015-16 held at the Palais du Tokyo in Paris last 7th March.

Not new to astonishing textile exercises Junya Watanabe, Rei Kawakubo’s favorite and still produced by the Comme des Garçons maison, in fact made his debut enchanting the audience with poetic floral structure to wear.

Yet the developing of the origami theme assumes today a different character, in certain aspects less ethereal, more conceptual and nearer to the immaterial and complex dimension of the algorithmic logic, where recursive and homogeneous series determinate almost perfect extensions.

Soft wool jersey spheres, of which three-dimensionality has been realized trough the obsessive repetition of a basic geometric pattern, decorate necks, dresses bottoms and sweaters or just stand as independent architectures in the cases of capes and scarves.

In different experiments it’s the strictness of the pyramidal geometry, starting from an essential volumetric unit of measure, to be recomposed in polyester sateen sculptural jackets.

The calculation obsession is showed off by complex and abstruse mathematic functions tattooed in the few free skin glimpses of the models on the runway: hands, ankles reveal the impetuosity of an irrepressible numeric word.

Junya Watanabe Autumn/Winter 2015-16 Runway Details

Source: style.com http://www.style.com/fashion-shows/fall-2015-ready-to-wear/junya-watanabe

Nature and culture, order and chaos, co-existing dichotomy from the revelations of the most modern physics, are translated into harmonious decorative fabric abstractions.

The most cyber and post-modern of the Japanese designers seems going to the fractal complex theoretical visions, he’s experimenting a fabric expression to wear with its usual and peculiar visionary character, in certain case even in the routine of the everyday life, taking us with bewilderment and well in advance respect the others towards unimaginable future horizons.

Junya Watanabe wool jersey dress with wide corolla neck in three-dimensional origami, soft fit, sleeve tight to the waist, wearable also as a t-shirt.

Junya Watanabe hip-length sculpture cape with pyramid origami in polyester sateen, hook closure, oval gab on the back, lined.

Junya Watanabe calf-length striped dress in light wool jersey with three-dimensional origami half-moon bottom, crew-neck, shorts pants on the inside, back zip closure.

Junya Watanabe classic man shirt in horizontal pleated cotton and polyester, rounded hem, cuff with button, central button closure, shirt neck.

Junya Watanabe calf-length skirt in origami polyester taffetas, elastic band at the waist, reversible, tighter on a side at the hem, flared on the other side, reversible and wearable as a cape.

Junya Watanabe Oxford style shoe in oiled and suede cowhide leather with an aged effect, strings closure, 2 shells rubber sole.

Junya Watanabe hip-length cardigan in light wool jersey with shawl floral origami neck, long sleeve, central small buttons closure.

Junya Watanabe cape jacket in polyester sateen, turtle-neck, single-breasted, ¾ sleeve, flat on front, wide back with waves and darts, central buttons closure.

Junya Watanabe classic man shirt in horizontal pleated cotton and polyester, rounded hem, cuff with button, central button closure, shirt neck.

Junya Watanabe calf-length skirt in origami polyester taffetas, elastic band at the waist, reversible, tighter on a side at the hem, flared on the other side, reversible and wearable as a cape.

Junya Watanabe wide corolla cape in wool jersey floral origami, zip closure.

Junya Watanabe classic man shirt in horizontal pleated cotton and polyester, rounded hem, cuff with button, central button closure, shirt neck.

Something new in the shop?

If some days before the summer begins someone has already started to ask for the new arrivals, maybe we need to stimulate a greater curiosity about what our collections have still to say.

With the help of our tutor Sari let’s try to welcome the hottest season with some of the many combinations experimented and discovered in the shop, alternative to the others already observed, maybe more suitable for the every day life, for sure not so predictable. A quick tour around the possibilities of putting together different designers, also from the past years, functional to complete with unexpected actuality the more contemporary garments.

Vivienne Westwood Red Label cotton jacquard sweater with squares in different shades, draped ring collar, American shoulder, sleeveless.

Forme D’Expression 5 pockets trousers in washed and treated hemp with chromatic tone changes, horizontal parallel stitchings on the knees, button closure, belt loops, soft fit.

‘Classic BaoBao’ Issey Miyake squared shopping bag made of triangular plates of glossy-shining PVC repeated with origami calculations on a polyester net base, adjustable dovetailed handles, an inner pocket with zip, side 34 x 34 cm

Trippen flat shoe in flatted cowhide leather, essential line with inner edge higher on a side, two separated rubber shells sole.

Comme des Garçons t-shirt in gold foil print polyester jersey with irregular folds and padded bands at the hem, straight shape, round neck, dropped shoulder.

Comme des Garçons knee-length divided skirt in high-tech treated polyester fabric, stitched brace, balloon line, two welt side vertical pockets, zip and button closure, cut raw frayed belt, horizontal stitching along the leg.

Zucca Oxford shoes in see-through plastic and heel protection in red leather, with strings, small perspiring holes on the front, rubber covered sole.

Vivienne Westwood Gold Label oversize vest in cotton jersey with ‘Wallace Collection’ printing on the front and stripes and comics on the back, wide rounded neck and wide armhole, narrow shoulder straps, rounded hem.

Issey Miyake stretch organzine band top with contrast tone sheer tulle band, shape fit.

Yohji Yamamoto cigarette trousers in linen and viscose etamine, zip and button closure, 2 diagonal pockets on the front, 2 patch pockets on the back, belt with adjustable buttons.

Bao Bao issued Miyake big shoulder post-bag with opaque PVC triangular plates repeated trough an origami calculation on a net and polyester canvas base, adjustable shoulder belt, snap closure with inner hook, outer zip pocket, 2 inner small pockets, l 40 cm x h 30 cm.

Trippen flat shoe in vegetable-tanned calf leather, wax finish treated, fold detail on the vamp, two cups rubber outsole.

Comme des Garçons niki top with torn stripes in polyester georgette on a cotton base, crew-neck, sleeveless, central zip closure on the back and side zip, irregular hem.

Comme des Garçons technical treated polyester divided skirt, stitched brace, side draping, asymmetric stitchings, cut raw trimmings at the belt, one side vertical welt pockets on the hip, zip closure on the side.

June Watanabe man style lace up shoes in white leather with small triangles pattern perforated, pointed toe, leather sole.

Vivienne Westwood Gold Label t-shirt made by two different fabric rectangles printed with a ‘mixed-up’ floral printing: one in cotton jersey, one in silk, boat neck, winglet sleeve, cut raw edgings, wearable front/back.

Vivienne Westwood Anglomania pure linen canvas trousers, curled at the belt with sash, buttons closure, two vertical welt pockets, medium width leg.

Bao Bao Issey Miyake rectangular shoulder bag with glossy PVC triangular plates repeated trough an origami calculation on a net and polyester canvas base, double adjustable handle, 3 inner small pockets, zip closure, smooth bottom with 4 metal plates, l 41 cm x h 28 cm.

Trippen thong sandal with elk soft leather strings interlaced till the ankle, side strap closure, rubber rounded sole in contrasting colour.

Photography by Sari Milan.